Changing Your Horses Diet

Writen by Bonnie Marlewski-Probert

I recently received a letter from a reader on the East Coast who is facing a challenge that every horse owner is going to face at least twice each year if your horse spends any time on pasture. In the fall and early spring, every horse owner is going to face the challenge of switching their horse from pasture to hay and back again from hay to pasture.

"…I recently bought my first horse (morgan/perch cross). He is VERY solid and has always been on pasture board (with run-in). I live in Pennsylvania and the grass is starting to get yellow. At what point should he be getting hay(my barn manager insists it's still good)? He also is just starting to get a handful of grain… He's getting very fit and has lost a little weight (which is good in that he was getting too big), but just think he should start getting hay. Thanks so much. I look forward to hearing from you.

Martha"

Hi Martha,

Good to hear from you and congrats on purchasing your first horse! As for grass vs. hay, there are two things I would recommend:

1. If you call your local ag extension office and ask them to run a test on the grass in the pastures this time of year to determine the nutritional value, this will eliminate all the guesswork. Of course, many barn owners will be offended if you do this, but you are ultimately responsible for your horse's health.

2. You can call your local vet and ask him what he thinks about the nutritional value of yellow grass.

At the end of the day, if you horse is in good flesh and his energy level is good, he is probably fine on the diet he is currently on. If he is not thriving on it, I would at least call the vet to ask the general question about when he thinks horses should start to transition off field grass onto hay for the winter (in your part of the country).

Remember to ease him onto hay, if he hasn't been on it for the summer, especially if he is on yellow grass now. If there is little or no nutrition in that field grass this time of year and you start him on alfalfa hay (which is a very rich hay), you run the risk of colic or founder, so in a perfect world, while he is still on pasture most of the time, I would add 1/3 of a flake a day of the hay (for two days), increase that to 1/2 flake for another two days and then continue to increase incrementally in two day phases until he is on whatever his full daily hay ration is going to end up being. If this transition is hard for the barn staff to do, you can always arrange to swing by the barn yourself during the transition period to ensure he is eased onto the new diet.

In horses, it is not so much what they eat that is a danger, it is the transition from old diet to new diet that generally causes the most medical distress. This is true in the spring when the horses have been on hay and suddenly the pastures are filled with rich, wet, grass everywhere. The same cautious transitional rule applies, ease him onto the new grass in small bits each day until you eventually have him onto the new diet.

Whether you live on the East Coast or on the West Coast or in Europe, the same rules apply where diet change is concerned – slow is best. The last thing you want to do is find yourself with a horse that has a stomach ache or worse. The simple formula is to divide the total amount of the new feed that you plan on feeding each day into a fourteen day transitional period (assuming you will feed the same amount for two days each time you increase the amount). In other words, if you intend to switch from no grain to 7 pounds a day (used here as an example only, you should follow the quantity recommendations on the feed bag), split the 7 pound ration over a 14 day period. This would mean that on the first and second days, you will feed 1 pound of grain. By day three and four, you will be feeding two pounds a day, etc, etc. Remember that if your horse was on another grain product and you are switching from one to the other, remember to decrease the amount you are feeding of the old product, proportionate to the amount you are feeding of the new. In other words, if you start to feed one pound of the new brand of grain, reduce by the same amount what you were previously feeding of the old brand. If the goal is to transition from one product to a new product, reduce what you feed of the old as you increase what you feed of the new, in order to keep his diet balanced and to avoid colic or founder risks.

Another tip when you are transitioning your horse's diet – keep an eye on his water intake and output and keep an eye on his stools to ensure he is not showing any signs of diarrhea or worse, is not producing any stools at all. For most horses, if you exercise the basic common sense detailed in this column, your horse will transition from grass to hay and back again, or from one grain product to another without any problems. As long as you exercise common sense and caution, it should be a very uneventful transition. If you short cut, you can expect expensive vet bills, lots of sleepless nights and the possibility of lifelong founder issues as a result of taking that short cut.

I want to hear from you! If you have any questions, comments or suggestions that you would like to share with the rest of us, drop me a line at:

Bonnie Marlewski-Probert
P.O. Box 548
Yellville, AR 72687

Or you can contact me directly on the Internet at BRMP@AOL.com or by visiting our web site, TheCompletePet.com

For more information on any of Bonnie's books,

A Parent's Guide to Buying That First Horse
Debugging Your Horse
The Animal Lover's Guide to the Internet
Horse Tales for the Soul, Volumes 1 – 5
Dog Tales for the Soul, Volume 1

Or for her videos,

Debugging Your Horse and
Trail Riding, Rules of the road
Visit, http://TheCompletePet.com.

Bonnie Marlewski-Probert is an internationally respected writer and speaker. In addition to her work in the horse industry, Bonnie has also written for some of the top magazines in the world including Good Housekeeping, Science Journals, RV and Travel publications and a variety of Animal-related publications. She taught college courses on the art of writing and getting published and wrote a teaching guide called, "If I Can Do It, So Can You!" Bonnie has published more than 1000 magazine articles, ten books, two how-to videos and two syndicated columns. She is an internationally respected speaker for her content and for her humorous presentations. For more information on Bonnie, her work and her books/videos, visit her website at TheCompletePet.com or e-mail her at brmp@aol.com. Bonnie is also the founder of Whitehall Publishing. You can learn more about that by visiting Whitehallpublishing.com.

Whos Missing From Your Wedding Party Your Dog

Writen by Blake Kritzberg

Man's best friend is enjoying a higher profile when it comes to tying the knot. Although the trend gained steam in the easy-going West, wedding planners all over the country are seeing dogs take on key roles in the ceremony. In short, well-trained tail-waggers are showing up as ring bearers, groomsmen, maids of honor, and even assuming the role that once belonged to good ol' Dad -- giving away the bride. Dogs have become so common in weddings, many professional planners know where to book a dog handler for the day without blinking an eye. (After all, he'll need water, protection from crowds -- and a few trips to the loo.)

Gone to the Dogs?
What fuels the trend to add Fido to the ceremony? Opinions differ, but one is the way that weddings are changing: once they were a purely formal affair, with formal language and dress that hardly seemed to relate to our real lives at all. But many of today's couples are trying to bring more of the things we really say into the ceremony -- sometimes by writing our own vows -- and more of how we really look, which sometimes means bypassing the traditional white dress. And for many of us, our patient pooch is a lot like a child or a two-footed companion. He might have his own furniture, his own shelf full of tasty organic treats, his own set of smart fashion accessories. And whither we go, he goes ... just like any other family member. No wonder many couples don't think twice about bringing him to the altar.

But not every dog makes the perfect bridal party member. No matter how much you might love the mischievous antics of your wayward canine at home, it's only the well-trained, responsive dog that should share your big day. If your dog comes, sits, is good with groups, and can be relied on to hold a "down-stay," he's a candidate. If not, leave him home, or invest in some obedience classes straight away.

You'll also want to clear your pup's presence with the powers-that-be well ahead of time. Yes, it's a little surprising, but with the rising popularity of dogs in weddings, it's a fair bet that your officiant will give you the green light. Many banquet halls at hotels will also say "yes" to a well-behaved pet on your big day, provided you have a handler.

Dressed for Success
Once you've got the go-ahead, the greatest fun in including your dog is dressing him up. Popular choices for pint-sized wedding apparel include adorable jeweled collars, miniature tuxes or bridal gown, and crystal-encrusted combs and barrettes. Diane Meier Delaney of "The New American Wedding" draped her pooch in an ornate floral arrangement that literally took her guests' breath away (but discuss this option thoughtfully with your florist -- avoid poisonous flowers and steer clear of scratchy wires).

Now that you've ordered his attire and your dog's all set to work hard at your wedding, why not plan to treat him? You can purchase adorable cakes and cupcakes designed for occasions that are perfectly safe for your dog: delicious-looking confections made with wheat flour or oatmeal and bananas or honey, dripping with carob and studded with candy dog bones. Or you can make your own -- just search the net for some tested, dog-safe recipes that avoid excess fat and sugar, and pass on canine no-nos like chocolate, grapes, avocados, coffee and certain nuts.

About the Author

Blake Kritzberg is editor of FavorIdeas. Stop by for continually-updated celebrity wedding news, fairy tale wedding favors, wedding attire for dogs and unique wedding favors.

Dog Breed Profile Border Collie

Writen by Stephanie Bayliss

History

Border Collies date back many, many years, although were given the name Border Collie around 1915. They were bred out of necessity; shepherds in the borders between England and Scotland could not have worked their flocks without the help of their trusted sheep dogs. Many herding dogs exist, but the image that most people summon when they think of sheep dogs is that of the Border Collie.

Appearance

Border Collies have a fairly broad face, with strong short muzzle. They have beautiful, big oval eyes, which are usually brown but can be striking blue in merle coloured dogs.

The most common Border Collie colour is Black and White, although they also come in red and white, blue merle and many variations in-between. Their coats can be long or short, but are dense in both cases.

Border Collies look like true athletes; strong and agile – they are so active that its rare to see an overweight Border Collie!!

Temperament

Border Collies are extremely intelligent and are the true work-a-holics of the dog world!!

They are extremely loyal to their trusted family group but generally develop an unbreakable bond with their master; no dog can make its master feel more important and loved than a Border Collie; once you have their trust, its hard to break!

They are great fun for older kids as they will play Frisbee or ball; they have endless energy and the kids will tire long before a Border Collie would!

Their intelligence does not make them ideal pets for most people; they need significant amounts of exercise and if they are not given a job to do to keep their mind active, they can become destructive and stressed.

Agility, Flyball and Obedience competitions are dominated by Border Collies because of their energy and intelligence. Some of these competitions run classes called ABC classes (Anything But Collies) to give some of the other breeds a chance!!

Grooming

A quick groom once or twice a week (perhaps more at shedding time), should keep a Border Collie's dense coat in lovely, shiny condition.

Exercise

Border Collies require significant amounts of physical and mental exercise; they will walk and run for hours and will still want to play ball when you get home! They excel in agility, flyball and obedience because of their boundless energy and intelligence.

They will make themselves busy around the house; performing tricks and fetching and carrying newpapers and post. But if you don't give these dogs mental workouts and things to do, they will find things for themselves, like emptying bins and generally being destructive!

Not a dog for the feint hearted!!

Health Problems

Border Collies are one of the healthiest and hardiest dogs and do not tend to suffer illness often. Some Border Collies suffer from allergies and deafness is known to affect the breed occasionally.

Stephanie has written many articles on dogs. Visit Kennel Corner for more Dog Breed Profiles and other interesting dog resources, including a Dog Obedience School Directory.

Shih Tzu A Method Of Housebreaking

Writen by Connie Limon

House training is one of the most important parts of training your shih tzu to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of shih tzu training, the best way to house train a shih tzu is to use the dog's own nature to your benefit.

The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that shih tzu are instinctively very clean animals. Shih tzu would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, shih tzu are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate. For example, shih tzu that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training your shih tzu.

Setting up the training area

The first step in house training your shih tzu is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for shih tzu puppies and other small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.

It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her shih tzu as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the shih tzu in the training area, and to let the shih tzu eat and sleep in that area. The shih tzu should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the shih tzu may eliminate in this area, but once the shih tzu has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it.

After the shih tzu has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When you are not with your shih tzu, the shih tzu should be confined to the training area.

Setting up the toilet area

The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the shih tzu. It is important for the shih tzu to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the shih tzu each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the shih tzu uses only the established toilet area.

A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot easier for both the owner and the shih tzu. Feeding the shih tzu on a regular basis will also create a regular schedule for the shih tzu's toilet habits. Once you know when your shih tzu is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide the shih tzu to the established toilet area.

Once the shih tzu has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the shih tzu without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the shih tzu is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult.

Continuing the house training process

After the shih tzu is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the shih tzu's ability to control its bladder and bowels.

When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the shih tzu eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the shih tzu, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the shih tzu has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.

Speeding up the process

If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the shih tzu each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the shih tzu for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the shih tzu and slow down the house training process.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Tips For Nervous Dogs

Writen by Terry King

In The UK we are fast approaching Fireworks Night which in our multi-cultural society heralds a sustained period of celebrations including Diwali or Deepawali coming to an end around New Years Eve.

Around the world the Firework has for hundreds of years formed a key part of celebrations.

I thought it might be useful to outline some tips for dog lovers like me about how to keep your dog calm during what can be a scary couple of months for our faithful friends like our mutt Sam (a Black Lab/ Springer Cross).

There's nothing new here and I can't claim to have invented these but they've worked for Sam I hope they work for you.

On particularly noisy nights Sam likes to have a safe hiding place, he uses a small alcove at the side of the Settee; it's in his favorite place (other than the cat litter tray!) next to us in the living room; I know someone who uses an animal carrier with the door open.

We also do the obvious stuff like close the curtains and turn up the Television to drown out the Firework noise, but we don't shut the doors as I was once told this would make him feel trapped.

We always try and make Sam tired so in the afternoon we try and take him for a long walk and a play with his Friends, Sophie, Honey and Snoopy.

Like you and I Sam feels sleepy after a big meal, so before the Fireworks begin give him a big meal preferably high in Carbohydrate, try rice or mash Potatoes.

There are also a number of products on the market including a natural remedy called Serene-UM. I understand that this product works best if given to a dog over a period of time so now's the time to start. Apparently people often make the mistake of only giving there animal Serene-UM a few days before and this reduces the effectiveness. I found a Website that will deliver Serene-UM to your home http://www.pets2home.co.uk/ and it's on special offer!!

If you're worried all this won't work speak to your Vet about Dog Appeasing Pheromone. It comes as a plug in diffuser and I'm told has really calming influence on Dogs.

Terry King

kinterry@googlemail.co.uk

Terry married and lives with his wife Louise and his dog Sam a Two year old Lab/Springer Cross( Sam not Louise)

Guinea Pigs As Pets

Writen by Graeme Jarry

In the USA over 1 million families have guinea pigs as pets. Guinea pigs are cuddly and soft and love to cuddle up in the arms of small children.They make great companions and don't have to be toilet trained.Put them in a roomy cage with some bedding, some old newspaper and a constant supply of water and food and you will have a very happy pet.Compare them to a dog,cat, horse,rat,rabbit, birds or fish and they are a very easy pet to take care of.

They don't moan and groan or bark to get your attention.They are a very quiet animal with very few needs.Guinea pigs make great pets for both adults and young children alike.Being a non nocturnal animal,unlike the gerbil or hamster,you don't find yourself being woken or kept awake at night,running on their squeeky wheel.

Compare them to a dog,cat,horse,rat,rabbit, birds or fish and they are a very easy pet to take care of.Owning a guinea pig for the very first time can be quite an experince,as not many people are familiar with the life of the cavy.As a result the new owner often has many questions about their pet.Whilst most people would agree guinea pigs are a very lovable animal and make great pets,before you purchase one you need to take into consideration many things.Firstly of course there are a large range to choose from. There are four main things that need to be considered.

1) The best type of guinea pig,whether for you or your children.
2) Taking care of your guinea pig or pigs.
3) Allegies to guinea pigs.
4) Keeping more than one guinea pig.

The best type of guinea pig often comes down to personality, colour,looks etc,but it is worth taking into account whether your small children will be holding your pet often. Females tend to be a smaller animal , more docile,less excitable than their male counterparts and easier to play with.

The Author has written an indepth book on Guinea Pigs based on his practical experience.

If you would like to know more please go to. http://www.guineapigsecretsrevealed.com

Is Your Pet In Pain

Writen by Aliza Adar Levine

Can you imagine that your pet may be in pain and you might not know it? Unbelievable as it sounds it is all too common. Learning to detect the signs of pet pain is really crucial to your pet's health care and well being. And pets don't always act like people do when they are suffering.

Animals can suffer with toothaches, joint pain, infections, just like people. Unfortunately, because they can't tell you about it you might be neglecting a serious or painful condition. One of the main things to look for is a change. That can mean change in behavior, temperament, eating or sleeping patterns. It can be very subtle.

One sharp cat owner noticed that her cat was simply meowing more than usual for a few days. Not crying, just more meowing. She took "Max" took the Vet and a horribly infected tooth was discovered and treated. No more meowing.

A typical cat reaction to pain is to hide. If you notice your cat is gone most of the time, check it out.

With dogs, less interest in eating, eating less or even slower than usual, can signal a toothache. Food falling from the dog's mouth is also typical. It may hurt to chew.

When "Doobie", usually a frisky boxer pup, was just lying in a corner quietly, something was wrong. A visit to the vet revealed a painful abscess that needed treatment.

If your pet is suddenly hyperactive or listless, pay attention. Both are possible signs of pet pain.

Older pets can suffer from chronic conditions like arthritis, hip pain, and other age related problems. Symptoms can be slow movement, limping, balance problems, subdued or nervous disposition. Pain can make a calm animal irritable or even aggressive.

There is no reason your pet has to suffer. Your vet can prescribe pain medication that can bring relief. Never give a pet human medications, though. This is very dangerous and can even kill. Cats especially, because their liver is different than a person, can be poisoned easily.

Often an animal will lick a painful area, or even rub it against a surface. A sign of this is can be a flattened or wet area on your pet's coat. Try to separate the hair to see if you can detect anything. The appearance of redness, swelling, an open wound, or even local heat all are best checked by a vet.

If you notice your dog scratching constantly, check out and treat for fleas if needed. If Poochie scratched herself raw and is bleeding, keep your eye on the wounds and get help if it's not healing up quickly.

So, if your pet seems to be acting different,it could be pain that's behind the change. When in doubt, go to your local pet clinic for security. You never know. When it comes to pain, it's always better to be safe than sorry.

You may end up saving your beloved pet's life!

Aliza Levine RNMH runs a busy Clinic, Pharmacy. Learn more about Dog health care at http://www.DogHealthCare.info

Dealing With Loose Aggressive Dogs On Walks

Writen by Sean D

This can be quite a problem for some dog owners, what do you do if a loose dog comes over to you and your dog, the situation can be quite intimidating especially if you have a small dog and the one coming toward you is much larger or aggressive.

The reason I have written this article is because I was on a dog forum recently and read a hart wrenching post from a lady who held her dying dog in her arms after it was attacked in front of her by a loose dog that snapped it's neck.

I do not always keep my dog on a lead but I have a rule I always use when I am out with her, if she is off the lead and I see another dog with it's owner if that dog is off the lead I keep Brandy off hers, I make the assumption that the other dogs owner knows their dog is all right interacting with other dogs, however if the owner has their dog on a lead I then put Brandy on hers. This is because I feel if the owner of the other dog is unsure how their dog will react to mine I should do everything I can to help their dog be combatable, this is just a rule I use when out with Brandy.

There are times when you need to deal with dogs who's owner is either not responsible or is not around in there situations I believe there are a number of options you might consider taking.

Dog with owner

If you come across an aggressive dog off its lead but with the owner then it might be worth having a quick word with the owner and suggesting he keep his dog on a lead when other dogs are around.

Aggressive dogs

If you are lightly to come across aggressive dogs on your walk then there are three things I would recommend you could carry with you to deter an attack.

Pepper spray

You can get dog safe pepper spray, this will cause the dog discomfort and stop the initial attack, it also acts as a deterrent from future attacks, if a dog recognises you as someone who has caused him pain he should avoid you in the future. I think this is an extreme measure and I would only use it if there were lightly to be in danger of harm to Brandy or myself.

Ultra sonic alarm

You can buy ultra sonic alarms that can be heard by dogs but not people, this will cause the dog to get distracted and the sound will not be pleasant to him but should cause no permanent harm.

Carry a stick

This is an option you could consider a walking stick waved at a dog as it starts to become aggressive can often deter an attack, and might stop the situation developing further.

Call the dog warden

Sean has been a dog trainer and handler for 39 years, he is now sharing his techniques in a free ebook available from

Tall indoor dog gates get your free copy now http://www.tall-indoor-dog-gates.com

Behavioural Problems In Puppies And Adult Dogs Part 1 Biting

Writen by Rickie Haughton

Why is my puppy biting me and what should I do about it?

This is a very common question posed by puppy owners. There can be many reasons for your puppy biting, but first you must ask yourself the all important question:

"Is the puppy really being aggressive or is it just playing with you, like it would with its brothers and sisters?"

When puppies play with each other and with their mum, they are very rough. Their teeth are needle sharp and they use them without any worries. The puppies have quite tough skin and so this play does no real harm.

If the puppy were to treat you in the same way it would probably draw blood. So when you play with your new puppy you have to teach it that you are the leader of its pack and it must obey you.

Use the word "No", said in a stern voice to discourage unacceptable behaviour. If the behaviour persists, it can be reinforced with a light tap on the snout. Remember this is only a baby and can not be expected to behave perfectly at all times, so try to distract the puppy from what it is doing before resorting to harsher methods.

One way of stopping your new pet from biting you is to push its bottom lip into its mouth underneath your finger when it bites. This has the effect of making it bite itself and usually cures the problem if used in conjunction with a voice command.

If you do not address this issue when the puppy is young you could find that your adorable puppy grows into a very unruly adult.

All dogs are pack animals and as such need to feel and be part of a pack. You and your family are now that pack and it is vital for your family's happiness and the puppy's that it realises from a young age that it is at the bottom of the pack. Even the youngest member of the family has to be higher in status than the dog no matter what its age.

As the dog gets older it may try to assert itself more and raise its position in the family pack. This does not mean that it will become aggressive; however, it will try to dominate the lower members of the pack. This is not acceptable and must be strongly discouraged. Provided that you maintain your position as the pack leader and show your disapproval of the dog's actions there will rarely be a problem.

Use your tone of voice to impart your wishes to your puppy. It is very important to use a commanding tone when giving the puppy an order. Saying "sit", for example, in a very soft, pleading tone will have very little effect on the puppy. If, however, you use a firm, no nonsense tone, the dog will soon learn to recognise what is required. Do not raise the volume, just alter the tone.

There are two very definite don'ts when training your puppy; Firstly, never ever hit the dog with anything including your hand (as I said earlier, a light tap on the snout is ok, but nothing harder) Secondly, remember that love and affection and a small treat is always far more effective than punishment (most dogs will do and learn anything if rewarded with little food treats).

It is strongly recommended that you enrol your puppy in a good local training class. If you do not know of one then either ask your vet or consult a reputable breeder. The Kennel Association for your country will probably have information on this subject.

Rickie Haughton is a Kennel Club of Great Britain registered dog trainer and has bred, shown and trained dogs for over 35 years. His expertise covers all aspects of breeding, rearing, showing, training and behaviour in breeds of all sizes. Together with his wife, Lesley, they own the Bassmas Basset Hound and English Mastiff Kennels in Somerset, England. Occasionally they have puppies for sale to approved homes only. They can be contacted at Bassmas@northmoor.plus This article can also be seen at http://www.poodle-lovers.com.

Tinfoil Barb

Writen by Allen Jesson

The Tinfoil barb has a silvery body with bright and shiny scales and beautiful black and red-orange fins. The Tinfoil barb is sometimes confused with another species in the aquarium trade.

The Tinfoil barb is an active species that will inhabit the lower part of the aquarium, from the bottom and up to mid-level. Most Tinfoil barbs in the aquarium trade are wild caught, since their size makes them difficult to breed in captivity. Sexing the fish is also hard. Tinfoil barbs are egg-scatters and a female Tinfoil barb can produce several thousands of eggs during one spawning.

Tinfoil barbs should only be kept by aquarium keepers with really large aquariums, since it is one of the largest barbs and can reach a length of 36 centimeters (14 inches). It is also a schooling species, so you must have enough space to house a group of Tinfoil barbs. A school of Tinfoil barbs is un aggressive and can be combined with fish from other species as long as those fishes are as large as the barbs or bigger.

The Tinfoil barb feeds chiefly on plant material, but will not turn down occasional treats in the form of worms, insects, crustaceans or small fishes. Keeping your Tinfoil barbs with small fishes is therefore not recommended, since they might be perceived as prey. It is not hard to get your Tinfoil barb to eat in captivity. If you have tender plants in the aquarium, or plants that have not yet rooted themselves in the substrate, your Tinfoil barb might eat them.

The Tinfoil barb will also appreciate filamentous algae. Many aquarium keepers choose artificial plants for their Tinfoil barb aquarium, but you can go for real plants if you choose sturdy plant species that will tolerate nibbling. Ideally begin with really inexpensive plant species to test how your particular Tinfoil barbs will treat the live plants.

The Tinfoil barb originates from tropical waters in Borneo, Sumatra, Thailand, and the Malayan peninsula, and the water temperature in the aquarium should therefore be 22-25 ° C (72-77 ° F). Since it inhabits rapidly moving rivers and streams in the wild, the Tinfoil barb will appreciate strong currents in the aquarium. The preferred pH is in the 6.5-7.0 range and the water hardness should not be higher than 10 degrees of general hardness. If you care for your Tinfoil barbs and provide them with a suitable environment and appropriate diet they can live for 8-10 years.

Allen Jesson writes for several sites including two sites that specialize in salt water and fresh water aquariums and the aquarium site and Seapets, a leading source for aquariums and fish tanks.

Locomotion Of Animals

Writen by Michael Russell

The word "locomotion" means "moving from place to place". It comes from two Latin words: "locus", meaning "place" and "motio" meaning "movement". Animals can move from place to place in water, in air, or on land. Such movement does require work and their bodies must be lifted or moved forward or both.

Even humans can notice this easily. When you walk, you feel the weight of your body. As you lift each foot, you work against the downward pull of gravity. When you swim, the water supports your weight almost entirely. The downward pull of gravity is balanced by the upward lift of the surrounding water. However, you will have to work to push through the water as it resists your moving body. On land in, air resists your movement very little. You can even hardly notice the resistance. Therefore, animals that live in water work mainly to overcome the resistance of their surroundings. Animals that live out of water work mainly to overcome the pull of gravity. Locomotion is naturally very different in air and in water.

A fast-swimming fish, such as a mackerel, has an ideal shape for moving rapidly through water. The body tapers at the front and tail. The shape meets very little resistance from surrounding water since water streams smoothly over the surface of the body. It is also the shape of large sea mammals such as whales and dolphins. This is the shape men have chosen to base the submarine design on. The streamlined shape is necessary for rapid movement in water because it gives the much needed stiffening and power.

The force of the forward push depends on the size, shape and slant of the tailfin while the animal's speed through the water is determined by its body size. A dolphin 6 feet long can easily swim at 20 mph. Its body shape is streamlined like that of a fast-swimming fish, but its body and tail speak up and down rather than side to side. The surface of a dolphin's body does meet some resistance from the water and this is why huge whales about 100 feet long swim no faster than the smaller dolphins. Except when the animal is attacking its spray or escaping an enemy, to swim at high speeds demands more effort than the body can afford.

Others sea animals move through water much more slowly. Worms and snails glide along the bottom while turtles and other animals paddle. Jellyfishes move by some sort of jet propulsion. The squid, octopus and the clam swim by somewhat the same method as well.

On land most kinds of animals move from place to place a means of legs. Legs work against the pull of gravity by lifting and supporting the weight of the body to carry it forward. For rapid locomotion over the ground, a few pairs of longer legs seem better than lots of short legs. A spider can move across the table faster than a millipede can and a mouse can move faster than a spider. The fewer and longer the legs are, however, the better the body must be balanced. In an insect, the body must be carefully balanced so all its legs support the middle part of the body. An insect moves only three legs at a time because the other three legs are used for support. And an insect has its weight equal in both the front and behind of the body. Although this is good for balance, this arrangement is not as good for fast local motion as in vertebrates.

Four legs support most land vertebrates and move it from place to place. In some animals like the salamander, the legs are at the sides so the animal wriggles like a fish. When standing, some vertebrates place their body weight on their front legs and some place it on their hind legs. Others also place it evenly on both pairs of legs. In order not to fall down when walking, a four-legged animal must always have the other 3 feet on the ground. No foot is lifted off the ground unless the center of the body weight is spread over the other 3 feet. For instance, if movement begins with the right front leg, the left rear leg steps next. Then the left front leg moves, followed by the right rear leg. This pattern is the same for a turtle, dog, or a human infant on all fours. By walking this way, a four-legged animal can stop suddenly at any moment without falling down

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Orthopedic Dog Beds

Writen by Ken Marlborough

Many people consider their dog to be part of their family, and want to ensure his happiness and comfort. As dogs get older, they experience the same problems in their canine bodies as humans do. Arthritis in older dogs, especially males, is quite common, though sometimes hard to detect since your dog can't complain about the aches and pains he's experiencing. He'll slow down when walking and running, he won't leap for that dog treat as quickly as he used to, he'll shorten those evening walks and he simply won't sleep as well on the same bed he's been using for years.

There are, however, many ways you can help him. The first step is to consult with your veterinarian, who will probably make adjustments to his diet and perhaps even prescribe some medication to be mixed into his food. Your vet may then suggest that you invest a few dollars and buy him one of many orthopedic dog beds to help him sleep better. The more comfort you can give to your dog with this problem, the more he'll enjoy his declining years.

Orthopedic dog beds are quite common these days, and even if your veterinarian does not know where you can find one in the town or city where you live, he will likely be able to direct you to a number of mail order companies or websites that specialize in them and be able to help you make the best choice.

In general, older dogs, those recuperating from surgery or accidents, or handicapped dogs will get the most comfort from some kind of foam bed, since they are firmer and easier to get into and out of. If your dog likes to "nest", (kneading the fabric of his bed before he lies down), a MiracleLoft-filled bed will be the best for him.

Baffle beds, that is, beds designed with polyfil-filled tubes of fabric sewn together, are also an excellent choice, as they tend to be firmer and to provide more support where the dog needs it most. They are designed to create a non-shifting liner, so the shape of the bed does not change over time and the dog can get into a similar position comfortably and easily each and every night. Quilted foam orthopedic dog beds are probably best for dogs with severe arthritis, as the foam is of a medical grade, created for humans with similar problems, and provides the most support for painful, arthritic joints. Take your dog with you if you're lucky enough to have an orthopedic dog bed supplier in your area and let him decide. After all, it's his bed now, isn't it?

Dog Beds Info provides detailed information about small and large dog beds, as well as designer, orthopedic, and discount dog beds. Dog Beds Info is the sister site of Bird Cages Web.

How To Take Care Of Your Little Angels

Writen by Tarja Anchor

Angelfish have been popular for a long time, and new strains are still being developed. Wild-caught fish are also widely available. Angelfish are cichlids, which mean they can be aggressive, territorial, and predatory. They also have some demanding requirements for space, water conditions, and diet.

Angelfish require space to establish and hold a territory. You can keep one Angelfish in a relatively small aquarium, but they will do a lot better in a group of five or more in bigger tank. You should provide 10 gallons of water for one adult Angelfish. If you consider keeping Angelfish, locally bred fish are a good choice. They are usually already acclimated to your tap water, and probably are available at your local fish store.

There is a growing number of "basement breeders" all over the country, who bring their fish to the store for sale. This will save you a lot of time and money if you are just starting with Angelfish.

Wild-caught fish are harder to get acclimated to different water conditions. It has to happen very slowly, and at first the conditions should be close to their natural water conditions; slightly acidic, and relatively soft. Water temperature must be maintained between 78 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit for all Angelfish regardless of their origin. They don't like to get "chilled"; they will suffer and get sick in too cool water.

There are no special requirements for filters, as long as the water stays clean. The only thing to think about is that the water is not flowing too fast. Angelfish are not happy where salmon would be. Thirty percent of the water should be changed at least every two weeks. Also vacuum the bottom to keep it clean and aerated, since Angelfish will not mix the substrate. One option is to keep some bottom dwellers with Angels.

Angelfish generally accept all kinds of food. They are omnivorous, which means they eat meat and plant food. You can offer pellets, flakes, frozen blood worms and brine shrimp, and so on. Avoid too fatty meat to protect the liver from getting cirrhosis. It is a good habit to feed Angelfish two or three times a day a with small amount instead of single large meal. This will prevent digestive problems.

Angelfish can be good community fish. They do need to have appropriate tank mates for everything to work out. Some small fish may end up on the menu, like Neon Tetras, and slower fish may have difficulty to get enough food. Avoid very small fish and choose tank mates with similar temperament, and water condition requirements. Some Angel fish strains have very long fins and tails, which some other species keep nipping.

If you are interested in breeding Angelfish, you will need a second tank to separate the breeding pair from the rest of the community, or to rear the fry. It would be best to get at least 3 to 5 Angels to be sure you get one female and one male. Sometimes you may find a pair of adults for sale, which have already spawned. Angels will form a pair after courtship display, and will aggressively guard the chosen spawning spot. This is usually some kind of vertical surface, a big leaf or tubing for example. Spawning takes about an hour. Both parents keep fanning the eggs for three days until they hatch. The fry will stay attached to the surface for about five days and then start swimming on their own. By this time the fry has used most of its yolk, and needs to be fed for the first time. You can offer newly hatched brine shrimp. It's wiggling will stimulate the fry to eat better than flake food will, which can be offered crushed.

Parents will take care of the fry, but if any wander away; they will get on the menu of the other fish. This can be prevented by moving the fry to a separate tank. If the fry is well fed and the tank is kept clean, the fry will grow very fast. Then you can start asking from your local fish stores if they would be interested in having your little Angels for sale. Happy fish keeping.

More information about aqurium fish, aquarium plants, aquarium decoration, aquarium filters, and salt water aquariums at http://aquariuminfosite.com

Crate Training Dogs The Right Way And The Wrong Way Part One

Writen by Kathleen Amaro

Part1: There is Actually a "Wrong" Way to Crate Train

Crate training dogs, (or crate training puppies) if approached correctly is by far one of the most effective tools you can use to form good dog behavior.

The most subtle mistakes in crate training are sometimes the worst because they go undetected and are repeated over and over again which can make the whole experience of potty training dogs negative and frustrating.

Using the correct method of crate training you can avoid subtle mistakes and have your puppy or dog's training move along quite smoothly.

Even though crate training dogs is by far the best way to potty train, it can backfire if not done correctly. This is why there are so many pet owners who attempt crate training and wonder why they're still having problems; because there is a right way and a wrong way to approach the whole process.

My proven methods of crate training make this stage both a positive and rewarding experience for both you and your puppy (or dog).

A Basic Understanding:
---------------------

The first step in puppy training or dog training is to learn how your puppy or dog is viewing things, what actually forms his puppy behavior and what you can do to appropriately shape it.

By understanding the canine mindset better, you can make the process a lot easier and faster, which in turn makes it a lot more fun and rewarding for both you and your puppy.

So in order to be successful in crate training dogs or puppies, a basic understanding of "natural" puppy behavior is needed. Here are a few examples:

1. Dogs cannot view things the way we do; and in fact many times situations are just the opposite of what it looks like from our perspective.

2. Dogs do not make connections between cause and effect when any amount of time has passed.

3. Dogs do not understand the spoken language unless it's paired consistently with something meaningful to them.

4. Dogs are frightened and confused by anger that humans display.

5. When a dog experiences fear and confusion as a result of a human getting angry with him this also slows down the dog's learning process since effective learning cannot take place under these conditions.

What Dogs Do Understand:
------------------------

Some of what dogs and puppies do understand is:

* Instinct and self preservation-(neither of which they have conscious control over)

* Immediate consequence to action

* Positive rewards

* Tone of voice

* Some body language

And they are effected by our emotions even when they don't understand them.

Dogs and puppies respond more quickly and more reliably to positive incentives than to fear or punishment. And in dealing with puppies, fear and punishment can and will damage their personalities for life.

In many cases, punishment tactics actually cause behavioral problems, can compound existing ones, and can even bring about the opposite behavior than what we are trying to achieve.

Crate training dogs and crate training puppies using positive behavior shaping methods allows you to effectively train your pet without having to use punitive measures at all.

Kathleen Amaro is the owner of http://www.puppy-potty-training.com. Her instantly downloadable ebook "25 Secrets to Raising the Perfect Puppy" not only tells you how to raise the perfect puppy, it presents the exact methods of how to crate train your puppy or dog using only positive and healthy learning techniques.

Punishment Is Not The Answer

Writen by Lynn Lott

Some people mistakenly think that kind and firm solutions reward their dogs for bad behavior and that the only way a dog can learn is to suffer. More often than not, the "solution" for the dog's misbehavior is really misplaced anger or a desire to hurt the dog for hurting you. That's what happened with Francie, who left her new puppy Cody, an American Eskimo dog (a very attached breed who needs attention), home alone for long hours while she went to work. Her little dog was bored and teething, so he entertained himself by chewing on Francie's shoes. Little did he know that his entertainment would make his mom so angry. When Francie walked in and saw one of her $200 shoes in Cody's mouth, she saw red. She pulled the shoe away from him and hit him with it over and over, yelling, "No, no, no! Bad dog, bad dog!" Cody slunk away with his tail between his legs and hid under a chair. Francie grabbed him and threw him outside saying, "You think about what a bad boy you've been." Right!

If Francie thought her methods would stop Cody from chewing on her shoes because she "taught him a lesson," she was soon disabused of the notion when, the next day, he chewed another pair of her best shoes. No amount of yelling and hitting seemed to get through to the little pup.

The Pup Parenting Plan was very simple for Francie.

1 . The behavior that bothers me: Chewed up shoes.

2. Why change is needed: Shoes are expensive and I can't afford to keep replacing them.

3. The mistake I am making: Every one of them. I am reactive, disrespectful, punitive, and I talk too much. When she stepped back and looked at the problem objectively, she knew that chewing a shoe is not bad behavior. It is normal dog behavior. The faulty behavior is leaving the shoe in the dog's reach in the first place. Francie could see that it does not make sense to punish a dog for normal dog behavior, nor does it make sense to assume a dog will learn from punishment. Have you noticed that most pooch parents initially respond just the way Francie did? They punish their dogs for chewing the shoe instead of simply removing their shoes from the dog's path.

4. A list of possible solutions: I don't have to brainstorm for a list of solutions. It's obvious that I must keep my shoes out of sight and provide appropriate chew toys. Instead of brainstorming, she acted:

She went to the store and found a shoe rack that hung on the back of her closet door and put all of her shoes in the rack.

She also bought a lot of soft stuffed animals at the secondhand store and set them out for Cody to chew. Each animal cost 50 cents -- a bargain compared to her shoes. Francie tried rawhide strips, but Cody never liked chewing on them. He preferred something soft, like the shoes, so the stuffed animals were a great substitute and a much better solution than releasing all one's anger at a dog.

5. Choose a solution and follow through: Having a well-thought-out plan made it easy for Francie to follow through. She kept her shoes out of Cody's sight, and she never lost another shoe.

Try to imagine what your dog is thinking while being swatted with the shoe. Do you think he is thinking, "Thank you for caring about me so much that you want to hurt me to teach me right from wrong"? It is more likely that your dog is hurt and totally confused -- but amazingly, still loves you.

Francie didn't feel good about hitting Cody and yelling at him. She shook her head at how much she and Cody had suffered because she didn't take the time to think the problem through. She liked herself a lot better when she was less angry and had a respectful plan. Kind and firm proactive pooch parenting was much more her style.

If Cody could talk, what would he say? "I loved the game that Francie used to play with me. I would chew her shoe, she would give me lots of attention, I got to go outside and play in the yard, and when I came back in, she had already left another shoe for me to chew. Oh well, now I have my own special toys to play with."

http://www.positivediscipline.com/pupparenting

Reprinted from: Pup Parenting: A Guide to Raising a Happy, Well-Trained Dog by Lynn Lott, Jane Nelsen, and Therry Jay © 2006 Rodale Inc. Permission granted by Rodale, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098. Available wherever books are sold or directly from the publisher by calling (800) 848-4735 or visit their website at www.rodalestore.com

Dog Behavior Problems Digging In The Yard

Writen by Tyler Brown

Is your dog hunting for land mines around your yard? Digging in the yard is a dog behavior problem that many of my clients have complained about. It ruins the grass, flowerbeds, and generally gives a lousy look to your yard. Train it correctly and your dog can learn to hate digging in the yard.

Digging is a natural behavior for your dog. Members of the canine family in the wild dig to hide their treasured possessions and to build their shelters. In our domesticated world, however, digging is not an acceptable behavior.

The first thing to do is to understand that your dog is digging to fulfill one of his needs. Start out by giving your dog something else to do. Make sure that he has safe toys to play with in the back yard and that he gets plenty of exercise. This probably will not cure him of his digging behavior problem but it is only fair to help him occupy his time.

Second, you must change his association to digging. Right now your dog sees digging as a fun activity. It is up to you to make it an activity that brings no pleasure.

You are going to need a partner to help out with this exercise. Have your partner take the dog out of the back yard. He can't see what you are about to do. With your dog out of the yard gather as much of his stool as you can. Fill the holes he has dug with his own stool and cover it up with dirt. Do this to every hole.

Most dogs are repulsed by their own stool. Most dogs will also return to their previously dug holes. So when he goes back to his old hole to re-dig, he will find his own stool and have a negative association to that hole. If he then re-digs another hole and again finds his own stool he will once again be repulsed. If this happens often enough he will soon believe that every time he digs he will be confronted with his own stool. This should stop his digging.

Sometimes it isn't as easy as that, though. Some dogs get clever and dig in a new place. When that happens, repeat the same process of removing him from the yard and filling in his hole. You may have to repeat this process numerous times before, by virtue of the law of statistics, he keeps having bad experiences with his own stool while digging.

Stay consistent. Keep at it. Persistence and patience is the keys with removing this unwanted dog behavior problem.

Author Tyler Brown is a renowned dog trainer whose training adventures and clients have taken him to 18 states and 5 countries to teach others how to properly train their dogs. Go to dogbehavioronline.com for more dog training articles, advice, tips, and answers from a professional dog trainer.

Birds Are People Too

Writen by Lance Winslow

Many bird lovers find themselves closer to birds than many people, indeed birds are our friends and they seem to be intrigued by humans for the most part. Many people have birds as pets and find them to be quite content to be our companions.

One author; Dale Sheldrake has written several books, which discuss how birds and people can communicate at times via brain waves or something other than verbal communication. His verified studies and research even show the ability of birds to communicate over many miles of separation. Yet how can this be? People cannot do that?

Well actually it appears people can. For instance have you ever heard your phone ring and just knew who it was or had been thinking about someone and suddenly they call? How do they do that anyway? Well, it turns out this is perfectly normal and although it does not happen so often in long-lost tribes they describe this ability as common and they use it to communicate. Very interesting.

And did you know that sometimes wild birds over 60 miles away and totally out of range will fly to a dead animal carcass which has been left right after the very first birds of their same species find it and land and start eating? How do they know? How do people communicate like this? My only question is how much abilities do we share with our feathered friends? Consider this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

What On Earth Is A Duck Toller

Writen by Michael Russell

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a unique breed originating in Nova Scotia. It's major characteristic is the reason it is called a "Duck Toller". It is a breed that has a strong sense of play and will prance about endlessly throwing sticks or toys in the air and playing by itself. For some reason ducks are attracted to dogs which play in this manner, particularly to dogs which are the red color of the eastern fox and the "Duck Toller" fits this description.

In years past the ducks were lured into a long tunnel of netting and captured in this manner, with the dog being the lure. Nowadays the dog is used in the same manner except that the birds are lured into close enough proximity for the hunter to shoot them. The duck toller is noted for its happy character, the tail always being in motion and its propensity to play with toys. When working as a toller, the dog has speedy action, the tail always is in motion and he will prance and pounce completely without direction by a human. When the birds are downed, his retriever instincts are brought into play and the hunter will direct the dog to bring back the birds, which he does with great swimming strength and skill on land or in the water.

In 1945 the standard was first drawn up, but for many years the Nova Scotia Duck Toller was relatively unknown. Only recently was it admitted into the American Kennel club registry in the Sporting Dogs Group. He has continued to attract a loyal and enthusiastic crowd of fanciers, who prize his friendly and good natured character. He is a medium sized dog that is noted for his active and alert manner, playful spirit and easy trainability. He makes a good watch dog but is not a guard dog. His coat is red, or various shades of orange, with light feathering and of medium to short length. In appearance he looks very much like a small, lighter boned version of the Golden Retriever. In fact, the Duck Toller is believed to have been bred through crosses with Labrador Retrievers, Goldens and various Spaniels. He is by nature a strong retriever on land or on water and should exhibit powerful swimming ability and a natural love of the water.

The Nova Scotia Duck Toller does not make a good kennel dog, he worked as a "partner" to mankind for generations in his history and is a much better companion and pet when allowed to be with his people. Furthermore this is a breed that is easily bored and needs activity and plenty of exercise to thrive. He makes a great house pet as he is not overly large and he is exceptionally gentle with children and accepting of strangers. He fits well into a household with other breeds also, being good nattered and playful in his approach. Since his only drawback is his playfulness, he probably should be in a household with plenty of children and activity, although his gentleness, fondness for playing "solo" and easy trainability would not rule him out as a pet for the elderly.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Horse Training 101

Writen by Ray La Foy

Each horse is different in how it learns and how it reacts to outside stimuli. Certain methods of horse training may apply to some horses, but it does not mean that it will be effective to all breeds of horse.

To start horse training you must develop a communication system with the horse. This might take time. In the same way as children may not fully grasp the idea of things at an instant, baby horses in training may not get every pressure, pat or way of holding the reins at once.

When you apply a certain pressure, you expect a certain response. During horse training, you must make the horse understand that a certain pressure should elicit a corresponding response. We don't expect full compliance in the beginning, but as time goes by, these actions will be part of the horse's vocabulary.

Throughout the course of the horse training, one by one these actions will be added to his vocabulary. But these actions should still be broken down into minute details that the horse can take in one at a time. Learn how to pace with each individual horse. Training is something that should be done slowly and surely.

You must also learn how to "speak" to your horse in a way that it will be able to comprehend. This manner of speaking would mean fewer words and more body language.

Horses are herd animals. They learn well by imitating the leaders of the herd. You should be that "leader" your horse will follow. Patience is a key in training your horses.

You must also take into consideration that no one, animal or human, learns well when under stress. You should not force lessons into your horse during horse training. They don't appreciate the yelling and whipping, especially if they do not know what all the harshness is for. Unlike humans who can speak their minds, horses resort to more physical responses. And you certainly wouldn't want your horse to whirl, kick, strike and do out of hand movements.

You must create an environment wherein the horse can learn on its own, aside from the horse training that you give it. It is also important to see the difference between having been able to teach the horse something and it just accepting it. If a horse is relaxed when you do something, this does not necessarily mean that it is trained. This might just mean to it as another thing a human being normally does. Resistance at first is needed in order to see that the horse recognizes that something new is being taught to him.

The horse's daily training routine should not be based on a set of particular things you want to teach to the horse. It should be based on how your horse reacts to your actions. Don't teach something new to it without reviewing what it already knows.

Most importantly - don't force your horse to go on horse training if it doesn't feel well. A good routine does not only maintain the horse's attention level, but also its comfort level.

Horses and Ponies Learn more at http://www.horseandponys.com

Tips For Choosing A Fish Tank

Writen by Lee Dobbins

Picking the right tropical fish tank will make the care of your tank easier and much more fun for both you and the fish, so you will want to choose an aquarium that not only looks sharp, but is also functional and appropriate for your needs. Ultimately the decision is yours to make - below are a few thoughts that should help to insure you pick an aquarium that is perfect for you!

Shape

The most prevalent shapes for fish tanks are hexagon and rectangular, but you can also buy rounded bubble tanks, coffee table tanks and even thin fish tanks that fit right in your wall! When deciding on the size of your tank, you need to consider the location where you will setup the tropical fish tank to be certain the tank will fit and won't stick out into any traffic areas.

Rectangular fish tanks are best for your water quality and fish health. Because rectangular tanks are long, the surface area (the area that meets the air) is bigger in ratio than aquarium tanks of other shapes and sizes and allows for best exchange of gases and, hence a healthier aquarium tank. A hexagon shaped fish tank, looks neat, but there is not as much surface area. You can still have a successful hexagon shaped tank, but you will most likely need to spend more time maintaining the water and won't be able to house as many tropical fish as you can when using a rectangular tank which holds as much water.

Location

If just are going to have 1 fish as a conversation piece on a small shelf or bathroom vanity a cool decorative tropical aquarium could be just the thing. When picking a location for the fish tank be sure that you take the weight of the tank into consideration (a filled aquarium can weigh 12 pounds per gallon so a filled 20 gallon Aquarium Setup can weigh over 200 pounds) and locate it a spot that can support the weight including the right stand. When buying your aquarium tank, it is necessary to think about its placement in your house. If you are looking to add appeal to an empty corner, a hexagon shaped aquarium tank might be wonderful, but a long rectangular aquarium setup could make an interesting statement along a wall.

Size

If you are just a beginner you should consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium setup. A small 5 gallon aquarium tank is fine if you do not have a lot of space but you will have to be sure you don't overload the aquarium with fish or the quality of your water will suffer which can make your fish unhealthy. Don't be tempted by those little fish tanks or bowls that have 1 or 2 fish with no filtration, Believe me, the fish will not live for a long time in that tank and you will spend a lot of time monitoring the water quality and performing water changes. The rule of thumb for size when buying an aquarium is that the bigger the aquarium tank, the less maintenance you'll need to carry out and the more fish you can house.

Typically you can house 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water in the tank - along with adequate aeration and filtration, that is. If you buy a 20 gallon aquarium setup, you can have 20 inches of tropical fish, or about 15 fish with the tinier 5 gallon aquariums you will only be able to keep 2 or 3 fish.

Picking the right tank is a question of personal preference, you need to weigh the options and pick what fits your needs. Doing your homework before you go to the store will help to save you both time and money in the long run.

Lee Dobbins writes for Page Giant where you can find more interesting articles on a variety of subjects.

Bedding For Horses

Writen by Ronnie Kellner

Proper bedding for horses is extremely important. Their health and performance depends on them having the proper amount of rest. Studies have shown that sleep can be divided into 2 stages, Slow Wave Seep (SWS) and Paradoxial Sleep (PS) .
Horses normally fall asleep while standing up and they enter SWS during which the muscles gradually relax.

If the horse is feeling comfortable in its environment it will lie down and drift further into SWS with further relaxation of the muscles.

The horse may then lie down flat to enter PS where the muscles are totally relaxed, that is, there is virtually no muscle tone.

An important point about sleep cycles is that the horse must lie down flat to complete a sleeping cycle that includes PS. If a horse cannot, or chooses not to lie down then it can rest in SWS but cannot achieve the total relaxation of PS.

Paradoxial sleep is sometimes termed the sleep of the body because of the general muscular relaxation.
SWS is known as the sleep of the mind.

And so with that in mind I started researching the different types of bedding for horses. Here are the various types of horse bedding I have found.

Straw bedding especially wheat straw was used in virtually every stable some fifty years ago. Horses were mainly kept for hunting, competitions or belonged to riding schools. Some horses had "hay coughs",now called Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and since the majority of horses were looked after by professional grooms, COPD meant nothing to the average horse owner.

Today's the situation is so different. The growing trend to keep equines as pets and not only as work animals has spurred a growing trend to find new types of bedding.

Straw as Horse Bedding

Benefits

• If clean and dust free, it makes an excellent bed.

Disadvantages

• amount of waste material generated
• costly to dispose
• Heavy to cart to the muck heap
• Dangers of spores and dust
• May create respiratory problems for horse and humans
• horses often eat straw bedding.

Findings from other studies have shown that when given the choice of straw or wood shavings as a bedding type, horses spend more time on straw.

Horses appear to spend more time performing bedding-directed behaviours on straw and this seems to reduce boredom in stabled horses

The use of beddings other than straw may increase the risk of abnormal behaviours such as weaving.

Both straw and wood shavings are economical and easy to obtain.

Straw is generally warmer bedding than shavings because it traps air.

Sawdust as Horse Bedding

Benefits
• Readily available almost everywhere
• Relatively inexpensive

Disadvantages

• May irritate a horses lungs
• Can cause the "heaves" (a respiratory problem)
• Heavier to load and muck than straw, shavings or wood chips.
• Horses with respiratory problems should not use this type of bedding.

Peat moss has countless tiny air-filled cells that provide a comfortable cushion under the horses foot, making it a bedding recommended by veterinarians for convalescing horse's with severe foot problems.
It naturally neutralizes, not covers up, but organically neutralizes, ammonia fumes. Veterinarians have long recommended peat as a beneficial alternative stall bedding for horses suffering from COPD, commonly known as "heaves".

Peat moss has long been recognized as one of the most effective natural filtration materials found in nature. The natural beneficial microbes, and the material's outstanding absorbency trap and contain harmful urine and ammonia fumes.
Benefits

• Counters the build up of stall ammonia.
• No further need of special stall deodorizers.
• Generates less waste volume than shavings or straw, or pellets
• Requires less storage space.
• Small amount of daily waste generated
• Rapid break down time compared to wood products or straw
• Keeps a white horse from getting urine stains

Disadvantages

• The brown earthy colour makes the stalls look dark • More expensive initially than sawdust or shavings

Hemp as Horse Bedding

Hemp has been cultivated in North America since the 17th century. For a number of years it was against the law to grow hemp, it is once again legal to grow hemp commercially in Canada .

The outside of the hemp stalks are harvested for use in the textile, composite and paper industries. The core of the stalk is used for animal bedding, garden mulch and building materials.

Queen Elizabeth of England,uses the European company "Hempcore", producers of hemp bedding, as her equine product supplier.

HempChips, an Ontario based company, researched the wide spread use of hemp bedding in Europe and did stall trials and test marketing of the product in Ontario prior to launching HempChips at the Royal Winter Fair in 1998.

Benefits

• HempChips are dust extracted and cleaned of any impurities
• Ensure a clean stable environment
• Reduction in conditions that lead to respiratory problems in horses
• All natural – there few chemicals used to grow the hemp stalk and no chemicals used during processing.
• Highly absorbent – therefore you can use less
• Horses will not eat hemp stalks

Disadvantages
• High initial Cost of putting down the bedding
• Difficulty in locating local sellers.

Newsprint bedding is shredded newspaper/cardboard. It is ecologically conservative and very absorbent.

Benefits

• Soft and comfortable
• No Dust
• Horses usually will not eat it
• Horses are easier to clean after lying in newsprint as opposed to shavings
• Easy to store and transport in the small bales
• Good for places that are allowed to burn muck

Disadvantages
• Light weight can make the muck heap prone to blow around the yard in windy weather.
• Makes the stable look unkempt with the newsprint blowing all over the place

Branded Wood Pellet Products.
Wood pellets are compressed shavings (usually pine). They are treated to remove toxic substances and dust, and they expand when wet.

Benefits

• Some pellets clump so it's easy to clean.
• Very Absorbant therefore you need to put down less
• Branded wood pellets are free of dust and toxic substances
• Greatly lowering the chance of respiratory problems
• Easy to sift through with pitch fork
• Mucking out is faster easier and less wasteful
• Reduction in the amount of waste thrown out
• Requires about 1/3rd the space of a traditional flake shaving bale.
• Comfortable, shock absorbing, and aesthetically pleasing.
• Stalls are drier and cleaner
• More Cost Effective in the long run
• Easier to use

Disadvantages

• Upfront cost is higher
• More difficult to find than sawdust or wood shavings

The Benefits of Rubber Matting are numerous. Just like us, horses and ponies feel the strain from standing on hard surfaces. If they slip, injury is also likely to be greater on concrete than on a softer surface.

Benefits

• Rubber matting provides a very comfortable standing surface
• Extra traction helps to reduce the risk of injury in the stable.
• Provides a much warmer, safer and more comfortable floor
• Reduces the quantity of bedding required.
• Different brands and differences in cost and quality.
• Good buffer between the horse and the floor.
• Extra cushioning alleviates pressure and stress of hock and knees.
• Less bedding need

Disadvantages of Rubber matting

• The cost of some stall matting is quite high

A good friend of mine uses the ComfortStall® System for her 2 box stalls. It is true that she goes a little overboard (to say the least) when it comes to caring for her horses. They not only have the Comfortstall® system for the floor of their box stalls but peat moss as bedding. To me this is the best type of sleep arrangement for any horse. By the way, the matting for the 2 stalls cost a total of 1500 $ cdn including installation.

Like any other bedding, the amount of material you will need depends on the type of horse being housed, how many hours the horse spends in the stall, weather conditions, and the size of the stall.

Also be aware that stabling is not natural for equines, so measures must be taken to ensure a healthy, comfortable and happy environment is created.

Having lived all of my life in a big city, moving to a horse ranch in the country was a dream come true. Far from the hustle and bustle to the peaceful life with horses. I love the new life I have here in St. Lazare, Quebec. Besides taking care of 9 horses, 2 crazy dogs, a pig...and lets not forget the cats. My husband and I also have a graphic design studio. But I wanted something new, something different - something that would weave together: design - horses - and anecdotes about my new life. Oh yeah...I also wanted to find a new income source. Something that I could do from home. No commuting to the city So I started this website www.livingwithhorses.com I am continuously updating with information for the novice horse rider and the new horse ranch owner. Lots of horsekeeping tips, and information on managing your horse boarding stable. Visit us at www.livingwithhorses.com

Keeping Your Cat Litter At Bay

Writen by Sharon Sheraton

You are doing your morning chores around the house and you get to the cat's litter box, you can smell it before getting to it and you just cleaned it the day before. What's worse, as you stand over the box you note that there is spray of litter in what looks to be like a nine inch ratios on the floor. Sighing heavily you get to work…once more.

Ever wonder how to keep the litter from making such a mess all over your floor? When your furry little friend or friends use the litter box we are proud of how smart they are but then you have to clean the mounds of litter off the floor. It can be frustrating.

Litter boxes can be found in a tremendous selection of sizes, designs and colors but just because they can now be added to your household as a fashionable piece doesn't make that mess any more fun to clean up. With all the choices there are it is a chore to determine which is going to be best for our pets as well as suit our household needs. There are many new systems designed to help minimize this chore.

One method is litter boxes that can be purchased with covers that help keep the litter contained inside. They are easy to use; you simply snap the lid off for cleaning. These types of litter boxes have been around for a while and have gone from really simple, just a top that sits on the litter box, to refined, a top that is vented that snaps onto the litter box and even has a place for an air freshener! The only problem with these litter boxes is that there are some cats that will not use them. Once inside the litter box that has a top, the cats are more confined and this may deter them from wanting to use them.

Another type of litter box that seems to have proven popular is one that comes with disposable bags. The bags fit onto the box. They are designed to cover the outside lip of the box as well and ties down so that your cats and/or kittens can't accidentally pull the bags off. When it is time to change the litter box the bag is simply lifted out and tied off. There are two problems with this type of method however, one the cats tend to scratch up the bag while attempting to cover what they have deposited and two, it can be difficult to scoop the box without tearing the bag.

Perhaps the most revolutionary development is the new self cleaning litter boxes. These new systems automatically sift litter after each use by your pet. The boxes are outfitted with an infra-red monitor that checks the pans interior constantly. Once your cat uses the litter box, the system detects that the box needs cleaning and then, using a raking system, an automated arm scoops the waste into a clean bag. When you are ready to clean the box, it is simply a matter of pulling off the bag and replacing it. These systems come with a large removable lid for ease and a carpet or mat to help control litter scatter. The logic is that your cat will get use to the system cleaning itself and hopefully not do so much trying to bury their deposits themselves. Whether that works or not remains to be seen. The other potential problem with this system is that, although you may think it is really cool, your cat might have a very different opinion. The fact that it is automated may scare your pet thus making them leery of using it. Finally there are a lot of new age designs out there to try out on your cat. It could get expensive but if there is no price tag finding your feline the right litter box then there are a lot of alternatives. Another rather interesting one is the Booda cat box. The Booda is a cat box designed with steps into a spiral dome that makes your cat walk up a small set of stairs and then use the litter box inside a dome shaped area. The problem with these boxes is that they are bulky and again there is the issue of your cat wanting to use a litter box that in enclosed.

Which ever cat litter box you decided to use to ensure the control of that litter mess it is very important to keep your cats litter box clean. The most common cause of a housetrained cat to stop using the litter box is that the litter box isn't clean enough for your cat. Cats are picky when it comes to the cleanliness of their litter boxes. A cat will stop using the litter box it he/she thinks it is too dirty. It is best to clean your cat's litter every day.

In addition to scooping the litter, you obviously need to change it from time to time to ensure good cat health. Daily cleaning is best, this ensures that odors and wetness won't have too much time to build up to unacceptable levels and it also reduces the likelihood of sickness due to high levels of bacteria.

Author Sharon Sheraton is founder of SheratonLuxuries.com, online seller of luxury carriers, attractive harnesses, natural cat litter, pet pillows and more. So much is available! Visit http://www.SheratonLuxuries.com

Breeding Clownfish A Short Description

Writen by William Berg

Thanks to Disney's Motion Picture Finding Nemo, almost everybody knows about clownfish since they introduced Nemo to the world.

Clownfish, or Anemonefishes, from the family of Pomacentridae, are one of the easiest tropical marine aquarium fish to breed. Clownfish regularly lay eggs in aquariums. They have pretty large eggs and larvae, and since the larvae easily eats cultured live foods, raising them is somewhat simpler then it tis with many other marine species..

You need to get a pair if you want to breed clownfish and you need to sex the fish. And that's a quite an interesting part – believe it or not, clownfish are all born as males! When they are adults, the largest and the most dominant fish of the group will undergo a sex change, and become a female. The second largest usually becomes the breeding male, while all the other fish remains juveniles and gender-neutral. If the breeding female disappears, the breeding male will change to a female, and so on. Buying an established pair maybe a reasonable way to go, but it is often better to have a group of juveniles growing up together. If you choose to buy a pair you should look for a pair that goes around together. Sometimes you can be lucky enough to get a pair already spawning. Anyhow, establishing an adult pair can be a little tricky; and you need to keep your eyes on them to ensure that the female doesn't kill the male.

The next thing is about setting up the tank. The tank should be large enough, approximately 200 liters for the breeding pair. It is better to let the pair be alone in an aquarium when trying to spawn clownfish.

The rest of the aquarium should be decorated with a nice anemone, a few live rocks, and other rocky substance with a vertical surface, a layer of coral sand on the bottom, bright lighting, good filtration, and protein skimmer. The aquarium and your clownfish should be stressed free which means no aggressive tank mates and good water quality. As for the feeding, clownfish need a mixed diet of fresh raw seafood and vegetable. A good diet includes prawns, mussels, and squid. It is best to feed small bits at regular periods.

Spanning can begin 1 to 12 months after the fish have settled into their new home. When the fish are ready to spawn, they become very aggressive. The male clownfish will dance up and down in front of the female (also known as "clownfish waggle"). They will also start to clean their selected rock by robustly biting it. The spawning itself usually occurs in the afternoon or early evening. Once the spawning is complete (within several hours) the male takes on responsibility for attending them, whereas the female acts as protector of the eggs and supervisor of her male.

The spawning is likely to be occurred again at intervals of 12 to 18 days. The eggs should be left in their care and not removed, except if the parents are known to be egg-eaters. At first, the eggs are a bright orange color, which after a several days diminishes and the eyes appear. Hatching usually takes from 6 to 15 days, depending on the temperature. The most critical stage of the fry is the stage they undergoes in the first 10 days of their larvae span. If you can get your fry to survive this period the rest of their raising should be more easy.

About The Author
William Berg has over 20 years of aquarium experince and runs the website http://www.aquaticcommunity.com and is also written the texts on http://www.clownloach.info.

Tumors In Tropical Fish

Writen by Nate Jamieson

Tropical fish are like other species in many respects, and that includes the fact that they have diseases or disorders that may resemble those of other animals, but are specific to the fish themselves. One good example is tumors.

Just as humans, cats or dogs may get cancer or other types of tumors, so can tropical fish. The main difference is that treatment in fish is nearly impossible, depending on the type and location of the mass. Not only are they difficult to handle where a human can have clear visual access to them, but such things as surgery are basically out of the question.

Tumors generally show themselves as a lump under or on the skin of fish. These are a distinct bump or lump, as opposed to the white fluff of skin diseases. For the most part, tumors are benign, although it's possible for one to grow so large that the fish's quality of life declines and you may have to euthanize them.

One type of tumor that does have some success with treatment, is the kind that forms under the skin of the gill, causing it to remain open. The cause of this is usually a thyroid malfunction. Remove the fish to a hospital tank, and add 1 milligram of potassium iodine for every gallon of water. Improvement can be slow, and the full course of treatment can take up to four weeks.

Internal tumors can be quite advanced before the fish shows any signs, such as a swelling of the abdomen. These cases are invariably fatal, with the rapid growth causing the fish to lose its ability to swim or eat, at which time you should consider euthanasia.

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com

Crate Training Your American Pit Bull Terrier Will It Help Your Dog

Writen by Tim Amherst

Crate training is one of the most often misunderstood dog training techniques. Many questions often come up when discussing the topic of crate training such as: "How can I use crate training to teach my dog to behave?", "What are the pros and cons of crate training?", and "Is crate training safe to use as part of my overall dog training program?"

This article will definitely help you understand crate training and what it will do to you Pit Bull terrier. After you're done reading, I'm confident that you'll have a much better understanding of crate training.

I get many questions from new dog owners on the subject of crate training. Most people really have no idea what crate training is or what purpose it serves. Quite simply, a "dog crate" is an enclosed cage area that prevents your dog from getting into trouble.

You can crate train your Pit Bull both inside the house or outside. You'll want your dog to have plenty of room to stand up and lay down.

So what are the benefits of you crate training your Pit Bull? There are many few reasons why crate training your Pit is a good idea. One reason is that a crate will prevent your Pit from destroying the inside of your house when you are away. Eventually, you'll be able to leave your dog loose when leaving the house and he won't be destructive while you're gone.

Another example of when crate training can be helpful is when you're traveling in your vehicle for a long period of time. Allowing your dog to rest in his crate during the trip will ease his fear if he has any issues with traveling.

Lastly, crate training is a vital component to properly house training a new puppy. Using a crate to assist in potty training is a very good idea and will help cut your pup's learning curve down drastically.

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.