Saturday, February 28, 2009

A Simple Secret For Horse Owners

Writen by Leslie Moore

All you need to get going is 1 Simple Secret that gets you started towards achieving your goals with your horse and in your life…

Here is the first question I want to ask all Horse Owners – Can you actually see in your mind what you want?

Too many horse owners just can't see it…

Do you see what happens to a horse owner when they don't know what they want? You also wonder where they see the plans they have with their horse? Who is there that can lead them forward if they can't see where they want to go?

As a horse owner I have found that secret!!

If you knew a very, very simple secret would you use it? I just bet you would…

Here it is! ..See your picture of what you want to achieve with your horse.

You must be able to see your very own picture of success with your horse.

You need to know what your life looks like to you. How else do you know what you want or if in fact you actually get to where you want to go???? How will you know when you get there?

We all do it – consciously and sub consciously – we visualise, we create that picture in our minds. Anything you have ever really wanted you could actually see it clearly in your mind, before you got it. That's what drove you to getting it. Part of knowing what you want is being able to see what you want. You see yourself winning the blue ribbon, completing successfully the dressage test or the course of jumps. You see yourself having the Vet say you passed the final exam at the endurance ride. You see your success!

If you can't see it, you can't reach for it….its so, so important to create that picture of success. Sit there quietly, close your eyes and look for it. Create it if you haven't already.

Everything that you do is a product of what you see – like it or not. If you don't see it you will be flat, without purpose and scattered. When the going gets a bit tough as it surely will at times, search your mind for your very own success picture and keep it in focus. It's a great pick-me-up. But more than that – you have something to reach for. If your picture is somewhat blurred – tidy it up, make it smart and desirable.

Ask any successful horse owner to tell you about their PICTURE, and they can and will tell you.

This is called VISION – this is the very first step on your pathway to success with your horse.

1 Simple Secret - Make your picture a beautiful one.

Enjoy your Horse, Leslie

About the author: Leslie Moore, a life coach and an equestrian expert with more than 40 years experience has helped many horse owners with practical advice to the commonsense day to day issues they face. For more information go to: www.alotmooresolutions.com so you to can experience a balanced and fulfilling life with your horse. Leslie helps people in all areas of their life so they may have happiness. Success coaching works!

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Nutrition Pet Food Or Junk Food

Writen by Kevin Shayne

For a long time I've felt, believed and experienced that nutrition is key to health. Junk goes in and the result is poor health. Maybe not immediately but definitely it will add up to a toxic level and cause poor health. This goes for all living things. No one or being lives forever, obviously, however we want to extend the time we have and make the time we have a healthy one.

During my hundreds and hundreds of hours research in investigating dog foods I found the most remarkable things. Some of what I found was shocking and other facts were down right disgusting. For starters, the dog food industry is totally unregulated meaning that manufacturers can, and do, put whatever they want into "food". There are documented reports of animal waste products, ground up dog carcasses, non human edible grade products, and other animal wastes put into dog foods. These acts are not myths or legends unfortunately.

Among the ingredients in about 99.99% of dog foods you find sugar, salt, corn, phosphates, artificial flavors and colorings. It appears as if the simple dog food has turned into a fast food garbage dump.

Dogs are naturally carnivores and scavengers however since their domestication they have relied on human help in the nutrition arena. As we have moved from fresh foods to processed foods so have our dogs. Just like us our dogs have now inherited human like modern diseases (from cancer, diabetes, and skin ailments to early death).

Veterinarian Dr Jane Bicks has written that dogs should be living in the range of 18-25 years old. This has been supported by friends of mine from other countries where dogs who eat "closer to the earth" commonly live to those ages. Basically we are killing our dog with processed foods.

I must admit to having certain biases based upon personal experience, knowledge about health, and what I've learned. For example, there is a lot of literature on the inability of animals to assimilate fractioned nutrition. What is fractionated nutrition? It is vitamins and supplements. Check the super market or even some of the premium dog food brands and you'll find them packed with vitamins and supplements. But, that doesn't mean they are good!

Let me explain. The processing of and extracting of "nutritional value" causes molecular differences between food and these "vitamins". The result is that the body doesn't assimilate it. Here are list of some of the things you loose with fractionated vitamins over foods: compound vitamins and minerals, trace minerals, enzymes, flavonoids, carotenoids, pigments, terpenes, chlorophyll, coenzymes, covitamins, amino acids and much more.

Animals aren't designed to consume fractionated nutrition. Animals are designed to consume food not chemicals. The concept that altered nutrition fulfills the body's requirements is false. This goes for all animals not just humans.

So, the movement toward providing dogs with raw (such as the BARF diet) and pure foods is a fantastic one. As a dog owner I know it can be rough to provide and shop for my dogs like they are humans but it is necessary for them to be healthy and live long lives.

Kevin Shayne is founder of http://www.dogcare-doghealth.com which exclusively provides information on the most desired dog health concerns. Besides over 14 years in business Kevin has advocated quality nutrition and organics for over 10 years. Additional information available:

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Buenos Aires Tetra

Writen by Gary Bolton

Family: Characidae

Species: Hemigrammus caudovittatus

Size: 7.5cm (3 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Plate river basin of Argentina, Paraquay, and Brazil

Remarks: It may eat soft-leaved plants.

Comments: A thin, horizontal blue line begins behind the gill-cover of this slim fish, and tapers until obscured by a darker line, ending in the centre of the caudal fin. Male colours intensify during spawning. Slightly bigger than your average tetra, so they make a good choice to mix with other small fish from the tetra family, without posing a threat to the other smaller tetra fish. As they will get along fine, and add that bit extra to your aquarium tank.

----------------------------------------

This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Different Types Of Aggression In Dogs

Writen by Stan Rawlinson

Aggression is one of the main reasons that dogs are euthanised or rehomed; at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggressive behaviour in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type of aggression; most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.

The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.

1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)

Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.

Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.

Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise

How can you tell if it is fear?

With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.

This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.

This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.

2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)

Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life

Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.

You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.

3. Frustration Aggression

Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.

This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.

As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.

4. Sexual aggression.

This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dog's necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.

5 Territorial Aggression

This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans in this regard as conspecific, and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area. Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden.

The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say "OFF" if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.

6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression

The word dominant is a dirty word in dog behavioural circles at present however if we understand the word means position and is much more complex that just aggression, then to ignore this area of conflict would be remiss. The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tiptoe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life, almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program, which stands for "Nothing in Life is Free", See my website under dominance

7. Chase or Predatory aggression

This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.

One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the trigger . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age.

Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help, however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.

It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment's include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs' perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.

However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.

As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training can also exacerbate the situation. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.

Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program. With all aggression cases, you should consider a behaviourist or a dog trainer experienced in these problems, before the problems becomes life threatening either to the dog or the person they are aggressing against.

Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener) Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine.

© Stan Rawlinson Telephone: 0208 979 2019 Mobile Number: 07976 153161 E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Why We Like Dogs Better Than People

Writen by John T Jones, Ph.D.

Why We Like Dogs Better Than People

Most dogs are less exasperating than people. Think about it:

Has your dog ever asked you for your car keys?

Has your dog ever asked you for a loan?

Has any dog borrowed your tools and then not returned them?

Has your dog ever ignored you when you come home from work? (If so, get a new dog.)

Has your dog ever not thanked you for what you do? (Well, didn't you see his tail wagging?)

Has your dog ever asked you why you want him to do unnatural things like walk between your legs while you are walking, to stand on his hind legs, to jump through your arms when you hold them like a loop, or to play dead?

Did your dog ever ask you if you wanted him to guard your property?

Dogs are perfect except I have never got one to pay board and room─except by unconditional love.

Okay, the article was rejected for too few words. Let's try a poem if I can dream one up here.

If your dog bites your hand

When you feed him,

It's not a dog,

It's a ferret.

If your dog hates your cats,

Barks all night,

And poops on your rug,

It's a dog.

That aught to do it!

The End

John T. Jones, Ph.D. (tjbooks@hotmail.com, a retired VP of R&D for Lenox China, is author of detective & western novels, nonfiction (business, scientific, engineering, humor), poetry, etc. Former editor of Ceramic Industry Magazine, Jones is Executive Representative of International Wealth Success. He calls himself "Taylor Jones, the hack writer."

More info: http://www.tjbooks.com

Business web site: http://www.bookfindhelp.com (IWS wealth-success books and kits and business newsletters / TopFlight flagpoles)

Friday, February 13, 2009

Goldfish 101

Writen by William Berg

Goldfish are hardy freshwater fish. While most people know about them, they do not necessarily know all about them. This article attempts to tell you a lot more. They originated from the Gibal Carp. Over the past 2000 years, beginning in China, Goldfish were the result of breeding and early genetic like experimentation. Unlike many other species, various genetic traits can be changed over 3-4 generations with Goldfish.

Wild "Goldfish" live in an environment of ponds, lakes, and other water holes and can be found in Moving and still water ranging from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit / 10 to 32 degrees Celsius. The largest types of goldfish can grow to be upwards of 12 inches/ 30 cm and with weights around 5 ½ pounds / 2.5 Kg.

In the wild, their colors tend to be darker and paler which seems to be a direct result of the amount of light in their environment. Their colors actually include gold, bronze, and pink. They have a couple sub-hues of the sort too, metallic and calico.

It is time to shatter a myth, a dream about keeping goldfish. Those cute little bowls that are often sold containing goldfish are not the right environment for Goldfish. They need more room, as they can grow large and need high oxygen levels in the water. Something that is hard to maintain in a bowl. Small aquarium tanks are never wise for aquarists, as they can have more drastic (and fast) changes in the water quality. This means that the water very fast can turn toxic and kill your goldfish. You sometime hear people being proud that my new goldfish has lived for 3 or 6 month or something like that. A six month old goldfish is really nothing to be proud of as these fish can become 30 and even 40 years old with the proper care.

For a Goldfish aquarium tank, it is advisable to have a tank with a lot of surface area as that allows more water contact with the air which means more oxygen in the water. For every inch of Goldfish, you should have 30 square inches of surface area. Do not forget that they will grow, and some variety can become as large a foot / 30 cm.

Goldfish should be kept in freshwater and can in some areas be taken directly from the tap. Check with a local fish store to se if the water in your area is good enough to house fish in and use a good water preparation chemical. Make sure that new water that you add to the aquarium keeps the same temperature as the old water in the aquarium. You should always let your aquarium stand for about a week after first adding water to it before adding any fish. This process is called cycling and makes the water more suitable to support life.

Gravel on the bottom is wise, as it will help the Goldfish to feel more at home. About 1/8 inch is good. It is a good idea to avoid dyed gravel, as it might have contaminants that your Goldfish will not appreciate in terms of health.

Filtration are not, with good water changes, as necessary for Goldfish as they are with many other fish, though still a good idea and strongly recommended, as it will make your task a bit simpler and help you keep the water conditions good. The filtration will also start a current which increase the oxygen levels in the aquarium tank which is beneficial Oxygenating is a good thing as well. It will help release some harmful chemicals in the water, and helps oxygenate the water as well. A simple air stone, and pump for your Goldfish will help them live happier and healthier, and the cost are worth every penny of it.

Goldfish, like most other fish, do enjoy some environment to play in. Places to hide and find shade in. One other aspect, it is wise to have at least 2 goldfish, as they do like company. Loners in the fish world probably are not that much different from those in the human one. Do not leave your precious pet alone without someone to play with. Make sure all things in the tank are meant to be in a fish tank, and that they are clean, so they don't add harmful chemicals. Don't use any detergents to clean the fish tank and/or any part of decoration and equipment.

Lighting will help the fish to maintain the best color. Florescent Normal Output bulbs do well for Goldfish, although high output bulbs can make your goldfish colors look and be even brighter.

You should take care bringing the Goldfish home. Darkness, room temperature, and gentleness are a great idea, as they will help lessen the stress on the goldfish during the move. Another aspect is that it is wise to dim the lights before adding them to the tank to further reduce stress. Before releasing them into the tank you should let the bag float on top of the aquarium for a while. (At least 15 minutes) you should thereafter open the bag and but about a cup of water in it and than wait another 15 minutes. You should repeat this process 4 times before you release you fish in their new home. This will give the goldfish the possibility to slowly adept to the new water conditions.

Once things are up and running, you should change some of the water in the tank weekly. This helps remove stale water and clean out some debris. You should siphon about 15% of the water out and from the bottom at the gravel where the debris fall. Then replace the removed water with the fresh water, make sure that the new water has the same temperature as the water in the aquarium. If the water changes causes big changes in the water values it might stress the Goldfish.

Goldfish have special nutritional needs that are often available as "Goldfish Food." For example, Goldfish need more carbohydrates in their diet than many other fish species. It is wise to only add enough food for them to eat fully in 5 or 10 minutes. Any more will likely be waste resting at the bottom and worsen the water quality. It is better to feed them 2-3 times a day then it is once a day.

Click on the link to learn more about goldfish or some other fish species.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Learn About Lovable Lovebirds

Writen by Shari Carpenter

Lovebirds make wonderful pets. Their exquisite colors and animated personalities easily endear them to onlookers. While every bird has its own personality there are traits common to all Lovebirds which have made them a popular pet and a great choice for a first time bird owner.

Appearance

Lovebirds have perhaps the most varied coloration among the parrot species. Years of hybridizing by breeders have developed soft pastels or brilliant hues. You'll find Lovebirds in nearly any color imaginable - blues, yellows, purples, peaches and so on.

Lovebirds are also a pleasantly sized parrot for most people. They are only 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 inches and about 42-60 grams. Baby Lovebirds will be close to the size of an adult Lovebird.

Life Span

Like other parrots, Lovebirds have a long life span - although not as long as the larger species. They live 15-20 years, approximately the same life span as a cat. It is important to understand the commitment before purchasing a Lovebird.

Lovebirds Are Active Little Parrots

Lovebirds are very energetic and inquisitive. They will happily fly about or sit on your shoulder during daily activities. They are not nervous of usual activity and generally can integrate with a family of busy, noisy children with great enjoyment. Lovebirds love to play and are comical to watch whether they are playing alone splashing in their water dish or playing with your hair and sneaking into your collar.

Your best bet is to buy a hand-raised Lovebird which will be more tame than a parent-raised bird. While Lovebirds are quite fearless and should be supervised closely around other pets, they do enjoy playing with people. Gentle and consistent handling will help prevent nipping.

Lovebirds, like other birds, are born to live among a flock and so they will challenge authority for the dominant position. Sometimes headstrong, the owner of a Lovebird needs to be patient and firm. However, Lovebirds are not overly demanding in most respects and will learn to be well-behaved. They are also content to play alone for periods of time as long as they are given proper space and playthings.

Lovebirds are very intelligent and can even be 'potty' trained to go on a paper or in a trash container instead of around the house. This can make it much easier to allow your Lovebird to enjoy freedom outside the cage without the constant clean up.

Vocalizations

While Lovebirds will learn to mimic the sounds around them, including household noises and other birds, they are not known for mimicking human speech as well as other parrot species.

Despite this you will find your Lovebird to have a strong personality all its own and it will convey its moods and desires quite clearly.

Before buying your Lovebird be sure the owner or breeder can provide additional assistance in helping you settle your bird at home. You are likely to have other questions arise as a first time owner and should look for cooperation for properly learning to care for your pet Lovebird.

Permission is granted to reprint full article "as is" with author credit given below and a link back to http://www.birdwatchin.com. There are no private label resale rights available and the article cannot be modified or your name assigned to it.

Shari Carpenter is the owner of http://www.birdwatchin.com, a one-stop resource for people that love bird watching, backyard bird feeding and pet birds. http://www.birdwatchin.com covers a wide range of information, products and supplies, including the blog "Birdwatchin' Buzz Today!" It is also the place to subscribe to the free newsletter "David's Wild Bird News".

Monday, February 9, 2009

House Training For Your Golden Retriever

Writen by Charles Amith

When you begin house breaking your golden retriever, you should follow a strict routine. Before your pet is properly trained, it's very important that your gold retriever does not spend too much time outside of it's crate. If your pet is roaming around your home, you should watch it carefully. Don't be upset at your pet if it relieves itself in an unwanted area. Your pet is your responsibility!

Training your golden retriever in your home is almost like training a child. In the morning, show your dog where to go. Designate that one location for relieving him or herself. Once your pet does, praise it. Let your pet know that it has urinated or pooped in the correct place.

While your in this training process, you don't want your pet to roam wherever it wants. Neither do you want to let it outside of it's crate when it wants. When an accident happens too much, it could become a habit. Pet's don't learn from their mistakes too easily. You have act like a parent and guide your pet and avoid these accidents as much as possible. Even though your pet might not fee too comfortable going through this process, it's important that you train your pet right so the good actions become good habits.

If you give him too much freedom, your golden retriever could relieve itself on the floor. This might seem like a small thing. You could always clean up the mess and expect it to not happen so easily again. However, this is a major mistake. After you clean up the urine, you might not think that there's anything there. However, there's a good chance that your dog could smell it. This could trigger the action of peeing. So when he smell that area, your dog may identify this as the normal area to relieve itself. Having your dog relieve itself in the right location is very important.

If possible, it would be a good idea to allow your dog a passage, such as a dog door, to go outside. If you're training your golden retriever to relieve itself outside, you should use a litter box or a wee-wee pad at the designated location. If you don't have a outside passage, having wee-wee pads (also known as underpads) will be sufficient in an indoor environment. These can allow your dog to easily identify where it should go incase it has to go.

The process of house breaking your golden retriever could be time consuming, as well as frustrating. It's important that you praise your dog and follow a strict regiment. Treat him like he's a part of the family. Once your dog is properly trained, things will be much easier. So make sure your pet is properly trained!

Charles Amith is a successful Webmaster and publisher of http://GoldenRetrieverWeb.com. Charles provides informative content on taking care of your loved pet, as well as information on house training your golden retriever.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Seeing Past Cuteness When Selecting The Best Dog Breed For You Part 2 Of 3

Writen by Kathleen Newton

Are there so many great dog breeds out there that you just can't decide where to begin? If so, let's break it down and sort through all the options. In Part 2 of this 3 Part Series, we'll continue looking at the seven Groups of dogs that are acknowledged by the American Kennel Club. We'll learn what it is that brings various breeds together to form a Group. Learning about each Group will narrow down our search for the best Breed(s) for us.

How to Use this Guide: Highlight each piece of information that is most important to you and compare the number of highlighted traits when you have finished reading about each Group.

Group: Working

Group Traits: Powerfully built; Protective of owner; fearless

Likes: Structure and routine; Predictability

Dislikes: Unexpected events

Behavior Indoors: Low to moderate

Behavior Outdoors: Moderate to active

Physicality: High

Territoriality: High

Relations with Children: Good to very good (particularly family)

Relations with Strangers: Reserved

Relations with Dogs: Moderate to Dominant

Relations with Other Animals: Good

Guard dog inclinations: Moderate to High

Vocalization: Moderate (High when guarding)

Group: Terrier

Group Traits: Determined; high stamina; feisty; digger; fearless

Likes: Activity; Learning new things

Dislikes: Boredom; confinement; harsh discipline

Behavior Indoors: Active

Behavior Outdoors: Active

Physicality: High (high threshold for pain)

Territoriality: Moderate to high

Relations with Children: Poor to Good

Relations with Strangers: Poor to Good

Relations with Dogs: Moderate to Good (do well with like breeds)

Relations with Other Animals: May chase (prey drive)

Guard dog inclinations: Great watchdog, poor guard dog due to size

Vocalization: Moderate to high

Group: Toy

Group Traits: Bred to be companion; prefer favorite person; indoor only; bright problem solvers

Likes: Attention; laps; soft furniture; warmth;

Dislikes: Harsh reprimands; hectic, unpredictable environment

Behavior Indoors: Active

Behavior Outdoors: Moderate to active

Physicality: Low to moderate

Territoriality: Moderate to high

Relations with Children: Poor to Good

Relations with Strangers: Poor to Very Good

Relations with Dogs: Subordinate to good

Relations with Other Animals: Moderate to good

Guard dog inclinations: Good watchdog, poor guard dog due to size

Vocalization: Moderate to very verbal

*Note: Use this information as a general guide at best. The most we can hope to offer is a stereotypical overview of what you might be able to expect, or what you may want to look for, in dogs in each Group. Breeds and individual dogs in each Group can vary greatly in traits and personalities.

Part 3 in this series will discuss the following Groups: Herding Dogs and Non-Sporting.

The author has worked with dogs and dog people for two decades, advocating for smart selections before a new dog is brought into a home and always stressing responsible selection and ownership for the good of the dog, the family and the community. She also makes dog and cat art available to the companion animal industry and to animal lovers at http://www.GreatandSmallGallery.com

Friday, February 6, 2009

How To Train Your Dog And Influence Behavior Get Your Dog To Do What You Want When You Want

Writen by Eric Letendre

When she walked into my office I tried to keep the surprised look off my face. Her eyes were black and blue and her nose was swollen beyond belief. As she sat down she started to cry and had a difficult time talking. I got her a glass of water and let her know to take her time. Once she gained control, she informed me that her dog was responsible for her broken nose and black eyes.

She went on to tell me that her dog had injured her arm and wrist and her leg. She said that she loved her dog. She also added that her dog was a large black lab and in no way aggressive. Her dog had injured her by jumping, pulling, and in general not listening to her commands. She said that the latest incident had happened a few days before. She told me that she was getting ready to walk her dog. She had put her dog on leash and was about to go out the door. Just as she was about to exit the house through the front door, her dog saw a cat across the street and took off at full speed.

She hung on to the leash and tripped trying to go out the door. She went face first into the door and broke her nose. At this point she teared up again and said that she loved her dog but didn't know if she could keep him. She had no control. I told her not to worry, and that we would get her dog under control.

I taught her my system for dealing with behavior problems, what I call my M.U.T.T. Method. The M stands for Manage, U for Underlying, T for Training, and the last T is for Time.

M=Management – A big part of dog ownership is effectively managing your dog's behavior. Crates, kennels, baby gates, and leashes are some tools to help you manage your dog's behavior. In this case, we put a gentle leader head collar on her dog to help manage her dog's pulling problem.

A gentle leader works by controlling the dog's head. In principle, it works a lot like a horse bridle. It makes it much more difficult for the dog to pull, and it gives you much better control over the dog on leash.

U=Underlying – Whenever you are dealing with a behavior problem you have to understand that there is an underlying problem. For instance, if a dog is digging there could be many different underlying reasons for the digging. It could be that the dog is bored, frustrated, hot, or it could be breed specific. Terriers love to dig.

In this situation, we figured that one of the big underlying reasons was lack of exercise. Her dog was loaded with energy. We came up with a plan to have her son bring the dog to the park three times a week on a long leash. He would spend about 45 minutes throwing a ball for her dog. In addition to the ball playing, she brought her dog to a dog daycare three times a week. By giving her dog some intensive, aerobic exercise her dog started to calm down.

T=Train – We put her dog on a training program that consisted of the basics (sit, down, stay, walk, and come). She or her son had to spend at least ten minutes each day doing a training session. We focused on teaching her dog to greet politely at the door and stop pulling. By using the gentle leader she was able to walk her dog past very distracting situations. She even expressed her amazement when she crossed other dogs and animals during their walks and was able to control him.

In addition to the obedience training she also learned how to teach her dog that she was the leader. She had her dog work for attention, food, and playing. By establishing some leadership she gained much better control.

T=Time – Any behavior program is going to require time. By following the steps that we outlined she started to see changes within a short period of time. By following the program for 21 days, those changes would become stronger and stronger.

Any time you're faced with a behavior problem, remember the acronym M.U.T.T. and apply each step. You'll be happy with the results.

About the Author: Eric Letendre started his dog training business in August of 1995. He has worked as an animal control officer, training director, and provided K-9 security consulting for such institutions as World Wide Plaza in Manhattan, and Hartford Hospital. He has also helped numerous animal shelters and has published two books. To learn more about his newest book, "The Amazing Dog Training Man," you can visit his website http://www.AmazingDogTrainingMan.com.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

The 5 Things You Should Know Before Breeding Cats

Writen by Marc De Jong

The cat population is astronomical. Most experts agree that average cat owners should spay their cat, not breed. Still there are people who want to have a litter from their pet. But there's a lot to think about before planning a feline family.

Here are five things you should know:

1. It takes time. You'll have to clean the nest every day, for two months. You should keep an eye on the kittens and watch their development – you won't have time for a holiday.

2. It takes space. It's not a good idea to breed if you have a 3-room apartment. Your family members should agree with your plan of having kittens. You can't lock up these little balls of fur. They'll go everywhere - in your partner's study, in your baby's bedroom, your kitchen, your bathroom.

3. It takes responsibility. Do you know beforehand that you will find a good home for your kittens? Some of your friends or relatives will say 'Yes, lovely, I'll take one of them'. But one or another may change his/her mind once the moment is near. Are you willing to keep the kitten that nobody wants?

4. It takes education. Have you thought about what could happen at birth? Do you know how to cut an umbilical cord? What to do if a newborn remains in its fluid filled sac? What supplies you need? How to know when a c-section is necessary? What to feed a pregnant cat?

5. It takes money. Kittens cost more money than you probably think. It's not only the food. Even if you go through pregnancy without a vet's help, you need to have them vaccinated and dewormed.

Yes, there's a lot to think about! However, if you really want to breed, make sure you get the right information, so you are prepared for the best and the worst.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marc de Jong runs an acclaimed web site on cats and is the author of the book How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com. In this book vets and breeders reveal the secrets they use to help a cat deliver and raise a healthy litter.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Dog Care 6 Easy Steps For A Terrific And Safe Romp In The Woods

Writen by ONeal Hendrix

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks....

What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you'll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.

I don't know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I've developed a list of easy dog care to-do's to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.

I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:

1. Orange vests for you and your dog

This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn't see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don't shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don't be the next casualty -- don your orange vests!

2. Current dog tags on collars

Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read "I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx". This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn't provide information for an easy abduction. I don't want someone to know my babies' names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.

3. Foot and body check during and after the outing

I check my dogs' paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season -- gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.

4. Fresh water and a bowl

If I can help it, I don't let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.

5. Towels

I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.

6. Whistle -- long range

Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don't like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.

These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.

Happy hiking!

O'Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. For many years, she has "worked miracles" with dogs and their owners. Check out her dog training blog for her advice about everything dog!

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Use Dog Clothes To Help You Bond With Your New Dog

Writen by Connie Limon

There are over 65 million dogs in the United States. Every one of them is special. Whether your dog is the family pet or a Westminster champion, you have an awesome treasure. There is no other creature as close and integrated into the human psyche and human culture as the dog. A family dog eats in the kitchen and sleeps in the bedroom. He munches on snacks as he watches television with his owners. Some of these dogs get their toenails painted pink and red.

Your dog is special. He probably is the most beautiful dog you ever seen and quite possibly the most beautiful on the earth to you. He amuses you. He charms you. He makes you laugh when your friends have made you cry. Your dog will never grow up, go to college, get married or get a job. Your mischievous little puppy will hang around your house until he is old and maybe a bit senile. He will always be your little boy or your little girl.

It is quite normal to want to dress up your dog in the latest of designer dog clothes and accessories. It is normal to want to have that perfect carrier for your little pal to take him along on shopping trips and everywhere you can. You miss him when he is left behind.

Today we have a wide variety of choices in dog fashions. The toy dogs especially look cute in little dog clothes, but the bigger dogs can look just as cute and fancy. There is something for every breed and every size of dog in dog clothing.

Dogs are wonderful, adaptable, amazing animals. As long as the clothing is restrictive, most dogs love the extra attention of getting dressed up. Good dogs can be found anywhere. Bad dogs can be found anywhere. You can find a good dog from responsible breeders, irresponsible breeders, backyard breeders, shelters, rescue organizations, neighbors, newspaper ads, relatives, pet stores, the alley or the highway in front of your house. Wherever you get your dog, once he finds out you are his friend and not his foe, putting a warm fleece t-shirt on him in the chilly weather only makes him feel more at home and secure with you, which in turn, can help to mold him into the "good dog" you want him to be. A good dog often times begins with a good owner regardless of where you get your dog..

As a dog owner, you can expect to deal with housetraining mistakes, chewing, nipping, health crises, digging, and barking regardless of where you obtained your dog. Very few dogs will present you with all these problems, but no dog is trouble-free. Don't let that scare you. The good far outweighs the bad. Acquire some good dog keeping skills. This will require action, resolving problems, planning and some sacrifice.

Somehow dogs seem to know which owners are committed to them and which aren't. Dressing up your dog in designer dog clothes is a very powerful way of showing commitment to your 4-legged best friend. Putting a tiny dog dress on your toy dog is a terrific way to get started on the right foot toward dog owner success. Try it and see the difference in can make in your relationship with your dog.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She offers Designer Dog Clothes at: http://www.littleguysdogclothesshop.com