Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Pet Training

Writen by J.J. Nielson

Do you have an unruly dog or cat that just won't behave? When animals don't listen to their masters and start to become destructive around the house, it is probably time for some good old fashioned pet training. There is much more to pet training than just teaching your dog the basic commands like sit, stay, heel, lay down, and roll over. When you can become the leader for your animals, they will follow you and live up to the name of man's best friend.

There are many pet training tools that you can use if you prefer to try teaching your pet commands or tricks at home. You don't have to be a professional dog trainer to get your dog or cat to come, stay, or listen to you. The first rule to follow is to be very calm and assertive around your dogs and cats, so that they get the message that you are in control. You might also want to purchase training leads, collars, treats, leashes and other helpful pet supplies to assist you in the teaching process.

When you begin your pet training, whether with a professional or at home, remember that if you get frustrated or angry with your pets, you probably won't be able to teach them very easily. Patience and repetition is key, and the more you practice and also exercise your animals, the better your relationship with them will be. Consider getting a pet training video or book to help you teach your dog or cat the best behavior.

J.J. Nielson is a successful graphic artist and published internet author. She has worked closely with prominent dog behaviorists and leads her own pack of animals at home.

For more pet resources and information, visit our site at http://www.best-pet-supply-online.com

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Train Your Dog With Respect

Writen by Wendy Yeager

Proper training of your dog should begin when he is a puppy. The first four months of a dog's life are very important in the training of your dog. This is when they learn behaviors that they will practice in the future.

Socializing your dog is one of the most important things you can do to influence your dog's future behavior. As soon as you bring your new puppy home, you should start letting him interact with other puppies, dogs and humans. Take your dog to parks where there will be other pets and people. Ask your friends if it is okay for your dog to visit their dog at their home or yours. Puppies will learn how to get along with other puppies and dogs if they are allowed to play with them when they are young. Introduce your dog to new experiences. Give him rides in the car, walk him on a leash around the park, let him hear the vacuum cleaner running. Help your puppy get used to a regular routine of baths, brushing , and healthy meals.

Housebreaking your puppy takes a lot of patience. Fix up a nice little space or room for your puppy. Place his food and water bowl there along with some favorite toys. Be sure to put newspapers all over the floor and replace them often. When you are at home with the puppy, let him out of his room for a short period of time to roam around and play. Return your puppy to his room and the newspapers after about 30-45 minutes to help with his housebreaking. Do not punish your puppy for having an accident. It could take up to six months before he is fully housebroken. Remember, most puppies can't control their bladder overnight until they are about four months old.

Your puppy will undoubtedly want to chew on things he shouldn't. Train him to leave your things alone by keeping them out of reach and by providing him with a variety of doggy chew toys. If he chews on your favorite slipper, don't punish him. Simply replace the slipper with one of his own chew toys. Praise him for playing with his own toys.

Sometimes, you will have to leave your dog home alone. Help him to feel comfortable alone by leaving on the television or radio for company. Leave an adequate amount of food and water. Don't forget to leave lots of doggy toys for him to play with.

You may be having trouble training your dog. Maybe he's not responding to your commands or seems to be ignoring you. Or maybe the housebreaking is backfiring and your dog is having accidents all over the house. These may be signs of a medical condition. Be sure to visit the vet regularly to rule out things like loss of hearing or bladder infections. Always be sure your dog is healthy, happy and well cared for.

If you feel this job is too big for you or you just want some additional instruction or behavioral training for your dog,, there are many reputable professional dog trainers and obedience schools. Do some research and ask questions to find the right school for your dog.

Most importantly, you must be a responsible owner in order to train them properly. If you want your dog to trust and respect you, you must do the same in return. Never hit, kick, or slap your dog. Include your dog in family outings and games and general family life. Do not play aggressive games with them as this can cause them to behave aggressively. Reward good behavior and yet do not spoil your dog. Remember, if you practice lots of patience, love and respect for your dog, you will receive the same from him.

About The Author

Wendy Yeager

http://www.wenmarcorp.com/dogs-go2

mjy222@hotmail.com

Monday, December 29, 2008

Dogs And Cats How To Select The Right Pet For You

Writen by Simon Guilder

From Lassie to Garfield, many of us have been entertained by shows depicting animals and have enjoyed having pets of our own.

If you have not had the pleasant experience of living with a pet, you might want to consider it now. The companionship and fun offered by having a pet of your own can't be beat.

People choose everything from iguanas to parakeets for their pets, but dogs and cats are by far the most popular choices. Which of these would be best for you is the subject of this article.

Here are some suggestions to keep in mind when selecting species and breed for you and your family.

Both dogs and cats are wonderful as pets. You may want to be checked for allergies before adopting your pet because finding out you're allergic later can be heartbreaking.

You can find pets from a variety of places - from the animal shelter, where they generally have all their shots, to a local veterinarian's office that may have postings, to a breeder, easily located on the Internet.

When choosing a pet, remember to take into account the time and energy you have to care for your animal.

Cats are very self-sufficient animals who love to be treated like royalty. Although they can be friendly, they are also independent and after they get a little older, they can pretty much take care of themselves. You still have to train your new kitten to the litter box, but this is usually very easy.

If you're an extremely busy person and do not have a lot of time to spend with a pet, a cat may very well be your best choice. If you are going on a weekend trip, you can leave your cat at home without concern; this would not be possible if you had a dog.

Dogs are one of Nature's friendliest and most companionable creatures. Known as man's best friend, your dog will be excited when you come home, and until they become very old, they will enjoy walking and playing with you endlessly.

When they're puppies, dogs can take up a lot of your time as you have to house- train them if they're living inside, and if you choose a larger dog especially, you will need to make sure your schedule provides time for daily exercise for them.

Dogs were bred for specific purposes, and it is in your best interests to understand what "job" the dog you're interested in having was bred to do - even a mixed breed dog if you can find out what its main ancestry is.

For example, a collie was bred to herd animals. Their instinct is to round up a group by coming up behind and nudging, etc. This instinctive behavior is powerful, and virtually impossible to train out of a herding dog.

Also, herding involves covering distances at a run, so these dogs have incredible endurance. Knowing these characteristics helps you decide whether a collie is appropriate for you.

Collies are bred to work, and get neurotic if they don't have a "job." Plus, they need a great deal of exercise because they were bred for covering long distances.

To learn more about the characteristics and temperament of different breeds, you can find excellent books at your library or go online. Enter a term like 'dog breed description' in a search engine, and you will find many good informational sites.

Doing this little bit of research can save a lot of frustration trying to fight the nature of a dog that wasn't the right breed for you, and can help ensure that you find a dog with characteristics that enhance your enjoyment of its companionship.

Simon Guilder has made a study of topics related to domestic animals. He is contributing writer of articles for AC Dog and ARE Books

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Shock Collars Teaching Your Dog Basic Obedience And Breaking Bad Habits

Writen by Byron Pappageorge

Shock Collars

Are you at a loss as to whether or not to purchase a shock collar for your pet? Yes, you love the little guy but the neighbors don't want him in their yard. Or, maybe they are complaining about the dog's barking? You need to do something and you are thinking about getting a shock collar? Here's some information to think about regarding shock collars.

When you are looking into shock collars you should think about what your goal is. Is the ultimate goal to keep the dog from barking? Perhaps you wish to limit the aggressiveness your dog shows? Even more so, you may need to ensure the animal stays on your property. There are different types of shock collars to accomplish these tasks.

While it may seem cruel to shock an animal into submission, the actual shock the dog receives is small. It will not leave a lasting mark or pain. There are always stories of shock collars malfunctioning and by doing so the animal gets hurt. But, the risk is much smaller than allowing that same animal to run into a busy street. So, the pet owner will have to decide if they want to use a shock collar or not.

Shock collars work by shocking the animal when it behaves badly. Say for example, that an animal is to remain in a certain area. No amount of telling the animal to stay keeps him there and the owner does not want to keep an eye on the animal the whole time they are outside. So, the result is purchasing and using a shock collar. The animal steps over the buried boundaries and it causes a small shock to emit from the collar. This tells the animal, NO! So, the dog backs away and ends up staying in its assigned area.

As you can see, there are many benefits to using a shock collar on your pet. While it may seem harmful, it really is minimal compared to its benefits. While many people may never decide this is for them, it may eventually become something that you find useful and gives you great success. Shock collars are one method of training an animal. If you should choose this method for your pet, take the time to realize the pros and cons. It is a rather large expense and should not be taken lightly.

http://www.dogtraining collars.net

Byron Pappageorge

Saturday, December 27, 2008

English Bulldog History And Breeder Information

Writen by Lane Jordan

The AKC standard for the English Bulldog is medium size, around 40-50 pounds. English Bulldog's have a smooth coat, a large short-face head, low swung body with wide shoulders. Today, Bulldogs are bred as a friendly dog that interacts well with both humans and other dogs. English Bulldog puppies and adult dogs can be cheerful, playful, frisky, suborn and protective. Bulldogs are know for their unique personalities.

The English Bulldog's flat face has been know to cause breathing problems for them. Due to this they can develop heat stroke easier than other dogs when the weather is hot. Their short legs make it difficult for them to swim, so they need to be monitored when around water. Some of their other health problems may include cataracts, hip problems, allergies, and cherry eye. Due to their large heads in relation to their medium sized bodies, many infant bulldogs are delivered by way of c-section to prevent their head from being stuck in the birth canal.

Originally, Bulldogs were bred for bullbaiting. This is a popular betting sport during 17th century England. The Bulldogs were trained to jump at the bull, clamp onto its snout and try to suffocate the bull. This sport was banned in England in 1885. After bullbaiting was banned, Bulldog clubs began to form in Britain to help enhance the breed. Bulldogs gained more prominence with the increasing popularity of dog shows in Great Britain. Bulldogs quickly rose to the top of the show dog ring and became a symbol of Great Britain.

Many universities, military institutions, and organizations throughout the world have used the Bulldog as their mascot. English Bulldogs have also been used in the artistic world with countless characters and references in paintings, books, films, performing arts, and music. Today, English Bulldogs continue to be widely accepted as one of the most prestigious, expensive, and sought after canines.

For more information on English Bulldog puppies & breeder information visit Pets4You.com - Dogs | Cats

Friday, December 26, 2008

Senior Dogs Are Trainable

Writen by Dave Eckholm

Are you considering adopting an older or rescued dog? Older dogs are great family members and need homes. Depending on the breed, senior dogs are often are more subdued than a puppy and therefore easier on your home. But what about behaviors learned or tolerated by a previous owner? Senior dogs can be still be trained using a few tried and true ideas! Just as with puppies it will take time and patience but the outcome is worth it. A trained dog will be a happier dog because he will know what is expected of him.

5 TIPS for Teaching NEW Tricks to Older Dogs

1. Use the proper tone when communicating with your dog: High/Enthusiastic—Use for Praising (i.e. "Good Dog!") Demanding/Authoritative—Use for Commands (i.e. "Sit!") Growly/Low—Use for reprimanding (i.e. "Bad Dog!")

2. Give a command only once. This teaches your dog to listen the first time.

3. Hands Off when giving a command. Touching or petting distracts from training.

4. Recall (or "Come") is the most pleasant of all commands for your dog. Never reprimand a dog that finally comes to you…even if you had to chase him through the neighborhood before he obeyed. He needs to know that you will lavish praise and pet him when he comes to you!

5. Training not to jump up on people and furniture is best done with a metal can or box with 10 pennies, stones or marbles taped inside. For convenience, it is a good idea to have several cans located in various areas throughout your home. Shake the can up and down once or twice whenever your dog jumps up. Remember to reprimand with the low tone at the same time. The noise will startle the dog and eventually the behavior will stop.

Copyright 2006 Dave Eckholm/www.olddogpaws.com

Dave Eckholm is the owner and creator of http://www.olddogpaws.com, a site dedicated to the care and comfort of our old friends. As our dog Tikki began to lose his eyesight and became grey around his muzzle, we were concerned for his quality of life. As a senior dog, he started to have special needs. We searched for new ideas, resources and products to enhance his life. Old Dog Paws shares this information with all dog lovers so your friend can enjoy wonderful senior years too!

Thursday, December 25, 2008

The Secret That Keeps Horses Trainable

Writen by Andy Curry

As you likely know already, horses have at least 10 times our strength. If they also had our intelligence, they would probably be riding us humans. Fortunately, horses cannot reason like human beings and therefore will never have superior intelligence.

Since they don't have reasoning abilities, horse training becomes a challenge because you now have to understand how their intelligence works. You have to know what works and why to really be effective.

The biggest secret that makes it so we can train a horse is the fear of pain and/or punishment that our creator instilled in their mind. We can use that built-in fear to our advantage and teach the horse what we want him to do.

The trick is to not push the horse too far with his built-in fear. We must never abuse this knowledge because it will backfire. Once it backfires then we will have problems with the horse we're training.

How does it backfire? Let's take a novice horse owner who fulfills his dream to have horses and train them. Unless he's studied a horse's nature he will probably get into big trouble with his horse because of the delicate balance of the horse's built-in fear.

For instance, the very first lesson you must teach your horse is to have confidence in you. If your horse doesn't have confidence in you, he will neither trust you. Both are enormously important to horse training.

Think of confidence in this way. If you're a child who's just seen a scary movie on TV you probably want to sleep with Mom and Dad for the night. They'll protect you. You'll be safe with them. Hopefully, you know these things to be true because you have experienced it with your own parents.

But if you didn't feel like they'd keep you safe you wouldn't have confidence in them, would you?

A horse's thinking is similar to that. He must have confidence in you when you're working with him.

A horse can be taught confidence in different ways. I prefer to the Jesse Beery confidence lesson.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800's, uses his confidence lesson as the beginning place of training his horses. He said, "This is the most important lesson of all." To learn more about Jesse Beery go to:

http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm

Interestingly, it's also the easiest.

How nice it is that the most important lesson is the easiest to do.

Essentially, the confidence lesson takes advantage of (but never abused) the horse's built-in fear. In a way, the fear is harnessed and carefully used to get the horse's confidence in you. It's akin to getting a child to watch a scary movie and being there to protect him or her when they get scared.

When the horse experiences the fear, you're there to save the day. You make it so he depends on you to be his superhero.

When the horse gets fearful, you have to be there to tell him everything is okay. You do that through petting him. Talking to him in a soothing manner. Using a pleasant tone of voice.

I have a friend, Gene, who loves his horses but when they don't do certain things he think they should do, he punishes them. (By punishing, I don't mean he hits or whips. A horse can feel punished just by a threatening tone of voice for example)

Anyway, I rode with a group of people one day and Gene was in our group. We came upon running water. You could call it a small river or a big creek. It was about 30 feet wide and varied in depth from a foot to three feet.

Every horse crossed the water but Gene's. Gene got so upset that his horse wouldn't cross that he began booting his horse in the ribs. That poor horse wanted to comply with Gene's request but the running water scared him. The horse was spooking.

The horse paced back and forth, occasionally sniffing the water but never crossed it. The whole time Gene's legs were wildly kicking the horse trying to get him to cross - yet the horse remained spooky.

What Gene didn't realize is the horse was fearful and needed his help. Anytime a horse is fearful of a place or a thing he should be reassured with pleasant, soothing voice sounds and/or petting him.

If you do what Gene did, you just gave your horse another thing to fear. Not only does that horse fear crossing running water, now he fears he's going to be punished for it. And it's likely that anytime the horse comes upon running water both fears will crop up and Gene will have a horse that would like to comply but his instincts are so powerful that he probably won't (unless Gene figures out what to do)

Think of it from the horse's point of view.

You're a horse that cannot reason and you're instincts are self-preservation. What keeps your self-preservation in check is the built-in fear. Fear makes you run from danger. Fear is what keeps you alive. If you don't understand something you fear it even more.

Now knowing all that, imagine you're the horse and you're standing at the edge of the river. You won't cross it because you think there's danger in it somehow. On top of that, someone is on your back, pissed off and kicking you in the ribs because you won't go forward.

Not only are you scared of the water, but now you're getting kicked in the ribs and feeling punished. You want to be obedient and go forward but your instinct is too powerful and tells you not to.

It would be like telling a scared child who just saw a scary movie that he had to sleep in his own damn room.

But what if Gene had understood his horse was scared? What if he helped his horse deal with his fear.

How would he do this?

When Gene and his horse approached the water he could have spoke to his horse in a pleasant, soothing manner. When the horse was getting scared Gene should have recognized it as fear and not as disobedience.

He could have petted his horse to reassure him all is okay. He could have talked to his horse in a pleasant manner. He could have let his horse sniff the water and check it out on his own.

Instead, the horse was now confused, scared, feeling punished, less trusting of his rider, and who knows what else.

But if Gene would've recognized the fear in his horse then he could have helped his horse overcome it. Gene lost the awesome opportunity to gain a significant amount of the horse's confidence and friendship in that river scene. Too bad too. That's a beautiful paint horse.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery's horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

What To Expect From A Havanese

Writen by Fiona Kelly

One of the most positive and prevalent traits you can expect from your Havanese is companionship and devotion. A Havanese can live in a small apartment setting with ease. They don't require the amount of space or exercise requirements that larger dogs require. Therefore, in many ways a Havanese dog is very easy to care for.

Various dog breeds are prone to many common health ailments and diseases. The great thing about the Havanese breed is that it has relatively few genetic diseases in its history. This is a welcome note to any Havanese owner or anyone that is interested in finding their own wonderful Havanese dog.

The genetic problems of the Havanese include autoimmune skin conditions, cataracts and progressive retina atrophy.

I must stress, however, that it is still important to maintain quality preventative care through vaccinations, heart worm pills, and flea & tick medications. These preventative health measures are necessary for virtually every breed of dog.

A Havanese has a typical life span of around 16-18 years.

Personality Of The Havanese

This is probably the one burning question that many potential Havanese owners ask. What is their personality like? Well let me go through that for you right now:

1. Temperament

The temperament of a Havanese is playful and alert. The Havanese breed is brave even though they are smaller then most other dogs. This courage helps them to be a great watch dog. They are devoted to their family.

The Havanese breed is good with children. The key is to treat the Havanese like a companion and not a toy. Remember they are not a fragile doll and can play and romp with the best of them. Their playful attitude and active nature make them great friends for walks, swimming, and playing in the yard. The Havanese tends to be an indoor dog, but they need exercise as well.

The Havanese makes a great house pet and work well with kids. It is critical to teach your children to respect your Havanese and create a loving relationship.

2. Toy Breed

The Havanese breed is a member of the Toy group as classified by the American Kennel Club. The toy breed is small in stature which makes them wonderful apartment and house dogs. The Havanese can be a great choice for someone that lives in the city.

3. Exercise Requirements

A Havanese dog loves to curl up on the couch with you. However, they do also like to take a walk. In fact, walking should be part of their exercise plan. A Havanese will often be ready to play, but at times will want you to carry them during the walk. This can be tempting, especially because they are so cute!

Don't carry them. This will only spoil them. They need the exercise or they will become restless and irritable. A restless, bored, and irritable dog is prone to behavioral problems.

Exercise and play not only keeps your dog physically fit, but it promotes their mental health as well. Keep your Havanese happy and healthy with games, walks, and a good belly rub.

4. Great Family Dog

A Havanese can make a wonderful family dog. This breed is good with children if you train and socialize them properly. They have an innate need to watch over their family. They may not be able to attack an intruder, but they can let you know with a bark that an intruder is present.

Fiona Kelly is a passionate Havanese owner that has devoted countless hours sharing her secrets on how to have the perfect, happy, healthy and best behaved Havanese. If you're interested in the Havanese then you can check out her web site at http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com. The Author grants you permission to re-print or re-publish this article so long as it remains unchanged and all links remain present and active.

If you would like to learn more about the Havanese Breed, visit http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

What Type Is The Right Collar For Your Dog

Writen by Mike Steele

There are many styles of collars to choose from depending upon your dog's size, disposition, as well as your personal needs. For many dogs, a traditional nylon or leather collar will suffice. However, there are collars for more specific situations as described below.

Traditional Collars: Traditional collars are available in numerous colors, styles, and widths. These collars should ride higher on your pet's neck. Don't use collars that are too loose, falling down towards your pet's shoulder blades. When choosing a collar use a tape measure to determine your pet's neck size, adding about two to three inches to insure proper fit.

When choosing a collar make sure it is snug allowing enough room to fit two fingers between your pet's neck and their collar. For safety reasons, a collar should never be loose enough to slip over the pet's head. The risk of losing a pet that slips away can increases when their collar is too loose. Also, loose collars may easily snag on objects, increasing the risk of accidental hanging and other trematic injuries as a result of being entangled due to loose collars. In addition it is important that collars are not worn in wire cages. Be sure your pet's collar is not too tight which can restrict their breathing or cause coughing. Make sure you check the collar size frequently with your puppies.

Choose a collar and lead with the appropriate width that matches your pet's size. Smaller, lightweight collars and leads are for small dogs and puppies, while wider, more durable styles are for larger, stronger pets. Be sure you have a current nametag attached to your pet's collar at all times.

Harnesses: Harnesses, will go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs, are generally recommended for dogs who have upper respiratory disease as well as diseases of the throat or trachea. If a collared dog pulls on their leash, it places pressure on the throat and trachea, which can cause irritation and coughing. Harnesses are an excellent choice to help relieve that pressure.

Halter Collars ensure the best control over your dog. Giving you control of your dog's head. Controlling your dog's head, gives you control of your dog. Many brands of halter-type collars are available including the Halti Training Headcollar. These collars have a band that goes around the back of their head, and another band around their nose. These leashes snap onto the collar under the dog's chin. When pulling on the leash, your dog's head will pull down or to the side, makeing it next to impossible for your dog to move ahead or pull you forward.

Slip (Choke) Collars: Slip collars, also called "choke collars," provide effective training and retraining methods when used correctly. Many times these collars are used for dogs whom are stubborn, pull when lead, or for those that do not respond well to training when wearing other collars. If you need to use a choke collar, make sure you how to use it correctly. If not, have a trainer assist you in demonstrating its proper use. Using a choke collar correctly involves a quick 'tug-and-release' action which tells your pet a different behavior is desired. Only utilize these collars when training, making sure it is not worn in a crate, while avoiding use on pets with delicate tracheas.

Prong Collars: Prong Collars contain blunt prongs that face inward from the collar links. Designed solely for the most stubborn of pullers, they are a temporary training tool designed to change behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other type of collar. Unfortunate if they are necessary, we've found it best to make sure your training methods are being utilized correctly, which at times can eliminate the need to use this type of collar. However, there are situations and/or dogs that may require this type of collar, to insure the training is as effectual as possible.

Mike Steele

http://www.dog.com

Monday, December 22, 2008

The Curlycoated Retriever

Writen by Michael Russell

The Curly-Coat is a retriever of great ability in the water and on land. He is descended from a cross between the St. John's Newfoundland (presently known as the Labrador Retriever) , the English Water Dog and the Poodle. He became extremely popular among the English land-owners of the nineteenth century and was prized as a multi-purpose hunting retriever with great perseverance on land as well as strength in the water. With the arrival of the twentieth century, the popularity of the Curly-Coat gave way to other retrieving breeds. Today it still remains popular in Australia and New Zealand. This is a dog with great power in the water when it comes to retrieving. I have personally seen a Curly -Coat that has brought in without hesitation a wounded Canada Goose, no small feat. He is a natural swimmer if introduced to the water at an early age to water play. There is not always an inherent desire to swim, at least without an introduction, because the Curly Coat has also been used for years as a hunting dog on land.

The Curly-Coat is Black or Liver in color. The tight curls are an essential requirement, they must be a dense mass of small tight curls. This type of coat is extremely weather proof and water resistant and also is a protection against brambles and thickets. Every part of the dog is covered with these dense curls except the muzzle and the toes.

The Sporting dogs, especially the retrieving breeds, are usually thought of in terms of active personalities and very outgoing, to the extent that they are not often good watch dogs. The Curly-Coat however is not only a quiet and placid home companion but is also a good watch dog, giving voice when strangers approach. It is a persistent hunter, does not give up and is eager and alert in the field. At home it is somewhat aloof but is calm and dignified. Of course a puppy, as with any youngster, will be exuberant and will get into things, but as a general rule the Curly-Coat has a certain common sense and placid nature that makes it quite content to lie about the house and sleep. It does not demand the attention that some of the other retrievers do.

This is a dog that is quite healthy in most respects. However there are some particular bloodlines that appear to have predisposition to Cancer and there is also a skin condition associated with pattern baldness. This is an outdoor type of dog and he does need plenty of exercise. If he is to be used for hunting it is essential that he be adjusted to the physical demands and in good condition. If allowed to lie around he will take the opportunity. If he is to be a house dog, he still needs to get out and go for good long walks. This is a breed that has the stamina to be a "jogger's dog" and he delights in participating in this activity with his owner.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Ive Got A Horse Now What

Writen by Belinda Osgood

Ever since I was a little girl, I hoped and prayed for a horse to call my own. It became a ritual every birthday and Christmas that I would first check the property for a horse tied up to the plum tree, or stabled in the garage with the family sedan. Of course, I was totally naïve as to the expense of owning a horse and so I was always disappointed. Somewhere in my teens I gave up on the dream. So it was at the more mature age of 31 that my dream was finally realised and I became the owner of a precious baby girl (well, 14-year-old ex-Pacer, Standardbred mare). But to me she was my new baby and she came with the most perfect name, Angel.

So here was my dream, in living colour, high spirits and dignified stubbornness. I ... well I was an untrained and inexperienced, though willing, Mum of one huge equine. I had no gear and even less of an idea. So began my training to become a suitable mum for my beloved dream come true.

The first step was to read books; lots of them. However none of them can physically prepare for the task of caring for a horse. I learned a lot since obtaining Angel, because I just had to get out there and do it, or ask someone else how to do it. I have a lot more to learn yet and I find it a rewarding and exciting path. This article provides some basics for anyone considering getting a pony or horse or who has just landed that dream and does not know where to start, just as I began my journey.

It is important that you talk to experts such as your vet and local horse club for professional advice. Other helpful tips and suggestions can be obtained through talking to horse owners, phoning or visiting the local pony club, or joining a horse forum on the Internet. Horse people love to talk about horses.

There are numerous breeds of horses available. You will need to look for an animal that has the correct temperament, abilities and height. Breeds such as thoroughbreds are tall and can be too high-spirited for a beginner. A Standardbred, like Angel, has an unusual gait (movement) which is uncomfortable until you are used to it. Look at the history of the horse - is it flighty, can it handle traffic noise, how old is it, does it have scars or uneven hoof wear which could indicate lameness? There are numerous things to look at, so if you can,have a knowledgeable and experienced person available to help you choose, there is a much better chance of a happy horse- rider relationship.

Once you have the horse or pony, the first, and most obvious concern, is where to keep your new pet. Horses require a lot of grazing, fresh water and room for exercise. Alternatively you can stable a horse just like you would send a dog to a kennel for a holiday. It depends on where you live and what your budget is like as to which is the most suitable option. When I got Angel, I spent months trying to find grazing for her, all to no avail. The former owners kindly let me keep her on at their farm, but most people selling or giving away a horse will not want to do this. Prepare yourself for a lot of telephone time and legwork checking out any vacant paddocks around your area. Look for a paddock that is well fenced, has a working water trough or natural flowing water, and ideally some form of shelter from weather extremes. This could be as simple as a shelterbelt or hedge. Also take note of any poisonous plants such as hemlock, buttercup, oak or foxglove, and any debris like tin cans, broken glass or hidden branches. These can all harm your horse.

Now that your horse has a place to stay, you will be wondering what to feed him. A grazing horse has fewer needs than a stabled horse, but may still require extra feed such as hay and oats during winter, and a salt lick, especially during summer. What you feed your horse depends on how much work they are doing, what temperament they have, and their condition, therefore professional advice should be obtained. A stabled horse relies on what you feed it so it will need a larger supply of hay, grains and dry pellets. An apple or carrot is good for your horse too, whether stabled or grazing. When feeding a carrot make sure to cut it lengthwise as small circular pieces can choke them. Remember the water, fresh and plenty of it as a horse can drink up to 55 litres per day.

Now housed and fed the health of your horse is the next priority to ensure their happiness and your enjoyment. To this end your horse will need to be regularly groomed, wormed and be seen by a farrier.

Grooming: A grazed horse requires less grooming than a stabled horse because the natural oils in the coat help protect them from the weather. The most basic grooming required is to pick out their hooves to remove stones, which can cause bruising or lameness, and to remove mud and manure; a brush down with a curry comb to remove mud; and combing the mane and tail to remove knots and foreign matter. To brush a horse, use very firm strokes that won't tickle him. Horses have ticklish spots just like our feet. If the horse starts twitching or becomes restless as a particular area is groomed that might signal a ticklish spot, and could result in a 'pay-back' nip from the horse.

To pick out the hooves, stand beside your horse and run your hand down the back of their leg. Most horses will raise the leg for you. Hold the hoof firmly and pick it out from the heel to the toe, avoiding the soft frog area (triangular middle piece). There is much more to grooming, but starting with these basics will ensure a happy comfortable horse. It will also provide you confidence in working around your horse. As you gain assurance and knowledge you can move onto other areas.

Worming: It is essential that this be done regularly, every six to eight weeks. Horses can ingest worms through the grass and hay they eat, so cleaning up manure in the paddock helps stop the spread of worm eggs and other parasites. Your vet should be consulted for the size of the dosage and the frequency as it will vary according to the gender, age and state (e.g. pregnancy) of the horse.

Farrier (Blacksmith): Your horse will need to be seen by a farrier every six to eight weeks to have their hooves trimmed. If the horse is wearing shoes then it may need loose or worn shoes to be fixed or replaced. Lack of regular attention on the hooves can lead to lameness, potentially resulting in permanent injury. Their hooves are just like human fingernails -growing rapidly and prone to chip, break, crack or split. If the horse is ridden frequently and on hard surfaces, shoes are required so that the hooves do not wear down too quickly.

After all of the above, only the primary needs of your horse have been attended to. There is much more, but as with my experience, it can be learned as you go along. There is one aspect that I haven't discussed and that is the exercising, or riding, of your horse.

Some horses may come with their own gear or a local horse-owner may have some spare gear you could borrow, lease, or buy. The very minimum you will need is a lead-rope and halter so that you can catch and tie up your horse. For riding, starter saddle kits are available at a very reasonable price but will invariably not last as long as a more expensive set. Talking to your local saddler will help you unravel the somewhat confusing needs of saddle size and style, girth size, leather type and care. An essential item that you will need to invest in is a good riding helmet. I advise to get brand new over second hand so that you can guarantee its safety has not been compromised. A lunge rope and whip for non-riding exercise is good for your horse too. I use a cheap towrope purchased from the local service station as a lunge rope, so do look for alternatives to the expensive custom-made items. A lunge whip is not terribly expensive at the saddlers.

Horse care is a satisfying aspect of owning a horse. I hope that you can share in the enjoyment of horse ownership and the creation of a bond between horse and rider that is formed as you care for your dream.

Belinda Osgood is a full-time writer working from her home in a small rural township in the South Island of New Zealand. Passions include her pets, craft and rock-hounding. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Teach Your Dog To Come On Command When Called

Writen by Jon Dunkerley

Teaching your dog to come on command to you is as simple as:

1) Making it worth your dog's time and effort to come to you

2) The understanding that if he/she does not come to you, there will be consequences Analogy:

When you the parent tell your child to do something, 9 times out of 10, your child will obey you. Why is this? It is as simple as saying, that your child knows that by not doing what you the parent ask, they are more than likely heading for some sort of disciplinary act. The child by no means begrudgingly obeys you. Usually the child will be quite happy doing what you ask of him/her. The same can be said for your relationship with your dog. By not installing pack seniority with your dog, your dog will walk all over you, control you doing what he likes when he wants. Your dog understands pack seniority, he/she will obey you readily and happily knowing that only good things will happen. (praise, treating)

Being authoritative when dealing with your dog is not cruel or mistreatment, it is a case of you the dominant figure, conveying to your dog that if not obeyed, you the Alpha will react accordingly in order to attain the desired result. In the wild, when a pack member is out of line, the Alpha punishes the individual either by nipping, pinning down, etc. We as humans have taken the place of the wild Alpha and we must continue to implicate behavior that is already in the dog's bloodline.

When you call your dog, make sure you are ready to react to what your dog's actions are. At first your dog will not even know what the command is, so punishing him/her for not obeying is not an option!

Below are points to follow:
-When starting to teach the come command, have your dog on a leash.
- Utter the command and gently but firmly pull the dog to you.
- Praise and treat.
- Upon comprehension, continue these actions progressively lengthening the distance that your dog has to travel to reach you.
- If need be at first, you can show the treat to your dog to entice the desired result.
- Upon moderate success, you can throw in distractions to tempt your dog.

- If adding distractions that your dog is fooled by, your "gentle firm" pull should become firmer.
- To test the level of comprehention, give the command and wait for your dog to react. If the reaction is positive, then guiding with the leash is not necessary.
- Upon comprehension, your "gentle firm" pull can cease.
- Always, always reward good behavior.

The frequency of which you practice this exercise, will determine the speed at which your dog learns the command. Your intent is to convey to the dog that coming to you when you call him is the best thing in the world, and if done properly you will attain a crisp outcome sooner than later.

The understanding that if he/she does not come to you, there will be consequences

http://www.dogsbydunk.com is your one stop destination for premium dog food and premium dog training. From great products, to great resources, dogsbydunk.com is a superior unique alternative that I hope you all take full advantage of!

Friday, December 19, 2008

How To Find The Best Small Breeding Dog

Writen by Ann Born

A small breeding dog is the perfect pet for all of us who live in little cubbyhole-like apartments. Larger dogs, when stuffed into such flats, usually spend their time galloping from one end of the flat to the other in less time than you can say Indiana Jones and, with time, come to dolefully detest their utter existence. So don't bother with Retrievers and Grey Hounds, let them laze in lush green lawns of farmhouses that are ideal for them. Instead get a dear little Chihahua or a Daschund. Most small breeding dogs don't measure any more than 10 inches in height. Due to their portable size, they are…well…portable for starters..and can also adapt to smaller living quarters more comfortably.

However, before you jump the gun and run to the nearest pet store to buy one for yourself, you had better sit down and do some research about small dogs. Not all small breeds are suitable for everybody. Many of them are what are called 'Toy dogs' and they are not the right kind of dog for everyone. Also, take into account the other people in your home before deciding on the kind of small dog that you are going to get. If you have children, take the time to select the breed will be the most suitable. Some small breeds do not get along well with children and many are too fragile for rough play with children. Small dogs can often require more care and attention than larger ones, too.

Another very important point to keep in mind when considering whether or not to get a small dog is that their food requirements are minimal. Most of them eat hardly anything compared to the mountain of food you have to give bigger dogs. And while that sounds like a good deal it is also a point of concern. This is because, despite their low consumption of food, their nutritional requirements are by no means less than other varieties of dogs. So a lot of attention needs to be paid to what they eat and how much they eat. Your level of attention will quite literally strongly affect your small dog's health and development.

Finally, here is a brief list of some of the dogs acknowledged by the American Kennel Club as Small Dogs.

Maltese (belonging to the toy group).
Manchester Terrier (belonging to the terrier group).
Miniature Bull Terrier or Mini Bull (belonging to the terrier group).
Miniature Pinscher (belonging to the toy group).
Miniature Schnauzer (belonging to the terrier group).
Harrier (belonging to the hound group).
Havanese (belonging to the toy group).

To that, we add a few more breeds you might want to consider:

· Scottish Terrier
· Yorkshire Terrier
· Pug
· Chihuahua
· Poodle
· Dachshund
· Pekingese
· Shih-Tzu
· Welsh Corgi
. Toy Poodle

Get all of your dog information at http://yougodog.com

Copyright 2006 @ Ann Born http://yougodog.com No part of this article may be reproduced in any manner without including the author's bio.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Extra Baggage

Writen by Ryan Joseph

We all packed on a few extra pounds during the holidays and now it is the time to shed that extra luggage the way a German Shepherd shed's it's coat in the summer. We all know that our Country is suffering from an obesity epidemic. And Somehow this epidemic is even affecting our pets also.

In the mid 1990's, for example, research studies showed that some fifteen percent of our animals were overweight. Now it is about forty percent. As we know from the media, those extra pounds are not ideal for our health or for the health of our beloved animals. Their growing waistlines may in fact cause them many medical concerns. Obviously, a thin animal is much more likely to live a healthier and happier life.

According to a recent research study published in the prestigious Journal of Nutrition, dogs of overweight owners are almost 3 times more likely to be overweight themselves. The same may apply to cats also. In a very real way, Our animals are our mirrors: they are chiseled and molded by our household's habits. They seem to embody our lifestyles, our decisions, and even our dreams. On a spiritual level, they sometimes even reflect our health.

So that begs the question: could the human-animal bond actually be an unhealthy thing for our pets? I mean, really, if you happen to be a couch potato, there is a strong probability that your pet may be one also. Sitting together on the couch for hours and hours, watching TV and constantly consuming snacks and treats is promoting a sedentary lifestyle for both you and your pet.

So let us explore this avenue. Does the increase in pet obesity have to do with some sort of subtle spiritual connection between pets and humans? Or is it just something more tangible? This much is true though: animals are awesome copy cats (no pun intended).

So as we rummage through our brains for our New Year's resolutions, let us keep our animals in mind and turn the human-animal bond back into the positive thing it was supposed to be.

How do you know if your animal is overweight? Just pllace your hands on his or her rib cage with your palms facing down. If the ribs are easily felt, your pet is considered to be normal weight. If you can feel more than about one inch of skin and fat between the ribs or if the ribs are difficult to feel, your pet is indeed overweight.

Ryan Joseph is a researcher and writer. For Pet Nutrition information visit Life's Abundance Premium Dog Food as well as Life's Abundance Premium Cat Food.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Dog Hats

Writen by Pamela Chao

While Gaston, a seven-year-old pooch was wearing his dog hat striding down the parking lot of the local university with pride, two ladies with astonished voices exclaimed, "Oh my gosh, look at that dog in that hat!" In fact, it wasn't the first time that he caught the attention and admiration of others.

Do you own a dog hat or ever had your dog wear one? Hats are perhaps one of the most popular accessories that are sold and being used on a daily basis. The reason for wearing a hat varies from culture to culture and person to person. Whether it is for protection, political, social ranking, or fashion usage, headwear has emerged from its history and become a fashion that stays.

World's Oldest Hat
The history of the hat can be traced back to the hunter-and-gathering era when the hat was used primarily for protection from the extreme weather. According to BBC dated 25 April, 2000, "Woven clothing may date back at least 27,000 years, according to archaeological evidence left by Stone Age hunter-gatherers… After discovering the impressions on the clay fragments…a number of "Venus" figurines found in Europe…Many appeared to be wearing clothing including basket hats and caps, sashes and belts."

Underneath the Hat
According to the Dictionary of Idioms, wearing a hat is associated with "keep something secret," this expression came from the late 1800s. Although the earliest artifacts depicted women (the Venus clay figure) were the one to wear hats. However, in our contemporary society, more men wear hats than women.

As time passed, keeping something under the hat still stands. Movies depict a spy trying to hide his face under a hat, and, in real life, celebrities covering their faces with hats in hopes not to be recognized. Now that hats have become an integral part of our lives, it carries symbolic meaning. Through wearing, we send out our sense of belonging and who we are. The baseball hat, for example is more than just a hat. It gives you a clue of that particular person who wears it. If you pay attention to the symbol in front of the baseball hat, it may have a story behind it, whether it is a particular group or activity, the symbol can be a profession, sports team, name of a famous designer, or just simply a phrase to express the inner self.

A Complete Mini Me
Now hats have extended to dogs as well. The movie Legally Blonde captured girls hearts with that "mini-me" look. The movie portrait how Elle (Reese Witherspoon), the Harvard-educated lawyer cherishes her little companion, she even accessorized her little pooch with the matching pink dress and hat. The hat certainly adds a dazzling look. So, if you are single and open to meet people, get out there and reveal in the season's pleasures. Remember nothing is better at capturing life's most personal moments than creating your "mini me" look. Expressed "your sense, yourself." Let your attitude have an overhaul, pick a dog hat that makes you frolic.

Pamela is an animal lover, she owns her online store specializes in pet accessories. For more information, please visit PetAdorn.com

Monday, December 15, 2008

Are Aquariums Suitable For Children

Writen by William Berg

Most children are fascinated with animals and want a dog, a cat, two birds, a horse and some fish. But are fish and aquariums suitable for children. The answer to this question is to a very high degree depending on how old your child is. Children under 12-14 years are not suitable to keep an aquarium by themselves and will need help from their parents or some other adult to maintain their aquariums. The child can take care of the daily care such as the feeding of the fish. They will however require help with larger undertakings such as changing the water in the aquarium and cleaning the electrical equipment.

Small children under 5-7 years of age should not be entrusted with the care of any animal including fish. This is not to say that small animals shouldn't have pets but rather to say that the parents understand that the pet is their responsibility and not the child's. A child in this age group can benefit a lot from being allowed to interact with animal, se fish swim and feed the fish but is not ready to care for the animal themselves. As an example can be said that children off this age group only should be allowed to feed the fish when a parent is present. It isn't an uncommon event that children tries to be kind to the fish by feeding them the entire can of fish food causing a biological disaster, and if not discovered and corrected the death of all the fish in the aquarium within a matter of hours.

Small children under 5-7 years should never be allowed to change water in the aquarium or work with the electric equipment used in the aquarium due to the risk of injury.

Some parents might think that a fish is a good pet for a child since it require less care than say a dog and are cheaper. This is only partly true. A fish requires good care to remain healthy and the parents should expect that they will have to do a certain amount of work to keep their child's fish alive and healthy. True it didn't cost that much but it is still a living thing and does as such deserve to be threaded with care. Expect that an aquarium will require 5 minutes of your time each day for daily care and an hour each week for partial water changes etc.

Remember that a small aquarium requires more work than a large one. You should therefore never buy a small goldfish bowl or other small aquarium for your child. It might seem easier but requires a lot more work and only experienced aquarists should keep fish in small aquariums. I recommend an aquarium of at least 25-30 gallon (around 100 L) as a first aquarium for your child. Anything smaller will give you a lot of extra work and most likely more dead fish. A little larger aquarium also allows you the luxury to choose between more fish for your aquarium. So what fish should you choose to your child?

Some fish species are more suitable than others for children. First of, a child should never be allowed to keep toxic or otherwise potentially harmful fish species. Secondly the fish should be hardy enough to be easy to take care of, accept flake food and other easily storable foods and be calm enough not to be stressed by the children playing near the aquarium, tapping on the glass etc. Suitable fish includes many livebearers, barbs and tetras. Always buy fish that are suitable for you aquarium and don't just let your child by the fish he think is most beautiful, coolest or otherwise most appealing without considering their demands.

And don't forget that you as a parent have to do your research so that you know how to take care of an aquarium before letting your child get one. It might be your child that is getting an aquarium but you are getting the responsibility.

You can read everything you need to know about setting up and caring for an aquarium at AC Tropical Fish & Aquarium. AC Tropical Fish & Aquarium features a large amount of articles containing info on all aspects of aquarium keeping from setting up the aquarium, to diseases and fish breeding. Visit the Aquarium article archive now.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Dog History The Pit Bull Terrier

Writen by Tim Amherst

Most modern Pit Bulls are believed to be descended from European bull dogs and different breeds of mastiffs that were once used in farm work. The mastiffs were known for their strength and power, so they were primarily used to help farmers with their bulls when it was time to bring them in from the fields.

The mastiff became known as the bulldog. The dog's main purpose was to protect the farmer from being gored by an enraged bull. The dog usually accomplished this task by biting onto the bull and hanging on until the bull relented. Since these dogs were used for protection from angry bulls, they had to have tremendous strength in their jaws and bodies. They also had to be stubborn enough to hang onto a stampeding bull, no matter what the bull did to them, to protect the farmer they worked for.

As time passed, these dogs started being used in bull and bear baiting. During this time it is believed some bulldogs were also bred with terriers to help make them better suited for these sports. By mixing with the terrier breed, the dogs were smaller and a great deal more agile than the regular bulldog. They also had more muscular bodies, which helped to enhance their damage producing ability. These sports were most popular in England around the early nineteenth century. In the year 1835, English Parliament banned the sports of bull and bear baiting, stating that it was much too cruel to the animals involved. The sport lost popularity, and eventually died completely out after a few years.

Dog fighting soon took the place of the previously banned bull and bear baiting sports. Breeders began trying to produce dogs that were geared to be excellent fighters. They tried to enhance the dog's agility, strength, and musculature to make them more formidable opponents. Breeders also tried to breed the most intelligent dogs, so they would be less likely to make mistakes in fighting, and also so they would only be aggressive toward other dogs, not humans they may encounter. One of the rules of dog fighting was that the owner of the dog had to be able to enter the ring during a fight, pick his dog up, and take it completely out of the fighting ring without the dog biting him. If the dog bit the owner during this time, the dog was immediately killed.

Also in the 1800's Pit Bulls started becoming popular pets, not just for dog fighting and farming. The dog became a mascot during World War 1 and could be seen on many war posters, which helped to increase its popularity. They were popular because of their high intelligence and devotion to their masters. In the early 1900's pit bulls began being used in movies as well.

The Pit Bull is a dog with a very detailed history, and is still quite popular today. The breed does receive a lot of negative criticism, but with the right owners, still make terrific pets.

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com today.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Shih Tzu Show Dog Judging The Head Body And Hindquarters

Writen by Connie Limon

The Head:

The show dog judge will ask you to place your Shih Tzu show dog on the table. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will then get the first close look at your Shih Tzu's expression. He will be looking for proper shape and dark eyes. He will check the length of your Shih Tzu's nose. He will look for the "correct" slightly-undershot bite. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will evaluate the shape of the top of your Shih Tzu's head. He will check to see that the hair pulled up in the topknot does not alter the set and placement of the ears (all these things must be exact to the AKC standard for a Shih Tzu show dog to pass). One thing in particular the Shih Tzu show dog judge will not want to see in your Shih Tzu is any sign of fear, or if your Shih Tzu turns its head away. The expressions of fear or turning the head away would indicate "shyness." "Shyness" would be considered a fault of the AKC show Dog Shih Tzu standard.

The Shih Tzu show dog judge will look at the ear leather. He may raise the ears to check the length and thickness of the neck and to see if the neck is well placed on the shoulders. These are areas also that must be in compliance with the AKC standards of a Shih Tzu show dog. The Shih Tzu show dog judge may trace the angulation of the shoulders with his hands and the placement of the front legs beneath the body is checked. A Shih Tzu show dog judge may lift the dog up gently and let it down to see how well the Shih Tzu lands on its feet. He may check the thickness of the pads of the feet as well.

The Body:

The Shih Tzu show dog judge will check to see if the Shih Tzu is in good weight, not to thin or too fat. The weight is measured on a scale of 9 to 16 pounds as being appropriate for the Shih Tzu show dog. Under or over this weight would be a fault.

The Hindquarters:

The Shih Txu show dog judge will check your Shih Tzu's tail to see if it is set properly according to the AKC standard for tail set. The tail must be carried over the body to the correct degree. Angulation of hind legs is checked and a check for the strength of the hindquarters is also made at this time. An indication of weakness when the hocks are lightly "twanged" or evidence of cow hocks would be noted as a fault in your Shih Tzu. The hocks should be strong when moved gently back and forth. If your Shih Tzu is a male, this is the point in which the judge will count testicles. There must be two testicles present or the male Shih Tzu will be disqualified.

There are strict standards of correct conformation of the head, body and hindquarters, as well as other aspects of the Shih Tzu that must be met during the Shih Tzu show dog judge's evaluation. Further information regarding these requirements can be obtained from the American Kennel Club either by writing to them directly or from the AKC official website.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Friday, December 12, 2008

Skin And Gill Flukes In Tropical Fish

Writen by Nate Jamieson

While parasites of various types are often responsible for fish rubbing themselves against objects in the tank, sometimes to the point of causing raw skin, it can be difficult to identify which parasite it is, unless you have a very good visual of it.

In the case of skin fluke, which is a parasitic flatworm, they are unlikely to show themselves to the extent where you would be able to remove them manually as you can with leeches or fish lice. One of the common denominators they have with other parasite infections, is they can cause redness of skin, but so can rubbing against stones and wood. However, skin fluke also causes a fading of color, and because the treatment is common to other types of parasites, you are best to go with a general medication, such as Droncit or formalin baths, when unsure whether it is skin fluke or not. Remove severely affected fish to a hospital tank.

The standard treatments of adding 1 tbs. of aquarium salt to a daily change of water in the home aquarium, and raising the tank temperature by four degrees also applies. This is used for most parasites, including gill fluke, which has more obvious and visual symptoms.

Gill fluke is a worm that specifically attacks the gill membranes, causing them to turn red and acquire a coating of slime that makes it difficult to breathe. Fish will hang at the water's surface, gasp, and lose weight rapidly. The same tank treatments as skin fluke can be used, but with gill fluke, removing to a hospital tank and adding short baths in either formalin, salt or ammonium hydroxide to the regimen will help kill what is on the fish, and you can then treat their environment.

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Chronic Ear Infections In Dogs

Writen by Shawn Messonnier

Chronic ear infections are among the most commonly seen disorders in pets. Often they occur in certain breeds, including spaniels and retrievers. I regularly consult with owners who have treated their pets for years with various medications. The ears improve during treatment, but quickly relapse once treatment stops. With time the treatment ceases to work since the bacteria and yeasts which cause the infections have built up resistance to the drugs.

It's very important to determine the cause of the infection so that proper treatment can be selected. Only a microscopic examination (cytology) of the ear discharge can tell us this. If chronic bacterial infections occur, ear cultures plus oral medications (in addition to ear drops) are needed. In my practice, most ear infections are the result of yeasts; pets treated incorrectly with antibiotics (drops or oral medicines) will never get better and will in fact worsen. Keep in mind that certain breeds of dogs are prone to ear infections and also allergies (which are a common reason for chronic ear problems.) Unless the allergies are correctly treated (and not with just repeated doses of steroids!,) your dog's ear problems will never go aware.

Here's what I suggest for the pet with chronic ear problems. Get the correct diagnosis. Treat underlying problems such as allergies. The ears should be flushed (and anesthesia will probably be needed) before you treat them with the appropriate drops. I've had success with various supplements (olive leaf, Echinacea, etc.) in treating chronic ear problems. Once the problem is corrected, regular ear cleaning (several times a week at a minimum) must be done to prevent frequent recurrences.

Dr. Shawn Messonnier is the author of 8 Weeks to a Healthy Dog, The Allergy Solution for Dogs, and the award-winning The Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats. Dr. Shawn is the medical consultant for Pet Togethers, a pet supplement company.

http://www.pettogethers.net/healthypet

http://www.petcarenaturally.com

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Weave Poles Which Method Should I Use For My Dog

Writen by Brad Carlson

Weave Poles can be the most challenging obstacle for you to teach and for your dog to learn. Many agility obstacles resemble natural obstacles that dogs could find out on a hike out in the woods, jumps, frames, and tunnels. Going over, under, or through things and places are natural for dogs,however, weaving the poles is not.

How do you teach an unnatural skill........with lots of patience, the right motivators for your dog, and a plan. There are many great methods to teach the weave poles. If you've gone to agility camps with several top instructors, you know that most have their own method . So, there is not one method that is the best or one method that produces the best weaving dog.

There are many methods of teaching weave poles. Some of these include, the Push-Pull method, the Angled Weave Approach, Chute Training, Two-Pole Method, Gate method, and more..........

How do you decide on which method to choose? Research each method and find out what you like about it and what you don't. What method are they teaching at your agility school? Most handlers just starting agility will teach the method being presented at their facility. If you attend a large agility school, sit in on some of the advanced classes and watch the skilled dogs weave. Ask those individuals how they taught their dog to weave. Most instructors have a preference of weave training, it may be the method they are teaching or it may not be.

Once you decide on a method, get the poles you want and then, outline a plan to train 5 minutes a day on weaves. Five minutes a day will take your dog much further than once a week in class. If you are into agility and want to progress, the weave poles are an absolute must to have at home.

Get your dog, grab his motivators, take a deep breath and go have fun for five minutes a day.

Brad Carlson is a dog trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at http://www.carlson-agility.com/

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Worming Your Dog

Writen by J. Howard Moore

Regular worming is essential to protect your dog against internal parasites. This involves giving it preparations in liquid or tablet form. Adult dogs should be wormed at least once a year, and at least once every six months if in contact with children. Dogs showing any signs of infection should be wormed immediately and all breeding bitches should be wormed prior to mating.

Roundworms.
Several of these parasites affect dogs but the most important are the ones that belong to the Ascarid family, and live in the small intestine. Other roundworms infest the large intestine, blood vessels and respiratory tract. Ascarids feed on digesting food in the dog's gut, and are particularly harmful to puppies. They penetrate a puppies gut wall and pass via the blood to the liver and then to the lungs. From there they crawl up the trachea to be coughed up and swallowed, again ending up in the gut. Infected puppies may develop :-

Hepatitis, pneumonia, fits, and obstruction to the gut, so regular treatment is vital.

As the puppy gets older most of the worms travel to the muscles, where they form cysts. These lie dormant until the puppy bitch becomes pregnant. They then migrate to the puppies lungs, and this is why virtually every puppy is born with roundworm, and must be wormed regularly.

How Roundworms Affect Humans.
These worms can infect humans, and in a very low number of cases, cause disease. Good hygiene and common sense concerning children and puppies should control the problem.

Tapeworms.
The tapeworm tickle the dog's anus and make the dog drag it's rear end along the floor. If you see any worm segments in your dog's faeces, treat it as soon as possible.

As a dog lover myself, I treat my own pets at least twice a year. Worming tablets can be bought cheaply at your local supermarket or petshop, so there's no excuse for not treating your own pet on a regular basis.

Thank you for reading my article. I do hope it's been helpful.

Author John H Moore - please use my link
http://www.pet-dog-cat.com

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Train A Cat To Listen

Writen by Rajeev Kumar B

Cats cannot be discipline as you would a dog. With a dog they are social dominant that can be trained to have you as the dominant one. The reason that cats will not react as a dog is that cats have social groups only by respect and social groups.

Physical punishment on cat will only result in the cat fearing you. So never, hit your cat or any physical punishment.

Train your cat to have appropriate behaviors and that they cannot do the inappropriate behaviors as you will not tolerate this type of behavior. Cats do not like surprises; an advantage that you will have on the cat, in order to be able to train by using surprise noises. Use clapping, firm voice "NO", hissing, or water bottle to have your cat stop the unwanted behaviors. For these to be effective you must do a surprising sound immediately when the unwanted behaviors are being done. Seconds later or even when you come home and find the unwanted behavior done is not going to be effective as doing it as soon as the cat starts the unwanted behavior.

Never rub the nose of the cat. Use the face push method, pushing the palm of you hand in the cats face. This is a great way to let your cat know that biting is not acceptable, if you have a cat that is biting. Simply push the cats face back gently, do not hit the cat.

Some behaviors will not be able to train. Childproofing might be the solution to that behavior. Small plastic container, keep the valuable breakables out of reach, find our of reach places for the dangerous items so your cat cannot reach and get into them. Make sure all items that the cat might be able to get on if there is a climbing or a jumping problem is secure.

Pet stores do offer assorted sprays, creams, powders, scents, and other items to help with the training your cat. Catnip is available in different forms to help with having your cat know some of it territory. Scat mats are mats that have very little current that runs on a battery. These are great for on the counter, couch, or anything that the cat has been jumping on when your presents is not in that room. Scents in sprays and creams for furniture, litter boxes and other item that help deterrent your cat from. So they will use a scratching pole.

Place fabric that is lose woven down, or netting cats does not like to have their nails snag. Rubbing lemon, bitters, cayenne pepper, orange peelings on items that the cat is not allow playing with. Put foil paper around plants so that your cat is not digging in the dirt. Cats do not like the feel or noise from the foil paper.

Toys for actives are also import for you to help with behaviors. If you do not supply actives for the cat to do you will not be able to train your cat. Toys with catnip in them are great, scratching poles, ropes, and hoops for jumping through. You can be crafty and make items that the cat would like to play with.

Starting to train a cat when it is young is the best way, this is the easiest with you and with the cat. Less stress, your cat will learn the good behaviors easier, and you can get a handle on the natural bad behaviors.

Once of the best things to make sure that your cat is ready to train is take him to the vet for a check up and make sure he has had his shot. This is important; as if your cat is ill, you will not be able to train your cat. Also, for the groomer to maintain his fur and nails. Both of these are great to for the social part of training. Your cat will need to see these people on regular bases and if started right away, will help with the training.

Most of all Patience, love and caring for your cat will be a great gift that you can do for the training. They will love you back.

Author is the editor of Special Feature section of newkerala.com, the Online newspaper published from India. Read more articles by the author at http://www.newkerala.com

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Pit Bull Terrier Dog Training Lessons From An Expert

Writen by Tim Amherst

The number one, most basic dog training command is sit and come. Teaching your American Pit Bull Terrier these two commands is extremely important for him to learn. Both of these basic obedience training commands are used for many different reasons such as in competition or dog show and keeping him behaved when you have company. When walking your Pit Bull off leash, you expect him to come to you when called, not run around the park with you chasing after him shouting at him to "come back here!". When I see this (and I do all the time), it just makes me laugh.

Teaching your Pit Bull Terrier how to come isn't difficult, it simply requires repetition. All dogs learn by repeating the desired activity over and over again. The easiest way to get your Pitbull to come is to hold a toy in one hand and a treat in the other. When you are in the yard simply walk away from him, holding out the toy and excitingly calling him to you. When your well-behaved Pit Bull comes to you, give him the treat! Make sure to be consistent and always use the exact same training commands that you are going to use in the future. Repeating this several times a day is an excellent way to teach him, but remember to use lots of long breaks between training sessions so he doesn't get bored and don't forget to reward him with those doggie treats.

Getting your Pit to sit could prove to be slightly harder but again, is still only basic dog training that anyone can do. Once you have mastered the come command, call your Pit over to you, place your hand on the end of his back and roll right over his rump and into the back of his legs, giving the "sit" command while gently pushing his legs forward. When he sits properly, give your Pitbull a treat and lots of praise. If you would like him to sit for a longer period of time, simply delay the treat and praise, tell him to "stay", and take your time bending down to him to deliver the treat.

Basic dog training for your Pit is very simple and effective. Please remember to keep the exercise fun for both you and your dog and keep in mind that a training session shouldn't last for hours and hours, keep them short. Lastly, don't forget to reward your obedient Pit for all of his hard work!

To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Friday, December 5, 2008

An Overview Of Dog Shows

Writen by Connie Limon

Puppy classes are for Shih Tzu nine months of age and over but under twelve months. The Shih Tzu must be whelped in the U.S.A.

The Novice class is for Shih Tzu six months of age and over. The Shih Tzu must be whelped in the U.S.A. or Canada and havenot prior to the closing entries won three first prizes in the Novice Class, a first prize in Bred-by-Exhibitor, American-Bred or Open Class, nor one or more points toward a championship title.

The Bred-By-Exhibitor Class is for Shih Tzu whleped in the U.S.A. which are six months of age and over, not champions and who ar owned wholly or in part by the person or the spouse of the person who was the breeder or one of the breeders of record. Shih Tzu entered into this class musdt be handled by an owner or by a member of the immediate family of an owner.

The American-Bred class is for all Shih Tzu except champions six months of age or over, whelped in the U.S.A. by reason of a mating that took place in the U.S.A.

The Open class is for any Shih Tzu six months of age or over, except in a member specialty club show held for only American-Bred Shih Tzu in which case the class is for American-Bred Shih Tzu only.

Winners Dog and Winners Bitch: After the above classes have been judged, the first place winning Shih Tzu are required to compete in the ring. The male Shih Tzu judged "Winners Dog" is awared the points toward his championship title.

Reserve Winners are selected immediately after the Winners dog. In case of a disqualification of a win by the AKC, the Reserve Dog (male Shih Tzu) movers up to Winners and receives the points. After the male Shih Tzu classes are judged, the bitch Shih Tzu classes are called.

Best of Breed or Best of Variety Competition is limited to Champions of Record or Shih Tzu dogs (with newly acquired points, for a 90-day period prior to AKC confirmation) which have completed championship requirements, and the Winners Dog Shih Tzu and Winners Bitch Shih Tzu (or the dog award Winners if only one Winners prize has been awarded), together with any undefeated dogs which have been shown only in non-regular classes; all compete for Best of Breed or Best of Variety (if the bred is divided by size, color, texture or length of coat hair, etc.).

If your Shih Tzu wins his class, the rule states: You are required to enter classes for Winners, Best of Breed and Best of Winners (no additional entry fees).

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Training Your Puppy How To Stop Him Digging His Way To Freedom

Writen by Phillipa Baxter

Let's have a look at a natural canine behavior that drives us crazy.

All dogs have an instinct to dig – in the wild they do it to bury their food so no-one else gets hold of it. They dig when they're too hot, because the soil below the surface is cooler. Females will dig if they're pregnant (or have a phantom pregnancy) because they're making a safe den to have the puppies in. And some breeds, like all Terriers, are bred to dig.

So what can we do about it?

Starting with the bored dog – a topic which I've covered quite a bit. Boredom leads to a lot of the behavioural problems we see in our dogs. There is no substitute for spending time together playing, walking, and just generally 'hanging out'. Any dog left alone in a garden will eventually start digging.

The hot dog syndrome is also quite easy to solve - just try to keep him as cool as you possibly can. Especially if he has a heavy coat. If he has an outside kennel or dog house, put it under a tree – or a spot in the garden that never gets any direct sun if you can.

If that's not practical, you may have to keep him indoors if it's very hot.

For those of us without air conditioning in our homes, keep him in the coolest room with as many open windows as you can. You can also set up one of those small desk fans close to his crate or bed. Make sure he can't get at the power cable or the fan blades – and don't forget to 'introduce' him to the noise it makes.

Always provide plenty of cool drinking water for him – but NEVER give him ice.

If you know your lady dog is having pups, or she thinks she is – she should stop digging if you provide her with a whelping box in a good secure place that she believes is out of view.

If your dog is digging to bury his food, don't let him eat outside – or with the door to the garden open while he eats.

The most difficult cause of digging for us to pinpoint, relates to your dog's amazing sense of smell. The reason he almost always goes straight for the new shrub you've just planted is that he can smell your scent there; and the general scent of the area has changed because of the new plant. He'll do the same thing if you have someone else tend your garden, because he'll pick up the 'stranger's' scent.

There are also many 'wild' animals in urban areas these days. Your garden may be used by foxes, hedgehogs, or other small mammals, during the night – your dog will smell all of them when you let him out in the morning. He'll start digging to look for them.

Hounds, or any kind of dog bred with an exceptional sense of smell, will most often dig by your fence. They can smell something outside the garden that they want to get at. Males who haven't been neutered will do this a lot to get at neighborhood females in season.

If this is your problem, make sure there are no holes in the fence either above or below the surface. If you were building a new fence, you'd put a concrete foundation layer in the ground first – but if the fence is already there, try chicken wire across the bottom. Make sure the wire goes right down into the soil as far as you can, and curve it away from the fence underground.

If all else fails, and you have the space, try giving him his own piece of the garden. Have a bone or some toys buried in it for him to 'find'. This can be great fun for the dog – especially if you join in the game.

Phillipa Baxter offers sensible, effective dog training tips that have helped over 9,000 puppy owners worldwide build strong, loving relationships with their new dog. For more useful advice you are very welcome to visit her at http://www.DogTrainingCourses.com.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Buying Your First Horse

Writen by Paul Hegarty

Buying your first horse is an exciting adventure! Whether some one is buying the horse for you or you yourself have the money to buy a horse, you ought to carefully consider several factors.

A horse is a big investment of time, money, responsibility and commitment. A horse is not simply a pet you can welcome into your home and abandon when you go on holiday. Some one has to feed and care for your horse every day.

From a very early age I was begging my parents for horse riding lessons and soon there after for my very own horse. Neither of my parents were enthusiastic to pay for a horse. I continued with riding lessons never giving up hope and dreams of one day having my own horse. A number of years passed by and I received a small inheritance that enabled me to fulfill my dream. All I thought of was the big picture, a horse in my back yard, any horse, just get me a horse!

I learned through some tough times that there is far more to owning a horse than first meets the eye. I have listed a number of questions that I have found through the years to aid me in my decisions and thus to not be so hasty and have regrets with my choice of horse.

The first aspect to consider is why are you buying the horse? "I love horses" is a great answer, but it doesn't really help you select a horse. Here are some questions to ask yourself:

What do you want to do with the horse? Do you want to simply spend your days going on trail rides (hacking/outrides)? Are you interested in competing with your horse? If so are you interested in western or English riding, jumping, dressage, eventing or showing? A horse destined for trail riding could cost far less than a horse who has the potential to be a successful competition horse. Do you want to have the horse for several years or just a horse to learn with until you can afford something better?

You also need to consider the age of the horse. Thoroughbred horses are usually under the saddle at age 2 and Warm bloods are started around 3 years. If you buy a young horse it may have only had ground work introduced such as lunging and long-reining, in which case you would need to have someone back the horse. That is to put the saddle and bridle on the horse and work up to riding the horse and teaching it to move forward. Are you experienced enough that you would not need to pay someone to do this, or do you know someone who would help you for free? The answers will make your choice easier.

Your horse guide. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Buying a Horse.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Educational DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month's e-book on "How To Spot A fraudulent Email". Grab your free copy today.

Monday, December 1, 2008

Glowlight Tetra

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Hemigrammus erythrozonus

Size: 5cm (2 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Rivers in Guyana

Remarks: These small fish prefer a well-planted aquarium and soft, acid water for breeding. They will eat their eggs.

Comments: The upper and lower halves of the peach-coloured yet translucent Glowlight Tetra are divided by a glowing red-gold line. It starts on the snout and ends at the caudal fin. It has to said that these are one of the best looking tetras in the family. Stunning to look at and very easy to keep indeed. These are an ideal starter fish for the novice aquarium fish-keeper, just starting out for the first time.

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This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.