Saturday, May 31, 2008

Saving Pets In Disasters Requires Planning Ahead

Writen by Phillip Nunemacher

Most people do not plan for unexpected events. Disasters--natural or man-made--are totally unexpected events. With any disaster, planning is the key to survival and recovery.

While you are planning for your family's survival, remember that your pets depend upon you. A disaster is as stressful to your pets as it is to you. The love shared with your pets can help reduce the stress of a disaster, for you, your family, and your pets.

You should prepare a disaster kit for your pets just as you prepare one for yourself. Your dog or cat should have a collar with a current license. Consider having an identification chip implanted in your pet. The following list of items is the minimum that you should have for each animal.

  • Copies of current veterinary records
  • Extra dishes for food and water
  • A minimum 3-day supply of food and water
  • An extra supply of medications
  • Current photographs and records and other identification
  • A portable carrier
  • Leashes and a rope to construct a temporary dog run
  • Favorite toys
  • Bedding material
  • Shelter from inclement weather
  • If you would like further information for surviving a disaster, get Survive Disaster! A CD with over 600 megabytes of text, pictures, checklists, multi-media and website links.

    Copyright 2006 Phillip Nunemacher

    Phillip Nunemacher is co-author of Survive Disaster! and trained in disaster preparedness by the US Air Force. To learn more about him you will find his blog at http://muttersandmusing.blogspot.com/

    You can purchase Survive Disaster! at Quail Publishing.

Friday, May 30, 2008

The Southern Black Mouth Cur

Writen by Michael Russell

The southern tier of the Eastern United States is a popular hunting area for big game such as wild boar and black bears. Throughout these states there are a number of regional areas where particular breeds are or have been developed and have built a reputation for their formidable hunting skills. Among these breeds is the legendary Black Mouth Cur. This particular breed of dog has become solid enough in its bloodline and true enough in type to have "made a name" which has spread beyond its original territory and can be recognized as a breed by its markings and structure. It is recognized by the United Kennel Club. This Black Mouth Cur is noted for its proficiency at hunting but also is quite useful as a cattle dog and actually is registered as a member of the Herding Group. When hunting, the dog is apt to catch and kill the medium sized and small game on his own and will hold the large game at bay successfully. When after coon, he will trail them and tree them silently, alerting the hunter of his success with only one or two deep and resounding barks.

The color of the Black Mouth Cur is usually yellow. Often he is called the Yellow Black Mouth Cur. As a matter of fact, the Disney Movie "Old Yeller" used a black Mouth Cur as the dog in the movie. A black muzzle is the reason for his name and is the preferred marking. He also will have low hanging black ears. The coat can be of two types, double or single but must be yellow. The tail if not docked is quite long. When the Black Mouth Cur hits a scent and moves out he can spring from a walk to a full out ground covering stride easily and has the stamina to continue this for many miles. Many of his admirers feel that he is among the swiftest of the trailing scent hounds of the Southern States.

This is a breed with strong protective instincts. He is affectionate and quite loyal to the children in his human family and often lets it be known that he is displeased if they are disciplined. He is more inclined to be familiar and loveable to the women in the household, being aloof with the men and wary of strange men. For all of his strength and persistence on the hunt, he is still a gentle and loyal dog and has what is known among dog folks as a "soft temper". Words spoken harshly to this dog are not nearly as effective as gentle tones, for he will do anything to please his master. He has a stable temperament and although he is exceedingly loyal and protective he will not attack any human without severe provocation. However animals are another thing entirely and he is not be trusted with other non-dog pets in the household, as he may seriously consider them for his dinner.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Feeding Your Pet Stingray The Essentials Of Maintaining A Varied Diet

Writen by Brendon Turner

Stingrays will eat a wide variety of foods. Maintaining a varied diet is extremely important in captive animals, as monocultural diets incur a risk of nutritional deficiencies. Stingrays are very active, and should be fed at least once a day, preferably twice or even three times daily. The daily diet can be varied in order to create some environmental enrichment as well as balanced nutrition for the rays.

First Foods
First foods for newly acquired rays should be blackworms or tubifex worms. These foods seem to be the most readily accepted, and are small enough to be inadvertently ingested either by mouth or through the spiracle, thereby giving the ray an opportunity to taste these possibly unfamiliar foods by chance. Foods that have been used for very small specimens, such as the teacup rays, are small insect larvae such as mosquito larvae, small shrimp known as ghost shrimp or glass shrimp, live adult brine shrimp, and blackworms. Chitinous foods such as shrimp provide less nutritional value than do soft-bodied foods, and so should not be used as sole food items.

The best way to be certain that your new stingray is feeding is to watch the spiracles as the ray passes over food on the bottom of the tank. If it is eating, you will see the spiracles opening and closing rapidly, or fluttering, as the food is ingested and water is passed from the mouth and out the spiracles. Once you observe a newly acquired ray readily feeding on black-worms or redworms introduce finely chopped night crawlers in small quantities. Once stingrays recognize these as food, most will readily eat them. Later, experiment with other types of food.

Types of Food

Live Foods
Feed live foods, including blackworms or tubifex worms, in quantities adequate to allow a small amount to be left in the tank so the rays can browse later. However, when cleaning the substrate, note whether a significant amount of living worms is present; blackworms and tubifex worms will colonize the substrate if not eaten and add to the nitrogenous waste production in the aquarium.

Nonlive, Nonaquatic Foods
Chopped earthworms, redworms, or night crawlers and any nonlive, nonaquatic foods should be fed in smaller quantities to prevent any overlooked food from decomposing in the tank. Keep in mind that stingrays have relatively small mouths-a 10-inch (25-cm) ray may have a mouth that is 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19 mm) wide, so chopped food items must be small enough to be eaten easily. If a ray ingests a piece of food and repeatedly spits it out and ingests it again, this usually indicates that the particle is too large. Some ray species, such as antenna rays, have extremely small mouths relative to their size.

Once acclimated, rays often develop techniques for eating larger pieces of food; for example, newly imported rays may have difficulty consuming even small chopped pieces of night crawlers. Eventually, however, they learn to eat an entire worm by sucking it into their oral cavity without chewing. Newly acquired rays also often ignore feeder goldfish but they quickly learn to chase down and consume feeders, even learning where they hide in the tank.

Commercially Prepared Foods
Stingrays may learn to eat other unfamiliar foods such as brine shrimp, pellet foods, or other commercially prepared foods. While there is probably no harm in offering these foods to rays, it is best to use fresh, live, or frozen foods as the dietary staple. Although stingrays often do not initially accept frozen or other nonliving foods, they may soon learn to eat these foods after they have been acclimated. A benefit of frozen foods is that they are less likely than live foods to introduce diseases or parasites.

Hand-feeding

Occasionally, a well-acclimated specimen will fail to gain weight, even though you are offering enough food. Several things may cause this problem; the most likely possibility is that it is not competing efficiently for food against other fish in the aquarium, or it may have a parasitic infestation. Stingrays occasionally do not seem to learn where foods can be found during feeding times, and are always in the wrong part of the tank during those times. In these cases, it is helpful to hand-feed such specimens. By this I do not mean feeding with your hands. Although some aquarists do this with stingrays, I do not recommend it because of the possibility of being accidentally stung. Remember that stingrays are wild animals, and no matter how accustomed your specimens become to your presence, it is impossible to always accurately predict their response to humans. Instead, you should always perform the hand-feeding of specimens with long forceps or a similar instrument. Stingrays generally avoid metal objects and appear to be frightened by metal; however, because they can sense metal, they will quickly learn that when there is a metal object in the aquarium, food is being offered. In this way, you can teach your stingray to feed directly from forceps, and selectively feed it more food.

Simply hold a night crawler (or a piece of night crawler) in the forceps, and hold the worm in the aquarium so that the ray can touch it with its fin. It should eat the worm immediately. After a few feedings in this manner, allow the forceps to touch the ray while it is eating the worm. It will quickly learn to associate the forceps with feeding and soon you will find that the ray will pounce on the forceps as soon as it touches it, eagerly looking for a treat!

How Much and How Often

The key to having well-fed stingrays in your aquarium is providing plenty of food. Unlike most fish that swim quietly between feedings, stingrays search constantly for food, looking under and around tank ornaments, moving driftwood, rocks, filters, and even other fish! This high activity level translates to a high metabolic rate, which means that while searching for food rays continue to burn energy. If they use up energy looking for food, but do not find any, they will lose weight. To compensate for this loss of energy, it is essential to provide adequate food. I cannot stress this enough. Hobbyists sometimes tell me that they feed their rays three times weekly, thinking that this is adequate. Stingrays should be fed at least twice, and usually three times, daily. In spite of these frequent feedings, rays will still constantly look for food between feedings!

When feeding significant quantities of live feeder goldfish, it is wise to add vitamin B1 to the feeder supply. Goldfish contain the enzyme thiaminase, which destroys thiamin, or vitamin B1, and this vitamin must be replenished. It should be your practice to add one 50-mg tablet to each 500 gallons (1893 L) of water every two weeks. You can add the tablets directly to the sump of the wet-dry filter; or as an alternative, the tablets can be added directly to the tank.

Brendon Turner maintains The Animal Gazette - a weekly edition of helpful articles for pet owners. Visit AnimalGazette.com for information about cats, dog breeds and tropical fish.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Maintaining The Right Temperature For A Salt Fish Tank

Writen by Cris Stanford

Keeping the right temperature for a salt fish tank or any tank takes some practice. All fish tanks require a water heater to keep the right temperature for the fish. Water heaters have a thermostat attached so you can keep an eye on the temperature changes. There are even different styles depending on what you prefer. Some heaters are designed to hang from the back of the tank, so they're out of the way.

Placement is Important

The temperature for a salt fish tank can change with the atmosphere of the room where it's located. Placement of your tank in the room can play a major role in maintaining proper temperature for a salt fish tank. It's important not to put your tank under heating or cooling vents and keep it out of the sunlight.

The larger the tank, the bigger the heat pump will have to be in order to heat the water adequately. Just as other electric appliances, the strength is measured in watts. Your heat pump should produce fifty watts of heat for every ten gallons of water. Going by these measurements is the safest way to keep the right temperature for a salt fish tank.

Learning how to start a saltwater fish tank and putting the equipment together is time consuming. But, you want to make sure to test all your equipment to be sure it all works properly before you get fish in your tank.

Temperature for a salt fish tank can be harder to manage in a home without central air. If your home does not have central air you have to pay attention and set your heater to the right temperature especially in warm seasons. If you don't, your fish may not survive large temperature drops from day to night.

Temperature for a Salt Fish Tank and Water Changes

It is very important to pay attention to your thermostat especially during water changes. The pH should be around 0.02 and the temperature between one and two degrees of the current water.

When changing the water you need to get the temperature of the new water as close as you can to the old if it was the right temperature. If you can't seem to get the water exactly the same temperature, it's best to have it a little warmer than too cool. Cool water could shock your fish and that isn't good for them at all.

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice and expert tips on maintaining the right temperature for a salt fish tank setup.

Healthy Treats Make Healthy Dogs

Writen by Brad Hayes

As avid dog owners, we all love to give our dogs treats. We seem to enjoy giving our dogs the treats as much as our dogs love receiving them. It undoubtedly has something to do with the way your dogs face instantly lights up when he sees you pull out one of his favorite treats. At that moment you realize that without a doubt you are truly his best friend.

Dog treats can add up to become quite an expense which leads many owners to purchase their dog treats in bulk or at least search for the cheapest brand. Although this may save a buck or two in the long run, it can be rather unhealthy for your dog. The reason is that all dog treats are not created equal; some can even cause health problems.

Commercially Prepared Dog Treats

Chewing Treats

One of the most popular dog treats are the ones that are made out of Rawhide or other dried animal parts. These types of treats include rawhide bones, pig ears, hoofs, leg bones and knuckles, and even rawhide chips. The reason that this type of dog treat is so popular is that they help control one of the most destructive tendencies of a dog. CHEWING! And according to many dog owners, especially those with large breed dogs, any form of treat that will willingly sacrifice itself to save your shoes and table legs is worth its weight in gold.

This form of dog treat can be very beneficial for dog owners and dogs alike. But be careful when selecting rawhide treats for your dog. Pay close attention to how the dog treats has been processed. These types of treats should be baked instead of chemically processed. The dog treats should not have any added preservatives or coloring. Chemically processed treats are full of preservatives and artificial coloring which can cause allergic reactions and digestive disorders. Many dogs often show signs of irritation around their gum lines after chewing on chemically processed treats. Be sure to check the label carefully.

Snack Treats

Another type of commercially prepared dog treat is the snack treat such as dog biscuits, cookies, greenies, and meaty treats. These types of treats should not contain artificial flavors, preservatives, or colorings. They should also offer some nutritional value as well. Since these treats are designed to be eaten, we want to make sure we give our dogs something that has a positive health value. Many of these forms of treats are simply made of scrap animal matter that is full of preservatives and other potentially harmful chemicals.

Besides being inhaled by dogs, these types of dog treats have other benefits as well. Greenies for example help clean your dog's teeth and use chlorophyll in a unique way to naturally freshen your dog's breath. This can also be worth its weight in gold to some dog owners. These types of dog treats should also have essential vitamins and minerals to help keep your dog healthy.

Mother Nature's Dog Treats

Some of the best dog treats can be found right in your refrigerator and in your garden. Fruits and vegetable such as baby carrots, broccoli, celery, and sliced apples are excellent dog treats that are packed with vitamins and void of any added chemicals. Want to drive your dog wild using fruits and vegetables? Try chopping up some fruits and vegetables and mix them with a little bit of peanut butter to form a bite sized snack that your dog will love. If your dog prefers something a bit meatier you can bake beef liver in the oven until it is crispy to make one heck of a treat. Chicken, beef, and pork can all be processed into dog treats in this manner and offer plenty of protein and flavor.

As dear as our dogs are to us, we owe it to them to give them the healthiest form of treats that we can reasonably afford. We all get caught up very easily in trying to save a dollar. Usually our dogs, and other pets for that matter, are the first ones to suffer. So next time you are out purchasing treats for your dog, resist the urge to buy the bargain bag of treats and go for a better brand that is not loaded with preservatives and other chemicals. Just think of the next time you give your dog a treat, not only will you get a happy and perky face from your dog but you will also be much happier with what you have given him.

For more resources and information about healthy Dog Treats you can visit the authors website at http://www.dogs.inferpets.com/dogtreats

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Why Should We Get Kittens As Pets

Writen by Mary Majorda

Kittens are and have always been adorable creatures. Of course, these youngsters are also playful, naughty and mischievous as well. Perhaps that's the reason why people are attracted to them, as they entertain us with their peculiar antics and curiosity. Cats and dogs have been found to relieve humans of stress and make great companions at home. Of course, choosing between a cat and a dog is totally a personal choice.

Why should we get a kitten then? Well, for one thing, they are cute and adorable and are less active as compared to dogs. They recognize us as their masters but do not overly show their enthusiasm like dogs. That's why they make you work for their affection all the time, instead of the other way around.

Kittens are small in size and therefore easy to carry around. This makes it easy for you to take your cat around in your car or when you need to take your cat with you outside. However, cats and kittens have tendencies to seek ways to escape from your home and therefore this may prove to a problem if your cat keeps trying to make its way out of your house. With this, many owners let their cats roam in and out of their houses, and most of the time, their pets return home on time for dinner. Sometimes, they even bring home their own prey for dinner.

Kittens and cats bury their own waste in the sand box, so that you don't have to take after them, unlike dogs. They can be trained to use the sand box which you just need to have a change of sand once in a while. On the other hand, kittens also each much less than dogs, and therefore cost less in maintenance. They are usually non-aggressive, and will be less likely to bite anyone. However, they may get irritated with human behavior and sometimes may want to be left alone. With this, they can scratch with their sharp claws if they are not happy.

Kittens can't be trained be trained. They just won't listen. That is why you will not need to send your cat to cat school to be trained. This will also mean that you don't have to spend money getting your cat trained. Cats and kittens also do not bark and therefore are suitable for apartment or condominiums where they won't even wake up the neighbours.

One thing about cats is their nature to wander around their neighborhood which may get them into trouble sometimes. With this, they may get knocked down by a car or be involved in accidents. Apart from this, cats also can get sick, especially when they wander outside and eat material from outside the home. You will then need to pay for your cat's medical bills, although it will not cost you as much if you were to have a dog.

Finally, kittens do not need you to exercise them like dogs. They don't need to be taken out for walks and they don't make demands on you as well. They live their own lives, but do need to be pat once in a while. If you are a cat person, you will definitely understand them! Look at the adorable cute little kittens and cats!

Mary Majorda of California has lived along with kittens since as long as she can remember. She got her 1st kitten at the age of 2 as a birthday gift from her dad and since then she hasn't parted from cats and kittens. Besides having a family of a husband, 2 kids and 4 kittens, her love for them has pursued her to become a vet.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Parvo In Dogs

Writen by Ron Swerdfiger

What Is Parvo

Parvo is a serious viral disease that can be deadly even if treatment is given. So, to protect your puppy from contracting pravo you need to have your puppy vaccinated against this disease.

First, let's look at what Parvo is and what the symptoms are. Canine Parvovirus is a disease that attacks dividing cells. The most prominent location for dividing cells in your puppy's body is the intestinal lining or the lining of the digestive system. When this disease attacks and kills these cells it causes dogs and puppies to not be able to absorb nutrients or liquids. Parvo is seen more in puppies than in adult dogs, but both can catch the disease. The reason that puppies are more affected is that they have an immature immune system.

What are the Symptoms

Symptoms of pravo include diarrhea, vomiting and lethargy. Most dogs when they are infected with parvo stop eating or have a loss of appetite, diarrhea, high fever, and depression. Their stool can be very liquid, foul smelling, usually yellow in color, and contain blood. The secondary symptoms appear as severe gastrointestinal distress, which includes vomiting and bloody diarrhea. In the later stages of pravo dehydration, shock, and many times death. . Parvo in some cases may also attack a dog's heart causing congestive heart failure. This can occur months or years after an apparent recovery from the intestinal form of the disease.

How is Parvo Transmitted?

Transmission of pravo is from one dog to another through their feces. Parvo can live for up to 9 months when the conditions are right where the feces are found. Parvo can be carried in an adult dog that shows no outward signs of parvo, but the disease can be found in their stool. The disease is not an air born type, but can be transmitted through the sole of your shoe and even birds may carry this deadly disease into your yard if they have been in contact with the infected feces.

Once parvo has invaded your yard or your home it is there to stay if you do not rid the area of the disease. Then, your next dog can and probably will become infected. There is only one way to kill the disease from your home, clothing, or back yard. You will need to use bleach! Soap, water or other household cleansers for your home or clothing will not kill pravo. You should use a mixture of 1/3 bleach to 2/3 water and disinfect everything that the dog has been around including your clothing, his food and water dish and any bedding that he has used. In your yard, soak the entire area with the bleach solution. You can also talk with your veterinarian and purchase a disinfectant such as Parvosan or Roccal which is designed for treating any areas that have been exposed to parvo.

What is the Treatment and Prevention for Parvo?

If your dog does become infected with parvo he has a 5o/50 chance of recovery. But, he will more than likely be weak and easily susceptible to illness.

The best prevention begins when your puppy is 6-8 weeks of age. You should also keep your puppy away from any other dogs until he has received his last shot for parvo. The parvo vaccine is usually included with the distemper vaccine.

All dogs and puppies are susceptible to parvo but there are a few breeds that seem to be more susceptible than others. These include Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, and other black and tan breeds. These breeds usually are more prone to contracting this disease and not recovering.

Without treatment your dog only has a 20% survival rate and with treatment an 80% survival rate. So, of course, the best medicine is to prevent the exposure and to vaccinate your puppy against this deadly disease

Ths website only provides BASIC information about Parvo. Your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about Parvo and its prevention.

For an Online Personal Trainer information visit http://www.worldfitness.ca or for information on cancer visit mesothelioma lawsuits canada

How To Pick The Best Dog Bed For Your Dog

Writen by David Amos

You bring your cute, fun loving puppy home for the first time and of course you want your dog to sleep with you. All furry warm and snuggly. But that is not the best thing to do for you or your dog. You really need a dog bed and establish the correct behavior at the outset. Sure it's fine now but when your dog grows to it's full size at 100 lb, will it be such fun? If you adopted a dog from the pound it may actually prefer it's own place. Somewhere to feel secure and safe.T

There are medical reasons too. If you get your dog used to sleeping in one spot it's less likely to sleep on the floor or other hard surfaces which can cause arthritis and calluses in later years. Starting out correctly can help keep your dog fit and healthy. They even make orthopedic dog beds now to help address this issue.

Now that we have established that a dog bed is essential, what type do you get? It depends on your dog and it's preferences. Make sure the bed is big enough for your dog. Even if it's a perfect fit for your house its really important that your dog can lay down in the bed. If not then it'll never be used. Next on the list of requirements is probably a chew proof bed, especially for puppies  There are multiple styles of dog bed, such as indoor or outdoor, heated or not, travel or car beds and as previously mentioned orthopedic beds for the older dog. Select one that fits your dogs needs and lifestyle.

Some things to consider are that the bed is totally machine washable. Both your dog and the bed are going to get dirty so you'll be washing both regularly – though not at the same time. Fleas are a major consideration too and cedar shavings can help stop them becoming permanent residents.

Take a little time and put in a little effort and both you and your dog will get a great nights sleep and wake up refreshed and ready for the new day!

David Amos is a dog lover and long time dog owner. To find more articles and resources click on Dogs and Dog Beds

Monday, May 26, 2008

How To Grow Daphnia For The Aquarium

Writen by Alden Smith

The benefits of feeding live food to fish in a community tank are many: live food will improve vigor and color, and more closely resemble the food found in the fish's natural habitat. Live food is easily obtained.

Some drawbacks include the transmission of diseases or parasites to the aquarium, it is time consuming to maintain the cultures, and a lot of space needs to be devoted to raising live foods. The cost of equipment and supplies needed to maintain cultures is also a consideration for the beginner.

In this article I will discuss how to raise Daphnia. This article will be part of an on-going series on live foods. You can find many more related articles at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Daphnia belong to a group known as the Daphniidae, and are close relatives of the freshwater shrimp, and the brine shrimp (Artemia). Their generic name is generally referred to as "water flea." This common name is derived from the jerky movements of Daphnia in the water. The over 150 different species can be found in North America, with a similar amount of species growing in Europe. Some of these species find common ground on both continents.

Daphnia are a small crustacean, and are great to use as a fresh food because they will exist in the tank water until eaten by the fish. Daphnia can also be sterilized if it is felt necessary by placing in a 5% solution of Clorox for 3 to 5 minutes. Very few micro-organisms can survive this. Be sure, however, to rinse them thoroughly before feeding!

Daphnia can be raised both indoors and outside. Many people raise daphnia in a small children's wading pool. A more controlled environment, however, is done indoors, and can be done year round if one lives in northern climes. This can be as simple as a couple of two liter bottles, to a 20 gallon tub purchased from a store such as Menard's. The ideal situation is to have as much oxygenated surface area as possible, so if there is room for a larger container, by all means use it. A shallower environment suits daphnia best for prolific growth.

Setting up the environment for daphnia is quite simple. Many methods are used for collecting the water to use for the culture. The best advice I have heard is from Joe F. of Circle City Aquarium Club in Indianapolis, IN. He gave a presentation at the August meeting of Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, and recommends using tank water saved from a tank change. Joe has been raising live foods for a long time, and has had good success. His video presentation was top notch.

PH levels for successful Daphnia cultures should be in the range of 6-8, and should be more alkaline than acidic. If raised outdoors, no aeration is needed. If raised indoors, aeration should be adjusted to produce large bubbles. Small bubbles in the daphnia culture will cause the bubbles to become lodged in the carapace of the culture, and they will die.

Water temperatures for Daphnia magna are not a high requirement, but the optimal temperature should be in the 64-72 degree range. they are very tolerant to changes in temperature, and can withstand fluctuations down to freezing. In fact, Daphnia can be frozen and kept in the freezer, and then revived when needed. Moina withstand a higher fluctuation in temperature than do D. magna.

Lighting should be in the neighborhood of eight or more hours light per day and light intensity equal to or greater than 850 lux. A simple light and a timer can accomplish this indoors.

Feeding the Daphnia is where most aquarists fail. Daphnia feed on dissolved organic matter, yeast, various groups of bacteria, microalgae, and detritus, or mulm. Organic fertilizers, such as fresh cow manure. It is not recommended by our breeder, though, because of the antibiotics and supplements fed to dairy and beef cattle. A much better mixture is a combination of one tablespoon each of spirulina, soy flour, and active dry yeast, added to a pint of water. This mixture should be added so that the water is cloudy, but you are able to see the bottom clearly, and observe the Daphnia swimming in the culture. This mixture should be added carefully every two or three days, being careful not to over feed. At this time, you should see an abundance of Daphnia, and they can be harvested to feed your fish.

Harvesting is quite simple - simply use a small aquarium net, observing that the smaller Daphnia fall through the netting to grow further. In this way, the adults are harvested, and can be fed to your fish. The younger Daphnia can go on to produce still more fish food. Harvested Daphnia can be kept in the refrigerator for several days in clean water.

Daphnia are high in protein, and a very good diet for tropical fish. Some aquarists feed them exclusively. They provide up to 70% protein to your tropical fish, and are an excellent source of live food for the aquarium.

Much can be written on the culturing of Daphnia. This guide is only meant to help the beginner to live foods to establish a colony, and feed live food high in protein to their fish. A series of article on live foods is forthcoming, and can be viewed at http://www.kingdiscus.com.

Alden Smith is a published author, and has been marketing on the internet for 7 years. Read more articles at his website, King Discus, an active gathering place for discus breeders and lovers of discus fish. His wife Betsy is the administrator of All The Best Recipes a site rich in free online recipes and cookbooks.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Just What Exactly Is A Shih Tzu

Writen by Connie Limon

The Shih Tzu has long been prized solely as a companion. The Shih Tzu's temperament is of the utmost importance. It is the Shih Tzu's unique head and expression that actually distinguishes the breed from two other related Oriental breeds, the Lhasa Apso and the Pekingese.

Shih Tzu are alert, arrogant, full of playful antics, and affectionate. Dog show judging is based on how closely each Shih Tzu entered approaches the ideal picture described in the breed standard.

Much of the Shih Tzu breed standard is devoted to the head. A correct head and expression should be round, warm and soft. The head of a correct Shih Tzu is large and round when viewed from the side. The ears look like they blend in with the head. The Shih Tzu's topknot should be placed fairly low on the forehead in a double band to keep the hair from falling forward into the Shih Tzu's eyes.

The eyes of a Shih Tzu should be round, large and dark. A small amount of eye white is acceptable. Excessive eye white in the corners of the eye or around the entire eye detract from the desired warm, sweet expression. Lack of good dark pigmentation on the nose, lips or eye rims also distracts from the desired warm, sweet expression. The eyes should be placed well apart.

The muzzle is short, square and unwrinkled. This is unlike the longer, narrower muzzle of the Lhasa Apso or the extremely short, wrinkled muzzle of the Pekingese. The jaw is undershot, which means the lower jaw is longer than the upper jaw. The teeth should not show when the mouth is closed. The lower lip should not protrude when viewed from the side.

The Shih Tzu should move smoothly, flowingly and effortlessly. One common problem area in the Shih Tzu is poor fronts. Front and rear angulations should be in balance for smooth movement with a good front reach and a strong rear movement.

The Chinese said the Lion Dog should have dragon eyes, a lion head, a bear torso, a frog mouth, palm-leaf fan ears, a feather-duster tail and movement like a goldfish. Lion Dogs (Shih Tzu) appear not only in Chinese art, but also in the art of Tibet, Japan, Korea, Thailand and Indonesia.

The first imports of Shih Tzu to the United States came from England. These very early imports were noted to be "quite large." In 1955, Shih Tzu were admitted by the AKC to the Miscellaneous Class (the breed is now in the Toy Group). At this time the Shih Tzu breed began to gain greater popularity. In 1998, 38,468 Shih Tzu were registered with the American Kennel Club, ranking the Shih Tzu eleventh of all registered breeds.

Famous owners of the Shih Tzu have been: Zsa Zsa Gabor, Yul Brynner, Elizabeth, Queen Consort of George VI.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Reward The Good Dog Behavior And Training Tips

Writen by Michelle Gaylord

Dogs thrive on positive feedback. Rewarding dogs for doing the right thing works better than correcting them for causing trouble. Dogs are happiest and most confident when they get lots of praise (and of course treats), and know that they've earned it.

We all expect our dogs to naturally gravitate towards virtuous behavior, but we are all in for some disappointment. It's not that dogs are bad or misbehaving, but they perceive things differently than we do. Dogs essentially see the world in one of three ways. Everything is either good, bad, or indifferent, and these perceptions govern everything that they do.

Things that are good are those that bear rewards, such as food, affection, treats, and fun. Dogs will naturally gravitate to these things.

Bad things are those that have unpleasant consequences, like a bitter taste or a porcupine quill in the nose. Dogs always learn to avoid those things.

Things that dogs are indifferent to just don't register in their brains, and they don't waste any brain space thinking about them.

For a long time, trainers and behaviorists believed that the best way to teach dogs good manners was to manipulate their instinct to avoid the bad. Dogs who ignored commands, rooted through the trash can, or otherwise got out of line were scolded or given a quick swat. The idea was that they'd associate the bad experience with the bad behavior, and this would put them on the path to righteousness.

Although there is some truth to this, imagine that you're a dog and you've just come across a skunk. Bam, you get a shot of staggering stink right up your nose. The next time you see a skunk, you'll be afraid that it will happen again, and you'll wisely take a detour because you now associate skunks with pain and misery. But suppose you're lying quietly at home, happily munching on a great tasting leather thing. You don't know that it cost $300 and came from Italy! All you know is that all of a sudden you get a tremendous wallop from your human. Sure, you now associate leather shoes with pain, but you also see your owner in a new, and not so pleasant light.

Most trainers believe that it is inappropriate to train an unwanted behavior out of a dog with punishment. Dogs who are often punished may become anxious and fearful, and this causes them to act in anxious and fearful ways – which will end up generating even more discipline.

Behaviorists have discovered that dogs learn better and faster when they're rewarded for good behavior rather than punished for bad. The good feelings that come from rewards last a long time, and the desire to repeat those feelings encourage dogs to keep doing well. At the same time, dogs who are rewarded for doing good things feel closer to their owners and are less afraid than those who are always getting punished.

Rewarding good behavior means giving them positive feedback and perhaps a few yummy dog treats or biscuits, when they do something that you want them to do. Suppose your dog is barking and you tell him to stop. He stops, and you give him a reward. It won't take him long to figure out that being quiet and listening to commands gets him a delicious crunchy treat, while barking doesn't get him much of anything at all. Don't expect a lot of success at first. You'll probably need to follow your pooch around for awhile just to catch them doing something right. For dog gift baskets, more training tips, yummy treats and recipes visit http://www.doglovergiftbaskets.com. Just remember that praise, rewards, and scrumptious treats will train your best friend better and faster than punishment and swats.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Essential Oils And Mrsa

Writen by Kim Bloomer

Natural preventative pet care isn't a new thing but it certainly isn't fully mainstream yet. One of the challenges is being able to re-educate the public to think outside of the box. For so many years we've been told over and over again by traditional care providers that our pets need yearly vaccinations, prevention medicines for heartworm, fleas, and ticks, and feeding premium kibble. We've been told these will all lead to ultimate wellness in our pets. Nothing could be further from the truth.

While we continue to struggle with conquering the mountain of "alternative care is for new age, crystal toting, chanting hippies", our pets are getting sicker rather than healthier. One of the most challenging problems on the rise is super resistant bacteria that are increasingly resistant to the traditional use of antibiotics. Most notably is the rise of MRSA (methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus). This is a staph infection that the antibiotic methicillin can no longer kill. MRSA is passed from humans to pets and it is still mutating into strains in different species animals. Horses have developed their own strain and antibiotics are not the answer! In fact, the overuse of antibiotics is part of the main reason that these bacteria have mutated and evolved.

This staph infection is deadly and can and does kill humans and animals. In fact, this very thing happened to Jill Moss' most beloved white Samoyed, Bella. Jill lost Bella to this staph infection a little over a year ago. It prompted Jill to take serious action and bring the knowledge of this deadly strain of bacteria to the world so that other pet owners and people would not have to suffer the loss she has. Jill has instituted the Bella Moss Foundation (http://www.TheBellaMossFoundation.com ) and Pets-MRSA (http://www.Pets-MRSA.com ) to help bring not only knowledge about MRSA, but hope, help and healing.

Research has already begun on finding ways to stop these virulent bacteria. Scientists at the University of Manchester in England have found that three essential oils destroyed MRSA! Dr. Peter Warn, who was involved in the research, told the BBC (British Broadcasting Company) back in December of 2004 that when he tested the oils in the lab, "absolutely nothing grew. Rather than stimulating bacteria and fungi, the oils killed them off."

One diligent product formulator for a therapeutic essential oils company discovered that two of the oils used were Melaleuca alternafolia and geranium.

So why are essential oils proving so effective at killing even the most virulent bacteria such as MRSA? According to Jacqui Stringer, the Clinical Lead of Complementary Therapies at the Christie Hospital in Manchester, England which treats cancer patients, the reason that essential oils are so effective is because they are made up of a complex mixture of chemical compounds which super bugs such as MRSA find difficult to resist. I would add that because these compounds are naturally occurring and derived from plants –the "blood" of plants – no two oils are exactly alike ever, which is the perfect complex compound to combat a mutating super bug! Current treatments, according to Stringer, are made up of single compounds (like antibiotics) so the MRSA becomes resistant very quickly and leaving only 50% success in the cases of MRSA. Think about that: only a 50/50 chance of survival. Those are not good odds. The hope comes with this new alternative approach to battling these superbugs.

Another added benefit of using essential oils to combat and help prevent (prevention is the goal in stopping MRSA) the spread of MRSA is the application: inhaled either directly or by diffusing them. MRSA is often carried inside the nose so inhaling the essential oils is all that is needed to prevent patients being at risk. This makes them very easy to administer to both humans and pets.

The biggest deterrent to progressing further in the research with the essential oils and combating these superbugs has been funding. In January 2005, the Manchester researchers were having problems obtaining the £30,000 needed for their research to continue. Shortly after finding out about this, Jimmy Savile the former host of the British television program 'Jim'll Fix It", has donated £40,000 for the research to continue! The problem with the funding was that since essential oils are naturally occurring as I stated above, drug companies are really not interested in helping this type of work because they can't profit from a product that is naturally occurring since they can't be patented.

This is really reprehensible since this kind of research could potentially help save thousands of lives and completely stamp out MRSA.

I for one am very excited to see more and more research being done in bringing healing and hope to many, using what God created for us to use in the first place!

News article references:

http://www.irishhealth.com/?level=4&id=6820
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/4116053.stm
http://www.innovations-report.de/html/berichte/medizin_gesundheit/bericht-38150.html
http://www.news-medical.net/?id=6975
http://nutraingredients.com/news/ng.asp?id=56962&n=dh357&c=GICenlwpeazyefa
http://tahilla.typepad.com/mrsawatch/mrsa_wounds_essential_oils/
http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/news/news-ng.asp?n=56957-essential-oils-in
http://www.media52.net/archives/000199.html
http://www.courant.com/classified/custom/pets/petworld/hc-cl-pets-0608,0,3927853.story
http://quikonnex.com/channel/item/14556

DISCLAIMER: The only oils we use and refer to in ALL articles are Young Living Essential Oils. We DO NOT use any other brand and would not state what we do about using essential about any other brands.

About the Author:

Kim Bloomer is a natural pet care educator helping pet owners learn alternative and natural ways to care for their pets. To learn more about the essential oils visit her pet care & supply website at Aspenbloom Pet Care. Visit her dog's blog to learn more about caring for pets naturally from a canine perspective at A Dog's View

Kim is now a USA Representative for the Bella Moss Foundation.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

How To Choose A Veterinarian

Writen by Sherry Kirchenbauer

  1. Get some opinions. Ask around to see where people take their pets, why they take them there, and if they are happy with the veterinarian.
    1. Ask friends, family, and co-workers, but be sure to ask them why they see this particular veterinarian. Pet owners often take their pets to a certain clinic just because they always have and always will, or because the veterinarian is a long-time family friend. This doesn't make it the best choice for you.
    2. Ask groomers, petsitters, kennels, and other pet service facilities.
    3. Ask breeders
    4. Ask people at a breed club
    5. Ask your local humane society or other animal-welfare groups
    6. Ask private pet rescue organizations
  2. Educate yourself on the veterinarian's background
    1. Education
    2. Board certification
    3. Record with the state's medical board (Have any complaints have been filed?)
    4. Record with the local humane society
    5. Membership with any professional veterinary associations
    6. If the veterinarian is a specialist (behavioral, surgical, ophthalmology, etc.), check to see how he or she qualifies to be a specialist. Be sure that he or she has experience, education, and certification in their specialty.
  3. Office Hours, Appointments, and Emergencies
    1. What are the regular office hours? Are they compatible with your schedule?
    2. Are appointments required?
    3. Can you request an appointment with a specific veterinarian? Seeing the same veterinarian will allow him or her to become more familiar with your pet and better able to evaluate whether your pet is ill because he or she has seen your pet before.
    4. How many veterinarians are in the practice?
    5. Are there technicians and other professional staff members?
    6. Who covers the practice when the doctor is unavailable?
    7. Is the doctor available to occasionally answer questions over the phone?
    8. Will the veterinarian take calls or answer phone messages if a crisis befalls your pet during the evening or weekend?
    9. How are emergency calls handled during regular office hours?
    10. How are emergency calls handled after office hours?
      • Does this clinic provide emergency after-hours assistance, or is there a nearby emergency clinic you will be referred to?
      • If your veterinarian refers patients for emergency care, get the address and phone number of the facility and be sure to drive by the emergency facility so you'll know where it is.
      • Is the emergency clinic staffed while your pet is there? Will there be any time period when your pet will be unattended to?
  4. Fees, insurance, and payment methods
    1. Do ask about fees, but don't base your decision solely on the cheapest clinic.
    2. When evaluating fees, be sure to find out what is included, some clinics will include anesthesia, monitoring equipment, and aftercare in the cost of a surgery, while other clinics will have them as separate charges; so you aren't always comparing the same fees and services.
    3. Is the veterinarian a specialist in an area that you do not require for your pet? Fees may be higher for specialists and it might not make sense to pay more for a specialist that does not apply to the needs of your pet.
    4. Are discounts offered for senior citizens or multi-pet households?
    5. Is payment expected on the day of the visit?
    6. Does the clinic accept your insurance plan?
    7. What methods of payment are accepted? Are credit cards accepted?
  5. Condition and location of the facility
    1. Is the facility clean, comfortable, and well-organized?
    2. Examine the lobby, waiting room, parking lot, and lawn for cleanliness and odors.
    3. Are the magazines and literature in the waiting room current or out-dated?
    4. Are the posters and bulletin boards well-kept? Or are they ripped, stained or out-dated?
    5. What types of products do they sell? Are they focused more on providing medical care or pushing products?
    6. Some veterinary clinics are members of the American Animal Hospital Association, which means that the clinic has voluntarily pursued and met the association's standards in the areas of facility, equipment, and quality care.
    7. How busy is the clinic? Is the lobby full or are the phones ringing off the hook? A certain level of busyness is a good sign, but too many clients can lead to long waiting times and a low availability of appointments.
  6. Friendliness and quality of staff
    1. Are they helpful and informative?
    2. Are they too pushy?
    3. Do they take the time to listen and answer your questions?
    4. Do they seem to want to get off the phone quickly or do they seem too busy for you? If yes, they will probably always be too busy to give your pet the care needed.
    5. Are they dressed professionally and cleanly?
    6. Is the receptionist friendly? Does he or she answer the phone professionally and state his or her name? Can he or she answer basic questions about pet care?
    7. Is the staff friendly, caring, calm, competent, and courteous?
    8. Does the veterinarian interact well with the technicians?
    9. Are you comfortable with the veterinarian? Veterinarians are a individual as the rest of us. Some have an easy "bedside manner" and others are more abrupt and in a hurry. Some will explain every detail about your pet's condition and others are too busy to do so. Some will calm your fears and grieve with you and others will brush off your concerns or seem insensitive to the loss of a pet.
    10. Be aware that technicians handle basic procedures, such as drawing blood, taking temperatures, and preparing your pet for surgery, so it is important that you are comfortable with the technician's ability to handle your pet and work with you.
  7. Range of services that the clinic provides
    1. Are x-rays, ultrasounds, bloodwork, and other diagnostics done in-house or referred to a specialist?
    2. How quickly are the test results received?
    3. Does the veterinarian offer a wide range of medications?
    4. Does your pet require a veterinarian with special interests, such as geriatrics?
    5. What experience does the veterinarian have with any specific medical need your pet might have, such as diabetes, allergies, or chronic pain?
    6. What is the veterinarian's policy on vaccinations for kittens, puppies and adult cats and dogs? Many veterinarians are getting away from automatic annual vaccinations for adults because of evidence that immunization lasts longer than 12 months for some vaccines, and research has linked too-frequent vaccinations with immune system disorders.
  8. Other things to consider
    1. The veterinarian should perform an exam on your pet during the first visit. This should include feeling the pet over for suspicious lumps or bumps, checking the eyes and ears, listening to the heart, and checking the teeth.
    2. The veterinarian should ask you questions about the pet's general health and ask for the pet's medical history.
    3. Your pet should be comfortable with the veterinarian. An experienced veterinarian will handle the most difficult pet without causing any undue stress on the pet.
    4. Does the clinic offer any other services such as boarding or grooming?
    5. Is the veterinarian willing to prescribe medication and allow you to fill the prescription elsewhere?
    6. Do you trust the veterinarian? Most importantly, what do your instincts tell you?
    7. If you are transferring your pet from another clinic, be sure to transfer your pet's medical records.

Written by Sherry Kirchenbauer,
animal advocate and owner of Noah's Animal Figurines.
http://www.noahsanimalfigurines.com

Dog Behavior Training Stop Dogs From Jumping Up On People

Writen by Chris S

Dogs jumping up on people is at best an embarrassing and annoying habit, at worst a danger for all involved.

what starts out as a cute habit in young puppies can escalate into a big problem that can be difficult to correct. If you can't stand your much loved dog jumping up on you, just imagine what visitors to your home must think.

Dog Jumping Up - Annoying: Jumps all over you every time you come home, on visitors to your home and just when you've put on freshly cleaned and ironed pants.

Dog Jumping Up - Dangerous: Any small child or elderly person who crosses path with your dog. Depending on the size of your dog, anyone could be in danger of being knocked off their feet, or worse.

Why Do Our Dogs Jump Up On People?

  1. Excitement, they're just showing you that they are happy to see you.

  2. Your dog could be seeking attention.

  3. To assert dominance over you or guests.

General Tips For Correcting Dog Behavior Problems - Jumping Up

  • Start as early as you can. It's much easier to prevent behavior problems such as jumping up than to modify an existing habit.

  • Punishing or hitting a dog for jumping up just doesn't make sense and will never work. Your goal, and your best chance of stopping your dog from jumping up is to clearly communicate that jumping up is always unacceptable behavior.

  • Never reward a dog that jumps up on people by giving them the attention they are seeking.

  • You have to send a consistent message to your dog in all circumstances. Make it simple for your dog and eliminate any confusion. This means that everybody who comes into contact with your dog has to reinforce the same message. It's pointless if you give your dog a cuddle and attention when he jumps up on you, but then yell at him when he jumps on a delivery man.

How To Stop Your Dog From Jumping Up

Depending on what stage you're at with the jumping up problem, you should find one of these training techniques will do the trick. In most cases you will see some positive results in a matter of days. These are my favorite methods which I have successfully used to stop my dogs from jumping:

  • When you see that your dog is ready to launch up at you, turn your body away from him. This will make your dog miss you, or at the very least deflect him off you. During this process don't make any eye contact with your dog and don't say a thing. Ignore your dog and make it clear to him that when he jumps he gets nothing from you. When your dog has settled down and stops jumping you then initiate some contact with him. Get down to his level and lavish him with praise and a nice scratch behind the ear. If you are consistent and persistent with this method, your dog will soon learn that staying on all four legs is a much better alternative!

  • The next method is the one I prefer to use with my dogs. In situations where your dog is excitable and prone to jumping up, give him something else to do. In these situations I instruct my dogs to "sit" - this is sometimes referred to as "alternate behavior training". So instead of jumping around like lunatics, my dogs sit patiently awaiting my attention (which I always reward them with).

  • Many dog trainers use and recommend correcting jumping up problems with a pinch collar (sometimes called a prong collar). This technique is most suitable for bigger, strong willed breeds like German Shepherds and Rottwheilers. The key is to leave the pinch collar on whenever you are around your dog and have a short leash attached to it. At the moment your dog jumps, give a short sharp snap downwards on the leash. This tightens the collar and creates a negative association to your dog. It is said to replicate the correction that dogs use between themselves. Never pull on the leash for more than a second or two, and never hurt your dog. When used the right way the pinch collar should not leave a mark on your dogs neck. Your dog will learn very quickly that when he jumps up on people, it will be an unpleasant experience.

The good thing about jumping up problems in dogs is that they are usually an easy fix. As long as you are determined to correct the problem and follow the above training techniques you should be on the right track.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

You are the best person in the world to train your dog. Discover the best training techniques to use with your dogs at home.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Doggin Miami Where To Hike With Your Dog When In Magic City

Writen by Doug Gelbert

Until recently dogs were not allowed in any of Miami's parks but here and there a park is allowing dogs in now. There are quite a few dog parks in Miami, both official and unofficial.

One is a five-acre Bark Park with paved walkways, benches, shade trees, waste dispenser stations, and specially designed drinking and spray fountains for dogs and their owners at Amelia Earhart Park. This dog-friendly oasis can be found at 401 East 65th Street in Hialeah.

Fifteen minutes to the north, canine hikers can get on the trails at Oleta River State Park. Historically the river, originally called Big Snake Creek, linked the Everglades with Biscayne Bay and was an important transportation route. Pineapples and vegetables were grown along its banks. The river no longer flows north to the Everglades but many of its primoridal features can still be seen in the 1,043-acre park, the largest urban park in Florida.

There are more than ten miles of trails in dog-friendly Oleta River State Park, most of which are heavily used by mountain bikers. Many of the trails run along the Biscayne Bay. Some trails are posted as "bike only" but with the lack of general canine hiking in the Miami area, this is still a good place to bring your dog.

Oleta River State Park can be found at 3400 N.E. 163rd Street, off I-95.

Doug Gelbert is the author of over 20 books, including The Canine Hiker's Bible. To subscribe to his FREE Newsletter on hiking with your dog and receive a copy of Rules for Dogs in 100 of the Most Popular National Park Service Lands, visit http://www.hikewithyourdog.com In the warmer months he leads canine hikes for hikewithyourdog.com tours, guiding packs of dogs and humans on hiking adventures. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches.

Your Very Own Pug Puppy

Writen by Dane J Stanton

Wouldn't it be great to own your very own pug puppy one day? Having it look up at you with its big puppy dog eyes and its cute black, scrunchy nose. Before you decide to go out and buy your pup, there are a few things you need to know first.

Facial Structure

When choosing a pug puppy you have to look for certain features in their faces. The first feature you need to look at is they're ears. They have to be small but not too small. If they are too small you can usually tell as their ears generally not suit their face. If they are too big then this is also a bad thing. Same with this you can usually tell just by looking at them. The second facial feature you need to look at when buying a pug puppy is their nose. The nose you will be looking for can't be pushed into the pup's face too much as this will result in certain breathing complications later on down the track. This usually reduces a pugs lifespan by 2-3 years in most cases. The last thing you need to look at is the amount of wrinkles on their face. In the case of show dogs, more is better, however the more wrinkles on a pugs face again usually promotes breathing complications in the future.

Personality Of Each Pug Puppy

This is perhaps the biggest area needed to be discussed when it comes to buying the right pug puppy. What makes a good personality for each individual case. Firstly if you are planning on showing your pug, you are best off looking for a puppy that is not to outrageous as this will mean he/she will be harder to train for the ring. Judges are looking for well behaved pugs that respond to human commands at will. A pug with a naturally outgoing personality will not be able to control itself in the ring. You are better off choosing a pup that is more willing to listen to you. For example when you ask it to come, it comes. Simple as that.

If however, you are not planning on showing your dog in the ring and you would like like to have a pug that is friendly and outgoing, then I would suggest looking for the puppies that are always full of energy. They may not listen to your every command, but I assure you they will be a lot of fun to play with. I would probably recommend this type of pug puppy for a family with younger children. They will have a great time growing up together playing in the backyard.

Dane Stanton is the owner of PugTrainingReview.com which is an extensive review of the top Pug training courses on the internet. Find which course is best for you and your Pug! http://www.PugTrainingReview.com

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Salt Water Fish Tank Ease Of Keeping Salt Water Fish At Home

Writen by Roger Donovan

The ocean is the vastest of all the water bodies. It's the home to millions of species – playful, colorful, savage and awe-inspiring. The array of fish, their colors, playful lives – part mystery and part comprehensible, ignites a desire to have them close at home. The idea of a salt-water fish tank is the solution. The display of diversity and range is what a salt-water fish tank can offer, as it's a mini ocean. The salt-water environment provides a scope to display a wide assortment of fish whose lives and behavior patterns are intriguing. Angels, Anglers, Basslets, Batfishes, Cardinals, Clowns, and Damsels – the list is endless.

One has to read, interact with aquarium shops, hobbyists and learn a lot before embarking on this hobby. Education and information can ensure that the fish live healthy and longer, saving lots of money.

A few things like the tank size, water salinity and chemical composition, lighting and filtration, fish combination etc. if taken care off, and then one can have an enjoyable experience as an aquarist.

Seawater can be used in the tank if one is living near a sea or special salt available at the aquarium shops can be mixed with fresh water. When you use seawater, make sure the water is unpolluted. Fetching seawater far from ports and harbors is advisable in this regard. Cooking salt is never mixed to fresh water to create marine water for aquariums.

A compatible combination of fish should be chosen for the tank. Surely, you don't want to have a fish in the tank, which can have the other fish for breakfast. There are lists of compatibility available and the choice of fish should be based on that to avoid aggressive fish killing tender and shy fish, fish unable to adjust to change in habitat, invertebrates getting killed by treatment for saltwater "ich" of fish etc.

There is plenty of literature around, on this hobby. If studied carefully and followed, the aquarist hobby can be an enjoyable one. The sweat involved initially may be salty but the end result will definitely be sweet. The salt-water fish tank would symbolize color and life in your home.

Fish Breeding FAQ - You can find the answer to all you questions about Fish breeding or ask your question in Fish Breeding Forums.

Monday, May 19, 2008

The Cats Who Saw Mary

Writen by John Young

Bella-Quisha showed up on our doorstep one day, and our family immediately fell in love with her. She was a beautifully marked Tabby with the distinguishing markings that race of cats always have: stripes from head to tail.

Everybody had a different name for her. My wife called her "Bella", which means "beautiful" in Spanish (though my wife is not Spanish), and my daughter called her "Quisha", which as far as I know, has no meaning at all. Nobody could agree on what her name should be, so we just gave her both names, hyphenated.

Her "meows" had a plaintive quality to them, so I named her "Poor Baby". Every time she cried I automatically said the words "poor baby", and I think she eventually came to the conclusion that "poor baby" was indeed her name.

Now, I've had at least one cat with me since I was four years old – around 57 years ago. In short, I have had a lot of cats, and I've become accustomed to the "personality" of cat, which varies from cat to cat but not as much as does the personality of dogs.

There was something, however, that was very different about Bella – some quality that one could only be defined as "wisdom". Bella seemed to have some sort of basic understanding or "insight". When you looked into her eyes, you could see that unlike most cats, she was looking back.

She seemed to know, and understand, who you were and what you were about.

I took her to our family veterinarian for her shots and made a comment on this unusual quality I perceived in her

"Of course she's different," Dr. Martin said. "Look at her forehead."

What's the point in that? I thought. I'd been looking at her forehead for quite some time and had seen nothing particularly unusual. But I went ahead and took another look.

"What do you see?" Dr. Martin said.

"Stripes. She's got a lot of striped markings across her forehead, like all Tabbies." I still couldn't see anything unusual about her.

"Look again. The stripes are in the shape of an 'M'."

I took a closer look, and suddenly it jumped out at me. The pattern on her forehead was indeed in the shape of an 'M'!

"She is a descendant of the cats who were in the stable the night the Christ Child was born. They were witnesses to that event, and for that reason they were given greater enlightenment that other cats. They bear the mark of His Mother. She put it on their foreheads, and they've born it ever since.

"They are the cats who saw Mary."

An 'M', I thought. It was displayed very clearly. An 'M' for Mary.

I took Bella home, thinking that that was one of the strangest experiences I'd ever had. I'm not a Catholic, and I'd always had a basic instinctual aversion for such things. But I couldn't help but think there was definitely something to what the doctor had said.

The cat was different; there was no question about it. And, she had a very clearly defined mark.

I lost my job. In the days and weeks that followed the stress of being out of work and my wife's grieving over our "empty nest" wasn't easy to cope with. Through all this trouble, however, Bella comforted us in some basic way. Bella seemed to know our grief, and she was there for both of us – with a definite, though indefinable, comfort.

After awhile, though, I noticed that she seemed to be gaining too much weight. She was crying more than usual, especially when I picked her up, and I quit responding to her cries with the words, "Poor baby" because they came so frequently.

She seemed to be in some sort of pain.

Finally I took her to the vet for her booster shots, and while waiting for my appointment, bragged to a lady on the other side of the waiting room about Bella, telling her how smart she was and what insight she seemed to have.

Then I was called into the examination room.

"Oh, you have a dead cat here," Dr. Martin said.

"What do you mean?"

"She has a tumor; it won't be long before it takes her."

I was shocked beyond words. My pride and elation suddenly vanished, and I felt as if I'd been dropped into a pit.

"Isn't there… Isn't there something you can do?" I stammered.

"No, it's too advanced. I can't operate without killing her. She is in a lot of pain, and to be kind you should put her out of her misery."

I was forced to leave her there to be euthanized. There was nothing else I could do. I gave the lady in the waiting room a miserable look as I left empty handed, my wonderful kitty suddenly gone. When I told my wife, her legs went out from under her and she sank to the floor, her eyes closed.

We had lost our comfort. Anger flooded me, but when I finally got over it, I asked the question, "Why did she have to die? She was such a comfort to us, and we loved her!"

And I did get an answer, "Because Mary wanted her."

It took awhile, but I finally came to an agreement with that. God had given Bella to us, and if Mary wanted her back, she was in good hands.

And that was all right with me.

© John Young www.yourcatsecrets.com All Rights Reserved

Hi! My name is John Young. I'm a writer and a cat lover, having owned one cat or another since I was four, and that was over 57 years ago. I've written a new ebook, "Your New Cat's First 24 Hours", and have packed into it every shred of information I could find to help you introduce your new cat to your household and care for it from then on. Please check out my website at http://www.yourcatsecrets.com and sign up for my free newsletter, "Your Cat's 9 Secrets". Thanks!

What Fleas Are And How To Get Rid Of Those Pesky Critters

Writen by Nathan T. Lynch

Bleh – fleas! 'Tis the season – are you prepared? It's not just at home where you need to be ready either. Different geographical areas have different climate conditions so the flea season varies depending on where you are – keep that in mind whether you are at home or traveling. Something else to be aware of is that fleas, in various stages of their disgusting lives, can survive indoors even during the cold weather. Following are some helpful facts about fleas and information on how you can prevent them from infesting your pets and your home.

Even though there are more than 2,000 known species and subspecies of fleas, only one class of flea called the 'cat flea' is to blame for almost all the fleas found on cats and dogs in the United States. What is really daunting is that there is evidence of fleas dating all the way back to the dinosaur era which means they obviously aren't going away by themselves – all the more reason to do something to protect your pets and family.

Most fleas can survive for an average of two to three months without 'food' which is actually the blood they suck from their 'hosts'. A female flea consumes 15 times her own body weight in blood daily! You should also know that while adult fleas suck blood from a cat, dog or other mammal, their larvae live and feed on organic debris in the host animal's environment – that's your home! Be aware that some fleas can jump 150 times their own length – that compares to a human jumping 1,000 feet. So if you happen to see one flea, there may be more than 100 offspring or adults looming nearby in furniture, carpeting or on your pet.

Now let's talk about how to prevent these gross little parasites from getting into your life and how to get rid of them if they do. As a pet owner, one of your main responsibilities is to keep your pet healthy. Taking them to the vet for their annual check ups is very important. While you're there, be sure to talk to your veterinarian about a flea prevention method for your furry friends such as Advantage, Advantix or Frontline. Certain products can also help to prevent ticks in addition to fleas.

If you see fleas on your pets or in your home, take action immediately. Not only are fleas a huge annoyance, but they can also transmit diseases and tapeworm. If your home becomes infested, you will probably need to purchase flea bombs – make sure read and adhere to the directions carefully and contact your vet to get further advice and relief for your pet and family.

Find out once and for all how to get finally get rid of those pesky fleas with our flea control management resources.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Tips For Frustrated Dog Owners

Writen by Justin Bryce

Ever felt like your dog just wasn't paying any attention to you at all? You talked, you yelled, you shouted, maybe you jumped up and down and waved your arms, but he just wasn't interested in anything you had to say to him in any tone of voice.

Well don't worry. This happens to all dog owners at some time. But there are things that you can remember to help you through it.

1. Your dog isn't human.

Unless you believe in dog whisperer's, there's really no way for you to read your pooch's mind and figure out exactly what he's thinking. The good news is that, like many dog owners, the problems you're having can probably be traced to one simple thing: you're trying to communicate with your dog from a human standpoint, and your dog isn't a human. Sure, you know that, but lots of humans try to relate with their dogs in the ways that they think are rational as humans. The problem is that strong instincts drive dogs in every act and every moment. Deciphering those instincts and leveraging them to build a productive relationship is like finding the keys to the city.

2. Your dog doesn't speak English/French/German or any other language.

Take the word "no," for example. Does your dog speak English? What's meaningful to your dog is your tone of voice, not the word itself. Now let's think about that – we're taking up excess time trying to teach our dog a word he'll never speak and that probably doesn't mean much to him anyway. Sure, it's meaningful to us, but that's only one side of the equation. What about something that's meaningful to both human and dog?

3. You know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means.

If you think that mutually meaningful language doesn't exist, you're not thinking creatively enough. What does it say to you when a dog growls at you? Anything from "get away from my food" to "back off, dude," right? Yet in every case, a dog's growl typically means that he is not happy with whatever you've done. And you've seen dogs react to other dogs' growls, right? So you know what a growl means, and your dog knows what a growl means. Where's the disconnect? Growl at your dog!

I am serious here. The next time your dog starts stepping outside her bounds or doing something you don't like, growl at her. A nice, strong, guttural growl that would put the alpha wolf in a pack to shame. While you're growling, look directly into her eyes. You're almost guaranteed that she'll back off.

4. Instincts save time and communicate effectively.

See that? You worked with the instinct and the information hardwired into the brain, and the result was instantaneous. Why spend your time working against the instinct to only end up frustrated, angry, and still miscommunicating? This approach works in everything from basic discipline to full-on obedience training. You just need to figure out how to apply it in each of those situations.

Justin Bryce is the Proprietor of http://www.dogtreatrecipes.com.au Stop by for over 400 dog treat recipes and fantastic dog health and care tips.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

How To Keep Your Dog Stay Healthy

Writen by Sanggaya Lanny

One thing you should keep in mind that prevent is better than cure which means stay healthy is a must.

It is important to have basic knowledge or information about dog health, because you will be able to immediately identify symptoms and take first necessary action to minimize problem before you see the veterinarian.

Try to timely maintain schedule of your dog periodical health checking. Ask questions to the veterinarian about your dog health and what need to provide in your first aid box.

Pay more attention to certain body of your dog such as, mouth, eyes, ear, nose, skin and paw. General symptoms commonly found for instance:
• Mouth - reddish, swelling, pale gums, wounded or smell breath
• Eyes –clarity, red spotted, swelling, bleeding
• Nose – reddish, snot, liquid clarity
• Ear – reddish, flea checking
• Skin – flea, skin color, wound
• Paw – wound, abrasion, broken nail

There are certain contagious diseases like, canine brucellosis caused by infection, canine distemper, leptospirosis and rabies caused by virus and other diseases caused by bacteria or germs. One early detection to these diseases is to monitor your dog behavior and his pattern of activities, such as listless, being in his house more often and turn waste color and shape. Be alert for these symptoms as he might be infected by the disease.

Other symptoms you should know is diarrhea, blood spotted or more liquid on his waste. Loose his balance, such as vomit, stiff, cough and loosing appetite.

Things above are commonly find on daily basis dog care and can be useful to evaluate your dog health. In order to understand and ability to observe and check, you can take preventive action if your dog shows these symptoms and finally you can decide if your dog needs veterinarian.

You can use less time and cost to take care of your dog and more importantly your dog play and do anything what he needs to do…

More tips and information on how to take care of your dog or other pets, visit us at: http://www.all-for-pets.com

Lanny Sanggaya

In Search Of That Perfect Coat For Our Dogs And Cats

Writen by Babu Banik

Pet owners always wish that their cats and dogs had that perfect sheen on their coats. And for many years, pet owners have given fatty acids to their dogs and cats to change a dull, dry coat into a more glossy one. Recent research has shown that fatty acids play important roles in other areas of skin and coat health.

The diet of cats and dogs differ in many respects. While dogs like us are omnivorous, cats are carnivorous. In spite of the difference in diets, it is a known fact that one of the necessary elements of a health promoting diet for us humans, for dogs, and for cats is fats. Fatty Acids are important for a wide array of cell structure components and for many chemical reactions in the body. They play a vital role in establishing a healthy lipid barrier in the skin which blocks irritants and infections. The bottom line is that without Fatty Acids in proper ratios, your pets are in trouble!

Cats and dogs can produce some of the fatty acids they need, but not all of them. The liver and other tissues can make many fatty acids that are required for the body's chemical reactions to go on. In dogs, though, there is one that they cannot make themselves: Linoleic Acid (also called Omega6 Fatty Acid). In cats there are two essential fatty acids: Linoleic and Arachidonic Acids. The fatty acids that they cannot produce themselves must be obtained through their diet or supplements and are called essential fatty acids.

Proper diet can be a source of essential fatty acids but the fatty acids in foods are subject to degradation. These fatty acids are vulnerable to heat and overcooking can destroy them. Heat, either by processing or cooking, destroys Essential Fatty Acids creating free radicals as a result. Also, improper storage or a sub optimal amount of antioxidants in dry food may result in rancidity and a subsequent deficiency in fatty acids.

Essential Fatty Acids supplement for dogs and cats replenishes the essential fatty acids that are easily destroyed by normal processing of commercial pet food. Hair coats, which are dull, brittle, and dry, respond favorably to supplementation with essential fatty acids. Supplementing your pet's diet with essential fatty acids will produce the following visible results in just a few weeks:

• Glossy and softer coat
• Reduced fleas
• Improved tolerance to fleabites and other allergens
• Less hair shedding
• Healthier and smooth skin

Give your pet, the glossy coat that it deserves and you only dreamt of by supplementing its diet with Essential Fatty Acids. Your pet deserves the best!

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Friday, May 16, 2008

Animal Communicator

Writen by Mary Rosendale

I have a business card burning a hole in my Rolodex. It's from an animal communicator. Someone who allegedly interprets mental pictures from animals. I love my dog dearly. He communicates with very expressive eyes and I don't seem to have much trouble" getting" him. But because I'm so attached to him I've been toying with the idea of going that step further to find out what's really in his mind. So why don't I?

Well. Some givens going into the situation. What goes on in dog's heads is important to them. They're not likely to give you a tip on the fifth at Santa Anita. They think about food, toys, other dogs. And although I'm not quite sure how the process works I don't think it's like Karnak the Magician where you can ask questions.

But back to why I don't just call the number and set up an appointment.

Maybe I'm not sure I want to know what my dog thinks of me or what goes on in his head. After all he is privy to all our secrets.

I once read a story, supposedly true, about a cat that peed on his owner's bed every Sunday morning and at no other time. His mommy called in an animal communicator who asked the cat why he peed on the bed every Sunday. The cat replied that when mommy left the house to go to Church some other woman came in with her husband and they both booted him out of the bedroom. So he took a leak just to screw with them.

This may be an urban legend like the poodle in the microwave. But it sure makes you think twice about animal ESP.

I wonder what my boy would say about us to total strangers.

" My mommy drinks wine sometimes and gets sad when daddy goes out? Daddy looks at pictures of naked ladies on the Internet when mommy goes to yoga class. They watch way too much TV. It hurts my ears".

And how do they say anything? Do they use words? How can they say they like peanut butter if they don't know that peanut butter is called peanut butter. To them it's a pill delivery product.

I know that my dog adores me. I believe it's unconditional. But what if I found out that what he was really thinking as he was jumping up at me as I came through the door was "You jerk, you left me alone for five hours and I've got to pee like a racehorse." Little though he is he has the heart of a lion if he thinks I'm being threatened. But what if what he really felt was "I can't believe I've got to step up AGAIN to get between you and this weird looking bum. Don't you know better than to open the door to just anyone!"

I've been racking my brain trying to think of some human benefit from the limited amount of interspecies communication we've had so far. We were able to train dolphins to mine harbors so I guess you could say that that benefits us. But weren't some of them blown up in the process? So, not so good for them. What about poor KoKo. Have we treated gorillas any better since we discovered they could experience bereavement and sadness?

Ultimately, what it may come down to is that I love my dog, and all animals, precisely because I can't communicate with him in any kind of human way. I don't need to reason with him; make a case; persuade him; or be critiqued on my wardrobe. I tell him what I want him to do and sometimes he actually does it. He tells me what he needs and he gets it. We have a pretty good system. If it ain't broke why fix it?

Mary Rosendale is the proud mama of Wally Barker. See his advice column on her blog http://theconstructedlife.blogs.com/clear_and_present When she's not tending to his every need she is a Holistic Life Coach with a unique Coaching service rooted in Buddhist psychology. Visit her on the web at http://www.TheConstructedlife.com If you can't play - what's the point?

Puppy Buying Some Things To Consider

Writen by Steve Allison

So you have decided to buy a dog for your family you are wondering what breed is right for you. That's great! Now you just need to carefully decide what kind of dog will be the best fit for you and your family. The most important considerations is the size and the amount of grooming they will need, but there are many other things to consider.

Different breeds also have different needs. So do families. You need to honestly ask yourself how much time you have for a dog. How big is your garden? How much time do you have to spend with your dog? Will you have time to walk them regularly? Have them trained? Do you have very small children in the house? What will you do with the dog if you go away on vacation often? If you are sure you want a dog you need to think very carefully about what kind of breed will suit your family's needs. What kinds of things should you look for when choosing a breed and buying the dog?

You should try to find out more about the breed before you get the dog. Try to read whatever you can about the breed you are thinking about choosing. It's really vital that you learn as much as you can about the breed you are intending to buy. Some dogs are more susceptible to different genetic disorders.

Large dogs can suffer all kinds of problems. Their joints and bones are vulnerable. They are more susceptible to hip-displasia - a degenerative hip disease which can be painful and chronic. They take up much more room so you will need a large back yard for them to run; they need lots of exercise. If you are on a tighter budge you may want to consider a smaller dog because they do not eat as much.

Smaller breeds have problems of their own. Little dogs with short noses (muzzles) are susceptible to breathing problems far more than their larger counterparts. This is because there is not as much space for the breathing organs to develop. You can't tell by looking at a puppy, whether they will have health problems later in life. Smaller breeds are prone to sinus and nasal problems. There are many other breeds with specific health risks associated.

Grooming should be another consideration before you buy a dog. If you have the time to come your new Yorkshire Terrier or Maltese then by all means get this breed. They require daily combing of the hair however you can keep it short. The more self sufficient breeds would be the Boston Terrier or Pugs. They have such short hair that it needs very little maintenance.

Ask dog breeders any questions before deciding and buying the dog. A professional dog breeder can tell you more about the specifics on the particular breed you are considering.

Steve Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders along with his brother Gary. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu's and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies they occasionally has for sale at All My Puppies Online Steve is also the co-author of two consumer guides, Carpet Secrets and Moving Secrets Guide.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

The Labrador Retriever Number One Popularity

Writen by Michael Russell

The Labrador Retriever is presently at the top of the list in popularity in the American Kennel Club. Unfortunately popularity in a dog breed often leads to problems with over breeding and this often leads to an over population of the dog in the humane shelters across the country. This is the case right now with the Labrador Retriever. Often people do not recognize that when they get a puppy, it is going to grow up. Also people seem to believe that a hunting dog can be left outside and kenneled and yet not all hunting dogs make good "kennel dogs" and the Labrador Retriever is one of those. This is a breed that is a close relative of the Newfoundland, it is a people oriented dog with a natural desire to be with people. When kept outdoors it can become quite unmanageable since it will jump enthusiastically on people and bark at the sight of people and generally make trouble out of boredom and anxiety.

The Labrador Retriever was originally called the "Lesser Newfoundland", being from the island of Labrador (right next door to Newfoundland) and being black, but smaller than the Newfoundland dog. The dog performed a number of tasks for the fishermen of Labrador, pulling in boats and fishing nets and a variety of water related activities. Labrador Retrievers can be fairly good sized dogs, ranging in height from 23-26 inches and in weight from 60-110 pounds. They should have plenty of bone but should not appear bulky. Labs are a water breed, they carry a water resistant double coat that is dense and often it is difficult to get them "wet to the skin" if bathing them. They are excellent swimmers and should have a good square appearance to the muzzle, with plenty of depth and strength of jaw, for they should be capable of carrying a Canada goose back to shore when retrieving. The North Atlantic seas are cold and fierce, the dog is well equipped to swim in such an environment, for it has a deep chest and plenty of power in the front shoulders. Labs can be black, yellow, or brown, (called "chocolate").

A Lab is an all around hunting dog also and will retrieve on both land and water. A well trained Lab at a hunting trial is a totally awe inspiring sight, they will "mark" the dummy and swim over and through many obstacles to retrieve "to hand" with great skill. Hunters who have a well trained dog will often find that they end up with more birds than they actually shot, since the Lab will bring back any bird that is downed.

The temperament of the Labrador is outgoing, steady, enthusiastic and extremely people oriented. This is a dog that should never show aggression towards people and seldom shows any aggression towards other dogs or animals in general. It is a breed that possesses great intelligence and a playful personality, its propensity to retrieve anything that is thrown for it makes it a delightful dog for children to play with. Lab puppies are not hard headed and learn quickly, if trained when they are young. They are very obedient for they are dogs that are anxious to please their owners.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs

Naming Your Pedigreed Dog

Writen by Blake Kritzberg

Unlike some aspects of dog ownership, naming your dog is just plain fun! The pets themselves don't require much; they just need a pleasing dog name they can identify with when you give them commands. But if you plan to show a purebred dog in competitions, there's a lot to consider when it's time to choose a dog name for your dog's American Kennel Club certificate. Let's start at the beginning.

The name of the kennel your dog came from is part of his show name. Usually, it's the first part of his name as it appears on the certificate. If you purchased your dog from a show kennel, then the kennel's name should be first, such as: Dexy's Fido. If you bred the dog yourself, then use your own original kennel name. You can also use a combination such as 'Dexy's Fido of (your kennel name here)' so that your dog's name reflects both where he comes from and where he now resides.

Originality is important when choosing a show dog name. The American Kennel Club (AKC) doesn't allow duplicate dog names, and will ask you to choose another name if your pick is already taken.

Unusual dog names with creative spelling attract attention to your dog in a show catalog, while reducing the chance that you've nearly duplicated another dog's name. For example, 'Dexy's Hi-Jac' is a cute play on the word hijack. It's catchy yet original, and offers a great built-in theme for the future if you advertise your dog in breed and show magazines. You could use, "He'll hijack your heart" for your ads. Cute, right?

Once you've selected your dog's 'paper name', the work isn't over. You'll still need to settle on a shorter dog 'call name' for everyday reference. Using our example of Dexy's Hi-Jac, the name Jack immediately suggests itself for the dog's call name, while directly referring us back to his official dog name on the AKC papers.

So, now that you know the basics of dog naming, you're ready to choose a dog name that will serve you well both at home and in the show ring.

Blake Kritzberg is editor of FavorIdeas. Stop by for continually-updated celebrity wedding news, remarkable beach wedding favors, exclusive hairstyling articles and gorgeous and unique wedding favors.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Tips That May Help Your Arthritic Dog

Writen by M. Elizabeth Joyce

Arthritis refers to inflammation or swelling in a joint. The cause can be abnormal bone or joint development, instability of the surrounding ligaments and tendons, damage or injury to the joint, an infection, or injury caused by the immune system. While anti-inflammatory medicines are popular treatments for arthritis, another approach involves protecting the cartilage in the joint and "nourishing" the joint.

Here are tips that may help your arthritic dog.

Slip-free Flooring. Hardwood and tile are slippery and can be very difficult for dogs with arthritis to navigate. Placing carpet or area rugs will help secure your dog's footing. This can help prevent him from slipping and injuring himself. Glucosamine for dogs

Swimming is a good aerobic exercise and is especially good for arthritis symptom dogs because there is no jarring impact. As swimming is a non-weight bearing activity.

It exercises every muscle of the body without any stress. When swimming, muscles and joints are able to move through a complete range of motion without bearing any weight.

Swimming in warm water has the added benefit of relaxing muscles (specially important for arthritis symptom dogs) and increasing overall blood circulation. Warm water relaxes muscles so the dog will not feel pain when exercising, thus improving joint lubrication. Older dogs have the added benefit of cardiovascular strengthening and weight loss, improving general fitness.

Your dog should use all four legs to doggie paddle. If he paddles with just his front paws, lift his rear legs to help him float. He'll quickly understand that he needs all four of his legs to swim.

Daily, low-impact exercise helps to improve strength and stamina, joint mobility, and stimulates joint cartilage metabolism.

While helping maintain your dog's weight, it also decreases the need for pain-relieving medications.

A Soft Bed. Soft bedding and heated beds can help support the bones and joints, making your pet more comfortable. This can be especially important in thin dogs in which bony prominences are likely to rub on hard surfaces. Some beds are made especially for dogs with arthritis, such as waterbeds, hammock beds, and beds with plenty of extra cushion. Our new Durabed may be right for your older do.

Grooming should not be neglected, especially in the older dog. Arthritic dogs have a difficult time keeping themselves clean, especially in those hard to reach areas. Help your dog stay clean by trimming the hair around the rear end. Brushing will help remove mats and tangles, which can injure delicate older skin. Keep eyes & ears clean, also.

Peace & Quiet. As your dog ages, he may not be as tolerant or patient as he used to be. Sore joints make it difficult for your pet to enjoy rambunctious playful children. Supervise playtime and consider keeping your dog away from very young children. Even parties and holiday time can be distressing for an arthritic dog. He may want to join in the festivities regardless of the discomfort. To reduce joint pain and inflammation, you may want to limit his time as the center of attention.

Massage. Massage can increase flexibility, circulation, calmness and a general sense of wellness. Professional animal massage therapists are available to provide your pet a more thorough treatment.

Weight Loss. Arthritis is more of a problem in obese pets. Weight loss can be beneficial by helping to reduce the workload on the bones and joints.

Exercise. Modest daily exercise can help some dogs. Special care is needed, so it is important to first see your veterinarian, who can recommend an appropriate exercise program. Exercise can strengthen the muscles and ligaments thus reducing the potential and risk of injury.

Supplements. There are many products on the market that can be used in addition to a good diet.

Extra Time. Don't rush a dog with arthritis. It often takes them extra time to walk, climb stairs or get in and out of the car. Support and help them if needed or just give them extra time to get around.

Mary E. Joyce http://www.pet-dog-cat-supply-store.com