Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Shih Tzu The Hotly Contested Question Of Shih Tzu Size Part I

Writen by Connie Limon

Throughout the entire period of Shih Tzu development in the United States no other topic about the Shih Tzu has been more hotly contested than Shih Tzu size. When the standard was established it was hoped all Shih Tzu fanciers would settle down and breed exactly to that standard. It has never been the case. Controversy over Shih Tzu size still rages. These differences of opinion cannot be dismissed as being "the smaller sizes are only rejects or Shih Tzu puppies born with excessive health problems." This is just not true at all to account for the smaller size Shih Tzu puppies that have always been in existence. The statements of breeders who have these small sizes obtained them through "faulty and irresponsible breeding, or instances of in-breeding and line-breeding of relatives is also "false." The truth to any breeding can be traced on the pedigrees to prove the smaller Shih Tzu was not the result of in-breeding and line-breeding with close relatives. These smaller size Shih Tzu have been in existence since the Chinese Imperial Palace days. There are several documented Shih Tzu history facts to prove that this is the most probable reason for the smaller Shih Tzu, so many people commonly "nickname" the Imperial Shih Tzu or the Teacup Shih Tzu. The size of a Shih Tzu does not dictate the health of that Shih Tzu. Health problems exist in all sizes of the Shih Tzu, and not the direct result of producing a smaller size Shih Tzu.

One fact that remains is that the breed is in the Toy Group. The Shih Tzu should therefore be "Toy" in size.

In the Shih Tzu breed's early days in the United States, there were several reasons for the controversy over size in addition to personal preferences. None of these reasons have been documented as being "a small size Shih Tzu has more health problems," or….a small size Shih Tzu is produced by excessive irresponsible in-breeding and line-breeding of close relatives.

During the years between 1967 and 1972 when the Shih Tzu was striving for recognition there was many arguments and much material of correspondence produced regarding their size, and exactly what size should the Shih Tzu be. There had been strong evidence of cross-breeding of Shih Tzu to Lhasa Apso to achieve a desired size once the standard was established. There was also a substantial amount of correspondence and documents revealing that cross-breeding to reduce the size of the British imports had been practiced. Many confused people bred small Lhasa Apso to undersized or small Shih Tzu to try to get what they wanted. This did not become a trend and was not considered the ideal way to create the correct size Shih Tzu according to the set standard now in place.

There are also times in history of the Shih Tzu when using other breeds was necessary. Establishing the Shih Tzu is of a very long history, of which many different people were involved, with many different ideas of what the Shih Tzu should look like. On the question of size, there are definite historical facts to account for the smaller sizes in which none are stated to be: "If a small size Shih Tzu is produced, it is ONLY the runt of that litter, and will be full of health problems, or a sickly Shih Tzu." Neither do the historical facts about size of the Shih Tzu document the smaller Shih Tzu were a result of irresponsible in-breeding and line-breeding of close relatives.

According to a well known Shih Tzu fancier of our Shih Tzu history, Colonel Burkhardt, the imperial Shih Tzu (meaning those Shih Tzu bred in the Chinese Imperial Palace by the Empress Dowager) were occasionally interbred with the Pekingese "to reduce the size." This particular Shih Tzu fancier, Colonel Burkhardt, wrote from first hand experience of Peking Palace life not long after the 1912 revolution. (please see Part II of Shih Tzu – The Hotly Contested Question Of Size).

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

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Monday, September 29, 2008

What You Need To Know To Keep Your Dog Safe In Your Car

Writen by Niall Kennedy

Man's Best Friend is a great companion around the home, but Rover will love joining you on road trips - short or long - as well. If you've tried taking your dog along in the car before and met with bad results, don't give up. It might take a little longer to help your pet feel comfortable after a bad experience, but you can train your dog to ride quietly in the car. It requires foresight and patience on your part, but the rewards are worth it.

What kind of personality does your dog have? Is she a confident, mellow pooch or a high-energy, somewhat fearful animal? Consider, too, your relationship with your dog. Does she see you as the pack leader and obey your commands? Both of these factors have an impact on how much work you'll need to do before the two of you hit the road. A dog that is calm by nature and obedient will more quickly adjust to sitting still in a moving vehicle. On the other hand, a "hyper" animal that doesn't respond to basic obedience commands requires specific training to ensure her (and your) safety in the car.

Remember not to shout at Rover if she does something wrong - this will only upset her and may make her misbehave even more.

An uncontrolled animal is a serious car accident waiting to happen. It is important to keep your dog confined to one area of the car. This might be the back of a truck or SUV, a kennel, or simply sitting on the seat, secured by a safety harness designed for use in cars. If you plan on using a safety harness, introduce it to your dog outside of the car. Let her sniff and otherwise investigate it. Drape it over her and praise her when she stands quietly. If she shakes it off and runs, try again using treats and only placing it against her so she gets the feel of it.

Once she accepts having it placed over her, let her wear it while you take walks or sitting in her kennel. Be sure to give her treats and verbal praise whenever you put the safety harness on her. Make sure you have her favorite toy in the car, and a trusted human friend sitting beside her will help relax her too. You want your dog to associate the car with positive things.

The same holds true for car rides in general. If the only time your dog rides in the car is to go to the vet's surgery she'll associate the car with an unpleasant experience. Let Rover sit in the car while it is parked to let her get used to sitting in the car. Once your dog is used to sitting in a confined space, take her for short rides. If she has gotten carsick in the past, drive slowly along as straight a path as possible. Take her for a ride at least once a day, slowly increasing the distance and speed. Talk to her in a happy voice as you go, and give her a treat before you take her out, so she connects the car ride to something yummy.

The sight of a dog with her head out the car window, nose in the wind, makes just about everyone smile. Smell is your dog's best sense. With the window down, she's picking up all kinds of new, interesting smells. This stimulating experience is fine at slow speeds for short distances, be careful about letting your dog make it a habit. While dogs love the feel of the wind in their noses, dust and debris can cause respiratory problems.

If you can ensure that your dog is safe, and enjoying herself, in the car, you will find that going for a drive with your best friend will enhance both your life, and Rover's, too.

Best Pet Health Information

http://www.best-pet-health.info is a resource which will help you find infomation, hints and tips to keep your dog happy and healthy. Dog News Center publishes news and articles about dogs and puppies.

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Saturday, September 27, 2008

Why Does My Dog Have Bad Breath

Writen by Sherry Massey

"Doggy breath" – that unpleasant odor emanating from the mouths of Rover and Boomer – can be a signal of serious health problems.

A dog's mouth is his primary means of contact with the world around him. He uses his mouth to eat, to investigate and to communicate. The jaws are a powerful tool used to grind, gnaw, crush and carry. Keeping this part of your pet's body healthy is vital to his quality of life and longevity.

Fifty to eighty percent of all dogs suffer from periodontal disease. Tartar buildup is the primary cause. Just as in humans, small particles of food remain on the teeth after eating. If not removed, these particles decompose, causing the growth of bacteria that then forms plaque and tartar. As tartar grows, it literally pushes the gums away from the teeth which then loosen over time. Loose teeth reveal root sockets which can easily become infected. In untreated cases, the infection can travel from the root socket to the dog's bloodstream where the bacteria takes up residence in the kidney, liver and heart causing disease of these organs.

How do I recognize periodontal disease in my dog?

There are specific signs and symptoms that indicate mouth problems including a change in eating habits. While not all dogs suffering from periodontal disease change feeding habits, changes can be an indication of trouble. Pawing at the mouth, abnormal drooling, mouth tenderness, facial inflammation, obvious oral bleeding, sneezing, nasal discharge and swelling around the eyes are also indicators of mouth problems. The most obvious and usually the first sign of a problem, though, is that tale tell bad breath.

What can I do to prevent and/or treat my pet's periodontal disease?

The experts agree that a diet consisting of primarily soft canned food is not a good idea. "The buildup of plaque in pets' soft canned diets is very rapid," says R. Hines, DVM. Opinions differ on the tartar-removing properties of hard foods, but experts DO agree that crunchy, dry food does not adhere to the teeth as much and therefore tartar and plaque do not build up as quickly.

Besides diet, yearly dental checkups are advised. Even if you don't give annual vaccinations, regular oral exams by a professional can make a huge difference in your pet's health. Herbal supplements such as Echinacea and other herbal medicines can be used internally to improve immune system health. Herbs can also be used as a tea or mouthwash. (Our next newsletter will address the issue of herbs and our pets.)

If you do suspect periodontal disease already at work, do not hesitate to visit your veterinarian for a professional cleaning and possible antibiotic treatment if he detects an infection.

The most important thing you can do to protect your pet's dental health is to brush his teeth! Use a child's toothbrush and a toothpaste developed for pets. Your vet can advise on the best methods of training your dog to let you brush his teeth.

Good dental health and preventative care can add years to your dog's life and save him undue suffering from kidney, liver and heart disease. Its never too late to get started!

Looking for an all-natural dry food to benefit your pet's dental health? Take a look at Flint River Ranch, available from Barker and Friends at www.naturalbarker.com. Flint River Ranch's all natural ingredients promote good overall health with easily digestible kibble free of chemical preservatives and additives. Combining a healthy dry food, all natural treats from Barker and Friends at www.naturalbarker.com and regular dental exams can help your furry friend live a long and happy life.

An encouraging word:

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future."
Jeremiah 29:11

Sherry Massey is the owner of a home-based natural dog treat bakery, Barker and Friends. Our goal is to not only provide you with the best all-natural treat and pet food on the market, but to share valuable information that will allow our furry loved ones to live longer, healthier and happier lives. Check our website at http://www.naturalbarker.com or contact us at barkerandfriends@cox.net.

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Friday, September 26, 2008

What Colors Look Best On Your Dog

Writen by Connie Limon

A dog's color chart is grouped under four categories:

1. Autumn
2. Winter
3. Spring
4. Summer

Autumn:

Hair: Golden brown, red, auburn or chestnut.
Eyes: Dark brown, hazel or dark green.
Typical breeds: Brussels Griffons, Pomeranians, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Papillons

The Autumn palette includes:

• Neutrals: off whites, warm beiges, warm browns from light to dark, camel, gold.

• Mustard, pumpkin, terra cotta, rust, peach, and salmon

• Orange, orange-red, tomato red.

• Lime green, yellow-green, moss green, grayed green, olive green, jade green, forest green.

• Turquoise, teal blue, dark periwinkle blue.

• Jewelry: Gold

Winter:
Hair: Black, ash black, brown
Eyes: Blue, brown, hazel, or green
Typical breeds: Affenpinschers, Scotties, Yorkies, Poodles, and Min Pins

The Winter palette includes:

• Neutrals: white, light grays to charcoal gray, black, taupe, navy

• True blue, royal blue, turquoise, royal purple.

• True green, emerald green, pine green.

• Hot pink, magenta, fuchsia, burgundy, blue-red, and true red.

• Icy green, icy yellow, icy aqua, icy violet, icy pink, icy blue.

• Jewelry: Silver

Spring:
Hair: Golden blonde, golden brown, or red.
Eyes, blue, blue-gray, blue green or light turquoise green
Typical breeds: Pugs, Pekingese, Bichon Frises, and Maltese

The Spring palette includes:

• Neutrals: Ivory, light to medium beiges, light to medium browns, warm gray, and navy.

• Violet, periwinkle, true blue, aqua, and turquoise.

• Apricot, peach, salmon, corals warm pink, clear bright red, light orange, and orange-red.

• Pastel to bright yellow green, golden yellow, and clear gold.

• Jewelry: Gold

Summer:
Hair: Ash blonde, light ash brown
Eyes: Blue gray or blue green
Typical breeds: Chihuahuas, Shih Tzu, and Chinese Crested Dogs.

The Summer palette includes:

• Neutrals: Soft white, rose-beiges, rose-browns, blue-gray, navy.

• Powder blue from light to medium, periwinkle, aqua, blue-greens from light to deep.

• Blue pinks from light to medium, watermelon red, blue-red, burgundy.

• Lavender, raspberry, soft fuchsia, plum, and lemon yellow.

• Jewelry: Silver

In general most dogs look good in black. The color of Aqua is stunning on a white coat. Dressing your dog in the right color is a little hard than with humans. Have fun experimenting with which colors look best on your dog. What really counts most is that you adore your dog. Dressing your dog helps to communicate those adoration feelings you have for him, and you know that dog will feel the same way about you!

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. Buy designer dog clothes at: http://www.littleguysdogclothesshop.com

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Thursday, September 25, 2008

The Boston Terrier Dog A True American Gentleman

Writen by Blake Kritzberg

The Boston terrier, one of the few breeds that can claim to be truly American, is a lively, curious and smart companion that's always ready to play. At one time, Boston terriers were actually the most popular breed in the US. Today, they're still a clear favorite among the thousands of dog lovers who want a medium-sized, intelligent pet.

Because of its Bull terrier or Bulldog background, the Boston (classed with the non-sporting breeds by the AKC) is alert and keen to learn new tricks and jobs. Bostons like children and will play games with them for hours on end. A well-bred Boston isn't vicious, but pretty able to take care of himself. Boston fanciers like to call this breed the "American Gentleman," obviously because of his formal, tux-like markings, but also because his personality is gentlemanly and even as well. The Boston's friendliness, alertness and courage make him an ideal pet and companion dog. Always alert, he'll also let you know of any strange sounds in the night.

For many families, the Boston terrier is a terrific choice not only because of his compact size and pleasant temperament, but because of his low-maintenance coat. Smooth and short-coated, the Boston goes easy on your carpets and furniture and does well in smaller spaces. It's good to remember, though, that Bostons don't take well to extremes in temperature. They're inside dogs, as their coat affords little protection. On cold days, you may want to get out some warm booties or a coat for your Boston.

A well-bred Boston terrier will look like the active, intelligent, short-headed and short-tailed dog that he is. The ones that conform to type will have symmetrical white markings, ideally against a brindle color. Black with white markings are also conforming, although brindle is preferred.

Bostons come in a variety of sizes. Naturally, some owners prefer the small ones, while others like a more romping, substantial-sized dog. Either one will make a great pet with very little grooming required, all of which can be done at home. If you think you want a Boston but aren't quite ready to make the commitment, you can get a hilarious Boston Terrier screensaver from Must Love Dogs at Warner Brothers.

Blake Kritzberg is editor of FavorIdeas. Stop by for continually-updated celebrity wedding news, remarkable beach wedding favors, exclusive hairstyling articles and gorgeous and unique wedding favors.

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Wednesday, September 24, 2008

How To Choose A Good Dog Obedience School

Writen by Peter Tyler

There are so many dog obedience schools and training centres that its often difficult to know what to look for in choosing one.

It is essential to decide what you want to achieve out of attending dog obedience training and it's a good start to ask yourself the following questions:

1. Would you prefer one to one training, or group lessons?

One to one training is significantly more expensive than group lessons, so you should consider the budget that you have set for the training.

2. What is the aim of attending dog obedience training?

Is it for puppy socialisation? Is it simply general training; walking to heel, sitting etc? Do you intend to compete in obedience trials? Are you interested in any specialist disciplines; i.e trick training, Heelwork to Music, agility?

3. What type of atmosphere would you like?

Would you like to join a proper "Dog club", with all of its associated social activities and competitions? Or are you just looking for somewhere to train your dog once a week? Once you have a good idea in your mind of what you are looking for, then you're ready to start contacting relevant dog obedience schools and finding out whether they meet what you're looking for.

It's a good idea to visit the dog obedience schools, attend a lesson (without your dog), and talk to the trainers. You should trust your instincts when deciding whether you think you and your dog will fit into the training classes and enjoy working with the trainers.

A serious consideration in your decision should be the methods of training used by the dog obedience schools; you should look for trainers who believe in kind, positive methods of training. Dog trainers who encourage the use of choke chains or any kind of rough handling, should be avoided at all costs.

There are professional associations, regulating some dog obedience schools, so you may prefer to choose a dog obedience class that is regulated by one of these associations. But do remember that there are lots of good obedience schools that may not be registered with the associations.

Stephanie has written many articles on dogs and dog training which can be found at the Kennel Corner website. Kennel Corner also contains a useful Dog Obedience Schools search facility to find your closest training school.

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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Airedale Terrier History Amp Breeder Information

Writen by Lane Jordan

The Airedale Terrier originated from the Aire Dale in Yorkshire, England. Commonly referred to as 'Airedales' these large dogs were originally bred to hunt otters, but their versatility allows them to meet most challenges. The Airedale's size ranges from 50 to 70 pounds. Airedale's have a "broken coat" that needs to be regularly groomed and maintained to keep its distinctive look. The term Stripping is referred to has the proper way to groom an Airedales coat. This involves using a small serrated edged knife to extract loose and old hair. The Airedale's broken coat is a wiry topcoat with a soft undercoat. Broken coats do not shed nearly as smooth coats. The breed standard coat colors accepted by the AKC are black saddle, with a tan head, ears and legs; or a dark grizzle saddle (black mixed with gray and white).

Usually Airedale Terrier puppies get their tail docked, but this is not an AKC requirement. They have black gums with the largest teeth of any dog in the terrier group. Airedale's teeth are quite sharp. Airedale's are primarily used for working, hunting, and retrieving. They have a stubborn, strong-willed temperament, complemented by a great sense of humor. They are reliable companions and very effective protective dogs.

Hip dysplasia is the only inherited disease common to the Airedale and they are not anymore prone to it than most dogs. Being in the Terrier group, Airedales can be prone towards dermatitis. Airedale's usually live to be about 12 years old, however many have lived several years longer; some as long as 17 years old. The Airedale Terrier was created by the British in the mid 19th century by mixing the White English, Irish, and Black and Tan Terriers together. This resulted in a very intelligent, hard working, versatile dog breed comfortable working on land and in the water. Airedale are truly an all-purpose dog. Airedale's played a crucial role during World War I by carrying messages to British and other allied soldiers located in the trenches often under horrible conditions. The bond created between humans and Airedale's during this period will forever be unbreakable. Airedale Terrier's make great pet dogs

For more information about Airedale Terrier puppies & breeder information please visit: Pets4You.com - Dogs | Cats

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Monday, September 22, 2008

Buying A New Horse Trailer

Writen by Neva Scheve

There are certain things you should consider when buying a new horse trailer. After all, you want make sure that you're getting a safe, quality trailer that meets the needs of your horse(s), as well as your own needs.

The first and foremost thing you should consider when shopping for a new horse trailer is your horse(s). Keep in mind that horses are claustrophobic by nature. Therefore, a trailer with plenty of room, light, and ventilation will create less stress on the horse. In turn, the horse will load more easily and will travel more comfortably. He will also be less likely to injure himself and will be less likely to suffer from stress-related health problems such as shipping fever, dehydration, and colic.

The Importance of the Size of the Horse

The size of your horse is a very important factor to consider. Most likely, you don't enjoy being cramped-up in tight quarters when you travel. And, neither does your horse! If the horse doesn't have enough room to move its legs forward and sideways, it could lose its balance while moving. Narrow trailers and trailers with full center dividers can potentially cause the horse to scramble, because he does not have enough space to spread his legs to keep his balance. Be aware that slant load trailers are not styled for horses that are over 15.3h, and the length of the stall is not long enough to allow the horse freedom of movement. Horses over 15.3h should have at least 7 feet of stall length and 3 feet of head area - 10 feet overall. In the past, a 7 foot tall trailer was considered extra tall.

Today, however, it isn't unusual for trailers to be 7'4" to 7'6" tall. This height should be considered for any horse over 15.3h. There should also be enough room for the horse to lower its head to remove debris (hay dust and other contaminants in the trailer) by coughing, in order to keep his respiratory tract clear.

Make sure there are no sharp edges or protrusions anywhere on the trailer. (Check both inside and out.) Look at the floor boards. These should run the length of the trailer (vertically), not across the trailer (horizontally), and there should be good support underneath.

Floor mats and ramps should be non-slip. Ramps should not be steep. If it's a step-up trailer, the horse should be able to walk out headfirst when unloading. (Step-up trailers can be dangerous when backing the horse out, because the horse can slip under the trailer and possibly receive a major injury, as a result.)

For safer trailering, rubber torsion suspension is available on almost all newer trailers. This type of suspension greatly reduces the amount of shock. As a result, the horse absorbs less shock through the floor of the trailer, thereby reducing stress to the horse. Also, if the trailer should have a flat tire, rubber torsion suspension allows the remaining three wheels to maintain the trailer until you can get to a safe place to change the tire.

Quick-release mechanisms on all tie rings, center dividers, chest bars, and butt bars are a must-have for safety and convenience. Construction material and all other parts should be strong enough to hold up to the largest, strongest horse you will be hauling. In fact, the strength of the trailer, not its weight, should be your first priority, if you have large horses to haul. How well will the trailer hold up to a panicky horse or in a traffic accident?

Now that you've taken into consideration the needs of your horse(s), it's time to consider your own needs. Do you need a trailer for hauling horses long distances or short distances? If you'll be frequently traveling long distances, will you need a dressing room for showing or a gooseneck for sleeping? Are you comfortable towing a large rig across the country? (Keep in mind that, once you've chosen the right horse trailer for you, you'll need to buy a tow vehicle to pull the trailer.)

These are just a few of the considerations when purchasing a new horse trailer.

Neva Scheve is the author of The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. She and her husband Tom are the owners of EquiSpirit Horse Trailers. Built for your horse's safety.

http://www.equispirit.com

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Sunday, September 21, 2008

Feral Cats Societys Problem Children

Writen by Cris Mandelin-Wood

There is a lot of talk going on about what to do with the issue of feral cat population.

Some measures have been proposed which will allow residents to kill what they perceive to be feral cats on their property. This suggestion has caused a bit of a stir, and amongst cat lovers, it is quite understandable. Cats are natural wanderers and a treasured feline may make a mischievous dash out of its home only to find itself hunted quarry in a neighboring property.

There are more humane solutions being practiced right now which entail trapping feral cats, neutering and then releasing them back to their environment (TNR). Critics of this method maintain that the problem of cat predation on local small animal populations still exists after neutering, and that a continuous supply of stray cats are finding their fertile way into these feral communities every day. Thus, any positive gains realized by the TNR program are being constantly negated by the actions, or inactions, of irresponsible pet owners.

There doesn't appear to be any immediate, cut and dry solution to feral cats except to keep employing the TNR program and educating the public about how to be accountable for their cats. Local laws can be enacted to impose fines on owners whose cats are caught wandering on a frequent basis. Social pressure can be fostered in the form of campaigns that suggest it is absolutely not cool and downright irresponsible to have unneutered or unspayed cats wandering around. This, of course, would not be applied to owners of show and working cats where planned breeding is necessary for their specific breed.

It comes down to the fact that over 64% of U.S. households have pets, and the majority of these pets are considered as family members. Cats are the rebellious, independent members of the family unit. They shouldn't be left to their own devices nor should they be discarded like disposable lighters. Similar to any wayward teenager of a family, special measures and tolerances have to be adopted in order to get the loved ones through a difficult time in their lives and bring them back into the fold of family unity. Cats are a bit different in that they are "wayward children" for life, however, they can be conditioned to accept a house-bound lifestyle. Having them spayed or neutered (we're talking about cats now - not teenagers) will help temper their wanderlust a little, and there are some great outdoor "playpens" and containment equipment designed just for the benefit of felines. Some cats can be trained to walk on a leash for nightly jaunts, however, that may not be particularly healthy for you or the cat if there are too many unleashed dogs in the neighborhood.

Do what you can to help alleviate the problem of cats turning feral. The animal welfare organizations and volunteers are doing what they can to deal with the current populations by using TNR, rescuing and adopting of cats. But the flow of new, fertile, domestic cats into the feral communities must be stopped at the family, neighborhood and regional level. This is accomplished through public awareness campaigns, teaching school children about responsible pet ownership, social pressure and individual involvement. It's a long uphill road, yet it can be accomplished, one or two kitties at a time.

Cris Mandelin-Wood owns several websites covering domestic animals as well as Web information services and products. Animal welfare issues are of special interest. To sign up for the monthly Critterbytes Ezine, go to http://shelters.theanimalnet.com and select the state you live in. Once there you will find a listing of local animal welfare organizations and a sign up box for the ezine.

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Saturday, September 20, 2008

Vegos First Ride

Writen by Todd Mera

A Little Background

Vego (Thoroughbred/Percheron gelding) is about 2 years old. I have spent many hours doing ground work with him. He knows how to move away from pressure, lounge, back up, jump over logs, etc. When I bought Vego he was 4 months old and had never been touched by humans. So, I spent a significant amount of time getting to know him and of course on groundwork. In additions I spent a portion of every training session getting him used to loud sounds, plastic bags, walking over tarps, crossing water, crazy humans jumping up and down beside him and of course wearing a saddle. About 2 weeks before I decided to ride Vego I did two things. First, I would have him wear a saddle during each training session. After his session was over, I would put him in a round pen and leave him there with the saddle on while I worked with other horses.

Second, Vego did all of his training sessions with a hackamore. I used a regular rope hackamore, not a mechanical hackamore. I made sure that I could use the hackamore to flex his head to either side and have him stop and touch his girth. I also made sure I could yield his hind quarters with leg pressure behind the girth and then flex his head and have him come to a stop. This is a technique the Clinton Anderson, John Lyons and many other Natural Horsemanship practitioners use to get a horse to become more flexible and to stop during the early stages of training. The main goal was to make sure I could stop Vego if all hell broke loose. Remember, Vego and I had been preparing for this day for some time and I felt that Vego was ready. If I had concerns about riding him, I would have continued the groundwork until he was ready for the first ride.

I remember the second time I saddled Vego

The first time I saddled Vego was very uneventful. I saddled him up in the round pen, lounged him around and he was OK with it. No bucking, no rolling, it was like this was old news and he could care less. However, the second time I saddled him was a little bit more exciting. I saddled him up as usual and I walked him to the center of the arena. I then lounged him in a circle and immediately he began to buck. He was going to kick that saddle off! His font legs went into the air followed by his back legs with a big kick to the rear. Wow, this horse really could get into the air. He kicked a few more time and that was it. He has never tried to kick the saddle of again. One of the reasons that Vego was so good about letting me saddle him was because of all the groundwork that went into him in the beginning. This not only included the groundwork that took place during our regular training session but the little 5 minute exercises that we did during feeding and any other time I had, well, 5 minutes (More 5 Minute Training Exercises http://www.trainingthehorse.com/?cat=16).

Ready to ride

For our first ride I just wanted Vego to walk, trot, turn and stop in the round pen. I would provide leg queues and use the hackamore to direct his nose and bring him to a stop. But, for the most part the commands came from my wife, Rachael. So here is what we did. When mounting the horse I would stand up in one stirrup and stop. I would then pet Vego, slap the stirrup leathers and make some noise while keeping his nose tilted towards me. I would then step down and pet Vego. I did this a few times in order to make sure he was not worried about me being above him. I did this from both sides of the horse. Next, I stepped up in the stirrup and swung my other leg over the saddle. I sat there for a few minutes flexing his head to the left and right. Vego was doing such a great job. I would also pet Vego and let him know he was doing a good job.

Next, I had Rachael direct him around the arena. She would send him off in one direction and then ask him to do an inside turn and go in the other direction. We would also ask him to stop frequently to make sure we had control of his feet. When we (Rachael Vego and I) were comfortable with the walk, Rachael asked Vego to trot. Vego would trot about half way around the round pen and Rachael would ask him to turn the other direction. We would also have him stop regularly by yielding the hind quarters and then flexing his head to the inside. Vego did not buck, he was not frightened and did a great job that day. We worked in the round pen for about 30 minutes and called it a day.

Why did it go so well?

Vego and I have developed a good relationship with each other over the 2 years that I have had him. This is due to a few key factors. First, we have done hours of groundwork. Second, I have never hurt Vego. He trusts me and knows that I will not put him into a bad situation. Third, I just spend time with the horse. I will frequently go out to the field for nothing else but to pet him, give him and apple or just sit on the fence and watch him. When I sit on the fence in the corner of the field he will come up to me and let me pet him. I will pull him closer and have him put his head on my lap and hug his head and pet his face. He will frequently fall asleep when I do this.

So, now we move on to his 2nd and 3rd ride.

Todd Mera

Todd Mera is a Biochemist that has always had a love for horses. Todd started training horses in his 30s. He has worked with and trained many horse starting from birth and older problem horses.

http://www.EverythingEquus.com

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Friday, September 19, 2008

Dog Dental Heath Care For Your American Pit Bull Terrier

Writen by Tim Amherst

One of the most often overlooked areas in care of Pit Bulls involves dental health. It is important not only in caring for his teeth, but in also protecting his overall well being. Being able to chew food properly affects digestion, which can lead to all kinds of health problems for your Pit Bull. Learning how to care for your Pit Bull's dental health needs at home can save you a lot of out of pocket expense over your Pit Bull's lifetime.

Believe it or not, you should try to brush your dog's teeth at least once everyday. Just like you, your Pit Bull will have plaque and tartar that can destroy his teeth or lead to gum disease. It could result in your Pit Bull losing his teeth, or developing an infection.

If you haven't already developed a dental hygiene routine for your Pit Bull, you may need to take it slow and easy to get him used to the idea. Begin by getting him used to you holding him and looking inside his mouth. If you have an older Pit Bull, just holding the dog long enough to look in his mouth may be a challenge at first. Once you get him comfortable with you holding him and looking inside his mouth, start lifting up his lips and moving his tongue around so you can actually see his teeth. These first couple steps may take your Pit Bull some time to get used to, so be patient.

Once he is comfortable with you messing with his mouth, see your veterinarian to get a toothpaste recommended for him. Start by using the toothpaste on your finger for a few days, to get him used to the taste and feeling of you rubbing his teeth. Your Pit Bull will probably enjoy this, especially if he gets flavored toothpaste. He will definitely love the extra attention.

Eventually, your Pit Bull will let you brush his teeth, which will help protect his teeth and health. Dental problems in Pit Bulls can be very painful for them, and can often be hard to treat successfully.

If by some chance you have a Pit Bull that absolutely will not let you near his mouth, let alone brush his teeth, there are some alternative ways to ensure his dental health. Your veterinarian can recommend a good dental rinse that can be added to your Pit Bull's water bowl to help rid the teeth of debris. Chew toys will also help clean the teeth and keep his bones strong and healthy. Be careful when buying chew toys for your Pit Bull to make certain the toy isn't hard enough to damage his teeth, and is large enough so he can't get choked on it.

There are some dog foods now available that are supposed to provide dental care, which actually means that the food sticks to plaque and tartar as the dog chews, therefore getting it off the teeth.

Remember, that to provide proper care for your Pit Bull, you cannot omit his dental health. By taking the time to provide dental care when your Pit Bull is a puppy, you can start ensuring his dental health in the beginning, which will save you a lot of costly vet bills as time goes by.

To learn all about American Pit Bull Terriers and how to train a Pit Bull puppy, visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Pug Puppies

Writen by Steve Valentino

Pugs are an adorable breed of dog that make perfect house pets. Their heavily wrinkled round, flat faces characterize these dogs. Pugs are classified as toy dogs by the American Kennel Club and are the largest breed in the category.

Pugs originated in China in about 700 BC. They were not bred as a guard dog but as a human companion. The breed comes in four colors, namely black, fawn, silver and apricot. All Pugs have their tail curled up tightly over their hip.

It is said that all puppies are adorable, but Pug puppies have a charm of their own. These pups are born in a litter of about 2 to 5 pups. At birth, a Pug puppy is no bigger than a large mouse and hence will need extra care and attention. Pug mothers tend to care well for their litter. When born, Pug puppies are distinctly different from their parents. Their color tends to be different at birth and changes over time. A very common example is that of a fawn Pug, which at birth is completely black. Its tail is straight at birth and curls as the pup grows up.

Although they might seem small and frail, Pug puppies are extremely active. They require a lot of exercise to stay fit and enjoy running around. Owing to their size, they tend to tire easily and sleep for hours on end. In spite of their active nature, Pug puppies are rarely destructive. Owners usually do not have to worry about the safety of household appliances and furniture.

Pugs mature and stabilize as they grow up. As the breed is known to be stubborn, one must start training early to get a positive result. While training a Pug puppy, one should be patient as they get easily bored by repetitive training sessions. Pugs are sensitive dogs and therefore harsh punishment should be avoided during training.

The puppy should be given its time and space to grow and learn the rules of its home. When fully matured, Pugs make a great family pet.

Pugs provides detailed information on Pugs, Pug Puppies, Pug Puppies For Sale, Pug Rescue and more. Pugs is affiliated with Pitbulls Info.

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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Basic Needs For Your Pet Ferret

Writen by Lee Dobbins

A ferret can be a fun pet that will provide you with hours of amusement. If you are thinking about adopting a ferret, you should take the time to learn about their needs. You will need to buy a few things to get you started including a proper cage, adequate ferret foods, vitamins and toys. You should make sure to get your ferret to the vet within the first few weeks and each year after that. Here's some tips on making sure you have the perfect setup for your new pet.

Cage

A cage is not something that the ferret should stay in all the time. The ferret needs to get his exercise and will become quite unfriendly if locked up all the time. The cage itself should not be smaller than two feet by two feet by two feet. This will allow for enough room for the ferret to move about. The ferret can be kept in a cage that is this large for at least eight hours. If you plan to get a smaller cage, insure that the ferret will be able to get out and about during the daytime hours and that the cage is only used at night time.

Food

Ferrets require a specific mix of nutrients and their foods can be expensive. But, the thing to remember is that the ferret will generally eat more food if he is not getting the nutrition that he needs. You may actually save your money if you do not purchase the poor quality stuff and give your ferret the food that he needs instead. You can find out how foods compare in quality by just looking at the ingredients in the more expensive foods and the lesser expensive foods. You should also supplement your ferret's diet with a multi vitamin.

Toys

Ferret toys should be provided for your ferret. If you have one of these adorable and curious little creatures, part of your job of keeping them healthy and happy is to give them lots of things to play with. For those that are looking for something to do with their pet, consider provide toys that are designed for a kitten or even larger, adult cat toys. Really, these can be more affordable to purchase and easier to find than specific ferret toys. They will provide your pet with a great time too. Ferrets also love to dig so you might want to invest in a good harness so you can take your pet outside and let him do some digging, otherwise he might focus his attention on your plants!

Vet Care

In order to keep your pet ferret healthy and happy, you need to make sure he gets his yearly checkup as well as take him to the vet if he appears ill. Prompt attention to illness is important as ferrets can go downhill very quickly.

Pet insurance is geared towards helping you to meet your financial goals when your ferret will get sick. Just like any other type of insurance, it can help when you need it the most. For example, if your ferret develops a tumor, you may need to have it removed. For that, you will need to have surgery on your ferret which is quite expensive. Instead of having to make a decision about whether you should take on the expensive debt or risk your ferret's life, you can use your insurance for the ferret instead. Finding the right pet insurance plan is the key here. To find it, make sure that you look at several companies and what they can offer you.

Lee Dobbins writes for ferrets.pet-breeds.com where you can find out more about how to care for your pet ferret.

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Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Home Remedy For Fleas

Writen by Elizabeth Morgan

Fleas are the most annoying and troublesome insects for both humans and their pets. While we can use various products to rid ourselves of fleas, old-fashioned, preventative home remedies relieve us of ever having to have them in the first place.

Various techniques and products are available in the market to get rid of these fleas, but we don't often get the expected results. Even if we do manage to rid ourselves of the scourge of fleas, this is often not long-lasting or accompanied by side-effects. For example, the use of prednisone and corticosteroid drugs helps to give relief from flea bites, but at the same time, weakens the immune system. Similarly, chemicals containing poisons are often successful in killing fleas, but they are unsafe on pets in the long term. Keeping all these factors in mind, it is best to use home remedies to get rid of these annoying creatures.

To prevent fleas, keep your home clean, indoors and outdoors! All the carpets and floors, and all the corners of the house should be thoroughly vacuumed regularly. The kitchen should be cleaned properly, cleaning up food spills and covering all food stuff. A clean home is an unattractive one to fleas! Water is also a breeding place for fleas, so all the leaky pipes should be promptly repaired. In case you need to use pesticides, the natural, less harmful ones, should be used. Placing herbs like bay leaves, coriander, dill, lemon peel, or clove in pantry shelves, or in stored grain has proved to be effective in keeping fleas away.

Also, giving the pets diets rich in essential fatty acids (EFA) strengthens their immune system and makes them less attractive to fleas. It is important to keep pets and their bedding clean by washing them regularly. Following these simple steps can easily free us from the trouble of fleas.

Fleas provides detailed information about fleas defined, cat fleas, dog fleas, flea bites and more. Fleas is the sister site of Pitbulls Info.

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Monday, September 15, 2008

The Italian Greyhound

Writen by Michael Russell

The Italian Greyhound is a hound of diminutive size that has become the darling of the apartment dwellers in many large cities. Today It is often pictured in the arms of fashion models or carried by movie stars wearing fancy jeweled coats and collars. This is one of the first breeds in history to be exclusively bred as a companion dog. As early as the 16th century there are records of Italian Greyhounds being present in the royal courts of Spain and Italy. Paintings and sculptures glorifying this dog have been done by such well known artists as Botticelli, Giotto and Bosch. The little dogs could be found in the courts of James I of England, Francis I of France, Catherine the Great, Queen Victoria and Frederick the Great of Russia. The high stepping little dog was much admired by the royalty of many countries and through many centuries. An Italian Greyhound named Djali can be found as a companion to the fictional heroine Madame Bovary in the novel by Gustave Flaubert.

The tiny Italian Greyhound for a time became almost too small (10 inches) and began to show signs of dwarfism in the late 1800s. However by the 1950s the breed began to "stabilize" and by 1968 the first Italian Greyhound standard was written and since then the breed has remained firmly true to form and structure as described in the standard.

Experts agree that the Italian Greyhound was bred down from the greyhound and in most respects is a smaller version of the Greyhound. The height is usually 13-15 inches. It has the typical Greyhound look of sleek "racy" lines, with a fine head and beautifully expressive eyes. In temperament it also resembles the Greyhound, for it is a dog that enjoys being with people and being pampered, it is a quiet and gentle dog that generally gets along with other dogs and is mannerly and affectionate.

The IG as it is often called is a small dog that is exceedingly fine boned. Obviously care needs to be taken that it never jumps off of furniture as it could damage itself easily. Also this is a breed that is prone to chills and it needs to wear a coat in winter and should be carried rather than allowed to wade through snow drifts in the wintertime and it should be exercised indoors. A benefit of its size is that it can be paper trained or litter trained much like a cat.. This is a dog that is quite delicate in some respects. Often with small breeds people do tend to carry the dog too much and it is important the the dog be allowed to exercise adequately. Like all canines the dog needs to develop muscle power and needs to be allowed to explore its environment and "be a dog". However like many of the finer sight hound breeds from the Mediterranean, including its larger cousin the Greyhound, the Italian Greyhound is fine skinned and it should not be allowed to run in areas with thorns and brambles, as breeders report that its skin will easily tear when it runs into things.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs

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Sunday, September 14, 2008

Choosing A Suitable Dog One That Fits Your Lifestyle

Writen by Marion Herbertson

Large or small - active or couch potato - longhaired or short - with the myriad of options out there, how in the world do you pick the right dog?

Will a large dog be best - or a small one? Do you have children? Do you have other pets? Choosing a suitable dog raises so many questions, but choosing the perfect family dog is one of life's big bonuses. Dogs make brilliant companions and wonderful family pets - if you get the maths right! Making the wrong decision results in heartbreak for yourself and your family - and yet another unhappy or abandoned dog.

Choosing a suitable dog for your family is a major decision and there are ALL SORTS of things to consider. Will a dog fit your lifestyle? Will you have the patience to cope with a puppy ? Or would re-homing a mature dog be best for your family? If you do decided to go the puppy route - are you prepared for sleepless nights, puddles in unexpected places and chewed up family heirlooms?

However, with a little bit of help, picking the perfect family dog can be a breeze if you do your research and remember the following basic points -

What TYPE of Dog will suite your lifestyle?
Simply put, the type of dog that will fit your lifestyle largely depends on the type of lifestyle you have.

Are you an active, outdoors type of person? You will probably enjoy a medium to large, active dog which needs regular exercise and can join in all your fun. If, however you lead a more sedate lifestyle, a smaller, calmer dog would be suitable and more appreciative of your calm lifestyle.

Space is also an important consideration. Some large dogs need plenty of space whilst small dogs do quite well in flats and apartments.

What BREED of Dog will suite your lifestyle?
Once you've decided what "type" of dog will best suit you, you can now work out the breeds which fit the bill. Dog breeds differ from each other as much as night does from day - this is why research is an absolute must.

Do take time to check out the breed AND the breeder thoroughly. Your dog's temperament is decided primarily by his breed and breeding and only then by human conditioning and training. However, when he is under pressure or provoked, it is almost always your dog's breed and breeding that will win - do bear this important fact in mind.

Other Factors to Consider
When choosing a suitable dog, don't forget to take into account the cost of looking after a dog. Consider, for example, a dog's grooming needs - ie: shorthaired or longhaired? If you go for a longer haired breed, you need to factor in the additional cost of time and/or professional grooming.

In addition to the usual expenses such as food, vet bills, annual vaccinations and insurance you also need to consider the care of your pet while you're on holiday . Believe me, this can be expensive! More dogs than you care to imagine end up in a dog shelter or worse still on doggy death row simply because their owners had not considered these cost implications.

Last by not least, what type are you?
Well ...... choosing a suitable dog has a lot to do with your own personality. After all, it's no point picking a dog which is the life and soul of the party if you're the retiring type, is there? Nor is it much fun choosing a dog which matures early and becomes all "dignified" - when what you thrive on is regular rough-and-tumble sessions! Yet another reason to do your research thoroughly.

So, do your research at this stage - there is a lot to be considered when choosing a suitable dog. Read as much as you can - and take your time. You'll soon find a dog which settles into your lifestyle so comfortably, you wont remember a day when he wasn't there - and even if you do, you'll wonder how in the world you managed without him!

With years of experience in breeding, training and handling dogs, Marion Herbertson says she is first and foremost a dog lover. For advice with a personal touch, visit http://www.advice-on-pet-care-and-pet-product-supplies-online.com/, where you will find more of Marion's practical, sometimes humourous articles on pet care.

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Saturday, September 13, 2008

Heartworms The Quiet Dog Killer

Writen by Jason Montag

Heartworms is a common dog disease in the United States and beyond. Heartworms are caused by an organism called a roundworm. Heartworms were discovered in the late 1800's by a parasitologist. These parasitic heartworms live predominantly in the chambers of the heart as well as the lungs and when they are adults and can measure up to 16 inches in length. The major harm that these heartworms cause is stopping the heart chamber valves from completely closing. In severe cases the heartworms can make it into the lungs by moving along the pulmonary artery and into the blood vessels of the lungs. This can cause major symptoms which are loss of body weight, disturbances of vision,dropsy, chronic cough, shortness of breath, chronic heart failure, muscular weakness and eventual death.

All types of dogs can be affected by heartworms but though it has occurred the heartworms are not really a threat to humans. If one dog in the area is infected the major concern is to keep the neighborhood dogs safe.

Heartworms can be cured if caught soon enough. Chemical therapy and even surgery are the techniques used to kill off or remove heartworms from an infected dog.

The best bet to keep your dog safe from heartworm is to get their blood checked for heartworm regularly and put them on a prescription heartworm medication from your veterinarian.

Stay informed and your dog will lead a happy and healthy long life.

For more information about heartworms or to communicate with fellow dog lovers in our pet forum, visit http://www.spectacularpets.com.

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Friday, September 12, 2008

Mourning The Loss Of A Pet There Is Help

Writen by Jamie Thompson

Pets are an integral part of many families. They love us, comfort us, and they have their own unique personalities. And the loss of a dog or cat can be a very painful experience. But how do you cope mourning the loss of a pet?

The loss of a pet is very similar to the loss of a human relative or companion. However, many people (usually those who have never had a cat or dog as a companion) simply can't imagine that the pain and depression you feel is real, or that it should be real. But be assured, the pain you feel for the loss of your dog is as real and as valid as the pain you feel for the loss of Uncle Roscoe. And you should recognize that you are going to experience much of what a person would feel at the loss of a human companion when mourning the loss of a pet.

These feelings will usually progress through guilt, denial, anger, and depression.

Guilt will usually be expressed in an "if only I had been more careful" attitude. Since the dog or cat can't watch out for itself, it must have been my fault. Thus we blame ourselves or try to second guess ourselves in the actions we took – or didn't take.

Denial, as with the loss of a human companion, is a strong desire for the loss not to have occurred. This feeling can even keep you from adopting a new companion from the guilt of being disloyal to the lost one. However, adopting a new companion will probably do the most to help you complete the grieving process.

Anger will be directed at the veterinarian who failed to save your companion, the driver of the car that hit and killed your cat, or the other animals who may have played a part in your companion's death. While this is certainly normal, it doesn't change anything and should be worked through with the goal of getting through your grief but should be recognized as a natural part of mourning the loss of a pet.

The final stage is depression. The worst aspect of depression is that the very condition leaves you powerless to work through your feelings – you're too depressed to do anything or want to do anything. It's here that support and understanding from those around you can be most effective.

Above all, get back in the game. As we said at the beginning of the article, pets are a tremendous source of comfort for us and a new companion can help us cope with the irreversible loss of the previous companion. I hope by recognizing these natural morning emotions that you can with understand and gain comfort when mourning the loss of a pet.

"Grief is like a raging river. In order to get to the other side, you must swim through it. And if you avoid swimming through, you'll never get to other side." If you do not take action you will be left wallowing your greif. Take action and deal with what you are feeling. I highly recommend you check out Mourning The Loss Of A Pet.

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Thursday, September 11, 2008

Pet Odor Problems An Effective And Attractive Solution

Writen by Jemetha Clark

Battling with pet odors is a common problem for pet owners. Whether it is the lingering smell of a litter box or a canine in need of a bath, our pets definitely add to the complex menagerie of household odors. Getting rid of pet odors is an ongoing challenge but before you move Fluffy or Fido outside here is another solution to the problem: a catalytic fragrance lamp.

Catalytic fragrance lamps are decorative home accents that are effective at getting rid of various odors, including pet odor. The term fragrance lamp is actually a bit misleading. The catalytic technology behind the lamps was developed as a means of purifying the air in hospitals and mortuaries. The fragrance component is a relatively recent addition. Today's catalytic lamps can be used with or without fragrance but still provide the same air-purifying result.

How They Work

Catalytic lamps work differently than a regular oil lamp. They use a special wick with a ceramic stone burner attached to the top and do not require a constant burning flame to operate. After heating the burner for a few minutes the flame is extinguished and the burner continues to feed off of the alcohol based fuel through the wick. The heat generated from the ceramic stone causes the perfume to be released into the air. The catalytic combustion of the alcohol creates ozone which interacts with impurities to reduce bacteria and odors. Research has shown that burning a lamp for about 45 minutes can reduce micro-organisms by 69% or more. Bacterial reducing benefits continue for several hours thereafter.

Stylish and Convenient

Catalytic fragrance lamps come in a wide variety of styles, from traditional to contemporary, suitable for any type of home décor. Styles include hand blown glass, ceramic, crystal, and metal fragrance lamps. Perfumed lamp fuel is available in various aroma blends – floral, spicy, woody, forest-like, and herbal – but the lamp can also be used with an odor-free neutralizer that simply gets rid of odors and bacteria. And, the whole process is quiet and unobtrusive, no humming noises or strong smelling cleaners. Simply start the lamp and no one will ever know that the attractive crystal object on your table is the solution to your pet odor problems.

Jemetha Clark

http://www.thefifthsense.com

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Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Custom Cats How Genetic Engineering Is Changing The World Of Pets

Writen by Grant Carroll

When people hear the phrase "genetically modified organism" (GMO), They picture fruits, veggies or grain that's been altered in some way to be cheaper or produced more abundantly. Plant GMOs are usually made with the purpose of solving hunger problems around the world by producing enough food to feed humanity's exploding population. However, now the term GMO can be applied to something many of us hold dear in our lives…our pets. The company Allerca Pet Lifestyles from California announced last month that they will be selling kittens next year that have been genetically modified to be hypoallergenic. Humans have altered animal genomes for thousands of years through artificial selection (breeding), and even though this new form of genetic tinkering needs to be thoroughly tested before it's put up for sale, demand is bringing it rushing into the market.

It is hard for one to argue completely against humans altering other animals' genomes, especially since we've already been doing it for much of our history. Diverse breeds of dogs and cats have arisen over the millennia through human efforts of artificial selection. Natural selection created the wild wolves and dogs from which our domesticated friends descended. One could argue that since we've already changed animal DNA to fit our desires and needs, there is nothing unethical about genetically modifying today's pets. It just accomplishes in one generation what usually takes several generations of breeding. It also creates phenotypes that we might never see arise naturally.

One thing that many people agree on is the need for extensive testing before this technology goes to market. The PETA has argued that there is no way of knowing the long-term effects of genetic engineering on a cat's genome, and they're right. To date, no such study has been done proving that genetic engineering is completely safe for any animal. In this particular case, scientists have silenced a gene is cats that produces their most common allergen. The gene still exists, but it's not able to produce it's protein. What needs to be done is extensive research over many years to study not only the genetically modified individuals but also their offspring.

In spite of this, there seems to be nothing that can slow the tide of selling GMO pets. Proposed bills that would ban their sale failed in California last year. Though many people protest, GMO pets are coming to market. Hopefully there won't be too much damage done.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters

Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

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Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Lets Talk About Vaccines Everyone Else Is

Writen by Connie Limon

There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.

There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.

A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:

Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2)
Canine distemper virus (CDV)
Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2)
Rabies virus (RV)

If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.

Other vaccine tips you need to remember:

Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.

Don't use low-cost clinics for your dog's vaccinations (unless the clinic is operated by a professional you know and trust). Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog's health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.

Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.

Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.

Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Coupons for shih tzu puppies and other products are offered to subscribers. Updates of available puppies. Sign up at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

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Monday, September 8, 2008

Dog First Aid Kit Ingredients

Writen by Debbie Ray

Dog First Aid Kits are easy enough to create. First you need some kind of container to hold all the medicines, drugs and supplies in such as a tackle box, old lunch box or some other shoe box sized plastic container. It should be water-proof, strong enough to withstand mild pressure and have a clasp of some sort - but not locking.

Label it on all sides with a felt tip marker so that it is easy to read. Something such as "Dog First Aid Kit" or whatever just so you can easily know the difference between your human first aid kit (if you made it yourself as well) and this one for your dog(s) and puppy (s).

Under the lid of your dog first aid kit would be a great place to tape an index card which contains the numbers of your local veterinarian, poison control, and other canine emergency numbers for your dogs (emergency vet, etc).

It would also be a good place to list a description of your dog(s) including color, weight, name, health issues, distinguishing characteristics and a recent photo labeled with the name of each pet. Your dog will thank you in the case of some sort of disaster or emergency when you are not at home for some reason.

Below is a list of several items you should obtain to place within your dog first aid kit and brief explanations as to what each item is for. Remember, your dogs health may depend on it.

Dog First Aid Kit Ingredients

Activated charcoal: for poisonings (1 gram per pound, mixed with water),

Antihistamine tablets: for insect stings and allergic reactions,

Betadine or Nolvasan: cleaning open wounds,

Blankets: several if possible, to help prevent against shock in the event of an accident or injury as well as a good way to transport an injured dog,

Blunt nosed scissors: to cut tape and clip. Keep these scissors with the kit.

Canine rectal thermometer: to take the dog or puppies temperature,

Cortisone ointment: Used as a topical anti-inflammatory,

Cotton balls and swabs: Used mainly to clean wounds,

Eyedropper or dosage syringe: to apply medications to your GSD,

Eyewash: to irrigate the eyes of your GSD,

First-aid cream: to sooth and protect wounds,

Gauze bandage: for wrapping wounds,

Gloves: both thin plastic to avoid contamination and thicker ones if you have a fear of being bitten,

Hand towels: to dry hands, for clean up, etc.,

Hydrogen peroxide (3%): has various uses, one of which is to induce vomiting,

Ipecac: used to induce vomiting (1 teaspoon per 20 pounds),

Kaolin and pectin: to help diarrhea (1 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Magnifying glass: to help locate any tiny objects

Muzzle: even the best German Shepherd may bite when in extreme pain. If you don't have one you can also make one from strips of soft long fabric, tube socks, etc.,

Nail clippers: best case scenario, have both human and canine nail clippers,

Non-stick adhesive tape: to help tape bandages in place,

Non-stinging antiseptic spray: to help clean wounds,

Pepto-Bismol , Maalox or Kaopectate: to help relieve minor stomach upsets,

Petroleum jelly: for use with the rectal thermometer, also an aid in constipation (1/2 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Saline solution: can be used for many things such as irrigating wounds,

Stretch bandages: for wound dressing,

Styptic pencil: to stop minor bleeding,

Tweezers or hemostat: use to pull our splinters or other small foreign objects,

Vegetable oil: for mild constipation (1 teaspoon per 5 pounds, mix it in with food)

Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.pedigreedpups.com, is a lifelong animal lover and dog enthusiast. Interested in more dog information? Training and health tips? Thinking about getting a purebred dog? Check out http://www.pedigreedpups.com or http://www.total-german-shepherd.com for more information.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

How To Keep Your Boxer Or Any Dog Healthy

Writen by Daniel Lesser

Feed him a balanced diet.

Additional tips from owners include:

- Give an occasional yogurt treat

- Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.

- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.

- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.

- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.

- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.

- Make a breeder your friend.

- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer\'s life.

- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

- Your Boxer has fleas if you find black specks in the fur or fleabite marks on the skin. A tip given by an owner is to give your Boxer garlic daily to prevent fleas.

- Boxers catch fleas from other animals. It is an every day problem that, at some time or another, you can expect to encounter in your Boxer.

- The fleas only go to the Boxer to feed on its blood.

- Fleas mostly live and multiply in your home. The comfortable living - central heating, double-glazing and, best of all, the fitted carpet - we create for ourselves and our Boxers also work best for the fleas.

- De-worm your puppy every month and your adult Boxer, every six months.

Daniel Lesser
Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com/keeping-your-dog-healthy.php

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Bullfrog Information

Writen by Michael Russell

The bullfrog is the largest frog in North America. The bullfrog population is not as abundant as it used to be because people kill these frogs to eat their legs! This is a fascinating creature that needs to be protected.

The bullfrog is most common in the Southern part of the United States. They are known for their large size, throaty call and their extraordinary leaping ability. Bullfrogs can grow to be six inches in length, but when they stretch out their legs this adds another seven to ten inches in length. They can also jump up to six feet away!

The frog's calls are heard throughout the summer when they are mating. The male makes a call to get females and then the females respond with another call. Sometimes you may see two males fighting because they are very territorial. The frogs are not seen in the winter because they are hibernating.

If you want to keep these frogs, it is best if they have a shallow pool that they can get in and out of very easily. Try not to use tap water in the pool because it has chlorine in it, which could hurt them. Tadpoles are especially sensitive to this. To get rid of the chlorine in your water, either filter it or let it sit out for two weeks. Frogs like the water to be around eighty degrees. Only fill the pool so that the depth covers the frogs half way. You should also put pebbles or stones on the bottom.

If you keep Bullfrogs in captivity, you can feed them all kinds of insects, baby mice and feeder fish. Be careful if you are going to keep more than one frog together, because they will usually eat anything that is smaller than them, including other frogs.

When the female bullfrog lays eggs, she can lay up to 20,000 eggs at once. These eggs will then become tadpoles. The tadpole stage lasts between six months and two years, depending on the weather. When the eggs first hatch, the babies cannot swim so they just cling to plants. Very soon they begin to develop hind legs. Once these legs are fully-grown, they use them to swim and push through the water. The tadpole continues to develop into a frog by having skin grow over the gills, having lungs develop, having front legs grow and having the tail disappear.

If you want to take care of tadpoles, you should keep them in an aquarium. The water in the tank should be filtered. Don't put any fish in the aquarium with the tadpoles because they might hurt them. It is best if you only put between two and four tadpoles in a tank together. They will swim together and are very active if kept in small groups. Tadpoles can be fed pellets, flake food, water plants and algae. When they get bigger you can also feed them bloodworms.

It is so amazing the way a frog changes from an underwater creature to a land creature. They are very fascinating and fun to see in the wild. Fortunately, laws have been passed to regulate how many frogs can be caught and eaten. Hopefully this will help build their population back up.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

Friday, September 5, 2008

Humans Are Unique Project

Writen by Lance Winslow

The age old question of what makes humans unique has been taken up by a new team of researchers in the "Why Are Humans Unique Project" and its principle investigator and researcher has announced the possible formation of a massive experimentation project.

In an online think tank the head researcher of this experiment states to the group in the formalization of the criteria for the project: "Now comes the hard part, establishing the threshold and boundaries which will determine the classification for this group."

Indeed a clear and concise focus will be necessary for humankind to finally answer the question once and for all; What makes mankind unique? One of the think tank members added insult to injury in this thought process when he stated:

"Not to be a pragmatists, but wouldn't it be better to have a gray area boundary? I mean that would be more real to the observations of life right? I mean you set your boundaries and then extend them in gray scale for data which maybe just outside the margins, but eventful enough to list, hate to put that information into the "electronic trash can" because it is always those little things that are not expected outside the boundaries which are the biggest clues and sometimes one of those little things can be the biggest finding of all, even more important that all the data discovered within."

Indeed it appears that there are numerous examples of such in research, science and solutions to such. And it also appears actually that they are both correct, so this issue will have to be addressed but a clearly defined focus must be insured otherwise we cannot trust the results to the answers we all seek. Consider this in 2006.

Lance Winslow

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Dog Containment Systems

Writen by Eric Morris

Practically everyone has one pet or the other; a dog, cat, rabbit or even parrots. Rearing a dog not only includes feeding it regularly, but also on giving it correct training in various matters, including containment in restricted areas through the use of a dog containment system.

There are different forms of dog containment systems; the indoor containment system, the wire containment system and the wireless containment system. The indoor containment systems, as the name suggests, are for containing the dog while indoors. One can use pet gates which are available in different sizes, designed for use at the top or bottom of stairs, doorways and other openings. Some are hardware-mounted and others are pressure-mounted. Using dog doors provides freedom to both you and the dog, as you can install it in such a way that the dog can let himself in and out on his own. Those having sliding patio doors can go for patio door panels that work like standard sliding doors. There is even the self-locking automatic dog door system for your convenience and security.

If you have to confine your dog to a small area the outdoor dog kennel is the best option, as it is completely closed in with a sunscreen top for the dog's protection from the sun. You can also use an indoor or outdoor dog exercise pen for your dog to get a place to do some exercise. The wire dog containment system is an invisible, wired electronic fence in the yard, which keeps the dog from going out of the stipulated boundaries of the wire dog containment system. The wireless dog containment systems use transmitters to keep the dog contained in stipulated areas, and also sometimes prohibit the dog from going to certain areas of the house and garden. And if your dog lives outdoors most of the time, you could always use dog houses to contain the dog. A well-designed dog house provides the dog a safe and secure place of her own, the year round.

Dog Containment Systems provides detailed information on Dog Containment Systems, Wireless Dog Containment Systems, Wire Dog Containment Systems, Indoor Pet Containment Systems and more. Dog Containment Systems is affiliated with Invisible Dog Fences.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling On The Leash While Walking

Writen by Michael Colucci

Dogs which pull on their leash while walking with you is a common problem seen among many different breeds. This problem can be seen in puppies as well as adult dogs. Dogs which pull on their leash while you walk this is more than just aggravating. If the leash breaks, the dog could run and put itself or others in danger. You should want to walk your dog, not have it walking you.

There are a number of different reasons why your dog will pull on the leash. Some dogs are so happy to go for a walk that they are out of control, and are anxious to move about. Other dogs see themselves as being the leader, and will move forward with force because they feel that they are moving ahead of the pack. If your dog is very happy about going out, it may help to give them some time to calm down. You can stand still with the dog for a few minutes until they become more relaxed.

If the dog feels that it is the leader, this is a sign that you should begin training him. The owner has to show the dog that they are the leader. When you don't have this understanding with your dog, it will be impossible to train them properly. If your dog shows signs of control, it is best to go back to simple obedience training. If you don't have the time to train the dog yourself, it may be best to send them to a dog training school.

The instructor can train you as well as your dog, and they can show you how to keep the dog from trying to be the leader. Skilled instructors should always work with both you and your dog. The first step in getting the dog not to pull on the leash is to get it to accept the collar. If the dog is moving around a lot while you are trying to put on the collar, this is a sign that your dog will pull against the leash. Start by commanding your dog to sit or stay while you put on the collar. If the dog gets up after you've put on the collar, make him sit back down quickly.

You should only walk the dog after it sits down calmly and allows you to put on the collar and leash. Once the collar is on, don't allow the dog to jump up and rush ahead towards the door. Gently pull back on the leash. Make him sit back down again, and repeat the process until he gets the message.

Michael Colucci is a technical writer for Free Dog Training, Dog Care and Pet Zine

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Advanced Dog Training Goals It Pays To Think And Plan Ahead

Writen by Shelby Wright

Once your young dog has learned the basics of how to behave in a socially acceptable manner, its time to move on to more advanced training. Just what you will teach your dog, and how far you will take it's training, depends on several considerations. First of all, what do you expect? Have you a special role in mind for the dog? Or do you just want it to learn some more advanced obedience skills? Much depends on your goals in owning your dog, and what if anything you expect it will contribute to your work or your hobbies: a guide dog, rescue dog, herding dog, gun dog, guard dog, whatever. If you have specific plans, your training objectives and program will follow logically. The breed of your dog may determine what you can teach it, and how high you should set your expectations. Some dog breeds have been developed for show ring appearance at the expense of performance. Others have been bred to perform certain tasks better than others. The genetic material you are working with will largely determine what you can accomplish with your dog. It is far easier to train it to perform in ways that come naturally than to try and impose behaviors that seem strange and unnatural to the dog. It is a simple fact of life that a border collie will naturally want to herd stock, while a retriever will want to recover ducks you shoot. A setter or pointer will want to quarter the ground in front of you to search out game birds, while a greyhound will want to chase rabbits and hares at speed.

A dobermann pinscher will be especially alert to strangers, while a terrier is more likely to become extremely interested in digging up a rabbit hole. A dog bred for the show ring may seem to wonder what these other dogs are on about, and reveal no such specialized interests. The majority of rough coated collies of "Lassie" fame, for example, long ago lost most of the genes that once made them successful working dogs on sheep farms, as they were increasingly bred instead more for their appearance in the show ring than their herding performance. It is true that any dog can be trained to do almost whatever you want, but some things come more naturally to some breeds than to others. If you set your expectations consistent with your breed, and train to reinforce what comes naturally to that breed, you are likely to be far more satisfied with both the training process and the outcome. Beyond the basics of obedience common to all breeds, it is a lot easier if you go with the flow and you encourage your dog to build on the natural advanced skills it has inherited from generations of breeding selection. If your dog is simply to be a companion, you may decide to be content to limit your advanced training to a few useful or entertaining "tricks". Most dogs enjoy basic retrieval tasks, for example, and exhibit far more patience and energy for the repetitive chasing of balls and sticks than you have. Channeling that energy into collecting the morning paper from the front yard has much to commend it as a training objective, to make one possible suggestion, though this particular task may be a challenging concept for some breeds to get their heads around.

Whatever you choose to focus on will work much better if it becomes a routine part of your dog's daily life. You could consider advanced competitive obedience or agility training, which is a recreational and social activity pursued by many dog owners. There are clubs in most cities. This activity challenges all dogs, but you will find some breeds have a natural advantage over others in these sports. If you take up the sport to win, you should choose your breed accordingly. Showing your dog is another popular competitive club activity, especially with breeders, and requires your dog to learn presentation skills. Just being an acceptable companion requires certain skills and familiarity with routines to be developed by your dog. Simply not running off when you take him along for a jog around the park, sitting quietly in the back of the car when you are driving, refraining from jumping all over visitors, sitting on the mat in front of the fire and not on your favorite chair, chewing a bone not your slippers, and other such learned behaviors, are themselves useful advanced social skills that can be taught. The value to you of acceptable, predictable and reliable behavior by your dog should not be underestimated as a training goal. It can develop into quite a sophisticated and challenging pattern of behavior to learn. The benefits are great if your dog is to maintain good relationships with all members of your family as they go about their daily lives.

Shelby Wright grew up working with sheep herding dogs on a farm, and later bred and showed gun dogs. For more helpful information see Shelby's reviews of dog training guides and dog care. Shelby also contributes private label rights articles to PLRWrittenArticles and writes an information products review blog.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Is A Ferret The Right Pet For Me

Writen by Matthew Humphries

1. Are ferrets legal where I live? Believe it or not, there are a number of places within the U.S. that it is illegal to own a ferret. Better yet, places where it is legal to sell them, but illegal to own them. After you've gotten past this last perplexity, be sure to research the legality for you to own ferrets. Be thorough, as an example, New York state allows ferrets to be kept as pets, New York City on the other hand doesn't!

2. Will my ferret be allowed out of the cage for exercise? Ferrets require a minimum (too low in our opinion) of one hour outside the cage time daily. Ferrets do tend to sleep, and for long periods of time (up to 18 hours daily at times), however they do require as much exercise and attention as possible while you are home to supervise them. Be sure you can dedicate time each day to play with and watch your ferret outside the cage. It will provide your ferret with the exercise and attention they need, also helping to avoid behavioral problems that could arise with a lack of stimulation.

3. Can I afford the expense of owning a ferret? Being a ferret parent, you need to look at the dollars and cents one way. Any pet is an investment, with a brunt of the expenses occurring during your initial start-up period. Throughout the year you should save so when it's time for a check-up you have around $100 to pay for the veterinarian bills, boosters and all! Also, food, treat's, toy's, and cage accessories such as hammocks or bowls will need to be taken account of as well. The latter is dependent mainly on the food you choose, as the other products are extremely affordable as well as durable.

4. Is my apartment ferret-proof? Ferrets are crafty, inquisitive, sometimes to a fault. Areas which you feel are not an issue for most pets, can become hazards for ferrets. Ferrets love to climb and explore. You need to be sure any open holes are sealed, as well as counter-tops clear of any possible dangers. It's rare, but some ferrets have been known to chew on wires as well. Keeping these and many other dangers away from your ferret can be solved by using some common sense and knowing about a ferrets ability to climb, crawl, or jump into trouble. This is why we generally feel a Ferret Room in your home is best. This way, you are only ferret proofing one room. As your knowledge of ferrets grow, you could attempt to do the same for other rooms. Remember, it's best to supervise your ferret at all times while they are out of their cage.

5. Will a ferret get along with my other pets or my children? Children should always be supervised with your ferret to make sure that it gets handled properly. As for pets, it really depends. Some dogs and cats live well with their ferret friends, while others display aggressive or other unwanted behavior when your ferret is around. It is important to note however that other small pets or birds should really be avoided if you'd like or already own ferrets. Small pets like mice or birds may be considered prey due to your ferret's carnivorous nature, which unfortunately can lead to deadly results. Use your judgment when determining if adding pets or a ferret is right for your household.

Matthew Humphries - http://www.ferret.com