Saturday, February 28, 2009

A Simple Secret For Horse Owners

Writen by Leslie Moore

All you need to get going is 1 Simple Secret that gets you started towards achieving your goals with your horse and in your life…

Here is the first question I want to ask all Horse Owners – Can you actually see in your mind what you want?

Too many horse owners just can't see it…

Do you see what happens to a horse owner when they don't know what they want? You also wonder where they see the plans they have with their horse? Who is there that can lead them forward if they can't see where they want to go?

As a horse owner I have found that secret!!

If you knew a very, very simple secret would you use it? I just bet you would…

Here it is! ..See your picture of what you want to achieve with your horse.

You must be able to see your very own picture of success with your horse.

You need to know what your life looks like to you. How else do you know what you want or if in fact you actually get to where you want to go???? How will you know when you get there?

We all do it – consciously and sub consciously – we visualise, we create that picture in our minds. Anything you have ever really wanted you could actually see it clearly in your mind, before you got it. That's what drove you to getting it. Part of knowing what you want is being able to see what you want. You see yourself winning the blue ribbon, completing successfully the dressage test or the course of jumps. You see yourself having the Vet say you passed the final exam at the endurance ride. You see your success!

If you can't see it, you can't reach for it….its so, so important to create that picture of success. Sit there quietly, close your eyes and look for it. Create it if you haven't already.

Everything that you do is a product of what you see – like it or not. If you don't see it you will be flat, without purpose and scattered. When the going gets a bit tough as it surely will at times, search your mind for your very own success picture and keep it in focus. It's a great pick-me-up. But more than that – you have something to reach for. If your picture is somewhat blurred – tidy it up, make it smart and desirable.

Ask any successful horse owner to tell you about their PICTURE, and they can and will tell you.

This is called VISION – this is the very first step on your pathway to success with your horse.

1 Simple Secret - Make your picture a beautiful one.

Enjoy your Horse, Leslie

About the author: Leslie Moore, a life coach and an equestrian expert with more than 40 years experience has helped many horse owners with practical advice to the commonsense day to day issues they face. For more information go to: www.alotmooresolutions.com so you to can experience a balanced and fulfilling life with your horse. Leslie helps people in all areas of their life so they may have happiness. Success coaching works!

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Nutrition Pet Food Or Junk Food

Writen by Kevin Shayne

For a long time I've felt, believed and experienced that nutrition is key to health. Junk goes in and the result is poor health. Maybe not immediately but definitely it will add up to a toxic level and cause poor health. This goes for all living things. No one or being lives forever, obviously, however we want to extend the time we have and make the time we have a healthy one.

During my hundreds and hundreds of hours research in investigating dog foods I found the most remarkable things. Some of what I found was shocking and other facts were down right disgusting. For starters, the dog food industry is totally unregulated meaning that manufacturers can, and do, put whatever they want into "food". There are documented reports of animal waste products, ground up dog carcasses, non human edible grade products, and other animal wastes put into dog foods. These acts are not myths or legends unfortunately.

Among the ingredients in about 99.99% of dog foods you find sugar, salt, corn, phosphates, artificial flavors and colorings. It appears as if the simple dog food has turned into a fast food garbage dump.

Dogs are naturally carnivores and scavengers however since their domestication they have relied on human help in the nutrition arena. As we have moved from fresh foods to processed foods so have our dogs. Just like us our dogs have now inherited human like modern diseases (from cancer, diabetes, and skin ailments to early death).

Veterinarian Dr Jane Bicks has written that dogs should be living in the range of 18-25 years old. This has been supported by friends of mine from other countries where dogs who eat "closer to the earth" commonly live to those ages. Basically we are killing our dog with processed foods.

I must admit to having certain biases based upon personal experience, knowledge about health, and what I've learned. For example, there is a lot of literature on the inability of animals to assimilate fractioned nutrition. What is fractionated nutrition? It is vitamins and supplements. Check the super market or even some of the premium dog food brands and you'll find them packed with vitamins and supplements. But, that doesn't mean they are good!

Let me explain. The processing of and extracting of "nutritional value" causes molecular differences between food and these "vitamins". The result is that the body doesn't assimilate it. Here are list of some of the things you loose with fractionated vitamins over foods: compound vitamins and minerals, trace minerals, enzymes, flavonoids, carotenoids, pigments, terpenes, chlorophyll, coenzymes, covitamins, amino acids and much more.

Animals aren't designed to consume fractionated nutrition. Animals are designed to consume food not chemicals. The concept that altered nutrition fulfills the body's requirements is false. This goes for all animals not just humans.

So, the movement toward providing dogs with raw (such as the BARF diet) and pure foods is a fantastic one. As a dog owner I know it can be rough to provide and shop for my dogs like they are humans but it is necessary for them to be healthy and live long lives.

Kevin Shayne is founder of http://www.dogcare-doghealth.com which exclusively provides information on the most desired dog health concerns. Besides over 14 years in business Kevin has advocated quality nutrition and organics for over 10 years. Additional information available:

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Buenos Aires Tetra

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Hemigrammus caudovittatus

Size: 7.5cm (3 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Plate river basin of Argentina, Paraquay, and Brazil

Remarks: It may eat soft-leaved plants.

Comments: A thin, horizontal blue line begins behind the gill-cover of this slim fish, and tapers until obscured by a darker line, ending in the centre of the caudal fin. Male colours intensify during spawning. Slightly bigger than your average tetra, so they make a good choice to mix with other small fish from the tetra family, without posing a threat to the other smaller tetra fish. As they will get along fine, and add that bit extra to your aquarium tank.

----------------------------------------

This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Different Types Of Aggression In Dogs

Writen by Stan Rawlinson

Aggression is one of the main reasons that dogs are euthanised or rehomed; at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggressive behaviour in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type of aggression; most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.

The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.

1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)

Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.

Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.

Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise

How can you tell if it is fear?

With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.

This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.

This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.

2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)

Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life

Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.

You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.

3. Frustration Aggression

Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.

This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.

As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.

4. Sexual aggression.

This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dog's necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.

5 Territorial Aggression

This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans in this regard as conspecific, and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area. Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden.

The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say "OFF" if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.

6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression

The word dominant is a dirty word in dog behavioural circles at present however if we understand the word means position and is much more complex that just aggression, then to ignore this area of conflict would be remiss. The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tiptoe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life, almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program, which stands for "Nothing in Life is Free", See my website under dominance

7. Chase or Predatory aggression

This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.

One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the trigger . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age.

Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help, however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.

It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment's include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs' perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.

However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.

As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training can also exacerbate the situation. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.

Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program. With all aggression cases, you should consider a behaviourist or a dog trainer experienced in these problems, before the problems becomes life threatening either to the dog or the person they are aggressing against.

Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener) Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine.

© Stan Rawlinson Telephone: 0208 979 2019 Mobile Number: 07976 153161 E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Why We Like Dogs Better Than People

Writen by John T Jones, Ph.D.

Why We Like Dogs Better Than People

Most dogs are less exasperating than people. Think about it:

Has your dog ever asked you for your car keys?

Has your dog ever asked you for a loan?

Has any dog borrowed your tools and then not returned them?

Has your dog ever ignored you when you come home from work? (If so, get a new dog.)

Has your dog ever not thanked you for what you do? (Well, didn't you see his tail wagging?)

Has your dog ever asked you why you want him to do unnatural things like walk between your legs while you are walking, to stand on his hind legs, to jump through your arms when you hold them like a loop, or to play dead?

Did your dog ever ask you if you wanted him to guard your property?

Dogs are perfect except I have never got one to pay board and room─except by unconditional love.

Okay, the article was rejected for too few words. Let's try a poem if I can dream one up here.

If your dog bites your hand

When you feed him,

It's not a dog,

It's a ferret.

If your dog hates your cats,

Barks all night,

And poops on your rug,

It's a dog.

That aught to do it!

The End

John T. Jones, Ph.D. (tjbooks@hotmail.com, a retired VP of R&D for Lenox China, is author of detective & western novels, nonfiction (business, scientific, engineering, humor), poetry, etc. Former editor of Ceramic Industry Magazine, Jones is Executive Representative of International Wealth Success. He calls himself "Taylor Jones, the hack writer."

More info: http://www.tjbooks.com

Business web site: http://www.bookfindhelp.com (IWS wealth-success books and kits and business newsletters / TopFlight flagpoles)

Friday, February 13, 2009

Goldfish 101

Writen by William Berg

Goldfish are hardy freshwater fish. While most people know about them, they do not necessarily know all about them. This article attempts to tell you a lot more. They originated from the Gibal Carp. Over the past 2000 years, beginning in China, Goldfish were the result of breeding and early genetic like experimentation. Unlike many other species, various genetic traits can be changed over 3-4 generations with Goldfish.

Wild "Goldfish" live in an environment of ponds, lakes, and other water holes and can be found in Moving and still water ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit / 10 to 32 degrees Celsius. The largest types of goldfish can grow to be upwards of 12 inches/ 30 cm and with weights around 5 ½ pounds / 2.5 Kg.

In the wild, their colors tend to be darker and paler which seems to be a direct result of the amount of light in their environment. Their colors actually include gold, bronze, and pink. They have a couple sub-hues of the sort too, metallic and calico.

It is time to shatter a myth, a dream about keeping goldfish. Those cute little bowls that are often sold containing goldfish are not the right environment for Goldfish. They need more room, as they can grow large and need high oxygen levels in the water. Something that is hard to maintain in a bowl. Small aquarium tanks are never wise for aquarists, as they can have more drastic (and fast) changes in the water quality. This means that the water very fast can turn toxic and kill your goldfish. You sometime hear people being proud that my new goldfish has lived for 3 or 6 month or something like that. A six month old goldfish is really nothing to be proud of as these fish can become 30 and even 40 years old with the proper care.

For a Goldfish aquarium tank, it is advisable to have a tank with a lot of surface area as that allows more water contact with the air which means more oxygen in the water. For every inch of Goldfish, you should have 30 square inches of surface area. Do not forget that they will grow, and some variety can become as large a foot / 30 cm.

Goldfish should be kept in freshwater and can in some areas be taken directly from the tap. Check with a local fish store to se if the water in your area is good enough to house fish in and use a good water preparation chemical. Make sure that new water that you add to the aquarium keeps the same temperature as the old water in the aquarium. You should always let your aquarium stand for about a week after first adding water to it before adding any fish. This process is called cycling and makes the water more suitable to support life.

Gravel on the bottom is wise, as it will help the Goldfish to feel more at home. About 1/8 inch is good. It is a good idea to avoid dyed gravel, as it might have contaminants that your Goldfish will not appreciate in terms of health.

Filtration are not, with good water changes, as necessary for Goldfish as they are with many other fish, though still a good idea and strongly recommended, as it will make your task a bit simpler and help you keep the water conditions good. The filtration will also start a current which increase the oxygen levels in the aquarium tank which is beneficial Oxygenating is a good thing as well. It will help release some harmful chemicals in the water, and helps oxygenate the water as well. A simple air stone, and pump for your Goldfish will help them live happier and healthier, and the cost are worth every penny of it.

Goldfish, like most other fish, do enjoy some environment to play in. Places to hide and find shade in. One other aspect, it is wise to have at least 2 goldfish, as they do like company. Loners in the fish world probably are not that much different from those in the human one. Do not leave your precious pet alone without someone to play with. Make sure all things in the tank are meant to be in a fish tank, and that they are clean, so they don't add harmful chemicals. Don't use any detergents to clean the fish tank and/or any part of decoration and equipment.

Lighting will help the fish to maintain the best color. Florescent Normal Output bulbs do well for Goldfish, although high output bulbs can make your goldfish colors look and be even brighter.

You should take care bringing the Goldfish home. Darkness, room temperature, and gentleness are a great idea, as they will help lessen the stress on the goldfish during the move. Another aspect is that it is wise to dim the lights before adding them to the tank to further reduce stress. Before releasing them into the tank you should let the bag float on top of the aquarium for a while. (At least 15 minutes) you should thereafter open the bag and but about a cup of water in it and than wait another 15 minutes. You should repeat this process 4 times before you release you fish in their new home. This will give the goldfish the possibility to slowly adept to the new water conditions.

Once things are up and running, you should change some of the water in the tank weekly. This helps remove stale water and clean out some debris. You should siphon about 15% of the water out and from the bottom at the gravel where the debris fall. Then replace the removed water with the fresh water, make sure that the new water has the same temperature as the water in the aquarium. If the water changes causes big changes in the water values it might stress the Goldfish.

Goldfish have special nutritional needs that are often available as "Goldfish Food." For example, Goldfish need more carbohydrates in their diet than many other fish species. It is wise to only add enough food for them to eat fully in 5 or 10 minutes. Any more will likely be waste resting at the bottom and worsen the water quality. It is better to feed them 2-3 times a day then it is once a day.

Click on the link to learn more about goldfish or some other fish species.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Learn About Lovable Lovebirds

Writen by Shari Carpenter

Lovebirds make wonderful pets. Their exquisite colors and animated personalities easily endear them to onlookers. While every bird has its own personality there are traits common to all Lovebirds which have made them a popular pet and a great choice for a first time bird owner.

Appearance

Lovebirds have perhaps the most varied coloration among the parrot species. Years of hybridizing by breeders have developed soft pastels or brilliant hues. You'll find Lovebirds in nearly any color imaginable - blues, yellows, purples, peaches and so on.

Lovebirds are also a pleasantly sized parrot for most people. They are only 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 inches and about 42-60 grams. Baby Lovebirds will be close to the size of an adult Lovebird.

Life Span

Like other parrots, Lovebirds have a long life span - although not as long as the larger species. They live 15-20 years, approximately the same life span as a cat. It is important to understand the commitment before purchasing a Lovebird.

Lovebirds Are Active Little Parrots

Lovebirds are very energetic and inquisitive. They will happily fly about or sit on your shoulder during daily activities. They are not nervous of usual activity and generally can integrate with a family of busy, noisy children with great enjoyment. Lovebirds love to play and are comical to watch whether they are playing alone splashing in their water dish or playing with your hair and sneaking into your collar.

Your best bet is to buy a hand-raised Lovebird which will be more tame than a parent-raised bird. While Lovebirds are quite fearless and should be supervised closely around other pets, they do enjoy playing with people. Gentle and consistent handling will help prevent nipping.

Lovebirds, like other birds, are born to live among a flock and so they will challenge authority for the dominant position. Sometimes headstrong, the owner of a Lovebird needs to be patient and firm. However, Lovebirds are not overly demanding in most respects and will learn to be well-behaved. They are also content to play alone for periods of time as long as they are given proper space and playthings.

Lovebirds are very intelligent and can even be 'potty' trained to go on a paper or in a trash container instead of around the house. This can make it much easier to allow your Lovebird to enjoy freedom outside the cage without the constant clean up.

Vocalizations

While Lovebirds will learn to mimic the sounds around them, including household noises and other birds, they are not known for mimicking human speech as well as other parrot species.

Despite this you will find your Lovebird to have a strong personality all its own and it will convey its moods and desires quite clearly.

Before buying your Lovebird be sure the owner or breeder can provide additional assistance in helping you settle your bird at home. You are likely to have other questions arise as a first time owner and should look for cooperation for properly learning to care for your pet Lovebird.

Permission is granted to reprint full article "as is" with author credit given below and a link back to http://www.birdwatchin.com. There are no private label resale rights available and the article cannot be modified or your name assigned to it.

Shari Carpenter is the owner of http://www.birdwatchin.com, a one-stop resource for people that love bird watching, backyard bird feeding and pet birds. http://www.birdwatchin.com covers a wide range of information, products and supplies, including the blog "Birdwatchin' Buzz Today!" It is also the place to subscribe to the free newsletter "David's Wild Bird News".

Monday, February 9, 2009

House Training For Your Golden Retriever

Writen by Charles Amith

When you begin house breaking your golden retriever, you should follow a strict routine. Before your pet is properly trained, it's very important that your gold retriever does not spend too much time outside of it's crate. If your pet is roaming around your home, you should watch it carefully. Don't be upset at your pet if it relieves itself in an unwanted area. Your pet is your responsibility!

Training your golden retriever in your home is almost like training a child. In the morning, show your dog where to go. Designate that one location for relieving him or herself. Once your pet does, praise it. Let your pet know that it has urinated or pooped in the correct place.

While your in this training process, you don't want your pet to roam wherever it wants. Neither do you want to let it outside of it's crate when it wants. When an accident happens too much, it could become a habit. Pet's don't learn from their mistakes too easily. You have act like a parent and guide your pet and avoid these accidents as much as possible. Even though your pet might not fee too comfortable going through this process, it's important that you train your pet right so the good actions become good habits.

If you give him too much freedom, your golden retriever could relieve itself on the floor. This might seem like a small thing. You could always clean up the mess and expect it to not happen so easily again. However, this is a major mistake. After you clean up the urine, you might not think that there's anything there. However, there's a good chance that your dog could smell it. This could trigger the action of peeing. So when he smell that area, your dog may identify this as the normal area to relieve itself. Having your dog relieve itself in the right location is very important.

If possible, it would be a good idea to allow your dog a passage, such as a dog door, to go outside. If you're training your golden retriever to relieve itself outside, you should use a litter box or a wee-wee pad at the designated location. If you don't have a outside passage, having wee-wee pads (also known as underpads) will be sufficient in an indoor environment. These can allow your dog to easily identify where it should go incase it has to go.

The process of house breaking your golden retriever could be time consuming, as well as frustrating. It's important that you praise your dog and follow a strict regiment. Treat him like he's a part of the family. Once your dog is properly trained, things will be much easier. So make sure your pet is properly trained!

Charles Amith is a successful Webmaster and publisher of http://GoldenRetrieverWeb.com. Charles provides informative content on taking care of your loved pet, as well as information on house training your golden retriever.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Seeing Past Cuteness When Selecting The Best Dog Breed For You Part 2 Of 3

Writen by Kathleen Newton

Are there so many great dog breeds out there that you just can't decide where to begin? If so, let's break it down and sort through all the options. In Part 2 of this 3 Part Series, we'll continue looking at the seven Groups of dogs that are acknowledged by the American Kennel Club. We'll learn what it is that brings various breeds together to form a Group. Learning about each Group will narrow down our search for the best Breed(s) for us.

How to Use this Guide: Highlight each piece of information that is most important to you and compare the number of highlighted traits when you have finished reading about each Group.

Group: Working

Group Traits: Powerfully built; Protective of owner; fearless

Likes: Structure and routine; Predictability

Dislikes: Unexpected events

Behavior Indoors: Low to moderate

Behavior Outdoors: Moderate to active

Physicality: High

Territoriality: High

Relations with Children: Good to very good (particularly family)

Relations with Strangers: Reserved

Relations with Dogs: Moderate to Dominant

Relations with Other Animals: Good

Guard dog inclinations: Moderate to High

Vocalization: Moderate (High when guarding)

Group: Terrier

Group Traits: Determined; high stamina; feisty; digger; fearless

Likes: Activity; Learning new things

Dislikes: Boredom; confinement; harsh discipline

Behavior Indoors: Active

Behavior Outdoors: Active

Physicality: High (high threshold for pain)

Territoriality: Moderate to high

Relations with Children: Poor to Good

Relations with Strangers: Poor to Good

Relations with Dogs: Moderate to Good (do well with like breeds)

Relations with Other Animals: May chase (prey drive)

Guard dog inclinations: Great watchdog, poor guard dog due to size

Vocalization: Moderate to high

Group: Toy

Group Traits: Bred to be companion; prefer favorite person; indoor only; bright problem solvers

Likes: Attention; laps; soft furniture; warmth;

Dislikes: Harsh reprimands; hectic, unpredictable environment

Behavior Indoors: Active

Behavior Outdoors: Moderate to active

Physicality: Low to moderate

Territoriality: Moderate to high

Relations with Children: Poor to Good

Relations with Strangers: Poor to Very Good

Relations with Dogs: Subordinate to good

Relations with Other Animals: Moderate to good

Guard dog inclinations: Good watchdog, poor guard dog due to size

Vocalization: Moderate to very verbal

*Note: Use this information as a general guide at best. The most we can hope to offer is a stereotypical overview of what you might be able to expect, or what you may want to look for, in dogs in each Group. Breeds and individual dogs in each Group can vary greatly in traits and personalities.

Part 3 in this series will discuss the following Groups: Herding Dogs and Non-Sporting.

The author has worked with dogs and dog people for two decades, advocating for smart selections before a new dog is brought into a home and always stressing responsible selection and ownership for the good of the dog, the family and the community. She also makes dog and cat art available to the companion animal industry and to animal lovers at http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com

Friday, February 6, 2009

How To Train Your Dog And Influence Behavior Get Your Dog To Do What You Want When You Want

Writen by Eric Letendre

When she walked into my office I tried to keep the surprised look off my face. Her eyes were black and blue and her nose was swollen beyond belief. As she sat down she started to cry and had a difficult time talking. I got her a glass of water and let her know to take her time. Once she gained control, she informed me that her dog was responsible for her broken nose and black eyes.

She went on to tell me that her dog had injured her arm and wrist and her leg. She said that she loved her dog. She also added that her dog was a large black lab and in no way aggressive. Her dog had injured her by jumping, pulling, and in general not listening to her commands. She said that the latest incident had happened a few days before. She told me that she was getting ready to walk her dog. She had put her dog on leash and was about to go out the door. Just as she was about to exit the house through the front door, her dog saw a cat across the street and took off at full speed.

She hung on to the leash and tripped trying to go out the door. She went face first into the door and broke her nose. At this point she teared up again and said that she loved her dog but didn't know if she could keep him. She had no control. I told her not to worry, and that we would get her dog under control.

I taught her my system for dealing with behavior problems, what I call my M.U.T.T. Method. The M stands for Manage, U for Underlying, T for Training, and the last T is for Time.

M=Management – A big part of dog ownership is effectively managing your dog's behavior. Crates, kennels, baby gates, and leashes are some tools to help you manage your dog's behavior. In this case, we put a gentle leader head collar on her dog to help manage her dog's pulling problem.

A gentle leader works by controlling the dog's head. In principle, it works a lot like a horse bridle. It makes it much more difficult for the dog to pull, and it gives you much better control over the dog on leash.

U=Underlying – Whenever you are dealing with a behavior problem you have to understand that there is an underlying problem. For instance, if a dog is digging there could be many different underlying reasons for the digging. It could be that the dog is bored, frustrated, hot, or it could be breed specific. Terriers love to dig.

In this situation, we figured that one of the big underlying reasons was lack of exercise. Her dog was loaded with energy. We came up with a plan to have her son bring the dog to the park three times a week on a long leash. He would spend about 45 minutes throwing a ball for her dog. In addition to the ball playing, she brought her dog to a dog daycare three times a week. By giving her dog some intensive, aerobic exercise her dog started to calm down.

T=Train – We put her dog on a training program that consisted of the basics (sit, down, stay, walk, and come). She or her son had to spend at least ten minutes each day doing a training session. We focused on teaching her dog to greet politely at the door and stop pulling. By using the gentle leader she was able to walk her dog past very distracting situations. She even expressed her amazement when she crossed other dogs and animals during their walks and was able to control him.

In addition to the obedience training she also learned how to teach her dog that she was the leader. She had her dog work for attention, food, and playing. By establishing some leadership she gained much better control.

T=Time – Any behavior program is going to require time. By following the steps that we outlined she started to see changes within a short period of time. By following the program for 21 days, those changes would become stronger and stronger.

Any time you're faced with a behavior problem, remember the acronym M.U.T.T. and apply each step. You'll be happy with the results.

About the Author: Eric Letendre started his dog training business in August of 1995. He has worked as an animal control officer, training director, and provided K-9 security consulting for such institutions as World Wide Plaza in Manhattan, and Hartford Hospital. He has also helped numerous animal shelters and has published two books. To learn more about his newest book, "The Amazing Dog Training Man," you can visit his website http://www.AmazingDogTrainingMan.com.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

The 5 Things You Should Know Before Breeding Cats

Writen by Marc De Jong

The cat population is astronomical. Most experts agree that average cat owners should spay their cat, not breed. Still there are people who want to have a litter from their pet. But there's a lot to think about before planning a feline family.

Here are five things you should know:

1. It takes time. You'll have to clean the nest every day, for two months. You should keep an eye on the kittens and watch their development – you won't have time for a holiday.

2. It takes space. It's not a good idea to breed if you have a 3-room apartment. Your family members should agree with your plan of having kittens. You can't lock up these little balls of fur. They'll go everywhere - in your partner's study, in your baby's bedroom, your kitchen, your bathroom.

3. It takes responsibility. Do you know beforehand that you will find a good home for your kittens? Some of your friends or relatives will say 'Yes, lovely, I'll take one of them'. But one or another may change his/her mind once the moment is near. Are you willing to keep the kitten that nobody wants?

4. It takes education. Have you thought about what could happen at birth? Do you know how to cut an umbilical cord? What to do if a newborn remains in its fluid filled sac? What supplies you need? How to know when a c-section is necessary? What to feed a pregnant cat?

5. It takes money. Kittens cost more money than you probably think. It's not only the food. Even if you go through pregnancy without a vet's help, you need to have them vaccinated and dewormed.

Yes, there's a lot to think about! However, if you really want to breed, make sure you get the right information, so you are prepared for the best and the worst.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marc de Jong runs an acclaimed web site on cats and is the author of the book How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com. In this book vets and breeders reveal the secrets they use to help a cat deliver and raise a healthy litter.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Dog Care 6 Easy Steps For A Terrific And Safe Romp In The Woods

Writen by ONeal Hendrix

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks....

What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you'll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.

I don't know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I've developed a list of easy dog care to-do's to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.

I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:

1. Orange vests for you and your dog

This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn't see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don't shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don't be the next casualty -- don your orange vests!

2. Current dog tags on collars

Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read "I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx". This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn't provide information for an easy abduction. I don't want someone to know my babies' names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.

3. Foot and body check during and after the outing

I check my dogs' paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season -- gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.

4. Fresh water and a bowl

If I can help it, I don't let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.

5. Towels

I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.

6. Whistle -- long range

Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don't like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.

These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.

Happy hiking!

O'Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. For many years, she has "worked miracles" with dogs and their owners. Check out her dog training blog for her advice about everything dog!

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Use Dog Clothes To Help You Bond With Your New Dog

Writen by Connie Limon

There are over 65 million dogs in the United States. Every one of them is special. Whether your dog is the family pet or a Westminster champion, you have an awesome treasure. There is no other creature as close and integrated into the human psyche and human culture as the dog. A family dog eats in the kitchen and sleeps in the bedroom. He munches on snacks as he watches television with his owners. Some of these dogs get their toenails painted pink and red.

Your dog is special. He probably is the most beautiful dog you ever seen and quite possibly the most beautiful on the earth to you. He amuses you. He charms you. He makes you laugh when your friends have made you cry. Your dog will never grow up, go to college, get married or get a job. Your mischievous little puppy will hang around your house until he is old and maybe a bit senile. He will always be your little boy or your little girl.

It is quite normal to want to dress up your dog in the latest of designer dog clothes and accessories. It is normal to want to have that perfect carrier for your little pal to take him along on shopping trips and everywhere you can. You miss him when he is left behind.

Today we have a wide variety of choices in dog fashions. The toy dogs especially look cute in little dog clothes, but the bigger dogs can look just as cute and fancy. There is something for every breed and every size of dog in dog clothing.

Dogs are wonderful, adaptable, amazing animals. As long as the clothing is restrictive, most dogs love the extra attention of getting dressed up. Good dogs can be found anywhere. Bad dogs can be found anywhere. You can find a good dog from responsible breeders, irresponsible breeders, backyard breeders, shelters, rescue organizations, neighbors, newspaper ads, relatives, pet stores, the alley or the highway in front of your house. Wherever you get your dog, once he finds out you are his friend and not his foe, putting a warm fleece t-shirt on him in the chilly weather only makes him feel more at home and secure with you, which in turn, can help to mold him into the "good dog" you want him to be. A good dog often times begins with a good owner regardless of where you get your dog..

As a dog owner, you can expect to deal with housetraining mistakes, chewing, nipping, health crises, digging, and barking regardless of where you obtained your dog. Very few dogs will present you with all these problems, but no dog is trouble-free. Don't let that scare you. The good far outweighs the bad. Acquire some good dog keeping skills. This will require action, resolving problems, planning and some sacrifice.

Somehow dogs seem to know which owners are committed to them and which aren't. Dressing up your dog in designer dog clothes is a very powerful way of showing commitment to your 4-legged best friend. Putting a tiny dog dress on your toy dog is a terrific way to get started on the right foot toward dog owner success. Try it and see the difference in can make in your relationship with your dog.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She offers Designer Dog Clothes at: http://www.littleguysdogclothesshop.com

Friday, January 30, 2009

Small Dog Clothing

Writen by Grant Carroll

Small dogs are wonderful companions, and they look adorable all dressed up. Due to their less than large stature, many of them need some clothes to keep from shivering to death, however, buying small dogs a wardrobe has become an issue of fashion and pampering. Clothing the small dog is all about assessing their needs and then their style.

What kind of clothing does my little baby need? That's the question on the mind of every doggie parent as they begin shopping. The answer depends of the weather. If it's winter, then they need coats and sweaters to stay warm during outside walks. Also, many dogs are still cold even indoors, so it's a good idea to have an "around the house" sweater. When the warm spring and summer roll around, they can go "naked", but it's still good to get some shirts. Many short haired breeds like Chihuahuas and Min Pins get cold indoors from the air conditioning, so a shirt or light sweater can come in handy. While the outdoors is very warm, a shirt will protect a dog from sunburn. All you have to do is put sun block where there's bare skin. Since skin cancer is the most common cancer among dogs, this is a very important step in prevention.

You can give your little one style by expressing their personality through clothing. One easy and fun way to do this is through message shirts. You've probably seen them in stores or online with messages varying from "I'm cute" to "spank me". There is a huge variety of these shirts available, so enjoy looking around for what best represents your little spunky one. If message shirts are not your thing, then perhaps canine couture is the way to go. Canine couture has been gaining popularity and is now a booming business. People can buy high fashion dog clothes right off runway. The problem is, however, that these fashions often cost much more than the average dog parent is prepared to pay. Still, these fancy styles are quite catching and are made of the best quality, just be sure not to pay too much. Following all of these suggestions can make clothing your small dog a fun and easy experience.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters. Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Piroplasmosis Protect Your Dog Well

Writen by Steve John Cowan

Piroplasmosis is one of the diseases, sometimes fatal, most frequently seen in dogs. This disease, which destroys the red cells, is due to a parasite of the blood, transmitted by a tick bite. The treatment is effective on condition it is set up in time, but the complications can be serious.

Which are the symptoms which one can observe?

The dog is laid low, it refuses to take nourishment, vomits and has a strong fever. Its urine takes on an abnormal colouring. The symptoms are not always easy to detect and it is advisable to consult a veterinary surgeon in case of doubts.

How is piroplasmosis transmitted?

Only ticks can transmit this disease. In order to be able to drink the blood of the dog, the tick injects an anticoagulant saliva, which contains the parasites of piroplasmosis. Once in the blood these penetrate in the red cells, multiply there, and make them burst. A dog affected by piroplasmosis is not contagious, to other dogs, to other animals, or to man.

What is the treatment for piroplasmosis?

The treatment is very effective assuming it beings rather quickly.

It is advisable to monitor the appearance of the symptoms well.

According to the stage of evolution of the disease, the veterinary surgeon will set up a treatment program in the form of injections which make it possible to destroy the parasite and of infusion, intended to rehydrate the animal and to fight against the hepatic and renal complications.

The animal will be also transfused to compensate for the lack of red globules.

How to prevent piroplasmosis?

wo techniques exist. First there are pesticides, which is the surest way to etablish real prevention. The product must destroy the tick before it has time to puncture the skin. It is thus necessary that it is poisoned in contact with the dogs coat, in a few minutes. The pesticides are in the shape of collars, pulverizers or pipettes.

The other method is that of vaccination. There is a vaccine which protects from piroplasmosis, but it is not 100% effective and appears very expensive.

For more dog caring tips and suggestions, visit my site at http://webbiz99.com/dogtraining/index.html

Steve Cowan is an Asia based businessman and writer,as well as an international racing driver and full time father.To discover more,visit his blog -What's New Today,Stanley?- at http://webbiz99.com/

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Lemon Tetra

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis

Size: 5cm (2 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Streams of the Amazon basin

Remarks: This fish looks best shoaling in a well planted tank.

Comments: The dorsal fin contains black with a yellow streak on the front edge; the adipose fin is yellow with a black edge; and the long-based anal fin has a bright yellow front and black rear edge. General colouration is greenish yellow with silver belly. Mature males are more intensely coloured. If you want something that's a little different from the normal tetra, this is a good choice to go with. Quite easy to keep and looks good in any aquarium with other small fish!

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This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Shih Tzu Properly Train Your New Shih Tzu Puppy

Writen by Connie Limon

Shih tzu puppy training is very important, whether you are training your first shih tzu puppy or your 20th. Properly training and socializing a shih tzu puppy is vital to making it a valued member of your family and your community.

In some ways training a shih tzu puppy is easier than training an adult or adolescent dog. One reason is that the shih tzu puppy is essentially a "blank slate", untroubled by past training techniques and other issues. In other ways, however, the shih tzu puppy can be more difficult to train than an older shih tzu dog.

One challenge to training a new shih tzu puppy is that shih tzu puppies are more easily distractible than adolescent and adult shih tzu dogs. Everything is new to a shih tzu puppy, and every new experience provides a new chance for distraction. For this reason, it is best to keep training sessions short when working with a shih tzu puppy, and to end each training sessions on a positive note.

It is also important to allow the shih tzu puppy plenty of time to play, and to interact with other shih tzu puppies and shih tzu dogs. Socialization training is vital to making your new shih tzu puppy a good canine citizen, as dog aggression is a growing problem in many areas. A properly socialized shih tzu dog learns how to play properly with other dogs, and overly aggressive play is punished by the other dogs in the play group.

This type of play learning is something that happens among siblings in litters of shih tzu puppies. As the shih tzu puppies play with each other, they learn what is appropriate and what is not. Inappropriate behavior, such as hard biting or scratching, is punished by the other shih tzu puppies, by the mother shih tzu dog, or both.

Unfortunately, many shih tzu puppies are removed from their mothers and sold or adopted before this socialization has fully occurred. Therefore, shih tzu puppy play sessions are a very important part of any shih tzu puppy training session. Most good shih tzu puppy preschool training programs provide time in each session for this type of dog interaction.

Introducing your shih tzu puppy to new experiences and new locations is also an important part of shih tzu puppy training. Teaching your shih tzu dog to be obedient and responsive, even in the face of many distractions, is very important when training shih tzu dogs and shih tzu puppies.

One great way to socialize your shih tzu puppy both to new people and new dogs is to take it on a trip to your local pet store. Many major pet store chains, and some independent ones as well, allow pet parents to bring their furry children, and these stores can be great places for shih tzu puppies to get used to new sights, sounds and smells. Of course you will want to make sure the store allows pets before heading over.

It is important for shih tzu puppy owners to structure their pet's environment so that the shih tzu puppy is rewarded for good behaviors and not rewarded for others. One good example of this is jumping on people. Many people inadvertently reward this behavior because it can be cute. While it is true that jumping can be cute for a 2 pound shih tzu puppy, it will not be so cute when that puppy has grown into a 10 pound shih tzu dog.

Instead of rewarding the shih tzu puppy for jumping, try rewarding it for sitting instead. This type of positive reinforcement will result in a well behaved adult shih tzu dog that is a valued member of both the family and the community at large.

This type of reinforcement can also be used in potty training the new shih tzu puppy. For instance, teaching a shih tzu puppy to use a unique surface such as gravel or asphalt is a good technique. The theory is that the shih tzu puppy will associate this surface with going potty, and therefore be reluctant to use other surfaces (like your kitchen carpet for instance) as a potty.

Connie Limon is a professional shih tzu breeder in Indiana. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Monday, January 26, 2009

Herp Hunting In The Northern Territory Australia

Writen by Chris M Jones

Appeared in 'Reptile Care' Volume 3, Issue 3

The northern territory is well known for being 'the real bush'. It has a population of less than 200'000 people, over 90% of which live in Government areas. These government areas only cover 5% of the Northern Territory, which leaves over 1.2 million square kilometres virtually deserted. This area is nearly five times the size of the UK! As you can now imagine, this is an incredibly large and diverse landscape! There are approximately 300 species of reptile, and 50 species of amphibian in the Northern Territory. Slightly more diverse one might say, than the UK's species count of only 6 reptiles and 6 amphibians!

I spent the entire year of 2005 travelling around Australia. I went to every State, every major city, drove across the longest straight road in the world, twice, and travelled the complete circumference of this beautiful country. But the Northern Territory was in my books, by far the most fantastic place I have ever been. I spent 3 months in Darwin, and several more weeks travelling around the NT, going as far south as Alice Springs and Ayers Rock (Uluru in Aboriginal terms). I knew the place was for me when, only a few days after I drove through, I saw my first wild Black Headed Python (Aspidites melanocephalus) crossing the road. What a shock! This was the first snake I had seen in Australia and I had already driven thousands of kilometres. I nearly ran it over, but swerved suddenly, missing it by millimetres! I turned around and went back, moving it off the road before the 50 metre oncoming road train ploughed straight through us all! It was a beautiful, 2 metre female in perfect condition. It was different seeing such an animal in the wild, after seeing many of them in friends' collections, it did not compare to the wonderful feeling of seeing her out in the bush and lending her a helping hand getting across the road. This was definitely for me! I knew there was plenty more where she came from, and I would definitely find them!

During my time in the Northern Territory, I spent 3 months working at 'Crocodylus Park'. A crocodile research and education centre, home to approximately 8'000 saltwater crocodiles and a number of other crocodilian and animal species. This was certainly an experience of a lifetime. Not only to work with such a large number of large crocodiles, but also to meet a whole group of brilliant ozzies! Myself and my girlfriend Eirlys stayed with an Australian couple; Cade & Holly. Cade knew the area and had been working at the park for a couple of years. He told me of a place he goes to on a regular occasion. He said to me; "We drive out after the sun sets, about 45 minutes out of town and just cruise for snakes." Well, that just sounded too easy for me, but I definitely wanted to give it a go!

Only a few days later, Cade had organised a few of his mates to join us on a night out 'herping'. We set off in convoy, Cade and 3 others in his car, closely followed by Maddy's car with me in the back and another couple of people! 45 Minutes later and we arrive at Fogg Dam. This place wasn't what I expected, it didn't look so amazing. We started driving very slowly along this road, which soon turned quite narrow, with a 2 metre drop off either side into dense, wet marshland. This was however, the dry season. In the wet season this road is not even visible, being completely submerged in water. Only a few seconds after driving along, comes our first catch of the night; a Yellow-Bellied Water Python (Liasis mackloti)! This was very closely followed by another, then another, then another. Within half an hour we had picked 14 water pythons off the road, even catching 2 or 3 at a time! Of course, all of these were released straight back into the marshes. I certainly had second thoughts about this place, it was amazing!

After our successful water python round-up, we took the time to sit by the road and see what we could spot. Out came our big torches, shining into the marsh either side of the road. The eyes of at least 20 crocodiles shone back at us. Most were the freshwater crocodiles (Crocodylus johnstoni), but some eyes were larger and further apart, these were the bigger, saltwater or 'estuarine' crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus). I had seen this on TV many times, but it was quite different to see this naturally. I must admit, even working with crocodiles all day; knowing that we were surrounded by hundreds of them was certainly a scary thought! The night was topped off by a find I was desperate for, a Northern Death Adder (Acanthophis praelongus)! An absolutely beautiful one too, camouflaged so well into the road we nearly turned it into another piece of 'road-kill'. This was a successful night!

I later found out, 'Fogg Dam' has the largest concentration of predatory animals in the world! The water pythons on their own, represent the largest density of predatory species in such a concentrated area. Their prey is the dusky rat, which are said to be in numbers of 15'000 per square kilometre. From these numbers of prey, it is easy to understand their success.

Darwin is a small capital city, with just over 100'000 people, over half the population of the entire Northern Territory. You only have to drive an hour out of the city centre to reach Litchfield National Park; a 1'500 square kilometre oasis of Northern Territory habitat, including one of the most famous termite mound spectacles in the world, a number of amazing water falls, rock formations and forested areas. A couple of hours due East is the even larger Kakadu National Park, covering nearly 20'000 square kilometres of land, nearly the same size as Ireland! This is one of the most famous National Parks in the world and it certainly should be. Home to thousands of species of flora & fauna.

It was nice to get out to Litchfield National Park on weekends, being only a short drive away. I went several times during my stay in the NT. It has an abundance of wildlife visible during the day, but at night it really comes alive! Litchfield is famous for it's Magnetic Termite Mounds, so called because they are all north – south facing. The structures are approximately 3metres tall and built so that the narrowest edge is facing the extremely intense sun for the midday heat. With so many termites, come so many predators. Many species of skinks and other small lizards are common here. The Northern Territory is home to approximately 100 species of skink, many rely on small insects such as termites. With so many small lizards, come many reptiles that feed upon these lizards, including the Burtons Legless Lizard (Lialis burtonis). This is one of the larger species of legless lizard, and has the unusual, snake-like characteristic of being able to un-hinge it's jaw to allow an easy passage for their larger food items. These are very common in Litchfield, and I was fortunate enough to see many. All of which varied in colour.

Orange-naped snakes (Furina ornata) are plentiful in the Northern Territory, although they are not seen nearly as often as other species. I was lucky enough to spot this guy slithering across the road one night. My tour guide for the night was Maddy, one of Cade's mates. He had been herping for years around the Territory, and was familiar with the different species of reptiles you might find on the different nights, at certain times of the year. He thought I must be a good luck charm, as this was the first Orange Naped Snake he had ever caught here!

I have dealt with hundreds of species of snake in the last few years, but I really wanted to get a taste for the 'lethal' stuff. The Northern Territory was certainly the place to do it; and at this point I had already encountered a Death Adder in the wild. That though, wasn't enough. The Coastal Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) was a rare sight and although I hoped to catch a glimpse of one, the opportunity never came. I was more fortunate however with the Brown Snakes! I saw 2 Western Brown snakes (Pseudonaja nuchalis) within a few kilometres of each other in Litchfield National Park. Unfortunately though, my one and only sight of a wild King Brown (Pseudonaja australis), was a juvenile victim of a car tyre. It had only just happened, we had passed the same spot just half an hour earlier, yet on our way back through, the snake had appeared, dead.

A number of reptile and insect species can be found in and around the Darwin area. While living in Karama, we had a number of visitors to our backyard. Green Tree Snakes (Dendralaphis punctulatus), Two-Lined Dragons (Diporiphora bilineata), Striped Tree Dragons (Amphibolorus temporalis), Australian House Gecko's (Gehyra australis), Asian House Gecko's (Hemidactylus frenatus), Garden Skinks (Carlia gracilis and Carlia munda)and Mertens' Water Monitor's (Varanus mertensi). Huntsman and Redback spiders are also common in households and gardens.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Sunday, January 25, 2009

The Bernese Mountain Dog Draft Dog Extraordinaire

Writen by Michael Russell

The Berner as he is commonly spoken of is a dog that has recently become one of the favorite breeds in the United States because of his characteristics of moderate size, beauty and good natured temperament. He is a member of the Working Group of the American Kennel Club. His striking good looks and exceptionally stable temperament have contributed to his popularity, which has burgeoned since he was admitted into the registry in 1990.

The Bernese Mountain Dog comes from the large family of Swiss dogs of black and tan coloration and mastiff origin which dominate the Alpine regions of Central Europe. These dogs seem to have origins in the original Molloser dogs which were transported into Europe by the Roman Legions. Many of these dogs were used by the Romans as drover dogs and others were considered to be war dogs of massive power and formidable appearance. The Bernese Mountain Dog is most probably a representative of the former type, a dog which was used to drive the flocks of cattle and oxen and also as a carting dog or draft dog. Another common name for the Bernese Mountain Dog is the Berner Sennenhund.

The Berner is always a tri-colored dog. The base coat is black with rust and white markings. Symmetry of markings is important. Rust should appear over each eye and on the cheeks reaching to the corner of the mouth. Also there should be rust on each side of the chest, on all four legs and under the tail. The muzzle should have a white blaze. There should be a white mark or blaze on the chest and this should be in the shape of a cross. The tip of the tail is white. There should be white on the feet but not extending higher than the pasterns. The Bernese Mountain dog has a medium length to the coat, which is a double coat and is naturally weather resistant. The hair should be straight to slightly wavy. The entire picture of the well groomed Berner is quite striking with the sharp contrasts in color and markings, especially since this is a coat that has a natural shine. This is a dog who appears stocky to a certain degree, but not overly large. His working gait is that of a slow trot but he should be capable of faster movement when necessary.

Berners achieved popularity on the farms and holdings of the mountain people as strong dogs that were willing to pull carts and work side by side with their human companions without complaint and with happy enthusiasm for the jobs to which they were entrusted. In the United States and Great Britain the Berner has achieved the same sort of popularity, not because he is used as a working dog so much but because his temperament makes him a popular family pet. The temperament of the Bernese Mountain Dog should be one that is loyal and protective to his family but accepting of strangers and gracious, never aggressive. He has great intelligence and fortitude, preferring to have a job to do and working with endurance and stability for many hours.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Breeding Your Goldfish

Writen by Dane Stanton

If you are keen on breeding Goldfish, you should know that it's not an easy task. It will take a lot of patience, a lot of space in the tank and quite a bit of money too. Don't get into breeding if you think it's going to be profitable, because it isn't! Breeding goldfish is best left to a professional but if you still want to breed them, here's how to begin:

Decide on the breed: You also must decide before hand what variety of goldfish you want to breed. Ideally, if you are a beginner you should decide on breeding a good quality single tail type fish like the comet.

Pair and choose the breeds: You must choose high quality goldfish to breed high quality goldfish. The goldfish you choose should be two-four years. A good quality goldfish would be assessed according to its finnage, body shape, size and color. They should be at least 4-6 inches or larger and very healthy. It's better to breed with younger fish as the older ones might produce eggs that are deformed and infertile.

* The ideal female goldfish would be heavy at the rear, protruding on the left part of her body and her anal area would be soft.

* The ideal male goldfish would be a great chaser and there should be signs of his breeding tubercles on his gills and pectoral fins. Begin with two females and three males. The idea is to have two males for every female.

Time to breed Here's the time plan to breed goldfish –

* You would need to plan a year ahead in the months of July or August. This is when most breeders sell their surplus fish at cheaper rates. If you skip this period than would find it hard to find a good breeding quality pair of goldfish.

* During the winter you must feed the fish and help them build enough body mass to last the winter and be ready for spawning in the early spring. By October or November, your fish would need less food and this is the time to not only clean the fish but also separate the males from the females.

Cleaning the fish: The solution you need to clean the fish is one measure of Terramycin, 80 drops of Formaldehyde and 6 drops of copper sulphate in four gallons of water. The solution should be at the right temperature and the fish should get enough oxygen to breathe. Allow the goldfish to remain in this solution for 20 minutes and then move them to a separate container of clean water while you prepare a spawning tank.

* Make sure you make the new tank a natural spawning area with bushy natural plants, artificial fibers or spawning mops and coconut fibers, all materials that can receive the spawn. Goldfish need such props for spawning.

Size of the spawning tank: You will need at least a tank that can hold 20 gallons of water. If the fish were bigger than you would need a bigger tank.

* Now that the fish are clean and the tank is clean too, do not feed the fish anything for the next two months except some amount of live food like insect larvae,worms, and brine shrimp. This preparation will help the females develop healthy and the males, milt that is needed to fertilize the eggs.

* If the winters are too cold in your area, you can consider using a heater.

* Watch the male goldfish developing breeding tubercles that look like white pimples on their gill covers and the pectoral fins.

* Watch the females become rounder body as it fills up with roe or eggs. How do you spot the spawning moment?

* Spawning usually happens in the early morning.

* The colors of all the goldfish will look brighter then before.

* The fish would group together while swimming.

* The males will be chasing the females at random.

* Finally the active males zero in on one particular female and chase her more than before.

* The chase will intensify with the male getting aggressive and pushing against the female goldfish till she ejects her eggs. * As the eggs are out the male will fertilize them by depositing milt over the eggs.

* The eggs will fall through the water, landing on plants. They stay in the same spot till they hatch.

* The spawning may begin again after some days of rest.

Point of note: Goldfish eat their eggs. Of the 10,000 eggs that are laid in one spawning session, hardly any will be left if the fish are not removed. So once the eggs are laid, move the parents back to another tank.

Dane Stanton - www.goldfish-secrets.com

Dane Stanton is an expert on goldfish health care. To visit his website visit http://www.goldfish-secrets.com for more information on Goldfish care and other aquarium related topics. *Recommended*

Friday, January 23, 2009

If Humans Are Merely Animals Why Do They Rule The Surface Of The Planet

Writen by Lance Winslow

Many zoologists and research biological scientists believe that humans are nothing more than really fancy designed animals. That is to say more adapted and highly evolved than most all other species in the animal kingdom. Mankind indeed has conquered the top of the food chain yet if humans are merely animals, how come the species is so successful?

Recently this topic came up with the principle investigator of the "Why Are Humans Unique Project" in an online think tank who stated;

"We could establish value boundaries beforehand from and establish our base model in determining and categorize the samples into there appropriate groups. I believe this would provide us with a sufficient process to measure whether or not each species is in the same grouping as the other."

Another think tanker in the group was fascinated by all this and then stated; "Well this makes more sense, as the animal groupings each have particular characteristics that humans share, but humans have nearly all the capabilities whereas each animals species has one, two, three or so. With only a few species like Dolphins, Elephants, Pigs, Guerillas, Chimpanzees, Canines, etc. with many and very similar to humans. I would call these higher order mammals."

Yet in such a classification of the animal kingdom, it seems all this is available on the Discovery Channel, Animal Channel, Science Channel, NOVA and Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Even Encarta has charts of these things along with the "Time Life Series" which I have read all thru cover to cover. Most Zoology Text books I have perused do to.

The head researcher for the project also stated; "I feel this procedure has a very good chance at providing the argument in question and other similar debates with a valuable data set."

The rest of the think tank members seemed to be inline with all this and one gentleman stated; "I agree but it really seems all this has been done already and I have found fault with little of it. Some of the old stuff like animals do not make tools or use tools and those such thoughts have been dispelled now."

What are your thoughts on humans and their uniqueness? What have you considered about your own species identity? Have you considered any of these concepts? What do you think of the "Why Are Humans Unique Project?" Consider all this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Dog Of The Desert The Canaan

Writen by Michael Russell

The Canaan Dog is sometimes mistakenly believed to be a pariah dog which roams throughout the Middle East, however this is incorrect. The Canaan Dog is a true breed which has survived in the desert for more than 2000 years. In the 1930s the Israelis began a program of re-domestication of these dogs, recognizing their potential as guard dogs to guard their settlements . Their history as a desert breed has contributed strength and endurance to the genetic makeup, to say nothing of the fact that they are relatively disease free. Their bodies have developed in much the same way as the Arabian Horse, strong lungs and resistance to extremes of weather are part of their heritage.

The Israelis have been careful to preserve these characteristics and have also been careful not to mix in any other type of dog into the breeding program. On occasion they do bring in more of the Canaan Dogs from the wild deserts to continue to improve the domesticated stock. This is more difficult as the spread of civilization has made the existence of these desert dogs more tenuous and there are fewer places where they can still be found living in the wild.

The Canaan Dog can be any shade of tawny desert yellow or tan with white markings and also black with white markings. The coat is double and fairly short. Ears are prick, the tail is long and curves over the back when excited. They are of medium size, with surprising strength and agility, possessing great endurance and lung power. The dogs readily adjusted to civilization and are loyal and very affectionate family pets. Their major use is that of a dog guard that will protect outlying settlements from predators and give warning when strangers come. They are also useful as herding dogs for the flocks of goats. The Canaan Dog does not require harsh training methods and adapts to family living easily.

This is a comparatively rare breed and has only recently made an appearance in the Dog Show Circuit in the United States. They are classified as members of the Herding Group. Their numbers are gradually increasing. They are a relatively easy care dog and are happy as an urban resident or on the farm. Owners of the Canaan dog have found that they are generally not stubborn, are quite intelligent and make very good pets. They should show reserve with strangers but have proven themselves to be affectionate and loyal. The American Kennel club describes their temperament as "alert, vigilant, devoted and docile with his family".

Factors which contribute to the usefulness of this dog as a family pet are their easy care coat and their general good health. Owners of Canaans can expect that these dogs will present few vet bills in comparison to other breeds! They are known to be easy to train without stubborn tendencies or hyperactive traits. They are inquisitive and because of their history of survival of the fittest are independent thinkers but appear to have a great deal of common sense.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Gps Tracking For Mans Best Friend

Writen by Simon Wyryzowski

To say that our pets are our best friends is an understatement. There are many people in this world who see their pets as life long companions, and even an integral of their family. How would you feel if your pet has run away, or perhaps has gotten lost somewhere outdoors? It would make your heart beat fast, palms sweaty and extremely anxious wouldn't it? After all there is not another pooch or kitty that can ever replace the special personality that your pet has.

GPS or global positioning systems can help give you peace of mind in knowing when your pet has crossed outside the safety zone of the backyard, or somewhere in your neighborhood. Other scenarios aside from domestic issues are the kinds where you take your pets on vacation with you, or go hunting with. Why take chances and lose sight of one of the most valuable members of your family?

GPS tracking devices will not substitute common sense and vigilance in watching over your pets, but rather help complement and reduce the chances of your pet running off by accident. These small moments can add up to lots of time, emotional investment, and spiritual drain after a while.

Consider several types of GPS tracking devices, from those that allow you to program safety zones which alert you when your pet goes out of bounds so to speak, waterproof and weatherproof models if you live in temperate zones, and advanced features such as heart rate, blood pressure, body temperature to see if your pet is truly 100 percent safe from the inside out.

It is up to you as the owner and caretaker of your pet to decide what features are necessary and which are not. You will find that GPS tracking devices whether for people, pets, or objects, are relatively easy to setup and are getting simpler everyday. What are you waiting for? Your pet deserves the best!

Run to our site for GPS tracking services for people, pets, and objects. Also discover a range of car tracking device products to give you additional peace of mind.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

The Vizsla A Hungarian National Treasure

Writen by Michael Russell

The Hungarian Vizsla is pronounced "veeshla". This tawny red dog of medium build is known for its skills as a hunting dog and its excellent trainability. However it must be trained with a certain degree of gentleness and understanding, this is a sensitive dog and will not take to harsh punishment. The Hungarian Vizsla is a dog that works "close to the gun" and will not range far, it is a silent hunter and does not scare up the game too soon. This hunter was bred mostly to go after birds but is also a good rabbit dog.

I have personally had acquaintances who own Vizslas and have come into contact with several of them at dog shows. The ones that I have known are quite active and highly intelligent. They love to play and will gladly retrieve and give chase, a large yard is a necessity. The correct temperament is one of willingness and friendliness to strangers and this does mean that the Vizsla puppy must be socialized at an early age. Without socialization a Vizsla can be overly shy and this in turn can lead to aggression. Care should be taken if the dog is to be used for hunting, that it is trained early to the sound of the gun.

The Coat is tawny red and quite short. A brisk rubbing with a towel or a soft brush is often the only care that needs to be done. Of course nails should be kept regularly trimmed. The ears, although lop, are fairly short and stay clean. The tail is usually bobbed at about 1/3 the length. The head is broad at the skull with a clean look to the muzzle. The Vizsla is a pointer and will freeze in the point with one front leg lifted when it comes on the birds. This dog is quite well balanced in looks and is a beautiful sight to see when it is "on point".

Adult dogs should be x-rayed for hip dysplasia before being used for breeding. Epilepsy is a problem associated with this breed also and there can be skin problems and allergies. A dog which is given the chance to exercise will not become obese, but these dogs are "chow hounds" and will become overly fat quickly if allowed to eat all they want, especially if they don't get adequate exercise.

Vizslas need a close association with people and unlike many hunting breeds they do not make a good kennel dog. These dogs are what one would call highly responsive to training that is positive in nature. They are "willing workers" and will respond well to praise. Whether it be as a show dog or an obedience dog or a hunting dog, they are best when they are not bored. If left alone for long periods of time they can get into a lot of mischief in a house and a yard is important if they can not be with their family the majority of the day.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Animals

Monday, January 19, 2009

How To Raise A Healthy Kitten

Writen by Katharine Logan

Selecting a Kitten

It is best to choose your kitten from the whole litter, choose the frisky playful, friendly kitten that is confident and happy to approach you rather than the one that hangs back and is shy. The best time to take your kitten home is between 7 and 8 weeks old. Some pedigree breeders like to keep the kittens until 12 weeks old so they can have their initial vaccinations. Some things you have to look for when choosing a new kitten or cat are:

  • The ears should be clean and no unpleasant smells.
  • White blue eyed cats are prone to deafness (all cats eyes are blue at this age) Test this by making sounds outside its field of vision.
  • Eyes should be clear and bright with no sings of weeping.
  • Gums should be pink (not red) and teeth should be white.
  • The coat should be clean and unmated with no fleas or flaky skin.
  • Check under the tail – this area should be spotless in a healthy cat.
  • Setting in your new Kitten or cat

    It is probably best to have a proper pet carrier to take your new pet home in – to avoid extra stress. At let your new kitten or cat come out of the carrier at its own time. It will need time to settle down, so make sure it has fresh drinking water and a little food also make sure it can find its way to its bed and litter tray – then leave it alone for a little while. Make sure that children behave gently and quietly around the kitten, kittens need peace and quiet to sleep as well as needing laytime. It is best to keep your kitten confined indoors for a week or so and accompany your kitten on its first trip outside – continue to go out side with your kitten for the next few trips. This will give the kitten a sense of security and encourage it to come when you call. Your new kitten should integrate quite well with other pets, make sure that you can introduce them slowly. Some pets will integrate at all – make sure you keep small mammals and birds away from your kitten as their natural instincts will take over. Once your kitten has overcome its initial fears it will amuse it self for hours with very cheap simple toys like ping pong balls, cardboard rolls and small stuffed animals.

    What Equipment your cat or kitten need

    A bed: a cardboard box with a blanket or cushion in it – makes an ideal bed for a kitten as the kitten grows you may like to find a more permanent replacement, such as wooden box or a covered bed. You may like to keep in mind that it should ideally be washable when choosing a bed. Place the bed in a quiet, draught free, warm spot.
    Grooming tools: – A brush - preferably with natural bristles is very useful for grooming any cat – for long haired cats you will also need a wire toothed metal comb and a pair of rounded scissors to cut out any tangles. A pair of feline claw clippers will complete your pussy cats grooming set.
    A collar or harness: Your cat should wear a collar complete with an identification disk. The collar must be elasticized in case it gets caught – for example on a branch whilst climbing a tree. Some owners train their cats to go for walks on a harness or lead.
    Toys: There are a huge range of toys available for cats making play of exercising fun and providing stimulation. Many stuffed toys contain catnip – this herb also called catmint appeals to many cats, creating an apparent sense of wellbeing – this lasts for approximately 15 minutes.

    A scratching post

    – Cats love to scratch. Scratching serves a couple of purposes – firstly it keeps the claws neat and trim – it also marks the cats' territory as other cats will see the marks and smell the scent. The cat has glands between the toes that release this scent as the cat scratches.
    A scratching post is the best solution – but the cat will need to be taught to use it from the very beginning. This will save your furniture, avoid using a carpet covered scratching post as the pet cat may see the house carpet as an extension of the scratching post. If the cat ha selected a piece of furniture where it like to scratch – by covering it with plastic for a while the cat will stop scratching there. Cats do not like the feel of plastic.

    A litter tray

    – A litter tray will be needed when your kitten first comes home and if you intend to leave the cat in at night. Choose a tray that is deep enough and roomy enough for your cat to turn around in easily. There are numerous varieties of kitty litter available – choose one that suits you. Also a covered litter tray is a great idea as it keeps the smell and the mess inside also creating a more private spot for your cat.

    A Cat flap

    – Cat flaps are a great idea to allow the cat to go in and out as it pleases. You must be careful however as other cats may also come in. check what flaps are available and choose the one that suits your needs. A cat is quite easily trained to use a cat flap – prop the flap open at first and call the cat through form one side than the other. When it has mastered this, lower the flap a little and use the same procedure – continue to do this until you can close the flap altogether.

    Feeding your kitten

    Ask the breeder or pet shop for a diet sheet so that you can continue feeding them the same diet and quantities. This will avoid you giving it too much food or an over rich diet which can cause tummy upsets. You should also find out meal times.

    Food and feeding your cat

    There are three types of cat food available commercially –moist food, semi – moist food and dry food. Cats need meat or fish everyday to be healthy.
  • Moist food as in the canned varieties is preferred by most cats because it closely resembles fresh meat. It also has the vitamins and minerals that the cat needs. How ever canned foods will not last long once served and it is best to take the food away after an hour to encourage your cat to eat its food in a single sitting rather that picking at it all day long.
  • Semi – moist food usually comes in a sachet. It keeps well in a bowl without drying out or loosing its texture and tastes good to cats.
  • Dry food contains very little moisture so it is very important to have fresh drinking water available.
  • Establish a feeding routine where you feed your cat once or twice a day – at the same place and the same time. Leave the food out for an hour then take it away. This will help to make your cat a healthy eater and not pick at the food all day.

    Worming

  • The most common worms that affect cats are round worms and tape worms. Cats must be de-wormed regularly. Your vet will give you specific advice on worming products.
  • Following these simple steps will ensure you, your family and the newest edition to the family will have a happy, healthy and rewarding time together.

    (c) Katharine Logan 2005 http://www.pet-library.com

    Katharine Logan is author and content manager for Pet-library.com She conducts research on specified subjects to help people with day to day issues. For more click on:http://www.pet-library.com