Friday, January 30, 2009

Small Dog Clothing

Writen by Grant Carroll

Small dogs are wonderful companions, and they look adorable all dressed up. Due to their less than large stature, many of them need some clothes to keep from shivering to death, however, buying small dogs a wardrobe has become an issue of fashion and pampering. Clothing the small dog is all about assessing their needs and then their style.

What kind of clothing does my little baby need? That's the question on the mind of every doggie parent as they begin shopping. The answer depends of the weather. If it's winter, then they need coats and sweaters to stay warm during outside walks. Also, many dogs are still cold even indoors, so it's a good idea to have an "around the house" sweater. When the warm spring and summer roll around, they can go "naked", but it's still good to get some shirts. Many short haired breeds like Chihuahuas and Min Pins get cold indoors from the air conditioning, so a shirt or light sweater can come in handy. While the outdoors is very warm, a shirt will protect a dog from sunburn. All you have to do is put sun block where there's bare skin. Since skin cancer is the most common cancer among dogs, this is a very important step in prevention.

You can give your little one style by expressing their personality through clothing. One easy and fun way to do this is through message shirts. You've probably seen them in stores or online with messages varying from "I'm cute" to "spank me". There is a huge variety of these shirts available, so enjoy looking around for what best represents your little spunky one. If message shirts are not your thing, then perhaps canine couture is the way to go. Canine couture has been gaining popularity and is now a booming business. People can buy high fashion dog clothes right off runway. The problem is, however, that these fashions often cost much more than the average dog parent is prepared to pay. Still, these fancy styles are quite catching and are made of the best quality, just be sure not to pay too much. Following all of these suggestions can make clothing your small dog a fun and easy experience.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Piroplasmosis Protect Your Dog Well

Writen by Steve John Cowan

Piroplasmosis is one of the diseases, sometimes fatal, most frequently seen in dogs. This disease, which destroys the red cells, is due to a parasite of the blood, transmitted by a tick bite. The treatment is effective on condition it is set up in time, but the complications can be serious.

Which are the symptoms which one can observe?

The dog is laid low, it refuses to take nourishment, vomits and has a strong fever. Its urine takes on an abnormal colouring. The symptoms are not always easy to detect and it is advisable to consult a veterinary surgeon in case of doubts.

How is piroplasmosis transmitted?

Only ticks can transmit this disease. In order to be able to drink the blood of the dog, the tick injects an anticoagulant saliva, which contains the parasites of piroplasmosis. Once in the blood these penetrate in the red cells, multiply there, and make them burst. A dog affected by piroplasmosis is not contagious, to other dogs, to other animals, or to man.

What is the treatment for piroplasmosis?

The treatment is very effective assuming it beings rather quickly.

It is advisable to monitor the appearance of the symptoms well.

According to the stage of evolution of the disease, the veterinary surgeon will set up a treatment program in the form of injections which make it possible to destroy the parasite and of infusion, intended to rehydrate the animal and to fight against the hepatic and renal complications.

The animal will be also transfused to compensate for the lack of red globules.

How to prevent piroplasmosis?

wo techniques exist. First there are pesticides, which is the surest way to etablish real prevention. The product must destroy the tick before it has time to puncture the skin. It is thus necessary that it is poisoned in contact with the dogs coat, in a few minutes. The pesticides are in the shape of collars, pulverizers or pipettes.

The other method is that of vaccination. There is a vaccine which protects from piroplasmosis, but it is not 100% effective and appears very expensive.

For more dog caring tips and suggestions, visit my site at http://webbiz99.com/dogtraining/index.html

Steve Cowan is an Asia based businessman and writer,as well as an international racing driver and full time father.To discover more,visit his blog -What's New Today,Stanley?- at http://webbiz99.com/

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Lemon Tetra

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis

Size: 5cm (2 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Streams of the Amazon basin

Remarks: This fish looks best shoaling in a well planted tank.

Comments: The dorsal fin contains black with a yellow streak on the front edge; the adipose fin is yellow with a black edge; and the long-based anal fin has a bright yellow front and black rear edge. General colouration is greenish yellow with silver belly. Mature males are more intensely coloured. If you want something that's a little different from the normal tetra, this is a good choice to go with. Quite easy to keep and looks good in any aquarium with other small fish!

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This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Shih Tzu Properly Train Your New Shih Tzu Puppy

Writen by Connie Limon

Shih tzu puppy training is very important, whether you are training your first shih tzu puppy or your 20th. Properly training and socializing a shih tzu puppy is vital to making it a valued member of your family and your community.

In some ways training a shih tzu puppy is easier than training an adult or adolescent dog. One reason is that the shih tzu puppy is essentially a "blank slate", untroubled by past training techniques and other issues. In other ways, however, the shih tzu puppy can be more difficult to train than an older shih tzu dog.

One challenge to training a new shih tzu puppy is that shih tzu puppies are more easily distractible than adolescent and adult shih tzu dogs. Everything is new to a shih tzu puppy, and every new experience provides a new chance for distraction. For this reason, it is best to keep training sessions short when working with a shih tzu puppy, and to end each training sessions on a positive note.

It is also important to allow the shih tzu puppy plenty of time to play, and to interact with other shih tzu puppies and shih tzu dogs. Socialization training is vital to making your new shih tzu puppy a good canine citizen, as dog aggression is a growing problem in many areas. A properly socialized shih tzu dog learns how to play properly with other dogs, and overly aggressive play is punished by the other dogs in the play group.

This type of play learning is something that happens among siblings in litters of shih tzu puppies. As the shih tzu puppies play with each other, they learn what is appropriate and what is not. Inappropriate behavior, such as hard biting or scratching, is punished by the other shih tzu puppies, by the mother shih tzu dog, or both.

Unfortunately, many shih tzu puppies are removed from their mothers and sold or adopted before this socialization has fully occurred. Therefore, shih tzu puppy play sessions are a very important part of any shih tzu puppy training session. Most good shih tzu puppy preschool training programs provide time in each session for this type of dog interaction.

Introducing your shih tzu puppy to new experiences and new locations is also an important part of shih tzu puppy training. Teaching your shih tzu dog to be obedient and responsive, even in the face of many distractions, is very important when training shih tzu dogs and shih tzu puppies.

One great way to socialize your shih tzu puppy both to new people and new dogs is to take it on a trip to your local pet store. Many major pet store chains, and some independent ones as well, allow pet parents to bring their furry children, and these stores can be great places for shih tzu puppies to get used to new sights, sounds and smells. Of course you will want to make sure the store allows pets before heading over.

It is important for shih tzu puppy owners to structure their pet's environment so that the shih tzu puppy is rewarded for good behaviors and not rewarded for others. One good example of this is jumping on people. Many people inadvertently reward this behavior because it can be cute. While it is true that jumping can be cute for a 2 pound shih tzu puppy, it will not be so cute when that puppy has grown into a 10 pound shih tzu dog.

Instead of rewarding the shih tzu puppy for jumping, try rewarding it for sitting instead. This type of positive reinforcement will result in a well behaved adult shih tzu dog that is a valued member of both the family and the community at large.

This type of reinforcement can also be used in potty training the new shih tzu puppy. For instance, teaching a shih tzu puppy to use a unique surface such as gravel or asphalt is a good technique. The theory is that the shih tzu puppy will associate this surface with going potty, and therefore be reluctant to use other surfaces (like your kitchen carpet for instance) as a potty.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder in Indiana. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Monday, January 26, 2009

Herp Hunting In The Northern Territory Australia

Writen by Chris M Jones

Appeared in 'Reptile Care' Volume 3, Issue 3

The northern territory is well known for being 'the real bush'. It has a population of less than 200'000 people, over 90% of which live in Government areas. These government areas only cover 5% of the Northern Territory, which leaves over 1.2 million square kilometres virtually deserted. This area is nearly five times the size of the UK! As you can now imagine, this is an incredibly large and diverse landscape! There are approximately 300 species of reptile, and 50 species of amphibian in the Northern Territory. Slightly more diverse one might say, than the UK's species count of only 6 reptiles and 6 amphibians!

I spent the entire year of 2005 travelling around Australia. I went to every State, every major city, drove across the longest straight road in the world, twice, and travelled the complete circumference of this beautiful country. But the Northern Territory was in my books, by far the most fantastic place I have ever been. I spent 3 months in Darwin, and several more weeks travelling around the NT, going as far south as Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru in Aboriginal terms). I knew the place was for me when, only a few days after I drove through, I saw my first wild Black Headed Python (Aspidites melanocephalus) crossing the road. What a shock! This was the first snake I had seen in Australia and I had already driven thousands of kilometres. I nearly ran it over, but swerved suddenly, missing it by millimetres! I turned around and went back, moving it off the road before the 50 metre oncoming road train ploughed straight through us all! It was a beautiful, 2 metre female in perfect condition. It was different seeing such an animal in the wild, after seeing many of them in friends' collections, it did not compare to the wonderful feeling of seeing her out in the bush and lending her a helping hand getting across the road. This was definitely for me! I knew there was plenty more where she came from, and I would definitely find them!

During my time in the Northern Territory, I spent 3 months working at 'Crocodylus Park'. A crocodile research and education centre, home to approximately 8'000 saltwater crocodiles and a number of other crocodilian and animal species. This was certainly an experience of a lifetime. Not only to work with such a large number of large crocodiles, but also to meet a whole group of brilliant ozzies! Myself and my girlfriend Eirlys stayed with an Australian couple; Cade & Holly. Cade knew the area and had been working at the park for a couple of years. He told me of a place he goes to on a regular occasion. He said to me; "We drive out after the sun sets, about 45 minutes out of town and just cruise for snakes." Well, that just sounded too easy for me, but I definitely wanted to give it a go!

Only a few days later, Cade had organised a few of his mates to join us on a night out 'herping'. We set off in convoy, Cade and 3 others in his car, closely followed by Maddy's car with me in the back and another couple of people! 45 Minutes later and we arrive at Fogg Dam. This place wasn't what I expected, it didn't look so amazing. We started driving very slowly along this road, which soon turned quite narrow, with a 2 metre drop off either side into dense, wet marshland. This was however, the dry season. In the wet season this road is not even visible, being completely submerged in water. Only a few seconds after driving along, comes our first catch of the night; a Yellow-Bellied Water Python (Liasis mackloti)! This was very closely followed by another, then another, then another. Within half an hour we had picked 14 water pythons off the road, even catching 2 or 3 at a time! Of course, all of these were released straight back into the marshes. I certainly had second thoughts about this place, it was amazing!

After our successful water python round-up, we took the time to sit by the road and see what we could spot. Out came our big torches, shining into the marsh either side of the road. The eyes of at least 20 crocodiles shone back at us. Most were the freshwater crocodiles (Crocodylus johnstoni), but some eyes were larger and further apart, these were the bigger, saltwater or 'estuarine' crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus). I had seen this on TV many times, but it was quite different to see this naturally. I must admit, even working with crocodiles all day; knowing that we were surrounded by hundreds of them was certainly a scary thought! The night was topped off by a find I was desperate for, a Northern Death Adder (Acanthophis praelongus)! An absolutely beautiful one too, camouflaged so well into the road we nearly turned it into another piece of 'road-kill'. This was a successful night!

I later found out, 'Fogg Dam' has the largest concentration of predatory animals in the world! The water pythons on their own, represent the largest density of predatory species in such a concentrated area. Their prey is the dusky rat, which are said to be in numbers of 15'000 per square kilometre. From these numbers of prey, it is easy to understand their success.

Darwin is a small capital city, with just over 100'000 people, over half the population of the entire Northern Territory. You only have to drive an hour out of the city centre to reach Litchfield National Park; a 1'500 square kilometre oasis of Northern Territory habitat, including one of the most famous termite mound spectacles in the world, a number of amazing water falls, rock formations and forested areas. A couple of hours due East is the even larger Kakadu National Park, covering nearly 20'000 square kilometres of land, nearly the same size as Ireland! This is one of the most famous National Parks in the world and it certainly should be. Home to thousands of species of flora & fauna.

It was nice to get out to Litchfield National Park on weekends, being only a short drive away. I went several times during my stay in the NT. It has an abundance of wildlife visible during the day, but at night it really comes alive! Litchfield is famous for it's Magnetic Termite Mounds, so called because they are all north – south facing. The structures are approximately 3metres tall and built so that the narrowest edge is facing the extremely intense sun for the midday heat. With so many termites, come so many predators. Many species of skinks and other small lizards are common here. The Northern Territory is home to approximately 100 species of skink, many rely on small insects such as termites. With so many small lizards, come many reptiles that feed upon these lizards, including the Burtons Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis). This is one of the larger species of legless lizard, and has the unusual, snake-like characteristic of being able to un-hinge it's jaw to allow an easy passage for their larger food items. These are very common in Litchfield, and I was fortunate enough to see many. All of which varied in colour.

Orange-naped snakes (Furina ornata) are plentiful in the Northern Territory, although they are not seen nearly as often as other species. I was lucky enough to spot this guy slithering across the road one night. My tour guide for the night was Maddy, one of Cade's mates. He had been herping for years around the Territory, and was familiar with the different species of reptiles you might find on the different nights, at certain times of the year. He thought I must be a good luck charm, as this was the first Orange Naped Snake he had ever caught here!

I have dealt with hundreds of species of snake in the last few years, but I really wanted to get a taste for the 'lethal' stuff. The Northern Territory was certainly the place to do it; and at this point I had already encountered a Death Adder in the wild. That though, wasn't enough. The Coastal Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) was a rare sight and although I hoped to catch a glimpse of one, the opportunity never came. I was more fortunate however with the Brown Snakes! I saw 2 Western Brown snakes (Pseudonaja nuchalis) within a few kilometres of each other in Litchfield National Park. Unfortunately though, my one and only sight of a wild King Brown (Pseudonaja australis), was a juvenile victim of a car tyre. It had only just happened, we had passed the same spot just half an hour earlier, yet on our way back through, the snake had appeared, dead.

A number of reptile and insect species can be found in and around the Darwin area. While living in Karama, we had a number of visitors to our backyard. Green Tree Snakes (Dendralaphis punctulatus), Two-Lined Dragons (Diporiphora bilineata), Striped Tree Dragons (Amphibolorus temporalis), Australian House Gecko's (Gehyra australis), Asian House Gecko's (Hemidactylus frenatus), Garden Skinks (Carlia gracilis and Carlia munda)and Mertens' Water Monitor's (Varanus mertensi). Huntsman and Redback spiders are also common in households and gardens.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Sunday, January 25, 2009

The Bernese Mountain Dog Draft Dog Extraordinaire

Writen by Michael Russell

The Berner as he is commonly spoken of is a dog that has recently become one of the favorite breeds in the United States because of his characteristics of moderate size, beauty and good natured temperament. He is a member of the Working Group of the American Kennel Club. His striking good looks and exceptionally stable temperament have contributed to his popularity, which has burgeoned since he was admitted into the registry in 1990.

The Bernese Mountain Dog comes from the large family of Swiss dogs of black and tan coloration and mastiff origin which dominate the Alpine regions of Central Europe. These dogs seem to have origins in the original Molloser dogs which were transported into Europe by the Roman Legions. Many of these dogs were used by the Romans as drover dogs and others were considered to be war dogs of massive power and formidable appearance. The Bernese Mountain Dog is most probably a representative of the former type, a dog which was used to drive the flocks of cattle and oxen and also as a carting dog or draft dog. Another common name for the Bernese Mountain Dog is the Berner Sennenhund.

The Berner is always a tri-colored dog. The base coat is black with rust and white markings. Symmetry of markings is important. Rust should appear over each eye and on the cheeks reaching to the corner of the mouth. Also there should be rust on each side of the chest, on all four legs and under the tail. The muzzle should have a white blaze. There should be a white mark or blaze on the chest and this should be in the shape of a cross. The tip of the tail is white. There should be white on the feet but not extending higher than the pasterns. The Bernese Mountain dog has a medium length to the coat, which is a double coat and is naturally weather resistant. The hair should be straight to slightly wavy. The entire picture of the well groomed Berner is quite striking with the sharp contrasts in color and markings, especially since this is a coat that has a natural shine. This is a dog who appears stocky to a certain degree, but not overly large. His working gait is that of a slow trot but he should be capable of faster movement when necessary.

Berners achieved popularity on the farms and holdings of the mountain people as strong dogs that were willing to pull carts and work side by side with their human companions without complaint and with happy enthusiasm for the jobs to which they were entrusted. In the United States and Great Britain the Berner has achieved the same sort of popularity, not because he is used as a working dog so much but because his temperament makes him a popular family pet. The temperament of the Bernese Mountain Dog should be one that is loyal and protective to his family but accepting of strangers and gracious, never aggressive. He has great intelligence and fortitude, preferring to have a job to do and working with endurance and stability for many hours.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Breeding Your Goldfish

Writen by Dane Stanton

If you are keen on breeding Goldfish, you should know that it's not an easy task. It will take a lot of patience, a lot of space in the tank and quite a bit of money too. Don't get into breeding if you think it's going to be profitable, because it isn't! Breeding goldfish is best left to a professional but if you still want to breed them, here's how to begin:

Decide on the breed: You also must decide before hand what variety of goldfish you want to breed. Ideally, if you are a beginner you should decide on breeding a good quality single tail type fish like the comet.

Pair and choose the breeds: You must choose high quality goldfish to breed high quality goldfish. The goldfish you choose should be two-four years. A good quality goldfish would be assessed according to its finnage, body shape, size and color. They should be at least 4-6 inches or larger and very healthy. It's better to breed with younger fish as the older ones might produce eggs that are deformed and infertile.

* The ideal female goldfish would be heavy at the rear, protruding on the left part of her body and her anal area would be soft.

* The ideal male goldfish would be a great chaser and there should be signs of his breeding tubercles on his gills and pectoral fins. Begin with two females and three males. The idea is to have two males for every female.

Time to breed Here's the time plan to breed goldfish –

* You would need to plan a year ahead in the months of July or August. This is when most breeders sell their surplus fish at cheaper rates. If you skip this period than would find it hard to find a good breeding quality pair of goldfish.

* During the winter you must feed the fish and help them build enough body mass to last the winter and be ready for spawning in the early spring. By October or November, your fish would need less food and this is the time to not only clean the fish but also separate the males from the females.

Cleaning the fish: The solution you need to clean the fish is one measure of Terramycin, 80 drops of Formaldehyde and 6 drops of copper sulphate in four gallons of water. The solution should be at the right temperature and the fish should get enough oxygen to breathe. Allow the goldfish to remain in this solution for 20 minutes and then move them to a separate container of clean water while you prepare a spawning tank.

* Make sure you make the new tank a natural spawning area with bushy natural plants, artificial fibers or spawning mops and coconut fibers, all materials that can receive the spawn. Goldfish need such props for spawning.

Size of the spawning tank: You will need at least a tank that can hold 20 gallons of water. If the fish were bigger than you would need a bigger tank.

* Now that the fish are clean and the tank is clean too, do not feed the fish anything for the next two months except some amount of live food like insect larvae,worms, and brine shrimp. This preparation will help the females develop healthy and the males, milt that is needed to fertilize the eggs.

* If the winters are too cold in your area, you can consider using a heater.

* Watch the male goldfish developing breeding tubercles that look like white pimples on their gill covers and the pectoral fins.

* Watch the females become rounder body as it fills up with roe or eggs. How do you spot the spawning moment?

* Spawning usually happens in the early morning.

* The colors of all the goldfish will look brighter then before.

* The fish would group together while swimming.

* The males will be chasing the females at random.

* Finally the active males zero in on one particular female and chase her more than before.

* The chase will intensify with the male getting aggressive and pushing against the female goldfish till she ejects her eggs. * As the eggs are out the male will fertilize them by depositing milt over the eggs.

* The eggs will fall through the water, landing on plants. They stay in the same spot till they hatch.

* The spawning may begin again after some days of rest.

Point of note: Goldfish eat their eggs. Of the 10,000 eggs that are laid in one spawning session, hardly any will be left if the fish are not removed. So once the eggs are laid, move the parents back to another tank.

Dane Stanton - www.goldfish-secrets.com

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit http://www.goldfish-secrets.com for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*

Friday, January 23, 2009

If Humans Are Merely Animals Why Do They Rule The Surface Of The Planet

Writen by Lance Winslow

Many zoologists and research biological scientists believe that humans are nothing more than really fancy designed animals. That is to say more adapted and highly evolved than most all other species in the animal kingdom. Mankind indeed has conquered the top of the food chain yet if humans are merely animals, how come the species is so successful?

Recently this topic came up with the principle investigator of the "Why Are Humans Unique Project" in an online think tank who stated;

"We could establish value boundaries beforehand from and establish our base model in determining and categorize the samples into there appropriate groups. I believe this would provide us with a sufficient process to measure whether or not each species is in the same grouping as the other."

Another think tanker in the group was fascinated by all this and then stated; "Well this makes more sense, as the animal groupings each have particular characteristics that humans share, but humans have nearly all the capabilities whereas each animals species has one, two, three or so. With only a few species like Dolphins, Elephants, Pigs, Guerillas, Chimpanzees, Canines, etc. with many and very similar to humans. I would call these higher order mammals."

Yet in such a classification of the animal kingdom, it seems all this is available on the Discovery Channel, Animal Channel, Science Channel, NOVA and Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Even Encarta has charts of these things along with the "Time Life Series" which I have read all thru cover to cover. Most Zoology Text books I have perused do to.

The head researcher for the project also stated; "I feel this procedure has a very good chance at providing the argument in question and other similar debates with a valuable data set."

The rest of the think tank members seemed to be inline with all this and one gentleman stated; "I agree but it really seems all this has been done already and I have found fault with little of it. Some of the old stuff like animals do not make tools or use tools and those such thoughts have been dispelled now."

What are your thoughts on humans and their uniqueness? What have you considered about your own species identity? Have you considered any of these concepts? What do you think of the "Why Are Humans Unique Project?" Consider all this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Dog Of The Desert The Canaan

Writen by Michael Russell

The Canaan Dog is sometimes mistakenly believed to be a pariah dog which roams throughout the Middle East, however this is incorrect. The Canaan Dog is a true breed which has survived in the desert for more than 2000 years. In the 1930s the Israelis began a program of re-domestication of these dogs, recognizing their potential as guard dogs to guard their settlements . Their history as a desert breed has contributed strength and endurance to the genetic makeup, to say nothing of the fact that they are relatively disease free. Their bodies have developed in much the same way as the Arabian Horse, strong lungs and resistance to extremes of weather are part of their heritage.

The Israelis have been careful to preserve these characteristics and have also been careful not to mix in any other type of dog into the breeding program. On occasion they do bring in more of the Canaan Dogs from the wild deserts to continue to improve the domesticated stock. This is more difficult as the spread of civilization has made the existence of these desert dogs more tenuous and there are fewer places where they can still be found living in the wild.

The Canaan Dog can be any shade of tawny desert yellow or tan with white markings and also black with white markings. The coat is double and fairly short. Ears are prick, the tail is long and curves over the back when excited. They are of medium size, with surprising strength and agility, possessing great endurance and lung power. The dogs readily adjusted to civilization and are loyal and very affectionate family pets. Their major use is that of a dog guard that will protect outlying settlements from predators and give warning when strangers come. They are also useful as herding dogs for the flocks of goats. The Canaan Dog does not require harsh training methods and adapts to family living easily.

This is a comparatively rare breed and has only recently made an appearance in the Dog Show Circuit in the United States. They are classified as members of the Herding Group. Their numbers are gradually increasing. They are a relatively easy care dog and are happy as an urban resident or on the farm. Owners of the Canaan dog have found that they are generally not stubborn, are quite intelligent and make very good pets. They should show reserve with strangers but have proven themselves to be affectionate and loyal. The American Kennel club describes their temperament as "alert, vigilant, devoted and docile with his family".

Factors which contribute to the usefulness of this dog as a family pet are their easy care coat and their general good health. Owners of Canaans can expect that these dogs will present few vet bills in comparison to other breeds! They are known to be easy to train without stubborn tendencies or hyperactive traits. They are inquisitive and because of their history of survival of the fittest are independent thinkers but appear to have a great deal of common sense.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Gps Tracking For Mans Best Friend

Writen by Simon Wyryzowski

To say that our pets are our best friends is an understatement. There are many people in this world who see their pets as life long companions, and even an integral of their family. How would you feel if your pet has run away, or perhaps has gotten lost somewhere outdoors? It would make your heart beat fast, palms sweaty and extremely anxious wouldn't it? After all there is not another pooch or kitty that can ever replace the special personality that your pet has.

GPS or global positioning systems can help give you peace of mind in knowing when your pet has crossed outside the safety zone of the backyard, or somewhere in your neighborhood. Other scenarios aside from domestic issues are the kinds where you take your pets on vacation with you, or go hunting with. Why take chances and lose sight of one of the most valuable members of your family?

GPS tracking devices will not substitute common sense and vigilance in watching over your pets, but rather help complement and reduce the chances of your pet running off by accident. These small moments can add up to lots of time, emotional investment, and spiritual drain after a while.

Consider several types of GPS tracking devices, from those that allow you to program safety zones which alert you when your pet goes out of bounds so to speak, waterproof and weatherproof models if you live in temperate zones, and advanced features such as heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature to see if your pet is truly 100 percent safe from the inside out.

It is up to you as the owner and caretaker of your pet to decide what features are necessary and which are not. You will find that GPS tracking devices whether for people, pets, or objects, are relatively easy to setup and are getting simpler everyday. What are you waiting for? Your pet deserves the best!

Run to our site for GPS tracking services for people, pets, and objects. Also discover a range of car tracking device products to give you additional peace of mind.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

The Vizsla A Hungarian National Treasure

Writen by Michael Russell

The Hungarian Vizsla is pronounced "veeshla". This tawny red dog of medium build is known for its skills as a hunting dog and its excellent trainability. However it must be trained with a certain degree of gentleness and understanding, this is a sensitive dog and will not take to harsh punishment. The Hungarian Vizsla is a dog that works "close to the gun" and will not range far, it is a silent hunter and does not scare up the game too soon. This hunter was bred mostly to go after birds but is also a good rabbit dog.

I have personally had acquaintances who own Vizslas and have come into contact with several of them at dog shows. The ones that I have known are quite active and highly intelligent. They love to play and will gladly retrieve and give chase, a large yard is a necessity. The correct temperament is one of willingness and friendliness to strangers and this does mean that the Vizsla puppy must be socialized at an early age. Without socialization a Vizsla can be overly shy and this in turn can lead to aggression. Care should be taken if the dog is to be used for hunting, that it is trained early to the sound of the gun.

The Coat is tawny red and quite short. A brisk rubbing with a towel or a soft brush is often the only care that needs to be done. Of course nails should be kept regularly trimmed. The ears, although lop, are fairly short and stay clean. The tail is usually bobbed at about 1/3 the length. The head is broad at the skull with a clean look to the muzzle. The Vizsla is a pointer and will freeze in the point with one front leg lifted when it comes on the birds. This dog is quite well balanced in looks and is a beautiful sight to see when it is "on point".

Adult dogs should be x-rayed for hip dysplasia before being used for breeding. Epilepsy is a problem associated with this breed also and there can be skin problems and allergies. A dog which is given the chance to exercise will not become obese, but these dogs are "chow hounds" and will become overly fat quickly if allowed to eat all they want, especially if they don't get adequate exercise.

Vizslas need a close association with people and unlike many hunting breeds they do not make a good kennel dog. These dogs are what one would call highly responsive to training that is positive in nature. They are "willing workers" and will respond well to praise. Whether it be as a show dog or an obedience dog or a hunting dog, they are best when they are not bored. If left alone for long periods of time they can get into a lot of mischief in a house and a yard is important if they can not be with their family the majority of the day.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Animals

Monday, January 19, 2009

How To Raise A Healthy Kitten

Writen by Katharine Logan

Selecting a Kitten

It is best to choose your kitten from the whole litter, choose the frisky playful, friendly kitten that is confident and happy to approach you rather than the one that hangs back and is shy. The best time to take your kitten home is between 7 and 8 weeks old. Some pedigree breeders like to keep the kittens until 12 weeks old so they can have their initial vaccinations. Some things you have to look for when choosing a new kitten or cat are:

  • The ears should be clean and no unpleasant smells.
  • White blue eyed cats are prone to deafness (all cats eyes are blue at this age) Test this by making sounds outside its field of vision.
  • Eyes should be clear and bright with no sings of weeping.
  • Gums should be pink (not red) and teeth should be white.
  • The coat should be clean and unmated with no fleas or flaky skin.
  • Check under the tail – this area should be spotless in a healthy cat.
  • Setting in your new Kitten or cat

    It is probably best to have a proper pet carrier to take your new pet home in – to avoid extra stress. At let your new kitten or cat come out of the carrier at its own time. It will need time to settle down, so make sure it has fresh drinking water and a little food also make sure it can find its way to its bed and litter tray – then leave it alone for a little while. Make sure that children behave gently and quietly around the kitten, kittens need peace and quiet to sleep as well as needing laytime. It is best to keep your kitten confined indoors for a week or so and accompany your kitten on its first trip outside – continue to go out side with your kitten for the next few trips. This will give the kitten a sense of security and encourage it to come when you call. Your new kitten should integrate quite well with other pets, make sure that you can introduce them slowly. Some pets will integrate at all – make sure you keep small mammals and birds away from your kitten as their natural instincts will take over. Once your kitten has overcome its initial fears it will amuse it self for hours with very cheap simple toys like ping pong balls, cardboard rolls and small stuffed animals.

    What Equipment your cat or kitten need

    A bed: a cardboard box with a blanket or cushion in it – makes an ideal bed for a kitten as the kitten grows you may like to find a more permanent replacement, such as wooden box or a covered bed. You may like to keep in mind that it should ideally be washable when choosing a bed. Place the bed in a quiet, draught free, warm spot.
    Grooming tools: – A brush - preferably with natural bristles is very useful for grooming any cat – for long haired cats you will also need a wire toothed metal comb and a pair of rounded scissors to cut out any tangles. A pair of feline claw clippers will complete your pussy cats grooming set.
    A collar or harness: Your cat should wear a collar complete with an identification disk. The collar must be elasticized in case it gets caught – for example on a branch whilst climbing a tree. Some owners train their cats to go for walks on a harness or lead.
    Toys: There are a huge range of toys available for cats making play of exercising fun and providing stimulation. Many stuffed toys contain catnip – this herb also called catmint appeals to many cats, creating an apparent sense of wellbeing – this lasts for approximately 15 minutes.

    A scratching post

    – Cats love to scratch. Scratching serves a couple of purposes – firstly it keeps the claws neat and trim – it also marks the cats' territory as other cats will see the marks and smell the scent. The cat has glands between the toes that release this scent as the cat scratches.
    A scratching post is the best solution – but the cat will need to be taught to use it from the very beginning. This will save your furniture, avoid using a carpet covered scratching post as the pet cat may see the house carpet as an extension of the scratching post. If the cat ha selected a piece of furniture where it like to scratch – by covering it with plastic for a while the cat will stop scratching there. Cats do not like the feel of plastic.

    A litter tray

    – A litter tray will be needed when your kitten first comes home and if you intend to leave the cat in at night. Choose a tray that is deep enough and roomy enough for your cat to turn around in easily. There are numerous varieties of kitty litter available – choose one that suits you. Also a covered litter tray is a great idea as it keeps the smell and the mess inside also creating a more private spot for your cat.

    A Cat flap

    – Cat flaps are a great idea to allow the cat to go in and out as it pleases. You must be careful however as other cats may also come in. check what flaps are available and choose the one that suits your needs. A cat is quite easily trained to use a cat flap – prop the flap open at first and call the cat through form one side than the other. When it has mastered this, lower the flap a little and use the same procedure – continue to do this until you can close the flap altogether.

    Feeding your kitten

    Ask the breeder or pet shop for a diet sheet so that you can continue feeding them the same diet and quantities. This will avoid you giving it too much food or an over rich diet which can cause tummy upsets. You should also find out meal times.

    Food and feeding your cat

    There are three types of cat food available commercially –moist food, semi – moist food and dry food. Cats need meat or fish everyday to be healthy.
  • Moist food as in the canned varieties is preferred by most cats because it closely resembles fresh meat. It also has the vitamins and minerals that the cat needs. How ever canned foods will not last long once served and it is best to take the food away after an hour to encourage your cat to eat its food in a single sitting rather that picking at it all day long.
  • Semi – moist food usually comes in a sachet. It keeps well in a bowl without drying out or loosing its texture and tastes good to cats.
  • Dry food contains very little moisture so it is very important to have fresh drinking water available.
  • Establish a feeding routine where you feed your cat once or twice a day – at the same place and the same time. Leave the food out for an hour then take it away. This will help to make your cat a healthy eater and not pick at the food all day.

    Worming

  • The most common worms that affect cats are round worms and tape worms. Cats must be de-wormed regularly. Your vet will give you specific advice on worming products.
  • Following these simple steps will ensure you, your family and the newest edition to the family will have a happy, healthy and rewarding time together.

    (c) Katharine Logan 2005 http://www.pet-library.com

    Katharine Logan is author and content manager for Pet-library.com She conducts research on specified subjects to help people with day to day issues. For more click on:http://www.pet-library.com

    Sunday, January 18, 2009

    Syrian Vs Dwarf Hamsters What Should I Get For My Family

    Writen by Andrew Markison

    As pets go hamsters are fairly easy to take care of. Hamsters require no walking, are not particularly dirty or stinky, they are small and don't take up much space and are generally inexpensive. Hamsters are also fairly hearty animals and can be a very good pet for a child or a family with several children. There are however, two distinct choices when it comes to adopting a hamster for your family, and that is the dwarf hamster and the syrian hamster. I spoke with Ken Brocx, the founder of Hamsterific.com, an authoritative hamster and small pet website about this question and what his recommendations would be to someone considering adopting a hamster but not knowing exactly which route is best for his/her family.

    Andy Markison:
    Thanks Ken for taking the time to speak to us. First of all, let's assume a family with a young child or children (let's assume around seven or eight years of age for this example) is considering adopting a hamster or hamsters for their home. Would you personally recommend either a dwarf hamster or a syrian hamster in this case?

    Ken Brocx:
    Typically I would recommend a syrian hamster for younger children. Dwarf hamsters are smaller which can make them harder to handle. Also, if a dwarf manages to get loose they are faster than syrians and thus harder to catch. Syrians tend to be more docile if they are properly raised.

    AM:
    Syrian hamsters are supposed to be solitary once they are weaned, but that's not the case with dwarf hamsters is it?

    KB:
    No. Most dwarf hamsters prefer some company, but that means more space. That can be a problem since many commercial cages are too small for more than one hamster, even a dwarf hamster.

    AM:
    Is there any reason to purchase a dwarf hamster solitarily? Or would it be better to adopt two dwarfs rather than one?

    KB:
    In the wild dwarf hamsters live in colonies, so I prefer to keep them that way. A dwarf hamster on it's own will need a lot of attention to keep it from getting depressed.

    AM:
    If you initially purchase a dwarf hamster and later wish to introduce a second (or third) dwarf hamster would that be possible or are you asking for conflicts with such an introduction?

    KB:
    It depends on the particular dwarf hamster and on how long they have been alone. If a dwarf hamster has been on it's own for more than a month I find it is very difficult to introduce a new cagemate. Young dwarf hamsters will accept a new hamster much more readilly than an older dwarf hamster. Also dwarf hamsters tend to socialize better with siblings than with strange or unfamiliar hamsters.

    AM:
    Are dwarf hamsters generally less hearty creatures than syrians?

    KB:
    Both dwarf and syrian hamsters are very hardy creatures. Dwarf hamsters have been domesticated for a much shorter time than syrians, and because of that there has been less of an opportunity for them to become inbred. Inbreeding can cause many problems with the health of any breed of hamster. In syrians this often results in a hamster that is difficult to tame. In dwarf hamsters it is very common to see diabetes in inbred pups.

    AM:
    What kind of equipment would you recommend someone about to adopt a hamster get for their hamster's new home?

    KB:
    Hamsters need a constant supply of clean water, a food bowl that's heavy enough that it won't tip over when a hamster is crawling on it, a wheel for exercise and a "nest" where they can feel secure. Wheels aren't just toys. A hamster in the wild can run several miles a night marking it's territory and looking for food and the only way we can duplicate that in a confined space is a wheel. In the wild hamsters live in burrows underground. For nesting a hamster needs a place where it feels it can retreat from danger. A hamster without a nest will feel insecure and nervous.

    AM:
    What are the life spans of dwarfs and syrian hamsters?

    KB:
    Dwarfs usually live 2-4 years depending on breed, living conditions and genetic disposition. Syrians live about 2-3 years.

    AM:
    What would you suggest someone look for when purchasing or adopting a hamster?

    KB:
    The most important things are the hamsters health and personality. The color, long hair and pretty eyes won't matter much if you have a sick hamster. Look for clean and dry fur, especially around the butt of the hamster, stressed hamsters can get Wet Tail, which is a deadly type of diarrhea. Wet Tail can spread to surrounding cages and it can be very difficult to sterilize an area after an outbreak. Personality is very important, too. If you pick an outgoing hamster that doesn't mind being held you're probably going to have a much easier time taming and making friends with him or her.

    AM:
    Is there a reason to adopt a hamster(s) from a breeder rather than a pet store?

    KB:
    Professional breeders usually take great care in ensuring their hamsters are not inbred. Inbreeding can result in many health and personality problems. Many pet stores buy from these same breeders, although some may just let their hamsters breed in the store leading to rampant inbreeding and hamsters with poor health. Also, just because a person has lots of hamsters and sells them does not mean they are a quality professional breeder. Don't forget to check your local shelters, too. Animal shelters often have hamsters that need good homes.

    AM:
    Is the diet of the syrian significantly different than that of a dwarf? I know, for example, that giving dwarf hamsters fruit that may be high in sugar could be problematic because dwarfs may be more likely to become diabetic.

    KB:
    Other than that, syrians and dwarfs have similar diets.

    AM:
    What is "heat" exactly? It's related to nuts in some way isn't it or is it related to other types of foods as well? And does "heat" affect a syrian and dwarf the same way?

    KB:
    Well, there are two types of "heat". "Heat" can be the term for when a female hamster comes into season, but you are talking about the condition that affects hamsters that eat too many fatty foods. That type of "heat" is usually caused by an owner who wants to feed their hamster a treat, usually sunflower seeds, and goes overboard. Too much oil, like that in sunflower seeds, can cause a hamster's metabolism to speed up and cause them to lose hair. That's "heat" and I've only seen it in dwarf hamsters.

    AM:
    Any last words, warnings, recommendations or other thoughts in general that you'd like to share with someone who is interested in adopting a hamster?

    KB:
    Health and personality are the most important things in buying a new hamster, buy the biggest home for your hamster you can, never put two syrian hamsters together, and play with your hamster as often as you can!

    Interview with Ken Brocx, founder of Hamsterific.com an authoritative website on hamsters and other small pets.

    Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, http://www.zapgraphix.com/, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

    Saturday, January 17, 2009

    Is The Bulldog The Right Dog Breed For You

    Writen by Andy Matthews

    The Bulldog was classified as a breed as far back as medieval times. Developed in Great Britain for its tenacity and power to attack and kill bulls in the arena, it has subsequently evolved, through selective breeding, in to the affectionate and loyal dog loved by so many owners today.

    The American Kennel Club has classified the Bulldog in the Non-Sporting Group. He weighs in at around 44 to 55 pounds and reaches 12 to 16 inches in height. You can't mistake the squat, compact body, massive head, and large jaws, for any other breed. Powerful is the word that instantly comes to mind. But, gaze in to those dark, gentle eyes and you realise that your dealing with a big softy really.

    These dogs make ideal pets for apartment owners. They are definetly an indoors breed. Perhaps, they are not the most energetic of dogs, but they will still enjoy a short stroll in the morning and perhaps a leisurely walk alongside you in the evening. The Bulldog has one mission in life--and that is to be your loyal companion.

    Like any breed, these dogs have flaws. Living with a Bulldog you could be excused from thinking that your living in a frat house. Snoring, drooling, and quite frequent passing of gas is the norm. But you will find that you will excuse these sweet natured dogs almost anything.

    Bulldogs are powerful, and can be willful. So, it would be wise of you to start training your dog from 8 weeks of age. Although they are not the quickest of learners, they love human attention, and fortunately are eager to please their owners. Try obedience classes, new people and strange dogs, will help to socialize your puppy far quicker than a traditional approach.

    Bulldogs, in common with most dogs, love their food. Because of their dislike of exercise, obesity is quite common in this breed, so you will need to be vigilant about the portions that you feed your dog. Hip dysplasia and eye problems should also be watched for.

    They can suffer from breathing problems, so you should never walk them using a choke collar. A dog harness will prevent any damage to their already small windpipes. New owners need to be particularly careful in warm weather as this dog breed is prone to heatstroke.

    Having a very short coat the Bulldog needs just a quick brushing through with a good bristle brush once or twice a week, to remove the loose hair and dirt. However, the wrinkles on their face require careful cleaning with a damp cloth every day. Without this regular maintenance your dog could develop a nasty skin infection.

    The Bulldog can be a loving family pet, and a loyal companion. So, if your a bit of a couch potato, and you don't mind a dog that loves attention. Then, this could be the right dog breed for you.

    Andy Matthews is the best friend of Suki, a 2 year old Cocker Spaniel, who has tirelessly built from scratch http://www.top-dogs-names.com. Check it out it's kind of unique!

    Friday, January 16, 2009

    How To Make A Smooth Move With Your Pet Moving With Exotic Pets

    Writen by Alex Kazaryan

    A lot is written how to move with dogs, cats or even fish. But what if your beloved ones are far more exotic and unusual than other people's pets, don't they need some special and accordingly unusual care during the move? If you are the lucky owner of, say, a snake or a hamster here are few suggestion for your smooth with them:

    The first thing to remember when moving reptiles is to keep them moist. It can be achieved by putting a damp blanket inside a moving container for your pet. Reptiles can be packed in boxes, venomous snakes should be be double boxed. Make holes in boxes to maintain good ventilation during the move. Make the inside of the box soft for your pet by putting their foam panels, crumpled paper and pieces of cloth. Mark the box with both common and scientific names of your reptile. Be sure to write "live cargo", "this side up" and "keep at room temperature ( 70-75F)" if you'll be shipping your pet. The main danger of shipping your pet reptile is changes of temperature; a reptile can't survive in too cold or too hot surroundings and it's hardly avoidable during the move.

    One of the convenient ways to move your reptile long distance is by overnight postal service, though USPS won't guarantee live delivery; they might be only liable if the box in which you were moving your pet would have been damaged, but if your beloved one baked or freezed to death you would get nothing. This method of shipping is very common for moving turtles in cushioned, insolated boxes with air holes. Nowadays, moving reptiles by airlines has become difficult due to people who were careless for shipping regulations and caused numerous accidents with their pets. Delta Dash (Delta Airline's priority cargo service) and American Airline's Priority Parcel service used to accept reptiles properly packed and clearly labelled. When moving your reptile by car don't leave it alone overnight, always take it into motel where you'll be stopping, if its pet friendly, of course, to soak your pet in a bath.

    When moving small mammals like mice, gerbils, guinea pigs and hamsters, it's better to use their normal container and move them in your car. Take the water and food out of their container and use rest areas to water and feed your pets. Maintain comfortable temperature - don't park the car in the sunlight; remember whatever temperature is comfortable for you is comfortable for your beloved ones.

    You also can ship your exotic pets abroad, provided they are not listed in CITES. You will need to fill out US Fish & Wildlife certificate before shipping your pets. You'll also need to provide the list of animals you're shipping with their common and scientific names and mark it on the shipping container. Also you'' need to contact your airline, that transports animals, for example Delta, to find out the procedures they demand. And make sure your pets pass Wildlife Inspection Port. Provided you took care of everything mentioned above check if the state you are moving to requires Health Certificates, Import Certificates or Value Added Tax and should they be ffixed to a pet carrier. It especially concerns countries of EU which have very strict regulations for incoming animals.

    http://www.ezmoving.com/

    Thursday, January 15, 2009

    Does Your Bichon Frise Eat His Own Poop

    Writen by Janet Combs

    Hi,

    I'm Janet Combs

    My mother bred and raised Bichon Frises for 23 years. I have been a Bichon Frise breeder for 13 years. Between what my mother taught me and my own personal experience I know a little something about Bichons.

    The reason I'm addressing this issue is because, over the years I've had quite a few people ask me; "How do I stop my Bichon Frise from eating his own poop?"

    This is a habit that many dogs (of all breeds) develop.

    Well, keep the faith! Help is on the way.

    There are a couple of things you can do to break your dog of this nasty habit.

    One: Try putting some diced pineapple in with his food. Yes, I said diced pineapple. About 2-3 teaspoons. When the pineapple is digested it produces an enzyme which deters the dog from, you know, doing what we're trying to make him stop. Some Bichons may not eat pineapple. Our little male, Walker will eat just about anything. But, our female, Annie, is very finnicky. But, I think most Bichons will go for it.

    Two: If, for whatever reason, the pineapple doesn't do the trick, there is a product called "Deter" which has the same effect. Give him 1-2 tablets per day (depending on size) for two weeks. It has been proven to be effective. You can find it at a discount price at www.dog.com.

    I hope I have been of some help. If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to email me at jennasgifts.cinci.rr.com

    Wishing you and your Bichon happiness always,

    Janet Combs

    If you would like to learn more about caring for and training your Bichon Frise go to: http://www.combsinfo.com

    Tuesday, January 13, 2009

    The Mile High Canine Club Story

    Writen by Tiffany Thoms

    In February of 2005 my girlfriend and I rescued a Great Dane from the Rocky Mountain Great Dane Rescue. She was six months old, severely malnourished and cute as can be. We already had 2 rescue dogs (Henry and Morgan) so we had some experience with the behavior, diet and socialization anomalies that adopted dogs can bring with them. The night we picked her up, the foster family told us how she spent her first six months of life. She and her two sisters had been found in a garden shed in Nebraska. They were all scared and emaciated but completely adorable. Our baby, LuLu, was the worst of the three. She was afraid of every noise, walked with a tucked tail, never barked or whimpered and didn't know how to play. She didn't understand typical canine social cues: Week two in our house when she approached Henry while he was eating a bone, he gave her a warning growl. She didn't have any idea what it meant. She didn't recognize play behavior and didn't understand why Morgan's tail was always wagging. The rescue advised us to get her some formal socialization. Since LuLu was our baby (still is, really), we wanted to find a worthy dog daycare and kennel to take her one or two days a week to help her understand the fundamentals. Thus we embarked on a thorough search of the Denver dog daycare market.

    We used the typical search tools to identify our prospects (yellow pages, Google, Yahoo, etc). Dog daycare isn't a new concept in Denver – there are several establishments operating all over the metro area. We identified the ones closest to us, asked everyone we knew for ones we may have missed and visited each one asking the most detailed questions possible. We may have spent more time interviewing these places than some people do looking for child care.

    We asked about outdoor terrain, playgroup segregation, permissible toys, dog to staff ratio, operating hours, incident handling procedures, feeding and medication procedures, nap time requirements, water intake monitoring, staff education and cleaning habits. We weren't surprised to find that many places have similar setups. There were a couple of great places that we loved but they were either too far or booked out three weeks in advance. We just weren't satisfied with the level of care provided in the places closest to us that had immediate availability. Thus, we decided to start our own establishment.

    My girlfriend and I approached a fellow dog lover (she too has two rescue dogs) with our idea to start a dog daycare and kennel. We all three volunteer with rescues and other dog organizations, have a passion for animal care, donate to several animal causes and want our babies to be spoiled at all times. These philosophies created a strong foundation for Mile High Canine Club.

    The three of us spent weeks searching for the perfect facility. We wanted something with a large outdoor and indoor area. We wanted something close and convenient but far enough from a major intersection (just in case a dog got off leash during drop off or pick up). We wanted something with multiple outdoor access points (to allow playgroups to go out different doors). After 2 months of searching, we found the perfect place. It was zoned correctly, the landlord welcomed our application (many others denied us based on the animal aspect), and the indoor area was huge (4,800 sq ft) with multiple access points to the 7,500 sq ft outside space (already enclosed by a 6 foot cedar fence!). We immediately signed a lease and hired a contractor to begin building our dream canine palace at 1346 W. Cedar Avenue.

    We hired a designer to do our space planning and building layout. She measured the place, designed a beautiful lobby with lots of windows (so owners could view the playgroups), and created four distinct play areas that could be collapsed into two (in case we had larger playgroups). She designed the entrance door on one end and the exit on the other to eliminate the congestion of dogs in one opening. She picked great colors, great materials and the build out began.

    During the construction phase, we joined a few email group lists for dog daycare and kennel owners. This provided valuable information and lessons learned from around the nation. One of the advantages to working in the dog care field is the willingness of others to share information. After all, we do have the same goal in mind: canine care. Through these email discussions we learned best practices for interviewing dogs, feeding restrictions, effective operating procedures and much more.

    We used all of our research and past experience volunteering with rescues and humane societies to create our own operating procedures to support our philosophy. We are differentiating ourselves by spoiling our members the way we spoil our own dogs. We do this by providing more amenities like purified water and filtered air, dog beds, lots of toys, healthy treats, plenty of playtime and cuddle time, a trained and educated staff, an onsite manager with Veterinarian Assistant training, partnering with a knowledgeable vet, an outdoor area without pea gravel (to minimize irritated paws) and calling customers to provide updates on their dog while they are out of town. Our web cams provide customers with the ability to view their dogs while they are away. We ask owners to provide food to mitigate unnecessary gastrointestinal disruption. We administer medications and don't charge a premium to do so. Our kennel rates are the same 365 days a year; we don't charge more for holiday stays. Our goal is to make the dog and owner happy. We believe that a well socialized and loved dog is a happier dog. We created an environment that allowed our LuLu, to gain confidence and make friends (she actually wags her tail, fetches and barks now!). We would like to share that environment with your babies.

    In addition to providing exceptional canine care to our customers, we also continue to assist the rescue organizations. It is our mission to partner with area rescues and assist in facilitating fundraising events as often as possible. In our first month of business we hosted a dog wash to benefit the Rocky Mountain Great Dane Rescue. We charged $10/wash and 95% of the money was given to the rescue. In November 2005 we are hosting the Good Samaritan Pet Adoption Center Holiday Open House. We are allowing them to use our facility free of charge. We have also contacted other local rescues and humane societies offering our facility and time. Promoting these worthwhile organizations is important to us. After all, they started this mission by bringing LuLu into our family.

    If you are in need of dog daycare and/or kenneling, give us a call. We would be happy to provide your dog's first day free of charge, after they pass the initial behavioral interview, that is. Come in today to see what a day does for your dog!

    Mile High Canine Club
    1346 W. Cedar Ave
    Denver, CO 80223
    303-722-2011

    info@milehighcanineclub.com

    http://www.milehighcanineclub.com/

    Monday, January 12, 2009

    The Proper Use Of Dog Identification Tag

    Writen by Dave Poon

    Losing your dog could be a very sad experience. Dogs are more than just pets; they are also our guardians and our companions. It is said that dogs are more loyal than other animals and are in fact, even more loyal than most of us; hence, a dog is considered as man's best friend.

    No matter how we try to keep our dogs always within sight, however, they sometimes go astray. Chances are, without any form of identification, they may not be returned by those who find them and they might be gone for good. This is where the importance of a dog identification tag comes in. Since your dog cannot speak for himself, its dog identification tag shall tell the finder where to return your lost dog.

    A typical dog identification tag is a flat metal tag attached to the collar, chain, rope or harness worn by the dog around its neck. It usually displays the name of the owner, his contact number or his address. It's used to easily and quickly notify the owner when the dog is found.

    In UK, affixing a dog identification tag on the dog's collar is a legal duty. A Control of Dog Order was issued in 1992 which required all dog owners to fix on their dog a collar with a dog identification tag on it whenever it is in public places such as a public road or a public resort. The dog identification tag must have pertinent information such as the name of the dog, and the name and address of the owner so the dog can be easily and quickly returned to the owner when lost. These pieces of information may also be engraved on the collar itself or on a plate attached to the collar. A violation of such law would cost you £2,000.

    There are also exemptions to the Control of Dog Order of 1992. Not covered by the legislation are the following:

    a. dogs that are officially used on by armed forces, HM Customs & Excise or the police
    b. dogs that are used in sport events
    c. dogs that are used in capturing and destroying vermin
    d. dogs that are used to drive or tend sheep
    e. dogs that are used by blind people to guide them
    f. dogs that are used in rescuing in the event of emergencies

    In the US, using dog identification tags is not obligatory; however, many dog-friendly organizations recommend the use of such tag. Moreover, most Americans, dog lovers as they are (American Veterinary Medical Association 54% of all households in the US have at least one pet dog; 47% of them consider their pets as members of the family), feel and understand the need of using dog identification tags.

    As an alternative to dog identification tags, some dog owners prefer to have their dogs tattooed as collars and dog id tags may also be lost. Today, with the emergence and advancement of RFID technology, it's already possible to implant microchip with control numbers under the dog's skin. This makes tracking for a lost dog easier and faster.

    Dave Poon is an accomplished writer who specializes in the latest in pets and pet safety. For more information regarding Dog Identification Tag, please drop by at http://pets.answerwisely.com

    Sunday, January 11, 2009

    The Shih Tzu Tibetan Heritage

    Writen by Connie Limon

    There has been opinions that the Tibetan Lion Dog is the result of a cross between the Lhassa Terrier and the Pekingese. The dogs of each country, the Lhassa Terrier from Tibet and the Pekingese from China had been taken to the other country from time to time. The cross in Tibet that was taken out of that country through India has been called the Apso, while the Chinese cross has more of the Pekingese. It is the opinion of some that all these breeds were interbred to create the first Shih Tzu in China.

    When first Shih Tzu imported into England in 1930, the Shih Tzu were classified as Apsos. The two breeds were distinguished as separate in 1934.

    The Shih Tzu of Scandinavian background were in an even different category during this same time period. It is not documented anywhere of any of the Shih Tzu Scandinavian lines being mistaken for Lhasa Apso, even after importation into the United States. Their appearance was so different of the Lhasa Apso that there was no likelihood of confusing the Scandinavian Shih Tzu lines with the Lhasa Apso.

    There was a considerable amount of fear expressed by the British Shih Tzu Club of potential "disastrous" crossbreedings in the United States. They encouraged future American purchasers to avoid any further confusion between the Shih Tzu and Lhasa Apso in the U.S.A.

    The American Shih Tzu Club code of ethics plainly states that crossbreeding a Shih Tzu with any other breed, whether it be with Lhasa Apso or the Pekingese breed, is strictly prohibited. This code of ethics should be adhered to by all Shih Tzu Purebred Breeders.

    The two breeds of the Lhasa Apso and the Shih Tzu have been kept separate now for many years. A suggestion to help distinquish the two breeds from one another is to always show the Shih Tzu with the long sweep of hair on the top of the head tied with a rubber band into a top knot, the hair above the head then fanning out into a "palm tree." The Apso has its long hair of the head styled as parted n the center, then mingling with the ear featherings.

    The fact that both Shih Tzu and the Lhasa Apso have common ancestry is highly probable according to all the documentations found in our history of the two breeds. However, one should continually look for and appreciate the subtleties of the different characteristics of Chinese Shih Tzu and Tibetan Apso. They have become two quite distinctly different breeds.

    The earliest "Lion Dog" in Tibet were probably long-haired and small and somewhat similar to the Maltese in type. As the cultural and religious ties between Tibet and China flowed over the centuries, the exchange of dogs no doubt became mutual between them. The Chinese have been most certainly known to interbred their small dogs, of which were more varieties than the Shih Tzu, with the long-haired Tibetans, and something similar occurred in Tibet without much reason to doubt this fact.

    Again, however, I want to emphasize here: The crossbreedings mentioned in this article is a part of our past Shih Tzu History. The Present Day American Shih Tzu Club's Code of Ethics clearly states that crossbreeding a Shih Tzu with any other breed, is strictly prohibited and against the Shih Tzu Purebred Ethics for a Shih Tzu Breeder of the Purebred Shih Tzu. We must all adhere to this Code of Ethics.

    Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

    Saturday, January 10, 2009

    Ring Worm Treatments

    Writen by Marcus Peterson

    Ringworm is an infectious skin disease spread by fungi called Dermatophytes. It spreads itself by forming ring-like pattern on skin with a circular rash that is inflamed at the edges and clean at the center.

    Though, ringworm is a curable disease it should never be taken lightly or ignored. If left untreated it will spread and can become chronic. As soon as you notice symptoms like itching, burning, dryness, or circular flaky rashes on the skin, consult your family doctor for immediate treatment.

    The regular treatment for ringworm usually takes 2-4 weeks depending on its intensity. The most common treatment methods include applying topical anti fungal creams like miconazole or cloritmazole on affected areas. These creams and many anti-ringworm ointments are readily available.

    Since creams may not be applied to affected area such as toenails or scalp, oral medication along with ointments developed especially for these body parts may be prescribed. Scalp ringworms are major cause of hair loss and require aggressive treatment.

    If ringworm resists regular treatment, consult a skin specialist. She may advise you to take oral medication along with special ointments to control or stop the growth of fungi. Oral medications are usually accompanied by side effects too that include gastrointestinal upset, abnormal liver functioning, decreased clotting ability of blood. If you are taking any medication for ulcer or GERD treatment, you must inform your doctor in advance since they may interfere with this therapy.

    Ring Worms provides detailed information about ring worm, human ring worm and more. Ring Worms is affiliated with Dry Skin Lotion.

    Friday, January 9, 2009

    Create A Backyard Habitat For Wild Birds With A Bird Feeder

    Writen by Chris Robertson

    With a little imagination and very little effort, you can transform your backyard into a natural habitat for birds. Whether you're an avid birdwatcher, or simply want to invite nature a little closer to your home, birdfeeders put down the welcome mat for our avian friends.

    According to the Audubon Society (www.audubon.org), a bird feeder comes in one of four basic designs. Ground feeders are flat and open, have a screened bottom, and rest off the ground and should be situated ten feet from nearby trees or bushes so that birds can fly away from any predators. Ground feeders can be made squirrel proof by utilizing wire mesh over the bird feeder.

    Tube birdfeeders are cylindrical in shape and typically have openings that allow birds to access the seeds. They should be hung off the ground and, for maximum enjoyment, near a window so that family members can witness the wild birds that come to visit.

    Suet and hopper bird feeders are typically shaped like houses. A suet bird feeder, made for wild birds that peck at the seed mixed into the suet, is usually hung, while a hopper bird feeder can either be hung or placed on a post for easy access by wild birds. A hopper bird feeder contains a large quantity of seed, which is released when the wild bird steps on the feeder trigger. Hopper birdfeeders attract both small and large birds, including the cardinal.

    Unlike the tube and hopper birdfeeders, the thistle bird feeder is designed with very small holes, allowing only small-beaked finches to access the food. Thistle birdfeeders should be hung, and can be made squirrel proof.

    The Audubon Society also provides helpful tips on making your backyard friendly to hummingbirds by populating it with humming bird feeders. They suggest that you use several humming bird feeders and fill each with sugar water, being careful to avoid using red food coloring and honey. In addition, you should change the solution in the humming bird feeder weekly, or more often in hot weather.

    It is certainly possible to make your own bird feeders, but there are several great birdfeeders available on the market, including those made by Droll Yankee, Opus, Woodllink, and Duncraft.

    To get the most out of your bird watching experience, the Audubon Society suggests that you utilize several different types of bird feeders and that you place them at various heights and locations. In this way, you will attract a wide variety of wild birds. In addition, be sure that your efforts to create a backyard habitat don't harm the birds you are trying to attract. Keep birdfeeders three feet away from windows to avoid collisions, and make sure to keep your cat indoors.

    Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web. Visit this Pets and Supplies Website and Majon's Pets and Supplies directory.

    Thursday, January 8, 2009

    West Highland White Terriers A Wonderful Breed Apart

    Writen by Jeff Cuckson

    West Highland White Terriers are furry coated dogs, with dots for coal black eyes and button noses.

    Why are West Highland White Terrier puppies sought after by many dog lovers? Because these friendly creatures are well-behaved, loyal and affectionate dogs, who may be pocket sized (average a 10-11 inches tall), but are highly intelligent animals.

    You won't have a hard time training these dogs, whether solely as house pets, or for show. Their keen intelligence makes it seem like play. However, they learn better and best to training sessions that are done on a schedule.

    Brush their white coats two to three times a week, to keep it shiny and clean. If you do intend to enter them for competition, make sure your pet is regularly trimmed, plucked and stripped of his or her coat.

    A West Highland white terrier lives an average of 15+ years, and usually has a litter of two to five puppies.

    What is the history behind the West Highland White Terrier breed? This breed originated in Scotland developed in the high mountains of West Scotland, to hunt vermin. They claim a common ancestry to the Scotch Terrier.

    References to the existence of the West Highland White Terrier can be seen as early as the 18th century, like one painting done by Sir Edwin Landseer. The piece entitled "The Breakfast Party" clearly features the West Highland Terriers.

    Another name of the West Highland White Terrier, is as the Poltalloch terrier. The name refers to the home of Col. E.D. Malkolm, the first breeder of these breed. In 1907, the breed then registered as the Roseneath terrier, little Skye and Cairn. Then in 1909, AKC officially changed the breed's name to what it is known as today, West Highland White Terrier breed.

    In the past West Highland White Terriers, were considered to belong to the one breed, with Dandie Dinmont, Skye, Cairn and Scottish Terriers. However, although they share common ancestors, selective breeding resulted in the differences between their coat type and colors.

    A surprising fact about this breed is, given that the West Highland White Terrier was originally bred to traipse the steep and rugged mountain sides, Westies are well adjusted to today's living conditions. As long as they are walked several times a day, they are good apartment dwellers.

    It's not that hard to see then that the West Highland White Terrier definitely qualifies as one of man's best friends.

    (Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

    I do hope that you have found the article of use to you.

    Good health and happiness

    Jeff Cuckson
    webmaster@madaboutwesties.com
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    Wednesday, January 7, 2009

    Reincarnating Pets

    Writen by Nedda Wittels

    It is always sad when a beloved animal family member leaves their body and goes into spirit. We call this death, but truly, no one dies. The physical body drops away as the spirit separates from it and goes into another dimension. The spirit is the being that we truly love, although we may be attached to the physical aspect that we associated with that being. Since we are still in physical, we often miss the sight, touch and smell of our friend and we grieve this loss, which is appropriate.

    As an Animal Communicator, I frequently speak with clients and their animals who have passed into spirit. When the animal tells me they want to return it leads to discussions about what form they plan to take and when they might come. Sometimes animals tell me that they "try out" different forms while still in spirit. At other times, they already have decided or know exactly what form they want, down to sex , size and color of the body.

    Humans always want to know how they will recognize their beloved friend upon their return and how they will be able to find them. The replies are fairly consistent. "You will recognize my energy." "Look into my eyes and you will know me." "This is a time for you to learn to trust your intuition."

    One of my clients, who had two dogs, was sad to realize that the older dog, Chanel, a white German Shepard female, was getting ready to pass into spirit. I spoke telepathically with Chanel prior to her leaving, and again, after she had completed her spiritual transition work. In a series of conversations with Chanel in spirit, she explained that she wanted to return to her family. She was very specific, saying she wanted to be a white German Shepard female once more, perhaps a bit smaller in size. She said she would return in the New England area, where her family lived, and would be born around April 1, 2002.

    Her person wrote, "White German Shepherds are fairly rare. However, that June, after much searching and networking, a friend of a friend told us of a white, female German Shepherd in Manchester, Connecticut, born on April 1. She warned us that this dog wasn't very friendly or social with anyone. We immediately visited the puppy. Everyone was amazed how she came right to us, sat down and gave me her paw!"

    My client e-mailed some photos of the puppy to me, and in a telepathic session, she claimed to be Chanel. It certainly sounded and felt like Chanel to me, and my client also sensed it was her friend. She named the dog Lily, and brought her home on June 10, 2002. My client wrote, "It was amazing how she knew where everything was and, although we were told that she was not housetrained, we did not have to do anything in that regard. Lily had only one accident and was instantly going to the door to ask to go out--the same door Chanel used to go to! Finding Lily and knowing she is also Chanel has been a wonderful experience for our family. We feel blessed to have gotten our Chanel back in the form of another loving and beautiful canine."

    Not every return to the physical plane takes places so quickly. Animals from our childhood may return when we are adults. Sometimes they come many times in our same lifetime, and other times they come once and then not again until we experience a different life. One of my cats, Violet, has been with me three previous times in my current lifetime, each time as a cat. You can read the story of Violet's most recent return at http://raysofhealinglight.com (click on Nedda Wittels, and then click on Violet Returns).

    The important thing to remember is that we are never truly separated from the ones we love. We can speak to them while they are in spirit. Many of them visit us after they pass over. At other times, they may choose to return to us in physical.

    One cat already in spirit was clear that she planned to return soon. "I want to be a dog this time," she told her family. The cat wanted to be a small, white, and lap size. The family was more interested in a larger type of dog. They compromised, agreeing on a nearly white Golden Retriever. When the family found her, they were so certain it was she that they never even asked me to speak with her to be sure.

    Compromises of this type are not always possible. Types of bodies, sex, and colors, and possibly other details of appearance and genetics have different vibrations. The being who is returning has specific life experiences and lessons they may be planning to incorporate into their next lifetime. Sometimes they simply prefer a particular form or color. It is up to spirit to make these determinations. It is not up to us to try to control the process and the form the animal is choosing.

    Another cat I spoke with didn't ever purr, according to her family. They wanted to know why she would make growling sounds whenever they stroked her, yet didn't move away or try to scratch or bite them. The cat explained that she had never been a cat before and was very experienced at being a dog. She said she didn't know how to purr, and was trying to imitate the sound. What came out sounded like a growl.

    Experience has taught me that our job is to allow the returning being into our lives with love and acceptance. It is not our job to orchestrate all the details. Most returning spirits give us just enough information to get us to search for them. We are encouraged to strengthen our intuition and to learn to recognize them by their energy, their spirit. Then, when we welcome them with open arms and hearts, we experience the miracle of their return.

    Rev. Nedda Wittels, M.A., M.S., is a telepathic Animal Communicator, Spiritual Counselor, and Shamballa Master/Teacher, offering private sessions in communication and healing for humans and animals. She teaches workshops in Animal Communication, Communication with Nature, and Shamballa Multidimensional Healing. She can be reached at 860.651.5771, NeddaW@aol.com, and http://www.raysofhealinglight.com

    Tuesday, January 6, 2009

    First Aid For Pets

    Writen by Jennifer Horning

    Ever consider a first aid kit for Fido or Fluffy? There are a number of items and techniques to help a pet stay comfortable until professional help can be reached. Of course in any emergency situation, your veterinarian should be notified for immediate treatment.

    · Choking – The Heimlich Maneuver can be very effective for pets. Even if your vet is just a phone call away, every pet owner should be able to perform this life saving technique. Be sure to ask your veterinarian how to properly perform the Heimlich Maneuver on your pet.

    · Burns – Thermal burns on pets are treated much the same way humans treat burns. Apply a topical, soothing ointment such as aloe vera or Vitamin E oil to promote healing and ease the "sting" of the burn. Electrical burns are very serious, as they can stop a pet's heart, so contact your veterinarian immediately if this is the case.

    · Poisoning – One good product to keep in your first aid kit is "activated charcoal". This is commonly used for children as well. Activated charcoal will absorb toxins or poisons that were ingested, so that it can harmlessly pass through the digestive system.

    · Wounds – If your pet has a fresh, bleeding wound, try to subdue the animal and apply pressure with a cool, damp, cloth. Hold firmly for 10-20 minutes. If you are unable to stop the bleeding during this time, contact your veterinarian. Consider using a light wrap such as an ace bandage, and change this bandage frequently. A topical antibiotic ointment may be helpful to speed healing and keep wound clean.

    · Abrasions – Run cool water over the scrape several times daily to promote cleaning and healing. A topical healing ointment may be used. Bandages for abrasions are not usually recommended.

    · Sprains and Strains – Apply a cool compress or ice pack wrapped in a towel to the affected area to reduce swelling and ease pain. Warm and cool compresses may be alternated to increase circulation and promote healing.

    · Broken Bones – After calling the veterinarian, try to stabilize your pet by comforting him/her. Try to keep pet as calm and quiet as possible. A cool compress may be used to help keep swelling down, but generally the area will be very painful and sensitive to the touch. Makeshift splints and bandaging are not recommended for those who have no training in this area.

    Smart pet owners will be prepared for any emergency. Be sure to have your veterinary emergency contact information in an obvious location (such as posted on your refrigerator or home message center).

    Jennifer Horning has worked in the veterinary field for over 10 years as an assistant to a veterinarian homeopath/nutritionist.

    Sunday, January 4, 2009

    Shih Tzu Early Socialization Is Essential For Your Shih Tzu Puppy

    Writen by Connie Limon

    Teaching a shih tzu puppy or a shih tzu dog proper socialization skills is vital to the safety of both your dog and other dogs and people with whom he comes into contact. A properly socialized shih tzu dog is a happy dog, and a joy to be around for both humans and animals. A poorly socialized shih tzu dog, or one with no socialization at all, is a danger to other animals, other people and even his own family.

    Socialization is best done when the shih tzu puppy is as young as possible The socialization lessons a young shih tzu puppy learns are difficult to undo, and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the shih tzu puppy learns will affect his behavior for the rest of his life.

    A shih tzu dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialized shih tzu dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive. Shih tzu dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a shih tzu dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it. Improperly socialized shih tzu dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations. A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the shih tzu dog out and lead to all sorts of problems.

    Socialization is best done when the shih tzu puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the shih tzu puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the all important social skills. It is possible to socialize an older shih tzu puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.

    There are some definite do's and don't when it comes to properly socializing any shih tzu puppy. Let's start with what to do. Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.

    Socialization do's

    Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the shih tzu puppy as possible. If a shih tzu puppy's first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the shih tzu puppy's mind. In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime. It is better to take things slow and avoid having the shih tzu puppy become frightened or injured.

    Try inviting your friends over to meet the new shih tzu puppy. It is important to include as many different people as possible in the shih tzu puppy's circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of many diverse ethnic backgrounds and ages.

    Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy. It is important for the shih tzu puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, hamsters, rabbits and other animals he is likely to meet. It is of course important to make sure that all animals the shih tzu puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.

    Take the shih tzu puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, pet stores, parks, school playgrounds and on walks around the neighborhood. Try to expose the shih tzu puppy to places where they will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.

    Take the shih tzu puppy for frequent short rides in the car. During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside. Introduce your shih tzu puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar. The shih tzu puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him. Allow and encourage the shih tzu puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.

    Get the shih tzu puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones. Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your shih tzu puppy will perceive as totally new.

    Get the shih tzu puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc. Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.

    Introduce the shih tzu puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs. Also introduce the shih tzu puppy to the collar and leash, so he will be comfortable with these items. There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a shih tzu puppy. These socialization don'ts include:

    Do not place the shih tzu puppy on the ground when strange animals are present. An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the shih tzu puppy and hurt his socialization.

    Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior. When the shih tzu puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to sooth it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse. Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.

    Do not force or rush the socialization process. It is important to allow the shih tzu puppy to socialize at his own pace.

    Do not try to do too much too soon. Young shih tzu puppies have short attention spans, and continuing lessons after that attention span has passed will be a waste of your time and your puppy's.

    Do not wait too long to begin. There is a short window in which to begin the socialization process. A young shih tzu puppy is a blank slate, and it is important to fill that slate with positive socialization skills as early as possible.

    Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder in Indiana. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

    Saturday, January 3, 2009

    Shih Tzu Care Of Your Shih Tzu After Whelping

    Writen by Connie Limon

    During a shih tzu whelping you should have the puppies in a small box (I use plastic rubbermaid boxes of various sizes). In bottom of the box place a heating pad. On top the heating pad, place a soft baby receiving blanket. Drape another receiving blanket over top the box. This creates an incubator type environment for your newborns.

    When you are sure your shih tzu has delivered all her puppies, place the puppies from the incubator box in the whelping box with mom (after you clean the whelping box and provide clean linens). I use various types of whelping box liners such as towels, quilts, baby blankets, regular blankets. Most shih tzu mothers are anxious to accept their babies and will probably make a fuss about any of them being out of her reach. There is always the exception, however, and if she does not accept them right away do not be alarmed. I have never had a shih tzu mother to refuse her babies for longer than a few minutes actually. If mom is tired or in a momentary state of shock she might not feel like being with her newborns right away.

    A funny story about one of my shih tzu moms, which was my movie star girl, Ginger, and I will place Ginger's picture in this article. I had a family emergency just as Ginger started to deliver her first litter. Oddly she whelped in daylight (usually it is always night or early morning for whelpings). I had no other choice but to leave her for a short while. She had whelped one puppy with me by her side doing my chores with the whelping process. When I returned, I found just that one puppy she whelped before I left and I assumed she had not delivered anymore. I looked at her and said, Ginger, no more puppies yet?

    Suddenly Ginger pointed with her head to the small step that leads out of this area where she was whelping and there layed another puppy. I could almost hear her saying: "over there it is." It was comical and I labeled it as one of the shih tzu's many comical antics they are capable of coming up with. I also was troubled she did that. There she sat in the whelping box by herself. The one puppy she whelped before I left still in its spot. And now on the step lays her second puppy. Why in this world she got up there and had the puppy, then returned to her box is left to anyone's imagination or opinion, but I felt it was an "antic," perhaps even because I left her. She knew I was looking for more puppies as soon as I returned and immediately showed me where it was. Almost anything to be contrary sometimes is a shih tzu.

    I have always been able to put the shih tzu newborns in with the mother immediately after the whelping. I keep a heating pad in the box with mom and puppies.

    You should take your mother shih tzu to the vet within 8 hours after a whelping. He will give her two injections most likely. One is to expel all things from uterus (sometimes part of a placenta or even a dead puppy may remain in the uterus). The other injection will be an antibiotic to guard against infection. Calcium pills and small supply of antibiotics might also be prescribed. Different vets have different protocols. Sometimes a vet will have you to give your shih tzu mom calcium pills until weaning.

    If your mom shih tzu had a long whelping, you might offer her some milk between the delivery of the puppies and give her a chance to relieve herself. You will want to carry her out, and keep a tight rein on her. You don't want her running off somewhere to finish delivering. Some of my shih tzu have repeatedly tried to pick their own whelping spot and it could be under the porch for all they care. Why they would choose under the porch rather than a nice soft blanket in a box to deliver is way beyond me, except of course, just another way to be stubborn and contrary.

    Clean the hindquarters with a damp towel right after whelping and dry her thoroughly. When it seems she has rested some, settled in and the puppies have nursed a little and are quiet, it will be safe to take mom for a full shampoo. Be sure and leave the heating pad in the whelping box and put your receiving blanket over the whelping box to hold in the heat. Chilling is number one cause for newborn fatality. Don't let mom get chilled during the bath. Blow dry her thoroughly. She will probably be nervous and upset to be taken away from her babies and very anxious to return to them, but you need to be sure mom shih tzu is thoroughly dry before returning her to her babies, so pay this no attention.

    A breeder's main tasks after whelping and until weaning time is to keep the captain of the ship (your shih tzu mom) well fed, plenty of fresh water and a clean, dry whelping box. There are several effective cleaners on the market for cleaning the box. I like using just a mixture of bleach and water. Clorox bleach is very effective against parvo virus. At this point, the breeder can begin to feel much like a "maid servant" to her shih tzu mom and newborns. The sight of these precious little babies make up for most of it, however. If they are a healthy crew, they will wiggle and squirm nudging each other out of the way to get to their precious "milk," from mom.

    My moms often will be so excited about their babies, they will hold out their tongues as if in sheer joy and laughter. Look out for a fuss from mom each time you remove the puppies from the box to clean. She will most likely jump inside the small box you place the puppies in, no matter how small that box is, my mothers still try to fit themselves in there with their new babies. They are terrified the babies cannot survive a second without them, and this is actually very, very true. There is no other care that replaces the care of the mother during this time of a newborn's life. I always try my best to accommodate mom's wishes, and respect her instinct, although it does create a little havoc at cleaning time. At this time, newborn shih tzu are aware of anything but their mother. Mom will stimulate them to defecate and urinate. They are born unable to do so on their own. Their eyes and their ears are glued shut. Their open up at about 10 days.

    I recommend and feed HealthyPetNet Life's Abundance to my nursing moms.

    Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com